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Vir posted:The other computer might just not recognize the RAIDZ partitions? Does it see any partitions at all? If not, it looks like you've lost your data. Yeah, it wasn't detecting the actual storage at all. Thankfully because they were Inland brand drives, Micro Center honored the warranty without a fuss and refunded me.
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Jun 14, 2021 20:40
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I have a laptop from 2016. It's still perfectly fine to use as a posting station, but I do wish it would boot faster, so I want to replace the HDD with an SSD. However, I am also lazy, and since none of the files in the hard drive are strictly critical, I can never get around to doing a proper migration or back-up. My plan is to instead but a 2.5-inch hard-drive enclosure, so that if I need to pull anything from the old drive, I can access it via the enclosure and a USB connection, and then I'll just do the SSD replacement immediately. Does that make sense? Alternatively, are the connectors on a 2.5-inch drive the same as if I wanted to plug it into my desktop computer with a SATA cable and a power cable from my PSU?
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Jul 14, 2021 06:56
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gradenko_2000 posted:I have a laptop from 2016. It's still perfectly fine to use as a posting station, but I do wish it would boot faster, so I want to replace the HDD with an SSD. You should just clone the drive. Get the enclosure and then use this https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree Put the new drive 45 min later no fuss no muss.
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Jul 14, 2021 07:03
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gradenko_2000 posted:I have a laptop from 2016. It's still perfectly fine to use as a posting station, but I do wish it would boot faster, so I want to replace the HDD with an SSD. Yes, you can just squirrel the old hard drive away, but with one caveat.. If it has a hard drive password, then make sure that password is removed. You can, in theory, still unlock it with Linux. In practice, it is a pain because the laptop BIOS may encode the password before telling the drive (to account for keyboard mappings), and many motherboards don't support sata firmware lock and unlock, at least without some dumb poo poo like putting everything in suspend first, then waking up. Etc. The data and power cables between laptop and desktop SATA are the same.
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Jul 14, 2021 07:06
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MarcusSA posted:
Actually this is flipped on its head these days, and Intel is the budget choice, AMD the best performer.
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Jul 14, 2021 07:36
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Running a 3070 in a ryzen 1700x rig with a gigabyte 350 gaming motherboard. System has Benn stable for the 3 years I had it but over the last few weeks I have noticed that certain games get regular stutters. Previously had a 1070ti in and it stuttered then. When it started I thought it was something dodgy with Windows so did a fresh install but it still happens. I also occasionally get issues with USB when it will just stop seeing stuff attached. I had an issue when sometimes it would also be a pig to boot up but that appears to have gone away. My first guess is that the mobo is on the way out. Anything else to suggest before I replace that?
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Jul 15, 2021 19:21
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You are probably right about the Mobo headed downhill. The USB issues would be that or power supply.. How old is your PSU?
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Jul 16, 2021 00:43
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3 years old. Going to replace soon anyway. In other news I appear to have fixed the problem. Turned on game mode in Windows 10.whuch I always though was the opposite however I had not turned it off just seems its off by default when I installed Windows.
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Jul 16, 2021 16:43
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Bigsteve posted:3 years old. Going to replace soon anyway. Yeah, there's a thing with older ryzens and cores entering sleep states while gaming when using windows balanced power plans. If you still want to use that plan for some reason, you should install the chipset drivers for your motherboard chipset and have those install the "Ryzen Balanced" plan. Apparently this is resolved with the newest ryzens using the new default balanced plan in windows? They don't even let you use that Ryzen plan when you have a Zen 3 chip anymore. Also if there are no actual power problems with your PSU, don't replace it. 3 years is not at all old for one.
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Jul 16, 2021 21:03
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Hey dudes. I want to watch Seven Worlds One Planet on Ultra Blu Ray. I have a drive that supports it. I had a frustrating time googling and ended in failure, and half a desktop filled with files with names such as "The all you need firmware pack". IIRC to play normal Blu Rays works but is still kind of a pain and may or may not require ripping and storing each disk. Is there something I'm missing? Should I just buy a standalone player and plug it into my monitor? Any recommendations? Thanks.
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Jul 19, 2021 14:25
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this is really just an idle whimsy, but it made me curious: the SATA bandwidth limit is pretty low compared to what nand flash is capable of, which is why we have NVME. is it possible to/has anyone implemented a drive with two SATA ports to double the bandwidth? is there a technical reason that's a bad idea?
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Jul 19, 2021 14:36
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Is there such a thing as a USB switch that doesn't suck? I picked up this one May of 2020 and it started crapping out 3 months ago and just finally died. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXXQKGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It died by making everything plugged into it hot and crashy, which was kinda interesting. Everything still works at least. I just used this so I could keep my keyboard, mouse, webcam and headset plugged in to my WFH laptop and gaming Setup. 4 USB ports and 2 PCs. Only need USB 2.0, as I believe 3.0 still can causes issues with 2.4ghz devices, right? Either way I don't need 3.0. Edit: Like every single one mentions no voltage protection going either way, which is fun. Is that just not a thing? I mean I could just get a 4 port hub and do this manually, but it was neat just hitting a button. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Jul 20, 2021 |
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Jul 20, 2021 01:05
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Bondematt posted:Is there such a thing as a USB switch that doesn't suck? I just use this one and it works great https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/axgear-usb-3-0-sharing-switch-selector-2-computer-sharing-4-usb-3-0-device-kvm/14326398
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Jul 20, 2021 01:13
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I’ve kinda run into that too. Seems like anything that’s not a major component is just cheaply made trash. Reputable brands don’t seem to touch USB hubs and the like. I ended up getting a ten port one made by Ankher and it’s been okay for a year or so so far.
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Jul 20, 2021 01:42
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I'm done paying $100+ for logitech mice just to have them double click or worse becasue of lovely switches. What brand do I go to get a mouse that isn't using lovely Chinese switches? Any sites that actually cover what switches are in which mice? I can't believe a piece of equipment doesn't even last a loving year before dying when you have almost 10x the standard price for it.
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Jul 20, 2021 03:33
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You work full time clicking? I could just be lucky, my Logitech stuff usually lasts until I do something stupid like knock it off the desk. I wish MS still made that bulletproof intellimouse.
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Jul 20, 2021 03:42
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There's a mouse thread, maybe they'll know of a place? mouse problems suck
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Jul 20, 2021 04:00
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Thanks guys. I am a work from home computer toucher, so there is lots of clocking going down.
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Jul 20, 2021 04:31
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CoolCab posted:this is really just an idle whimsy, but it made me curious: the SATA bandwidth limit is pretty low compared to what nand flash is capable of, which is why we have NVME. is it possible to/has anyone implemented a drive with two SATA ports to double the bandwidth? is there a technical reason that's a bad idea? If you just want to use the SATA on the motherboard but with a higher bandwidth, RAID1 might be an acceptable substitute (for reads, at least). Or some combination of RAID to fit your needs. Other than that, you can also get SAS, which also has ginormous bandwidth. Otherwise, it sounds like you want to implement this without new hardware (beyond the drives themselves). Which means, you could use new drives and a new OS but the rest is the same. This is a bad idea because a new design (with crazy OS drivers and a new hard drive board with two interfaces) like that would be a commercial failure unless there is significant uptake. And there are likely to be few (real world) use cases that this would solve that SAS and RAID would not cover.
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Jul 20, 2021 04:36
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ninjoatse.cx posted:I'm done paying $100+ for logitech mice just to have them double click or worse becasue of lovely switches. What brand do I go to get a mouse that isn't using lovely Chinese switches? Any sites that actually cover what switches are in which mice? Razer Deathadder is my go-to and honestly I've never had a hardware failure (just the lovely pads on the side falling off and needing to be glued). Needing software to bind the different buttons is a headache as well.
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Jul 20, 2021 04:45
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ninjoatse.cx posted:I'm done paying $100+ for logitech mice just to have them double click or worse becasue of lovely switches. What brand do I go to get a mouse that isn't using lovely Chinese switches? Any sites that actually cover what switches are in which mice? You can replace the ...click... sensor on most Logitech mice. I did it a few months back on a g703 that would either double click or unclick while you were still holding it down. Just need a soldering iron. If you google your version there is probably a guide, a lot of them are similar. It's hilarious they went so loving cheap on the buttons considering the whatever the gently caress gucci 1M+ click sensors I got were like $10 shipped for a pair, which means they could probably get them for pennies. Definitely replace both left and right at once if you do it, cause the replacement sensors have a completely different feel. tuyop posted:I just use this one and it works great https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/axgear-usb-3-0-sharing-switch-selector-2-computer-sharing-4-usb-3-0-device-kvm/14326398 That one seems to be newer and not a lot of reviews yet. Problem with the Ugreen one I had is it started out fantastic for just under a year before crapping out. tehinternet posted:I’ve kinda run into that too. Seems like anything that’s not a major component is just cheaply made trash. Reputable brands don’t seem to touch USB hubs and the like. I ended up getting a ten port one made by Ankher and it’s been okay for a year or so so far. Yeah, there's not a single brand I have heard of except for Sabrent, and there's is getting ripped on for the same issues as the Ugreen. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jul 20, 2021 |
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Jul 20, 2021 05:23
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I don't really know the ins and outs of power supplies and what will ACTUALLY fit where, or if just saying "SFX" is sufficient to get a winner. So I had this Silverstone SFX 450W in this Silverstone Mini ITX case and said power supply went tits up tonight. Is any SFX form factor power supply going to fit here? It's a very "cozy" case. I'll stick with fully modular and make sure it has the supplies I need (mobo, CPU, GPU (6, 6+2), and something for 3 SATA drives), but beyond that, I should be fine, right? Thinking about grabbing, say, this EVGA SFX 550W gold SuperNOVA GM, says it's 100mm just like the old one and with a little more breathing room I should be fine. It's under a hundred bucks and I can Prime it post haste. Or should I stick with the closest Silverstone-branded replacement I can? Which I think would be this Silverstone SFX 500W? The bummer is, it looks like all the replacements have switches, which in this case will be completely inaccessible. Unless I cut a hole in the underside, which honestly I don't much loving care if I have to. Sanity check me please? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Jul 20, 2021 |
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Jul 20, 2021 06:16
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Bad Munki posted:I don't really know the ins and outs of power supplies and what will ACTUALLY fit where, or if just saying "SFX" is sufficient to get a winner. I'm not sure what you mean exactly about the switches. They all seem to have power switches on the same side as the power plug. Or wait, that case doesn't expose that side of the power supply, does it? In that case, it's probably fine anyway. Just switch it to the on position, toss it in there, and then forget about it. Your case's power buttons will still control the power state of your PC. If you need to ever work on it, just unplug the PC before opening it up and you'll be fine. Unless there's some other issue I'm missing? As for PSU compatibility, I'd just measure your current PSU to make sure of its dimensions and pick something that's the same. One word of warning, though: When swapping modular power supplies, DO NOT reuse the power cables. The standards for cables differ from company to company, and even the same company can change their standards over the years. Using another company's cables in your modular power supply can and almost certainly will damage your components.
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Jul 20, 2021 06:47
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Yeah, the case provides a low profile right angle plug and routes an internal patch to the back of the case. So, that side of the supply is inaccessible and thus no physical switch on the intended supply. And I’m well aware of the modular supply cable hijinks. Been following the GPU thread for a while and have heard all about it. Pretty dangerous time to be having components fail, that’s for sure. Hopefully it didn’t take anything else with it. Thanks!
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Jul 20, 2021 06:55
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E: nevermind, not going to risk it
Fantastic Foreskin fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Jul 28, 2021 |
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Jul 28, 2021 17:35
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I'm undecided if I should post here or in the laptop thread. Anyway, my work laptop is an Asus K750J. The battery died. There is no battery compartment, because OF COURSE there isn't. There is no information anywhere that I could find on what steps would be involved to replace the battery (checked Ifixit, Youtube, random sites). Still, I assumed I could replace it myself, so I ordered a new battery and removed 12 loving screws on this thing, and I thought that would be enough. But turns out that was just the start of my problems. The cover didn't come off, so I had to use a... spanner (is that what those plastic things to open smartphones are called?) and now I'm at an impasse. I managed to open one side but the battery seems to be exactly on the opposite end.  And the other side, while I did manage to pry it a bit open, it seems like I'll have to apply way more force to get it open which is worrisome. And I can't just throw the cover from the end I got open because of those three tiny wires connecting the different sides. They look very frail and, even if I manage to get them off without breaking any contact or whatever, going to put them back in I imagine is going to be a pain the rear end. Suggestions, please? Should I try to unplug the wires even though I could potentially gently caress the laptop entirely? Should I try to continue to pry open the other end of the laptop to raise the cover where the battery is?
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Aug 2, 2021 02:24
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You probably need to disconnect the wires. You're right, they are delicate and are a pain to replace.
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Aug 2, 2021 02:52
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I'm a dumb idiot who can't read. Edit: I can say those "spanners" are called spudgers. Good luck with the wires, they look like absolute nightmare to re-connect. Sininu fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Aug 2, 2021 |
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Aug 2, 2021 03:18
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Bluetooth range: I'm having troubles with my HTPC and occasional dropouts from all kinds of game controllers with front-mounted Bluetooth dongle. PS3 & PS4 system in same location have no issues. It's range-related: If I move machine closer to couch the issues go away. Even if I remove the Playstations and put HTPC in same spot I still get issues. Linux & Windows + different dongles ("Class 1" supposedly) don't make a difference. It's hard to find information on dongles/cards since they usually also have WiFi, and the antenna doesn't help Bluetooth connectivity, presumably because either the antenna is WiFi only or I just don't have enough gain with Bluetooth for some reason. I'm probably going to teardown a dongle or two and physically verify that the external antenna is connected to Bluetooth or resolder it myself (which I'm guessing should work since they're both the same frequency? I'm not a wireless engineer). Will a WiFi directional antenna work with Bluetooth? Both stations are largely static so I don't need omnidirectional range. I'm also considering a long USB cable run close to the couch or something with the antenna much closer. Anybody else have Bluetooth hardware woes and found something that worked? It's frustrating that the game consoles 'just work', but I have no idea what actually makes them work properly. AbsoluteLlama fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Aug 2, 2021 |
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Aug 2, 2021 19:29
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Have you tried a usb extension cord to create some distance between the dongle and the computer? Even a couple of inches could help. Some usb 3 ports can generate crazy amounts of noise in the 2.4ghz band.
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Aug 2, 2021 21:09
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I thought I hated Lenovo (my company is a Lenovo shop and I’d fix them/loot them for parts when I was a computer toucher) — that Asus looks annoying as poo poo. Are you positive that you didn’t miss a screw or that one isn’t hidden behind something else? Normally laptops open way more easily than that — I know I’ve done that with a couple HPs in the past.
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Aug 2, 2021 23:30
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Flipperwaldt posted:Have you tried a usb extension cord to create some distance between the dongle and the computer? Even a couple of inches could help. Some usb 3 ports can generate crazy amounts of noise in the 2.4ghz band. Definitely try this, my PS Gold Headphones would intermittently cut out until I got an extension and moved the transmitter away from my neighbouring PC. I had to get it about 6ft away from where the PS4 was until it ended up being stable.
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Aug 6, 2021 01:30
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I know that wireless mouse connect to the host computer via a dongle that plugs into a USB port do wireless keyboards work the same way? I've never owned one before.
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Aug 8, 2021 17:29
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gradenko_2000 posted:I know that wireless mouse connect to the host computer via a dongle that plugs into a USB port Yes, sometimes the same dongle! Most wireless keyboards and mice are either RF or Bluetooth.
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Aug 8, 2021 17:41
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Need some help with a wireless Xerox B210 printer. Device has been working perfectly for the past year hooked up to my wifi. Out of nowhere today it decides to become unfindable. It's still listed as connected to my router, but trying to print or connect to the IP goes nowhere. Printing via USB works fine. Literally nothing has changed with the setup. Last time I tried printing was a few days ago and it was fine. Have tried to reset and reconnect to the wifi but the wizard keeps kicking me back with a "computer connection failed". In the background the settings do establish but the printer doesn't become accessible. I can't update the firmware as that requires it to be connected to a network. Xerox forums have been hopeless. There's a single thread with a few posts about the same problem but no responses. Busted wireless card? Hacked?
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Aug 8, 2021 21:08
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What can I reasonably do about the absurd amount of fan noise from this box? It's an Alienware Aurora R7, this is more or less a midsize form factor. I haven't modified this machine in any way physically outside of keeping the vents clean. I'm mostly sure it's the CPU fan, although the power supply is also mounted right on top of it. I've heard the GPU fan by itself and it's tolerable, but that CPU fan gets so loud under load I have to use headphones when I play games to be able to hear any detail over it without ramping up the volume to pissing off my wife levels. None of the vents are obstructed and it's not in an enclosed space. The built in thermal controls are currently set to auto. Thanks guys!
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Aug 9, 2021 19:53
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Farking Bastage posted:What can I reasonably do about the absurd amount of fan noise from this box? It's an Alienware Aurora R7, this is more or less a midsize form factor. I haven't modified this machine in any way physically outside of keeping the vents clean. I'm mostly sure it's the CPU fan, although the power supply is also mounted right on top of it. I've heard the GPU fan by itself and it's tolerable, but that CPU fan gets so loud under load I have to use headphones when I play games to be able to hear any detail over it without ramping up the volume to pissing off my wife levels. None of the vents are obstructed and it's not in an enclosed space. The built in thermal controls are currently set to auto. Pop the side panel off and take a photo but almost certainly it's some proprietary dell CPU cooler on a dell motherboard with nonstandard mounting points where you can't attach any other cooler.
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Aug 9, 2021 20:12
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 It's an 8th gen I7 8700. That cooler measures from the surface of the motherboard to the top of the fan around 57mm tall
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Aug 9, 2021 20:30
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It looks like you can fit a small AIO cooler on it in place of the CPU cooler. You're height-limited from the PSU so you can't really fit in any good air coolers. It also looks like doing so would be a pain in the rear end as you will need to remove the pre-installed HSF bracket, but at least it's not one of the Dell boards that GN saw recently where the CPU cooler is secured to the frame of the PC: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53iF8ZzAgcw
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Aug 9, 2021 21:03
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future ghost posted:It looks like you can fit a small AIO cooler on it in place of the CPU cooler. You're height-limited from the PSU so you can't really fit in any good air coolers. Thanks! I've been poking around the insides of PC's for a minute or two  That's the first box I ever bought instead of built since crypto turned the GPU market into a real life implementation of the Hunger Games. I thought about converting it to liquid, and it's a solid machine with a 1080ti that runs Seikuro at 4k, but that's getting into upgrade cost territory for a box that's now two full generations behind on GPU, and at least 2 on CPU. If I can quiet it down some, it'll keep me happy until I start lagging.
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Aug 9, 2021 23:06
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