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I got a 97 Ford F250 HD. It squeaks going around sharp corners if I touch the gas. What's wrong? The differential?
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Jul 14, 2021 04:21
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4000 Dollar Suit posted:Been going back and forth with a dealer for a little over a week on an 06 accord i4 mt coupe for 6500, during the time they were doing their "99 point inspection" and fixing a few thing, namely replacing the rear-view mirror, removing some ruined tint and replacing the o2 sensor and cv axles, they reduced the price from 6500 to 5900 on their website, when it comes time to close on the deal, I say "so 5900 cash out the door?" and the guy tells me it's gonna be 2900 dollars more for a total of 8300, they say it is because of "tax and tags" I offer 6500 since that was the original asking price but they wont even budge, ended up just walking away. my question, is this normal? everyone I talked to said that just sounded scummy, it was a pretty big VW dealership they have over 1000 cars on their lot so it wasn't some shady indie dealer. I've only ever had experience buying cars from private sellers. 2900 is a criminal doc fee. Depending on your state, sales tax should only be about 300 bucks for a 5900 car. docs, tax, and tags for that deal should only be about 500.
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Jul 14, 2021 04:38
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Head Bee Guy posted:2900 is a criminal doc fee. Depending on your state, sales tax should only be about 300 bucks for a 5900 car. docs, tax, and tags for that deal should only be about 500. Definitely state specific. Texas is 6.5% sales tax and usual doc fee is about 180. So a bit under 600 for tax and doc. Throw in another 200 for other fees and your around 800 or so.
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Jul 14, 2021 04:59
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surf rock posted:This feels like an intensely dumb follow-up question, but: how do you really wash off a car during winter time? I can't run the hose outside, and if I tried to run it inside somehow I would end up creating an insanely dangerous ice patch in my garage. I could go through a car wash, but wouldn't I just be reintroducing the problem between the car wash and home? Or is the idea just that I'd have less road salt and therefore slower rust accumulation as a result of going through the car wash? The issue is that people let their car get encrusted with salt and then it stays like that all season long until spring. Idk about the Midwest, but generally the roads in MA arent 100% salted 100% of the time. There are days it rains, the snow melts, its relatively warm, its relatively dry, etc. There might be a night or two of heavy salt application and then after about a week most of that salts been washed away, but a lot of the cars will still have their lower thirds caked. Or it will rain/melt/wash off over the course of driving and the car will look clean at first glance, but the vulnerable undercarriage will remain salty. So if you can get your underbody sprayed down once a week/every two weeks, even at like a coin-op booth car wash for 2 minutes, it greatly cuts down on the amount of time and volume of salt exposure. The trick is to do it regularly enough that the car doesnt spend more than like a few weeks with salt crust. Obviously dont spray it the night before a snowfall or when theres salt visibly on the road, but usually theres at least a few days of dry weather in between applications. Leaving the car outside isnt so much the problem as getting it salty is. My E36 lives outside but since it doesnt get moved in winter it doesnt really get rustier. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Jul 14, 2021 |
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Jul 14, 2021 05:14
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I heard inside is worse because it melts the snow and leaves ice water on the vehicle while outside the snow will stay frozen and leave a protective layer. Not saying I think that, but it's the reasoning I read about.
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Jul 14, 2021 05:45
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Uthor posted:I heard inside is worse because it melts the snow and leaves ice water on the vehicle while outside the snow will stay frozen and leave a protective layer. Itll wash/blow/dew off outside a lot more easily
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Jul 14, 2021 05:47
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kid sinister posted:I got a 97 Ford F250 HD. It squeaks going around sharp corners if I touch the gas. What's wrong? The differential? My first thought is suspension bushings.
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Jul 14, 2021 06:10
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kid sinister posted:I got a 97 Ford F250 HD. It squeaks going around sharp corners if I touch the gas. What's wrong? The differential? Do those still have drum brakes in the back? No matter what I'd still be looking at brakes first.
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Jul 14, 2021 06:22
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Head Bee Guy posted:2900 is a criminal doc fee. Depending on your state, sales tax should only be about 300 bucks for a 5900 car. docs, tax, and tags for that deal should only be about 500. skipdogg posted:Definitely state specific. Texas is 6.5% sales tax and usual doc fee is about 180. So a bit under 600 for tax and doc. Throw in another 200 for other fees and your around 800 or so. I live in VA state tax is 5.3% I did the math parts and labor for a couple of CV axles, an o2 sensor, a mirror, and some tint removal would probably run in the ball park of about 800. my theory, when I ran my scan tool I came up with a p0420, and a 67-1, I insisted it was the cat, they told me it was just an o2 sensor. I also just remembered it had a 61-1 in the ABS code, I'm thinking it was in fact the cat and some critical ABS fault and they're trying to sneak the price up hoping I'd pay for it. though to be fair no mention of a price increase was ever mentioned, they implied heavily that it was all apart of the "southern family benefits program" that comes with all vehicles you buy from them or some boohockey. runaway dog fucked around with this message at 06:48 on Jul 14, 2021 |
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Jul 14, 2021 06:43
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kid sinister posted:I got a 97 Ford F250 HD. It squeaks going around sharp corners if I touch the gas. What's wrong? The differential? I'm pretty sure bad differentials don't squeak. They can make grinding, crunchy noises when they fail, but not squeaking.
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Jul 14, 2021 19:34
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I have a 2013 Mazda 3 hatchback. For about the last ~2 ish years I've had an issue with it where once I get to about 50 or 55 mph my vehicle shakes noticeably, until I hit about 70 mph then everything is fine. For awhile I thought it was just a rough stretch of highway (I was driving through an area with a lot of highway construction so I didn't think anything of it.) A few months before the pandemic started I had a really weird sound so I took it into a tire shop where I got my tires, they found that problem but said that my rear shocks needed to be replaced. Thinking that was the source of the rattle I went ahead and had that done. I also think I should note that at the time I took my car in I had asked for them to rotate the tires and they said that due to uneven wear on the tires they didn't recommend that. When I got the shocks replaced nothing changed (and I was pretty loving upset about that). Now I'm ready to get my tires replaced and I'm sort of hoping that a new set of tires that are balanced properly might solve this issue. Before I go spending the money on new tires (which I'm going to do anyways because I need them) is there any other part of the car I should have checked out? My Mazda has never been the most gentle car on the road but it's getting to the point where my wife actively hates riding in the car with me.
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Jul 14, 2021 20:44
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SalTheBard posted:I have a 2013 Mazda 3 hatchback. For about the last ~2 ish years I've had an issue with it where once I get to about 50 or 55 mph my vehicle shakes noticeably, until I hit about 70 mph then everything is fine. For awhile I thought it was just a rough stretch of highway (I was driving through an area with a lot of highway construction so I didn't think anything of it.) A few months before the pandemic started I had a really weird sound so I took it into a tire shop where I got my tires, they found that problem but said that my rear shocks needed to be replaced. Thinking that was the source of the rattle I went ahead and had that done. I also think I should note that at the time I took my car in I had asked for them to rotate the tires and they said that due to uneven wear on the tires they didn't recommend that. Honestly you probably just needed tires the whole time. Do you know how old the tires are? You will probably find that when you get a new complete set of tires all the roughness disappears.
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Jul 14, 2021 20:57
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KakerMix posted:Honestly you probably just needed tires the whole time. Do you know how old the tires are? Seconding tires. I think you'll be surprised.
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Jul 14, 2021 21:04
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SalTheBard posted:My Mazda has never been the most gentle car on the road but it's getting to the point where my wife actively hates riding in the car with me. Are you sure that's the only factor? 
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Jul 14, 2021 21:06
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I'd bet she loves driving that car by herself, too
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Jul 14, 2021 21:34
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Motronic posted:Do those still have drum brakes in the back? No matter what I'd still be looking at brakes first. Yep, they do. I changed those as soon as I bought it. Mr. Wiggles posted:My first thought is suspension bushings. That's... a good point. It really squeaks like hell if I take a curb cut diagonally, one wheel at a time. Time to lube it up!
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Jul 14, 2021 21:34
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Is the Ecoboost 4-cylinder found in the Focus ST in the MZR family?
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Jul 14, 2021 21:37
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KakerMix posted:Honestly you probably just needed tires the whole time. Do you know how old the tires are? I think I got them around 6 years ago.
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Jul 14, 2021 21:39
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Outrail posted:Are you sure that's the only factor? Haha I'm a better driver than she is :-P
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Jul 14, 2021 21:39
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DildenAnders posted:Is the Ecoboost 4-cylinder found in the Focus ST in the MZR family? It's based on the L series. The block might still be the same. Little else, probably.
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Jul 14, 2021 21:47
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I'd like to get a CD player in my truck. I have to keep my console because of the navigation. Can not tolerate using my phone for streaming music anymore. What options exist? I have usb ports in the truck that I use to charge my phone, could one of those power a cd player?
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Jul 14, 2021 22:01
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Sometimes they support USB CD drives but you'd have to try that it's usually not documented.
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Jul 14, 2021 22:02
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Cheese Thief posted:I'd like to get a CD player in my truck. I have to keep my console because of the navigation. Can not tolerate using my phone for streaming music anymore. What options exist? I have usb ports in the truck that I use to charge my phone, could one of those power a cd player? The USB port will probably provide enough power, but it may not transfer data. You may need to use BlueTooth to connect.
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Jul 14, 2021 22:06
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Cheese Thief posted:I'd like to get a CD player in my truck. I have to keep my console because of the navigation. Can not tolerate using my phone for streaming music anymore. What options exist? I have usb ports in the truck that I use to charge my phone, could one of those power a cd player? Do you have a headphone jack to use for audio? That plus a cigarette lighter power adapter should do you. Or buy a lot of batteries. Or put music on a USB drive that might play.
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Jul 14, 2021 22:11
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Do you have an AUX port? A discman seems like the simplest solution. Also, honestly, have you considered replacing the whole thing with a CarPlay / AndroidAuto headunit? I think it may save you a lot of needless complexity.
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Jul 14, 2021 22:13
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Krakkles posted:Do you have an AUX port? A discman seems like the simplest solution.  That's my dash. Yes I have an Aux port. I don't like using my phone for music because it could just autoplay when starting the engine, or just some nonsense. I want to be as distraction free as possible. Maybe an ipod or something but cds would be more fun.
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Jul 14, 2021 22:30
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Quoting the ultimate winning idea for my oil filler issue:AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Second option: a piece of hydraulic hose of sufficient diameter StormDrain posted:I would pick up some hydraulic hose for that. If you have any heavy equipment shop nearby they can sort you out. two feet of 1.25" ID fuel line was $18 at the hydraulics place here and solves this problem forever, thanks dudes 
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Jul 14, 2021 23:45
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Cheese Thief posted:
Otherwise, Discman -> AUX sounds like it's probably right for you, then.
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Jul 15, 2021 00:17
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Krakkles posted:Makes sense - the autoplay issue bugged me too. The only other suggestion I'll make is that you can create an automation that will run upon carplay connection - I have mine set to open apple music (but not play a song), wait, switch to Waze. I haven't had the autoplay issue since doing that, and had the same results when I originally used it with Spotify. Yea I think the portable disc players on the market now can charge by usb then output through aux. Good idea. In addition, I bet the sound quality would be better buying a cheap official cd for a few bucks compared to some 128kbit youtube stream. Sweet, sounds like a plan
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Jul 15, 2021 00:42
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Javid posted:Quoting the ultimate winning idea for my oil filler issue: Nice! Did you get a cap for it?
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Jul 15, 2021 01:47
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I didn't ask because it didn't occur to me that they might have one for my weird off-label application. I put an eye bolt in the piece of PVC which I will just hose clamp into the open end like it is currently while I figure out a permanent solution / see if the prototype I'm printing sits securely in there or not
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Jul 15, 2021 02:14
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Cheese Thief posted:Yea I think the portable disc players on the market now can charge by usb then output through aux. Good idea. In addition, I bet the sound quality would be better buying a cheap official cd for a few bucks compared to some 128kbit youtube stream. Sweet, sounds like a plan I hope you christen the Discman and celebrate your freedom from another operating system by spinning some Taking Back Sunday 
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Jul 15, 2021 03:16
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Javid posted:I didn't ask because it didn't occur to me that they might have one for my weird off-label application. I put an eye bolt in the piece of PVC which I will just hose clamp into the open end like it is currently while I figure out a permanent solution / see if the prototype I'm printing sits securely in there or not LOL nice. At this point I'd probably grab a barb fitting and a pipe cap.
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Jul 15, 2021 03:32
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StormDrain posted:LOL nice. At this point I'd probably grab a barb fitting and a pipe cap. That might work if my other ideas fail, but the goal is something a random oil change place guy won't need my help to recognize as the oil cap. Currently hoping this works out:   But for now  Also oops I bought a longer piece intending to cut it to length, and didn't clock that this has a big fatty wire reinforcement in it I don't feel like finding and charging the dremel to deal with, so the whole thing is tucked over to one side for the time being. That eye bolt ended up being handy there too! e: bonus PO upper decker moment: before I tore it off today this hose clamp's screw was pointed directly into the firewall, perfectly aligned to be horrible to get at from all directions 
Javid fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Jul 15, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 04:12
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Javid posted:That might work if my other ideas fail, but the goal is something a random oil change place guy won't need my help to recognize as the oil cap. Currently hoping this works out: I have one minor tweak to the oil cap, I think it should instead legitimately say 710 on it.
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Jul 15, 2021 04:16
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Cheese Thief posted:
Since that looks pretty GM-y this might work: https://twitter.com/Foone/status/1406096500594073601 In all seriousness though, if it has USB ports you can almost certainly just throw a collection of music on a USB stick and plug it in. If you want the full CD experience just grab a bunch of small USB drives and drop one album worth of MP3s on each.
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Jul 15, 2021 04:35
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wolrah posted:Since that looks pretty GM That is indeed a GM dash, current-gen Colorado/Canyon. I've never tried because I'm perfectly happy with Android Auto but I'm pretty sure it will indeed read whatever from USB.
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Jul 15, 2021 05:11
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My 2017 BMW X1 has an issue where sometimes (but not always) when I put it in reverse after turning on the car, the amount of throttle provided at idle will cycle up and down (from approx 1k-2k rpm). Sometimes it will do something similar in first, but to a smaller extent. It seems fine at higher speeds or when I apply sufficient throttle. Any idea what might be causing this? Or even just a name of what this issue is called so I can try to google further? The CEL has not turned on for this.
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Jul 15, 2021 05:43
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bergeoisie posted:My 2017 BMW X1 has an issue where sometimes (but not always) when I put it in reverse after turning on the car, the amount of throttle provided at idle will cycle up and down (from approx 1k-2k rpm). Sometimes it will do something similar in first, but to a smaller extent. It seems fine at higher speeds or when I apply sufficient throttle. Any idea what might be causing this? Or even just a name of what this issue is called so I can try to google further? The CEL has not turned on for this. What do you mean by "the amount of throttle provided at idle"? Is this happening when you provide throttle input (i.e. push down on the pedal) but then the RPM's are inconsistent? Or is it idling and does it surge all on it's own? In any case this phenomenon is called surging and I _think_ will you meant the latter issue so you can google for "surging at idle".
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Jul 15, 2021 07:08
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2007 Ford Crown Victoria. 3.27 gearing FWIW, which is a little shorter than the civilian version. MPG is absolutely atrocious, even for a boatcar. 12-14 for the most part, though I've hit 9 on one tank. Best tank was 15, highway. EPA ratings put it at 18 city, 21 highway. Power also doesn't seem to be what it should be. SO says it belches black smoke when they're behind me if I stomp it, and it'll hesitate bad (sometimes even a backfire from the intake) if I slam into the throttle instead of rolling into it. PCM reports the fuel pressure shoots up to 80-90 if I stomp it. That seems... really high for a port fuel injection engine. Vacuum seems rock solid via FORScan and Torque, though I should probably hook up a mechanical vacuum gauge to confirm. PCM is reporting 70+ PSI fuel pressure once it warms up; when cold, it fluctuates between 38-40. It primes to 38 (returnless system, BTW). Removing the vacuum line from the FPR when cold reduces the fluctuation slightly, but not entirely. There is no fuel in the vacuum line. There IS visible dampness where 2 injectors meet the rail, but I think that's a symptom (o-rings maybe leaking from high pressure?). When cold, it has a rough, but not surging, idle, and does NOT log any misfires. When driving, it might log 4-6 misfires for a 20 minute drive, unless I romp on it, then the misfires skyrocket. I'll also get a strong raw gas smell from the vents immediately after romping on it. From what I've been able to dig up, the PCM sensor will read several PSI higher than actual fuel pressure for some reason (I'm guessing because the sensor seems to sit right at the FPR). Am I right in thinking the FPR is bad? Or is this some funky FPR where the PCM can command higher/lower pressure? I know it has wires going to it, but I figured that was probably for the pressure sensor. I can't find a schrader to measure fuel pressure the proper way, so until I find a way to T in, I'm at the mercy of the PCM's readings. I also have NOT looked at short or long term fuel trims yet - I haven't figured out how to do that in FORScan, and Torque and FORScan won't share the dongle. It's not throwing any drivetrain codes (it did throw an evap leak code, new gas cap fixed that). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Jul 15, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 08:00
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