|
mattfl posted:
|
#
?
May 15, 2021 19:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 13:55 |
|
|
mattfl posted:
This is why I priced in a long term warranty when I was buying my GC compared to Ford, Toyota, etc.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2021 05:17
|
|
|
Well that wasn't that bad of a job. About 1 1/2 hours total and it's back to being leak free, at least that specific leak, for now.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2021 16:18
|
|
|
My wife really wants to bed-liner the floor of her 2014 wrangler. Carpets been out of it for the last year. Tips/recommendations? Bad idea?
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 18:10
|
|
|
Not a bad idea at all IMO. If it goes off-road and sees much water I probably wouldn't put the carpets back in unless you're ready to pull them and dry them often. I keep the carpeting in the front but it's trivial to pull out when it needs to dry, plus the drain plugs help.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 20:52
|
|
|
Run the bedliner up as high as you can. I always see rust starting at the top edge, especially in the footwells.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 20:56
|
|
|
I did mine with a small hand sander to scuff the paint and the pro-grade spray liner. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/truck-bed-and-undercoating/professional-grade-truck-bed-coating Took about 8 cans to get everything covered with the seats out. Make sure you get the pro stuff. The regular poo poo is runny and garbage. Theyve also got a roller kit for like $100 if you want the textured option. E: I posted pics earlier in the thread if you wanna go look.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 22:57
|
|
|
Accidentally joined the jeep club 2000 XJ Sport with the 4.0L engine. Surprisingly minimal rust. It was well taken care of and loved other than a lovely leaky aftermarket sunroof that is now sealed shut and a headliner that needs to be replaced.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2021 23:32
|
|
|
Fashionably Great posted:Accidentally joined the jeep club "Aftermarket sunroof" is a phrase I'd never heard and sounds terrifying. Nice Jeep though.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 02:57
|
|
|
Fashionably Great posted:Accidentally joined the jeep club Headliners are easy to DIY and the material is pretty cheap on Amazon! I've had good luck with the highest hold 3m spray adhesive for doing them.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 04:03
|
|
|
Just double check whether you've got the 0331 or 0331 TUPY head, and if it's not the TUPY head keep an eye on coolant usage and oil condition.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 04:09
|
|
|
Just had my first recall work done. No complaints beyond it taking forever (2.5 hours for two software flashes and I went ahead and let them do the $80 oil change for $0). I may have bumped my exhaust crossover pipe on a rock. 
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2021 21:30
|
|
|
Going to use some time off next week to change the oil in my 99 4.0 TJ. This will only be the second time doing it myself, when it was a daily driver and needed it more frequently I always just took it someplace to do it. It's garage kept in Florida and these days only sees a few hundred miles a year of mostly just me tooling around town for weekend errands. So my questions are- is there any specific brand/weight of oil that would be best for me? I know I did a full synthetic last time and did some googling about what to use, but don't recall exactly what I ended up buying. And then how often should I really be changing the oil if just using it for super low miles around town?
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 00:49
|
|
|
It's a Jeep 4.0 so anything vaguely resembling oil will be fine. In theory since it's a flat-tappet engine you should run something with more zinc in it, but in practice it's a goddamn four liter and it's not going to die of a wiped cam lobe. Run whatever Xw30 you can get your hands on the cheapest. I run Costco 10w30 in mine when I don't have some other oil to dump in it instead.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 01:00
|
|
|
I ran Sam's Club "Motor Oil" brand 10w30 in my daily driver for 6 months, sent a sample to Blackstone Labs, and they told me to try pushing my oil change interval further. There are better engines out there, but none I'd trust to last longer.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 01:07
|
|
|
Good to know, I won't sweat the exact oil at all. What about the interval? If miles and use aren't really a factor, and what point is the time the oil's been sitting in there?
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 01:23
|
|
|
I've changed mine more often due to "dropping the oil pan" than I have any other interval, unfortunately. I'd stretch it as far as annually if you really aren't racking up a ton of miles.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 02:55
|
|
|
I'd agree with that. I've driven my jeep minimally (maybe 10 miles?) over the last year+ of pandemic, and it's getting an oil change in short order because maybe I can drive places again? Also, new XJ guy, get the WeatherTech floormats from Quadratec. They're niiiiiiiiice.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 04:31
|
|
|
I'm thinking of getting a 2015-2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Probably the V6, probably a 2017-2018 Trailhawk, but maybe an older one if I can find one that has the stuff I think I want. How big a difference is something like quadra-drive II vs quadra-trac II? I'm looking to dip a toe into actual offroading. I live in DFW so there're some ORV parks within reasonable driving distance, I was thinking I might drive out to them with my kid and mess around, but not try anything difficult. My main concern is that for more recent grand cherokees I have to get the air suspension if I want the electronic LSD, and I've heard the reliability on the air suspension can be bad. I don't mind ripping it out and replacing it when it goes bad, but then I've read that the system will complain every time you start it up etc. I'm reasonable at working on cars, but I'm not looking for a serious project, it needs to be able to drive most of the time. Am I going to regret it? Should I get a lexus GX460 instead? I don't really want the 460 because the gas mileage is kind of poo poo, and although I don't drive enough for it to matter in terms of cost of ownership, in practice the people I go climbing with will complain because of perceived gas costs to drive like 400 miles out to a spot in arkansas or whatever. I don't want to buy it and then have to ride around in a crosstrek because no one will let me take my V8 SUV.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 18:34
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:Also, new XJ guy, get the WeatherTech floormats from Quadratec. They're niiiiiiiiice. Yeah these are pricey but so good. One of those get-what-you-pay-for things, for sure.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2021 19:08
|
|
|
M. Night Skymall posted:2015-2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I've had a 2012 Overland Summit with all the bells and whistles since like 2015. To be honest, it has been pretty low maintenance. Never had an issue with the air suspension and we found it pretty useful for off roading as well as deep snow. Ours does have have the 5.7 V8, gas mileage around town isn't great, but highway driving seems to get 20+ cruising on flat ground. Strangely enough, we are considering getting a 460 for my wife, as we could use a 3rd row every once in a while.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 00:01
|
|
|
Moey posted:I've had a 2012 Overland Summit with all the bells and whistles since like 2015. To be honest, it has been pretty low maintenance. Never had an issue with the air suspension and we found it pretty useful for off roading as well as deep snow. If the V8 can realistically get 20 on the highway that's probably doable. My commute is pretty short so city MPG doesn't matter much for me. The V8 probably holds value better too if I decide jeeps aren't for me, and it'd be more fun. Most of the trailhawks I see are V6s for some reason though. Still, could probably find a 2015/2016 summit. I wish Jeep had not elected to call one car ranging from 30k to 80k MSRP the same name. 
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 15:02
|
|
|
M. Night Skymall posted:If the V8 can realistically get 20 on the highway that's probably doable. My commute is pretty short so city MPG doesn't matter much for me. The V8 probably holds value better too if I decide jeeps aren't for me, and it'd be more fun. Most of the trailhawks I see are V6s for some reason though. Still, could probably find a 2015/2016 summit. I wish Jeep had not elected to call one car ranging from 30k to 80k MSRP the same name. I have a notably older 5.7 from ’07 that almost definitely gets worse milage and can get 20mpg highway. The thing to remember is is that the cylinder deactivation makes your milage drop off faster at higher speeds because it's using all 8 cylinders more often. Around town I get about 12mpg because I can't keep my foot off the loud pedal, but on the freeway I just set the cruise control and chill while I watch my mpg number on the dash climb.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2021 16:18
|
|
|
 Found this tragedy while camping over the weekend. Looked like it was a super cherry 2-door 98-01 XJ before winter crushed it. Paint was in great shape and interior was clean. RIP XJ ☹️
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2021 18:55
|
|
|
Just spent a month in Hawaii, and watched a moron tourist abuse a rental Wrangler. The road to and from this one great beach is unimproved, over lava rocks and gravel. Having high clearance is convenient, but I did it in a minivan and I watched a local do it in a lowered Civic. These loud bros in a rental Jeep behind us were bombing through the road. I pulled over on one of the crawly spots to allow them to pass, just before the road starts being paved and normal. As they pulled ahead, I saw their vehicle was pissing dark fluid in a long trail behind them. I wanted to catch up, honk and flash my lights to get them to stop to tell them about it. As I got on the good road, they were 20 yards ahead on the dirt part of the road, and did a fishtailing burnout in the dirt and skittered off towards the highway. Oh well. Someone's parents are going to be on the hook for a lot of damage when they return that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2021 19:34
|
|
|
The thread title is appropriate, eager to diagnose my locker issue I forgot to take the lid off my oil pan and pulled off the diff cover. Last year I asked about inner shaft seals, after 4 months one of mine finally started leaking out the outer seals. Like an idiot, I took it offroad last weekend anyway. Ended up winching out of a stupid huge mud hole, yay! My Spartan locker keeps locking up. It was fine before the mud hole. Made for an interesting 180 mile drive home locked up in the front. Up on jacks, it will unlock a little spinning a tire by hand, then it locks up. Crank case was a pale grey oil / water mixture. Would this be enough to screw up the locker's springs/friction? Other thought, dragging the front through mud could have bent the front tie rod, but it seemed to track just fine. Could excess toe in cause the lock up? Carrier gets to come out, worth it to replace both shaft seals now?
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2021 03:46
|
|
|
M. Night Skymall posted:I'm thinking of getting a 2015-2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Probably the V6, probably a 2017-2018 Trailhawk 2018 diesel thawk owner here. Very happy with it. I take it on forest service trails to 6k foot mountains between orange and riverside counties and it's a good highway driver. But I've also never gone off-road in anything prior to it, so I can't compare. I'm a novice jeep owner and off-roader though, but I did price in a full extended warranty when cost comparing thanks to lurking in this thread. No issues other than a trim repair and 2 or 3 recalls on the diesel. Used market is loving crazy. My value is 43k with 3 years old and 22k miles. I bought it at 45k. You may do better getting a new one at this point. You get free wave membership when buying new which covers 4 oil changes for 2 years. Iirc, it's 150 a year after that which includes 2 oil changes. I'm not mechanically inclined unlike most goons in this thread, so I'd rather pay someone or let warranty deal with my inevitable jeep issues. I also am 6 2, so it was the midsize I was most comfortable in as well.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2021 07:06
|
|
|
Evil SpongeBob posted:2018 diesel thawk owner here. Very happy with it. I take it on forest service trails to 6k foot mountains between orange and riverside counties and it's a good highway driver. But I've also never gone off-road in anything prior to it, so I can't compare. I'm a novice jeep owner and off-roader though, but I did price in a full extended warranty when cost comparing thanks to lurking in this thread. No issues other than a trim repair and 2 or 3 recalls on the diesel. I'm looking at a 2018 V8 now that's a CPO and I think that's probably enough of a warranty for me to be OK with it. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and I'd rather have a slightly older car I don't feel as bad about getting dirty/bolting on dumb armor and romping through moderate trails than buying something new and not wanting to void my warranty. New car market is also pretty screwy. I originally was going to get a kia telluride and not do any actual offroading beyond dirt roads to get places, but they're like 5k over MSRP after you pre-order them or something super stupid. Anyway, I'm selling a car for this one and its value also went up maybe 4k, so I figure the total premium to buy now isn't *that* bad, and it's going to be loving ages before the market settles down since new cars aren't really coming in at the rate they should be, which'll have cascading effects on supply for a while.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2021 14:16
|
|
|
Hmmm, I wonder why the old gal is bogging so badly under throttle. Got a smog check coming up, guess I should do the full tune-up thing... 
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2021 03:58
|
|
|
The Royal Nonesuch posted:Hmmm, I wonder why the old gal is bogging so badly under throttle. Got a smog check coming up, guess I should do the full tune-up thing... LOL, you got your money's worth out of that rotor, and then some.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2021 12:27
|
|
|
Pulled Spartan locker out, putting old spider gears back in, well maybe. Watched a bunch of videos and these things should just spin in, right? I spin the side gears and the spring washer just hits the housing and slides off. The gear drags without the washer, is this normal? I'm contemplating grinding down the high spot on the housing to see if I can get this to slip past. Gets stuck here:  Random pic of Jeep in the natural environment, winching it out. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2021 06:31
|
|
|
Yeah, might need to wiggle the side gears around a bit - perhaps they're not fully seated? Also it's generally easiest to get it all in there if you put both spiders in at once, make sure they're lined up right tooth wise. And use a new roll pin - I've had a few friends reuse the original and have it split in half and fall out a few thousand miles later. Then the cross shaft slides out, high fives the pinion gear, and turns everything in the housing into metal mulch.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2021 16:50
|
|
|
I thought about making a little spreader for the side gears since I'm making one for the inner seals anyway, don't have the right size washers on hand though. The JKs have Belville washers, but I didn't expect that much pressure on the gear. The sides are seated as good as I can get by hand but that's probably not seating the washer.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2021 18:26
|
|
|
Weird, it should just go in by hand then. Maybe try turning it in the other way? Check for snags or burrs on the forging that are blocking it?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2021 19:40
|
|
|
Went to put a different lunchbox locker in, measured the gap with the supplied washers and gap was .005 too big. Instructions say try the original thrust washers next, gap was then .045 too small. Seems Dana put some stiff thrust washers to make up for the fact my carrier is at the upper end of the tolerance range. Really glad this Jeep isn't my DD. Edit: Torq Masters has "thick" thrust washers .012 thicker than the .030 the kit came with, hopefully they ship those out asap. That should put me right in the middle of the tolerance range. giundy fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jul 1, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2021 05:07
|
|
|
Shot in the dark, anyone ever replace or have replaced the radiator on their WK2 5.7? I apparently have a nice hole in mine and doing it myself looks like hell. Also, might as well replace (have replaced) the water pump while it's torn open? 2012 with 100k miles. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2021 04:01
|
|
|
Anybody need a Ford 9” that looks set up for a CJ? There’s a matching passenger-drop front axle, both are set up for 5x5.5”, and I bet I could get the set for under $100. I’d be happy to strap it to a pallet and send it on the barge just to keep it from being scrapped.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2021 06:55
|
|
|
Pics of the front axle? I don't need it, but I can probably help identify it. Spring mounts, knuckles, cover, casting, etc.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2021 08:02
|
|
|
Went back today, didn’t end up pulling it out but I think I did find a buyer for the axle. Another guy was going to buy an FJ60 for the axles because he busted an axle shaft on the AMC 20 in his CJ-5. His plan was to swap the FJ60 rear axle in as an upgrade  So he may get that 9” and I may end up with an FJ60. I may have already bought it, I’m not actually sure. But I do know there is no axle swap that guy is going to put in his CJ-5 that would be easier or cheaper than just replacing the AMC 20 shafts with single-piece upgrades.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2021 10:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 13:55 |
|
|
My neighbor is selling his 2003 Cherokee Laredo 2WD with 109,000 miles on it. The best offer he’s gotten is from a dealership for $2,000. I’m thinking about matching the offer if he’s willing to sell it to me. He’s used it as a second car since he’s had it, and on the eye test it looks to be in good shape. He’s in his 60s and doesn’t seem to have modified everything. Anything I should look for, or any red flags from that year that should scare me off? I know Jeep’s had up and down years, but haven’t followed it super closely. I’m mostly looking at it as a grocery getter/second car that I’ll hang onto until it dies. I learned to drive on an ‘88 Cherokee Pioneer, so I have some nostalgia for the model. Seems like it’d be a great deal if there aren’t any major issues.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2021 02:50
|
|
