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Booyah- posted:I'm working on my first model plane kit. I'm much more used to the easy mode gundam and games workshop kits but I'm hoping to airbrush this one and do some weathering with oils. What I would probably do with this one is start off with a painting session before doing any assembly -- paint the seat cushion its color; do the seat frame, top piece, and joy stick their color, then do the instrument panel, cockpit tub, and fuselage interior their color. Then do brush painting of the harness and buckle and instrument panel. Then assemble the seat and apply the decals after an application of gloss coat where the two decals go. Then apply the decals to the instrument panel (after gloss coat). Then dry brush the instrument panel to pick out knobs and details, etc. Then the side panel decals. Then assemble all the rest of the pieces. This would be a few days of work, giving time for paint and gloss coat and decals to dry in between steps. In the mean time, you can work ahead looking at test fitting various parts to see how well they fit together, sanding down the mating surfaces of fuselage halves to get rid of ejector pin marks, doing the same for fuel tanks and gluing those together, etc. The biggest challenge of these sorts of kits is working through the instructions and figuring out all the stuff they don't tell you. They don't tell you partly because it would be an enormous amount of work to tell you absolutely everything you need to do, but mostly because having it all laid out would take the fun out of it. (But also there is no "right" way.)
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Jul 7, 2021 20:06
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Leave posted:Back again to ask about modeling stuff for my dad. A few weeks back, he went to the Air Force museum near Dayton, Ohio. He was all jazzed about seeing the Memphis Belle, and I was browsing Monsters in Motion, and found this. Scale mates is my go to place for kit reviews. If a review was written, they have it. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hk-models-01f002-b-17f-flying-fortress--1319127
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Jul 7, 2021 21:51
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Leave posted:Back again to ask about modeling stuff for my dad. A few weeks back, he went to the Air Force museum near Dayton, Ohio. He was all jazzed about seeing the Memphis Belle, and I was browsing Monsters in Motion, and found this. The thing about a 1/48 scale B-17 is that it's going to be huge and have a ton of parts. You might want to start small, https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Model_Aircraft/b-17g/MIN00014754/product.php
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Jul 7, 2021 22:02
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Leave posted:Back again to ask about modeling stuff for my dad. A few weeks back, he went to the Air Force museum near Dayton, Ohio. He was all jazzed about seeing the Memphis Belle, and I was browsing Monsters in Motion, and found this. It is a nice kit, and I would personally be delighted to receive it as a gift - I'm planning on buying one of the other variants in that scale at some point. That said, I'm also waiting until I move some place bigger because I'll need the space. This is a giant model plane and it's really, really fiddly, so if your dad's not incredibly into the hobby, it may not be the kit for him. If your dad likes WWII American planes, any of the Tamiya 1/72 Mustang, Thunderbolt or Corsair kits is an incredibly safe bet. They all look great and go together well, and they're not hard to come by either.
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Jul 7, 2021 23:07
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fwiw i think HK's either b-17f or b-17g got dinged in reviews for accuracy issues but i'm sure they completely unnoticeable to people not going over it with a caliper
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Jul 7, 2021 23:25
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MyronMulch posted:It's not necessary to use CA glue in this situation, a glue like Tamiya extra-thin will dissolve many paints, but either way, the usual idea is to carefully scrape the paint away from the mating surfaces and then apply the cement. Using CA glue eliminates the tedious task of scraping paint. For stuff like cockpits and landing gear where it is more efficient to paint before gluing, I just paint it up then put a drop of CA glue on a disposable surface and apply it to the painted parts using a toothpick and glue it up. The only time I scrape paint is when the parts are such a tight fit that the thickness of the paint prevents them from interlocking.
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Jul 8, 2021 02:53
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MyronMulch posted:What I would probably do with this one is start off with a painting session before doing any assembly -- paint the seat cushion its color; do the seat frame, top piece, and joy stick their color, then do the instrument panel, cockpit tub, and fuselage interior their color. Then do brush painting of the harness and buckle and instrument panel. Then assemble the seat and apply the decals after an application of gloss coat where the two decals go. Then apply the decals to the instrument panel (after gloss coat). Then dry brush the instrument panel to pick out knobs and details, etc. Then the side panel decals. Then assemble all the rest of the pieces. This would be a few days of work, giving time for paint and gloss coat and decals to dry in between steps. In the mean time, you can work ahead looking at test fitting various parts to see how well they fit together, sanding down the mating surfaces of fuselage halves to get rid of ejector pin marks, doing the same for fuel tanks and gluing those together, etc. thanks! yeah it's been fun to read through the instructions and plan out what i'm going to do.
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Jul 8, 2021 18:06
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I'm painting a V22 Osprey right now, and the painting guide calls for light ghost gray and dark ghost gray. I purchased a rattle can of each and thought "Huh, the caps look an awful lot alike. Oh well, I'm sure the paint won't be that close a match". Put down a base of light ghost gray, did a bunch of taping off, put down a coat of dark ghost gray..... It's the exact same color. Like, if I squint at the right angle in the right light, I can sort of see the difference. drat your eyes, Tamiya.
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Jul 9, 2021 21:33
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Booyah- posted:thanks! yeah it's been fun to read through the instructions and plan out what i'm going to do. Here is a video I did a while back about reading through instructions and planning out what you are going to do to make your build time more efficient. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lw-IQWv8N5o
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Jul 10, 2021 16:26
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SkunkDuster posted:disposable surface You know those cheap, nasty dollar store toothpicks ? Rough wood tapering to a "point" ? Every modeller needs a box of those. They're a good size for applying CA glue with the paddle end. The alleged point can be used to do fine, tight lines that you can't quite make with a brush, and they're also good for sticking small parts to with blue tac; notably parts that are too fine for an alligator clip. I also use them for scraping blue tac out of nooks and crannies after masking with it. SkunkDuster posted:Here is a video I did a while back about reading through instructions and planning out what you are going to do to make your build time more efficient. I was looking for that in response to the original question ! Stupid me forgot to add it to my modeling playlist last time, thanks for reposting !
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Jul 10, 2021 18:40
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Slugworth posted:I'm painting a V22 Osprey right now, and the painting guide calls for light ghost gray and dark ghost gray. I purchased a rattle can of each and thought "Huh, the caps look an awful lot alike. Oh well, I'm sure the paint won't be that close a match". Put down a base of light ghost gray, did a bunch of taping off, put down a coat of dark ghost gray..... It's the exact same color. Like, if I squint at the right angle in the right light, I can sort of see the difference. drat your eyes, Tamiya. I had a problem with a mislabeled bottle of vallejo dark ghost grey that was in fact light ghost grey. I got about halfway through painting the model before i realized something was up. The countershading scheme works very well and I can see why the military chose it.
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Jul 11, 2021 19:13
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Finished my latest fake tank.      Obligatory family photo. 
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Jul 11, 2021 21:22
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grassy gnoll posted:Finished my latest fake tank. This is just begging for a Hello Kitty decal. What kind of tank is it?
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Jul 11, 2021 22:16
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Needs glitter coming out of the exhaust Edit: and/or gun barrels
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Jul 11, 2021 22:59
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SkunkDuster posted:This is just begging for a Hello Kitty decal. What kind of tank is it?
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Jul 12, 2021 00:34
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Arquinsiel posted:Looks like a Panzer II chassis with a Flakvierling 38 stuck on top? It's definitely Panzer II inspired, but it has a sprocket from a Stuart, and most interestingly the entire thing is backwards. The location of vision ports suggests that the driver and a second crewman sit in what used to be the engine compartment. I can't see any exhaust pipes, but if the transmission is where it used to be then the engine must be under the gun platform.
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Jul 12, 2021 00:44
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That kind of works. The crew would be sitting on the outside in action anyway.
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Jul 12, 2021 00:46
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The British have made worse ideas. 
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Jul 12, 2021 12:22
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Ensign Expendable posted:It's definitely Panzer II inspired, but it has a sprocket from a Stuart, and most interestingly the entire thing is backwards. The location of vision ports suggests that the driver and a second crewman sit in what used to be the engine compartment. I can't see any exhaust pipes, but if the transmission is where it used to be then the engine must be under the gun platform.  Exactly this - the drive sprocket came out of an M5 kit, iirc. Everything else either was styrene sheet or straight out of the Pz.II box. I was actually kinda proud of getting it turned around without it looking like total garbage, even if that loading hatch is waaaay too huge. Watch me become the nerdiest person in this thread with one sentence: I made these two tanks as illustrations of a sort for an RPG setting, where instead of ICEs everything runs on magical bullshit, hence no exhaust stacks. The whole thing came about when I noticed the turret ring on the Pz.II was almost exactly the same size as the base of the flak mount. That's it, that's the creative process.
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Jul 12, 2021 14:10
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That's a really impressive compound angle hull to build from scratch.
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Jul 12, 2021 15:27
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Another of my adventures in tiny model kits. This one was adorable, a little undersea home. The coloured lighting is really pleasing. The plastic does not look quite as filthy with the eye. I ended up attaching the outermost plastic with magnets because glue does not love this shiny stuff. Very pleased overall! In progress, finally having figured out how to make little cushions. (the answer to all problems is double-sided tape)  Complete, in through the door. Wonky chandelier took forever. I hated it but it looks okay now. Just seen how the bed is trying to come apart, I have fixed it since.  In through the outside. Fish!  I need to take a break before I start another one. These things are catnip to my hyperfocus problems.
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Jul 14, 2021 02:18
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I messed up the paint a little on my Tiger I so I was looking for a cheap and easy solution to take the paint off and some Japanese blogs assured me that Magiclean Kitchen Cleaner is the OG solution for stripping water-based acrylics. At 300 yen a bottle versus over triple that for specific purpose hobby paint strippers I figured it was worth a try. I did start by spraying a little bit on and working it with a wet toothbrush but the concentration of the relevant active ingredient appears to be quite low as I had to start spraying it on more liberally to get the more thickly coated areas moving. The results were pretty fantastic. Even with a liberal scrubbing from the toothbrush the plastic surface is still pretty much the same as it was out of box, no loss of detail. There's some slight degradation of the plastic on the thinnest parts but nothing serious. Everything that moved before still moves and everything that didn't is still stuck in place. I forgot to take a before picture but imagine this with an inch thick layer of gloopy dunkelgelb. 
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Jul 14, 2021 09:25
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HopperUK posted:Another of my adventures in tiny model kits. This one was adorable, a little undersea home. The coloured lighting is really pleasing. The plastic does not look quite as filthy with the eye. I ended up attaching the outermost plastic with magnets because glue does not love this shiny stuff. Very pleased overall! The ambient shot with the exterior shell up is quite lovely. You say "problem," but there's nothing like scratching that particular brain itch.
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Jul 14, 2021 14:18
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grassy gnoll posted:The ambient shot with the exterior shell up is quite lovely. Thanks so much! Yeah it's only really a problem in that I forget to do trivial things like sleep or go to the bathroom. 
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Jul 14, 2021 17:21
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Not wearing a diaper at the work bench, rookie mistake.
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Jul 14, 2021 18:04
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grassy gnoll posted:Not wearing a diaper at the work bench, rookie mistake. You can mount a toilet seat to a bucket. Just saying.
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Jul 14, 2021 18:41
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Cthulu Carl posted:You can mount a toilet seat to a bucket. Just saying. Just waterproof the floor, walk around naked from the waste down, and pay someone to muck out your house like a stable.
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Jul 15, 2021 06:28
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The final touch for my Panzer IV: crew figures. I only managed to find these two kits in 1:16th scale, but two is plenty to liven it up.      Full album: https://imgur.com/gallery/xGDfJs8
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Jul 15, 2021 17:27
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Well done! Dude looks pretty smug about his short tracking job.
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Jul 15, 2021 18:07
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That is model show quality there Ensign. How much time did you spend overall on the kit + figures? I'm posting for feedback, I've never done oil weathering before and I'm trying to follow various guides and find that balance between "what weathering?" and over weathering. Some of the colors behave very differently, ie. burnt umber is very strong and goes a long way, but yellow ochre vanishes as soon as it even smells thinner nearby. Kindly tell me if you all think it looks good/bad, too much/too little, etc.so if need be I can change my approach before I start on the turret. The look I'm going for is kinda like this tank, not utterly beaten up but not clean either. I'll be using ~real dirt~ and pigment powder for the texture and final touches.   Also please ignore the overspray where I did the chevron, we're not gonna talk about it because it's going to remind me of decals. 
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Jul 16, 2021 06:05
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Vorenus posted:That is model show quality there Ensign. How much time did you spend overall on the kit + figures?
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Jul 16, 2021 11:23
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I took some guidance from this page, and also this Night Shift video. If it's important, my order was paint -> gloss varnish -> black panel liner -> matte varnish before the oils, as recommended by another helpful goon a few months back. One thing that might be important since I have no idea how common this is, I put the oils on a piece of cardboard for 30-60 minutes to let it absorb most of the linseed oil as recommended by Michael Rinaldi so it dries more quickly. Full disclosure, I'm not sure I got that exact finish as much by following the guides as I did by going waaaaaay too heavy on oil (mainly on the pictured side and a couple of the upper hull panels) before cutting it way back. Vorenus fucked around with this message at 12:43 on Jul 16, 2021 |
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Jul 16, 2021 12:40
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Vorenus posted:That is model show quality there Ensign. How much time did you spend overall on the kit + figures? Hard to say, I started the tank sometime at the end of the last summer (scalemates says July 22nd, but I'm pretty sure that was just when I received the kit, not when I started it) and finished in late June. I took about three months off working from it because if moving and two smaller projects so I didn't get burned out. I started on the figures right after the tank. They didn't take anywhere as much time as I expected. The black uniforms are both a blessing and a curse. Overall this is by far the longest project I've ever done and I don't know if I will do another 1:16 tank and crew any time soon except for the T-34 I already bought, of course. Edit: re: weathering: have you tried pigments? I think the look you're going for is best achieved with pigments rather than oils. You can buy premade dust/earth ones or just get a box of pastels and a grater from the art store.
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Jul 16, 2021 15:04
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Vorenus posted:Also please ignore the overspray where I did the chevron, we're not gonna talk about it because it's going to remind me of decals. The rest of the finish looks good enough that the overspray looks plausibly intentional, so just call it a happy accident!
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Jul 16, 2021 15:46
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Yeah that overspray looks like the guy who stenciled the chevron hosed up, looks good.
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Jul 16, 2021 17:22
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Jonny Nox posted:I think I just discovered I don't really read the actual words in any given post. well, that plan went to poo poo...  
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Jul 17, 2021 07:47
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FrozenVent posted:Yeah that overspray looks like the guy who stenciled the chevron hosed up, looks good. Same, it looks like they let private dobby mark up the tank because at the very least he can't accidentally kill anyone with a spray can. Looks good!
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Jul 17, 2021 13:25
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Jonny Nox posted:well, that plan went to poo poo... If your stash can still fit in one photo then it's not that bad.
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Jul 17, 2021 18:15
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What everyone using for airbrushes? I’ve used an old school Badger 350 single action siphon feed for a long time but I’d like to get a nice dual action one. I have looked at air brushed in a while and there’s seems to be a ton of different models. I don’t have a set budget but $250 or so is probably as much as I’d want to spend unless there’s a good reason to pay a bit more.
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Jul 17, 2021 20:23
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Mr. Apollo posted:What everyone using for airbrushes? I’ve used an old school Badger 350 single action siphon feed for a long time but I’d like to get a nice dual action one. I have looked at air brushed in a while and there’s seems to be a ton of different models. I don’t have a set budget but $250 or so is probably as much as I’d want to spend unless there’s a good reason to pay a bit more. The Paasche talon is a popular budget dual action with users in this thread. The GSI Creos/Mr Hobby airbrushes are produced by the same OEM that Iwata uses, so they're probably the best value right now since you get Iwata quality without the price. I'd recommend starting with one of their .3mm dual actions (PS-289 or PS-274), which usually go for around $100. The standout Iwata (without a Mr Hobby equivalent) is probably the HP-CS, since it has a less finicky nozzle than most Japanese airbrushes. H&S is also a comparable option. At like $250 I think you're better off going for one of the ~$100 .3mm airbrushes and saving that extra ~$150 for other supplies (or another more specialized airbrush once you have more experience).
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Jul 17, 2021 20:54
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