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I have negotiated a part of the yard for a 1:24 crawler course with the wife. It'll be roughly the size of 12 to 14 washing machines. Any cool/unusual obstacles I could build? I have plenty of material of all sort lying around. I was thinking Tomb Raider - type obstacles, like swinging blades, a rotating bridge and the like.
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May 25, 2021 18:00
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Have you watched Hyperdrive on Netflix? Some decent inspiration there. The seesaw bridge perhaps? This sounds amazing either way and I would like to see pictures and video.
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May 25, 2021 20:37
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Spatule posted:I have negotiated a part of the yard for a 1:24 crawler course with the wife. It'll be roughly the size of 12 to 14 washing machines. This is a strange unit of measure... I'd just grab some rail ties and do rock piles. It'd be fun if the rock features could rock/roll to make placement tricky.
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May 26, 2021 04:39
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deong posted:This is a strange unit of measure... Fine, it's 3 by 5 meters. 
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May 26, 2021 07:47
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I finally finished my K10 body. The rear fenders need the tiniest bit of trimming, and it sits slightly off center because i accidentally drilled the holes a smidge too far to one side, but this honestly turned out better than I expected.     And now I know to drill my holes before painting for whenever I get around to doing my next body 
T1g4h fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Jun 7, 2021 |
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Jun 7, 2021 22:24
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Looks great, body aligned better than any 1:1 scale squarebody I’ve seen lately.
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Jun 7, 2021 23:18
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Hell yeah, cool bodies! My Typhon body was pretty boring, so I decided to try something fun. The stock body comes with this stripey decal that goes on the inside on contact surfaces to protect your paint. Under the right lighting it shows through, and I always kinda liked it. Well, I had a jar of Tamiya clear red paint sitting around so...  I'm actually really really pleased with this. It's clear enough to show the internals, but colored enough that at most angles it just looks red. And either the paint or my lovely airbrush gave it a nice metallic sparkle up close. I'm honestly tempted to strip the red paint off the wing, or get a new black one, seems it might look better that way.
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Jun 8, 2021 02:37
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Translucent metallic red looks amazing. I'd go with a yellow wing and wheels and call it a tribute to Hot Dog Stand windows color scheme
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Jun 15, 2021 14:12
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Dug out my 20 year old Mini-Z MR01 and gave it a good cleaning and tune-up. Originally a Dodge Viper kit, it was upgraded with a ton of original Kyosho performance parts and a Calsonic Skyline body and wheels. It still has tons of speed and power, but needs new tires as the old ones are dry rotted after 20 years in a box. Picked up new rechargeable batteries from IKEA and ordered a bearing kit, since it was pretty much the only significant upgrade it didn't have. Edit: Holy poo poo, I posted about this car on page 2 of this thread over 12 years ago! evobatman fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Jun 28, 2021 |
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Jun 28, 2021 19:59
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mini-z's own so much.
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Jun 28, 2021 23:21
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They are cool, I have a Honda NSX on the MR-02 platform. It is insane how they can have 4WD these days
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Jun 28, 2021 23:41
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I mean, it's just a pan car. :-) Speaking of tiny cars, Turbo Racing released a update to their 1:76 scale car. Instead of worm drive, it's got a spur gear, and braking! It's a little bigger. Also, my TA08 shipped.
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Jul 9, 2021 09:47
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Nerobro posted:I mean, it's just a pan car. :-) drat you! I don’t need 2 of these.
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Jul 10, 2021 01:33
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I've wanted to get a Mini-Z, but how well do they run on average street pavement? I imagine the only place I could really drive it well would be...Inside my store when it's closed. Hmm.
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Jul 10, 2021 22:08
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Enos Shenk posted:I've wanted to get a Mini-Z, but how well do they run on average street pavement? I imagine the only place I could really drive it well would be...Inside my store when it's closed. Hmm. They are less than great unless the parking lot is perfect. If it's fresh pavement, and you're willing to sweep first.. it can be ok. Otherwise expect random yeets as it find stones, sticks and whatevers and flys into the orbit. You can, reasonably, setup a track on a 4x8 sheet of plywood... though bigger is more fun. For driving on streets, you want something with off road suspension.
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Jul 12, 2021 19:23
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Finally got angry/sad/old enough to start my king hauler (knight hauler) build. It's like most of the 80s-90s Tamiya kits: very fun and also a challenge to build, as the screws are bagged randomly instead of by step. Almost all JIS hardware. Chassis rail length vs TA-02  Drive axles have two open gear diffs and share a leaf spring setup  So much metal in this kit: the chassis rails are metal, the steer axle beam is metal, on metal leaf springs, with tiny u-bolts and metal plates holding it together under metal shackles.  I'm terrified to get to the body construction, I think this is going to be a slow project that I will immediately destroy by trying to actually drive it.
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Jul 14, 2021 04:02
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More Tamiya content! I finished my Safari Porsche 911 this week. It has been far to hot (32-38C) outside to work on full scale stuff recently. So 1:10 scale indoors it is.   Clearance TT-02 911 RSR kit - built with the rally config instead of the instructions on-road setup. 80mm eBay dampers Tamiya Hilux kit BFG Mud Terrain tires Tamiya LED controller kit 3d printed headlight and tail light buckets Axial SC10 roof basket I love the Tamiya kits because they're like Lego and you really have to build them and not the usual minor assembly. Edit: A massive thank you to Somewhat Heroic for the guidance and instructions on painting the body. McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Jul 17, 2021 |
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Jul 17, 2021 02:53
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That is an absolute killer. Can you post some pics without the body? I'm curious to see how you mounted the shocks. 80mm is quite a bit longer than the kit parts.
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Jul 17, 2021 05:41
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This is a really fun mod. Good work!
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Jul 18, 2021 00:31
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McTinkerson posted:More Tamiya content!  Seriously good work! The gold wheels/BFGs and lights are a nice touch. I need to get around to finishing (and driving) my Sand Scorcher. Lost all my drive after I missed the deadline to take it to my dune trip earlier this year but oh well. I went camping over Independence Day weekend and had all four crawlers out in force. My youngest (4) got an SCX10III RTR Gladiator last month and he has been great with it! My daughter drove my Jeep, and my son and I were driving our VS4-10's. I really like how sure footed the VS4 is. The Gladiator with the long wheelbase just works on the SCX10III though. They really got the shocks set up right on it. Plenty of roll and sway, I think it drives better than the SCX10III Rubicon. 
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Jul 19, 2021 22:24
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hauler continued: 3-speed transmission  build and glued tire sets. also installed the running boards/boxes, motor, and electronics platform. now i have to figure out how to fit all the MFU stuff inside the cab, then worry about the cab painting.
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Jul 20, 2021 02:46
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I won a big lot of MR01 spare parts and managed to build two complete running chassis from them to add to my old Viper/Skyline build
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Jul 30, 2021 09:25
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Those MRs are so cool, I know I'm gonna get bored one of these days and kit out a little fleet of them. First speaker hook-up test of the multifunction control unit, which is an ESC plus audio and vibration controller and pass-through interface for your servos so it can make all the right noises based on what's happening with the truck. It also knows when a trailer is hooked up and adjusts the throttle response and engine noise to make it feel like the truck is hauling weight. https://imgur.com/GKCWu0o https://imgur.com/a/3dkxeEl The JDM Tamiya tuned 36 turn truck motor is still way, way too fast. I ordered a cheapo 80t crawler motor to make it more realistic, and am going to expo the heck out of all the controls so they look less jumpy. Currently getting the body pieces ready for the paint booth.
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Jul 30, 2021 10:12
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Got back into rc after 10 years from racing on-road and 20 for racing on dirt.
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Aug 30, 2021 04:18
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JudgeJoeBrown posted:Got back into rc after 10 years from racing on-road and 20 for racing on dirt. Nice! 1/8th off road is amazing; the cars are super tough and not actually that expensive at all for entry-ish ones like the Hobao Hyper buggies, whilst being possible to make them go insanely fast if you want to  I got one because I had a Turbo Burns for a bit when I was a teenager and loved it but couldn't afford to run/fix it at the time, and current 1/8th electric stuff is waaay cheaper and simpler now. Although I've also decided to rebuild a few vintage 1/10th cars too, which has become stupidly expensive since lockdowns happened :o
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Aug 31, 2021 00:15
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 Painted and stickered my new DT-03 today. No real mods or upgrades yet other than bearings and a decent servo. It's crazy how differently it drives compared to my 4wd stuff. Lots of fun, though.
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Sep 16, 2021 01:10
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 I pulled my old Arrma Raider out of storage today and threw one of my spare 2S LiPos in it just to see what kind of difference it would make. The thing was an absolute rocket, it spent more time sliding sideways and flinging gravel than anything else. Pretty sure I cooked the stock motor though, Arrma advertises these as being LiPo ready but I feel like the factory brushed motor might not be capable of actually handling that kind of power Oh well, at least replacements are only like $20!
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Sep 25, 2021 02:30
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:
Buggies are push-push-push. I like them. The DT cars will wheelie, which is real neat! The DT03 has the polycarbonate tub so it's fairly rigid. But definitely doesn't turn as well as my DT02 does. when you're ready, come back, I've gone up and down the path of upgrades with these cars. :-) Where $10 is worth it, and where the $50 isn't.
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Sep 28, 2021 20:18
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Nerobro posted:Buggies are push-push-push. I like them. The DT cars will wheelie, which is real neat! The DT03 has the polycarbonate tub so it's fairly rigid. But definitely doesn't turn as well as my DT02 does. Yeah, the understeer is crazy but even just running it around the yard I've kinda gotten the hang of how to modulate the throttle to get it to rotate some. 180s on hard surfaces are getting easy. I haven't run a fully charged battery through it yet but it would pull wheelies on a new battery with what I assume is a storage charge on it. It came with the CVA shocks so I'm good there, but what do you recommend for smart money upgrades?
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Sep 28, 2021 20:39
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Yeah, the understeer is crazy but even just running it around the yard I've kinda gotten the hang of how to modulate the throttle to get it to rotate some. 180s on hard surfaces are getting easy. I haven't run a fully charged battery through it yet but it would pull wheelies on a new battery with what I assume is a storage charge on it. It came with the CVA shocks so I'm good there, but what do you recommend for smart money upgrades? Are they the seperate piston type shocks, or are they the metal top shocks? The DT03 I built had fixed piston tops. Buy both size pinions the car can take! buy them now. On the cheap cars, the biggest problem are are steering precision, and bounce. The DT03 has the centered servo, making bumpsteer symmetrical.. but I believe it also has the all plastic servo saver. That's a $10 part that should be replaced with the heavy duty Tamiya one (the one with three metal rings) or a 3 racing or yeah racing equivalent. https://www.amazon.com/Hobby-Compan...ps%2C165&sr=8-2 The stock springs are "eh" these will work, and handle hamfisted noobs. Having springs to set how the car rides is a big deal. Getting that right will help get the car turning consistently, and jumping flat(er). Springs are for how the car "drives normally". Jumps.. we'll get to next. https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-300053832-tamiya/dp/B000FG9SS4/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=tamiya+buggy+spring+set&qid=1632860525&sr=8-16 Those can be found for as little as $12 or so. When the car takes a big hit, the shock towers end up being springs, because they're soft plastic. This is an undampened spring, and can, and will, kick parts of the car back in the air after a big hit. There's carbon shock towers available. The front is most important, the rear... much less so, given how strong the rear shock mounts are. The front shock tower is $15 or so. It will stop the "bounce again" that happens coming off of jumps, and can keep the front end more planted on gravel/rough stuff. Now, this is a thing that you'll run into with all cars. when you make "one thing" stronger, the stresses go elsewhere. The plastic shock bodies are springs too. So after the shock towers, you need to look at a set of shocks. From yeah, or 3 racing, it's not bad. But... that crosses into $100 of upgrade parts, and on a $100 car.. well you're well past the point of "I can absolutely feel and see it" returns. I wouldn't go there. "I" do care enough to do "within a mm ride height" and I do care enough about the shocks.. so I did go there with mine. $40 will make a world of difference on the car. It won't be faster, but it will be a whole heck of a lot more fun. It'll go where you point it, and you'll have control where you didn't have control before. There's a metal battery retainer, metal radio tray, metal chassis joiner, metal servo mount, universal shafts, metal knuckles, metal rear hubs..... and lots more. But I wouldn't go there. At that point, you should know what you want, and buy a nice buggy. Once you start slathering metal on the car, instead of bouncing, things break. And that is the antithesis of a basher. Do not un-bash a basher! In the end, you just have something heavy and still can't hang with the real fun cars.
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Sep 28, 2021 21:33
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Nerobro posted:Are they the seperate piston type shocks, or are they the metal top shocks? The DT03 I built had fixed piston tops. Yeah, they're the fixed piston-top shocks. I had the pinion and front shock mount on my list but didn't really think of the servo saver. Thanks for the tips!
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Sep 28, 2021 21:50
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Yeah, they're the fixed piston-top shocks. I had the pinion and front shock mount on my list but didn't really think of the servo saver. Thanks for the tips! Those shocks... are pretty terrible. Annoyingly, you'd see a real improvement using plastic piston shocks. Shoot, I probably have a set. Where are you located, generally?
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Sep 30, 2021 12:16
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Nerobro posted:Those shocks... are pretty terrible. Annoyingly, you'd see a real improvement using plastic piston shocks. Shoot, I probably have a set. Where are you located, generally? I'm up north of Chicago. Not far from the Cheeseland border.
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Sep 30, 2021 20:23
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Nerobro posted:Those shocks... are pretty terrible. Annoyingly, you'd see a real improvement using plastic piston shocks. Shoot, I probably have a set. Where are you located, generally? Presumably the old Tamiya CVAs which had separate pistons are much better and they changed them to make them cheaper to produce?
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Sep 30, 2021 23:35
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I'm up north of Chicago. Not far from the Cheeseland border. woo.. I'm just south of o-hare. PM incoming.. assuming you have them legooolas posted:Presumably the old Tamiya CVAs which had separate pistons are much better and they changed them to make them cheaper to produce? The single peice shafts are easier and cheaper to produce, exactly. They require no precision machining, and no piston molds, and no e-clips. You only find the metal piston ones on the absolute cheapest models. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Oct 2, 2021 |
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Oct 2, 2021 14:12
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I want to convert a Bruder 1:16 fixed axel model to a driveable vehicle. What do I need to buy in order not to cry? I am thinking buying some sort of kit to convert would be cheaper than the individual components? I have a nice RTR car with AWD and stuff but I need nothing nearly that fancy. I just want to drive the truck on asphalt at no significant speed. Only thing that's important is a way to trigger 1-2 arduino inputs remotely. Basically, I only need steering servo, motor, esc, controller and receiver. Everything else I am planing to make myself, unless I end up with a good steering rack/suspension to reuse. If I source these components individually, I end up at like 150 bucks for the "cheapest" stuff, but it's all pretty high end and feature packed. There are full cars for like 50 bucks that seem to have all of the above and more at a far lower pricepoint, but also rather low grade toy stuff. Is there some middle ground where I can just buy a chassis kit that is cheaper? Or am I stuck going either cheap toy or expensive components? SEKCobra fucked around with this message at 10:47 on Dec 11, 2021 |
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Dec 11, 2021 09:53
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Take this with a grain of salt as I’ve not done much rc in ages but that doesn’t sound that if you’re buying “hobby grade” nicer stuff but I’m sure you can sort something for less. You could try a combo esc receiver: https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/srx220-fhss-2-channel-crawler-receiver-and-esc/SPMSRX220.html and I bet there are other cheaper things like that that would work fine. You could look at spare parts from existing small kits too.
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Dec 11, 2021 14:00
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Oh yeah my bad, I could get the motor down to about 30€ if I went brushed. However the most expensive parts are still the remote and receiver, which is a 70€ package deal.
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Dec 11, 2021 14:21
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I don’t know if this would be big enough because it’s 1:24 but spare parts kits like this too: https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbyp...AyABEgJ50PD_BwE and the radio for that is like $40. I suppose it probably might be cheapest to do as you said and find a cheap kit/toy that has 3 channels and cannibalize it for parts.
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Dec 11, 2021 14:35
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SEKCobra posted:Is there some middle ground where I can just buy a chassis kit that is cheaper? Or am I stuck going either cheap toy or expensive components?
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Dec 11, 2021 14:37
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