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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


One of the neighbours volunteered to split the cost of the part of the fencing that abutts our properties, so that's £380 clawed back on that project.

Also dumped all the outdoor plumbing pipes outdoors, since that is their natural habitat. Got half-way to clearing my workbench and table saw by doing that.

Also decided to abandon the plinth block plan, since the join between my skirting and architrave will be close enough. I can still only work on doorways that are finished, but that's over half, plus any skirting that doesn't meet a door.

I wanted to get the mats ordered for the workshop today, but unfortunately the code book I have isn't comprehensive enough to know how much wiggle room I have around the windows/doors, so I've ordered a couple more books. One will hopefully have some paint by numbers eurocode examples, if not the other has enough info to do the calculations from scratch.

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Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

I'm glad things are progressing and that your thread survived being posted in the goon sagas thread.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Rexxed posted:

I'm glad things are progressing and that your thread survived being posted in the goon sagas thread.

I hadn't seen that :) It certainly fits the bill, if maybe a bit low stakes.

Herstory Begins Now
Aug 5, 2003
SOME REALLY TEDIOUS DUMB SHIT THAT SUCKS ASS TO READ ->>

Jaded Burnout posted:

Rather than buy a bunch more single-use tools I've rented a jackhammer for tomorrow and warned the neighbours. Neighbourhood politics tip: if you're about to make a bunch of noise with a tool it costs nothing to offer to use it to help the neighbours with their own jobs, especially if you know they don't have any that need doing.

jackhammer tip, don't expect to be doing anything other than recovering for the next day or two after doing a big jackhammer project unless you are in very good shape.

especially not more jackhammering lmao, oh my god

Herstory Begins Now
Aug 5, 2003
SOME REALLY TEDIOUS DUMB SHIT THAT SUCKS ASS TO READ ->>
Actually come to think of it, if a neighbor offered to help me jackhammer something and assuming I wasn't feeling like being a dick and making up some extra work to do cuz they offered, I'd actually appreciate the offer cuz it's not every day that someone just shows up at your door to make you laugh

anyways i'm not actually saying this to rag on you, i understand you have been properly humbled by the jackhammer and tbh there's nothing I could say that is going to top what you probably went through with that thing lol

Stringent
Dec 22, 2004


image text goes here
given herstory's accuracy rate, you should be good to jackhammer all day every day so go wild yo

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Oh yeah well as I say it helps if you carefully make sure they don’t have anything that needs doing before asking.

I actually felt fine the day after, which is unusual, but it certainly destroyed me day-of.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Alright, just mocking me now.

Jeherrin
Jun 7, 2012
You may be unprotected.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Does doubled-up C24 2x8"s make sense for a header over a 2m (6'7") door opening? I've done as much planning as I think I'm capable of and I'm coming out at 2100mm 2x4"s for joists, topped by doubled 200mm (8") headers, supporting C24 3x8"s as flat roof joists. That gets me my 2500mm max height with standard 2100 doorway.

The UK is just not set up for timber framed structures. All our headers are assumed to be steel or concrete lintels sat on two-leaf brick or block (or, at most, external brick/block leaf with internal timber leaf).

gAzatron
Aug 24, 2005
Tuna? Tuna is worth NOTHING!
Slippery Tilde
It might not be exactly what you're after, but here in New Zealand most of our timber framed buildings are based off our standard NZS:3604 which is considered an acceptable solution for our building code. I think it's free to download at the moment too (Instead of around $300 NZD). It might give you a place to start or some ideas?

NZS:3604 NZ Building Code

It's been a while since I've had to look at residential construction though!

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


gAzatron posted:

It might not be exactly what you're after, but here in New Zealand most of our timber framed buildings are based off our standard NZS:3604 which is considered an acceptable solution for our building code. I think it's free to download at the moment too (Instead of around $300 NZD). It might give you a place to start or some ideas?

NZS:3604 NZ Building Code

It's been a while since I've had to look at residential construction though!

That is very helpful, thank you. It looks like your Acceptable Solution documents mirror our Approved Document documents except that ours only cover masonry construction.

Based on your standards, paired 2x8"s should be more than enough.

The only thing I still have a slight concern for is bracing. The NZ standards don't apply directly it seems, because you have different wind conditions and also earthquakes, but I guess it'll be fine. I might just wing it.

As far as I can tell there's no similar "here's some simple rules to follow" documents for Eurocode 5. It's very comprehensive but ultimately seems to provide limits and guidance for formal stuctural engineering (which is not something you can learn in a week).

Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Jul 10, 2021

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Spent all of yesterday getting my table saw back into operation with enough clearance for architrave, because there's always 10 things to do before you can do the thing you want to do.



Then fitted the first architrave. The sanding is very quick with a coarse foam block.



I didn't get the superglue to stick the mitres while it was on the bench, so they're a little out of line on the wall, but I'll just sand that to correct it. I'll try the superglue again on the next one maybe.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000

Ultra Carp
Just finished the thread. Thanks for all the content! I feel like between "render" and "architrave" I've really built some vocabulary off it. It would be awesome to see a photo tour of the whole place at this point, if you're willing to share.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Vim Fuego posted:

Just finished the thread. Thanks for all the content! I feel like between "render" and "architrave" I've really built some vocabulary off it.

Thanks!

Vim Fuego posted:

It would be awesome to see a photo tour of the whole place at this point, if you're willing to share.

Do I dare show my shame in full. Maybe.

Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 13:05 on Jul 13, 2021

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I'm just going to pop this here for a second as I'm on a different computer and want to discuss this with you folks.

https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/made posted:

(e)the height of the building, enclosure or container would exceed—

(i)4 metres in the case of a building with a dual-pitched roof,

(ii)2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within 2 metres of the boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse, or

(iii)3 metres in any other case;

(f)the height of the eaves of the building would exceed 2.5 metres;

Actually nevermind I've done some more digging and this is more complicated than I thought.

Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Jul 13, 2021

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Alright so I went out to do some exploratory marking of the dig site.



Can't be within 2m of the boundary, so let's mark that.



But that only gives us one point. We can track a line alone the left boundary because we're working parallel to that, but the rear boundary slopes away, so getting a line perpendicular to the left boundary is tricky without the world's biggest T-square.

So, we form a triangle with two trackable points on the boundary, in this case I measured from the point to the corner of the fencing and then marked the same distance on the other side. I can then take the center point of the base of that triangle and form a line.



Checked with some square-enough wood.



OK now we're off to the races.



Measuring along the back line to the other fence in 2m increments, it's hard to see the marks here but I came up 1m short.



This is sort-of expected because the original design assumed a 10.6m wide garden with 300mm thick walls, so 2 + 0.3 + 6 + 0.3 + 2 == 10.6, and I'm marking this square from the outside of the walls. The walls have also shrunk to 150mm during the switch to single-leaf timber, but even so that's 500mm extra.

Pulled out the laser, looks like we're actually at 10.8m.



So, I'll need to recentre this square a little to account for both the smaller structure and the wider space, but that's no problem, this was just preliminary.




You can see why that pad had to go, even though it was only slightly infringing (though it will extend a bit further along the pad than that).



Gave the soil a quick test dig with the mattock and a regular-rear end spade.



It was actually easier than expected, for once. This took just a couple of seconds even while tired at the end of the day, since most of the work is done by gravity when standing on the spade.

The soil is nice and rich. Darker in person than this photo.



I have something like 200m³ of soil like this, so lots of good growing in the future. Fortunately I don't need to dig out quite that much.

CancerCakes
Jan 10, 2006

Goddamn I want to build a workshop in my garden so bad.

Make sure you have some raised beds in place before the excavation - soil is heavy and very difficult to store so you only want to move it once! If you do want to store it try and get some bulk delivery bags (the big ones that are used for gravel etc) off gumtree, don't do what I did and wheelbarrow it all to one part of the garden then realise I need to move it. I was only dealing with about 2 M3 and it was a pain!

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


That would be wise, except! I'm using a (different) landscaper to do the second fix to the garden so I'll probably dump it wherever is least effort and let them sort it out.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Workshop marking out take two.

First up, need some stakes. This offcut from the stairs will do nicely.




Nice sharpened stakes ready for vampires and/or the ground.



Like lil matches.




I checked that the rear white line is parallel to the house and it seems to be, so can go ahead marking out the external footprint of structure, centered between the fences.





Cleared out the corner where the concrete slab was, and guess what's underneath? More concrete!



Hopefully just some large hardcore but not with my luck.

Gets a blue splodge and a cairn.




Surely there can't be anything solid just out in the random grass, right?



Sigh. Random wooden thing in the ground surrounded by bricks! Why? Dunno, problem for later me. Gets a blue splodge, no cairn, because gently caress you.

Checked corner to corner, it's about right. Close enough to dig out.




The final corner is also on a hard standing, this time just paving slabs though, so OK to pull out, but I couldn't be hosed today so that got a blue splodge too.

Marked it out.


Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


A mild annoyance I hadn't realised, apparently it's best to install skirting etc before carpets, but after solid flooring, so I'm going to have to figure out what I want in each room now.

CancerCakes
Jan 10, 2006

Yes this is true. You can get quarter round strips for covering expansion gaps where you have installed hard flooring after skirts though, but that stuff is almost as much of a faff as skirts.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


It's looking like I'm going to have to lay an entire additional T&G chipboard subfloor on top of the existing T&G chipboard subfloor in the two suspended timber downstairs rooms if I want to make up the height difference with the tile in the rest of the ground floor.

There's a 32mm difference between the subfloor and the finished tile, so even a generous 14mm for carpet or engineered wood flooring doesn't get close with a 2mm underlay.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I'm planning on doing something with my portable AC unit to make the perverts in the HVAC thread unhappy, and to do so I need to clear the upstairs to-be-bathroom of dust (it's the room closest to the bedrooms with shaded windows).

To clear the dust I needed to clear the tools, and if I'm removing the tools I should probably use them for the reason they're there, which is to finish off three small jobs from when I moved the doorway a while ago. I've been procrastinating on these for weeks now and they took literally 5 minutes.

After that was all done I went outside to try to make sure I didn't have any more unpleasant things hiding under the ground.

Step 1: How Concretey Is That Slab In The Window?



Looks pretty fuckin' concretey.



Fortunately it looks like the majority of the part I need to remove now is just sand and soil.



And the remainder looks like a "dig under and hit with a sledge" job.



Step 2: What Hides Beneath (The Paving Slabs)?

Nothing.



Step 3: Please don't let this wooden base hide an evil cellar or something



Much bigger than I thought. No idea its original purpose, it was mostly hidden by brush when I bought the place.



One pry bar and deadlift later..



Nothing.




More junk for the skip, I guess.



So, all in all, annoyed that there's another slab under the slab, but at least there's not another one under that one. Probably.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Imagine 4 slabs, not on a cliff, because they are in JB's garden.



(nice work)

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Now you did it, you opened the gateway in the back garden. Some kind of horror thing lives under there!

I'm sure they just knocked down the old shed or some fencing and poured the slab for the new one on top or something, but doing it on top of old wood sure is a weird way to go. Maybe they figured it's "one weird trick to get it mostly flat" and by the time it rots it's someone else's problem. It's survived pretty well for being in the dirt for however many years.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Rexxed posted:

Now you did it, you opened the gateway in the back garden. Some kind of horror thing lives under there!

I'm sure they just knocked down the old shed or some fencing and poured the slab for the new one on top or something, but doing it on top of old wood sure is a weird way to go. Maybe they figured it's "one weird trick to get it mostly flat" and by the time it rots it's someone else's problem. It's survived pretty well for being in the dirt for however many years.

Ah no these are separate parts of the garden. The shed was on top of a slab which is partially on top of some poured concrete.

The wooden things were built and put there purposefully like that; they were ringed with brick.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
That looks to have held up pretty well as it must have been in the ground since well before you bought the house. If I was to hazard a guess it's some kind of durable tropical hardwood.

dragonshardz
May 2, 2017


At a guess, that wooden stuff was some kind of an inset deck which dirt eventually crept over.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Jaded Burnout posted:

Ah no these are separate parts of the garden. The shed was on top of a slab which is partially on top of some poured concrete.

The wooden things were built and put there purposefully like that; they were ringed with brick.

Oh I misunderstood the sequence of events. The wood is still kind of a mystery but maybe they were putting some plants or something on top.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Just Winging It posted:

That looks to have held up pretty well as it must have been in the ground since well before you bought the house. If I was to hazard a guess it's some kind of durable tropical hardwood.

I was wondering about that too. My suspicion is the (grand)father made it in his lil shed, probably decades back, but I’ve been wrong about timelines with these people before.

I’ll cut a bit of the wood open and we can see. The boards on top are starting to soften vs the structure.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Skip arrived today. Thought I’d booked it for tomorrow but no matter. I can start on the garden clearance in earnest once the heat has died down a little.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


First step of garden clearance is make the path passable.

I moved a bunch of dirt from near the wall over to the fence when I was putting in the battening, and now it can go back.



In theory, anyway, but the ground was solid as a rock. A bit of time with a mattock and a shovel got the job done.



Cleared the bricks from the front garden.



Some old iron for the rag & bone man (neighbour claimed the lawn roller).



Lots to do.



Tore down the lattice that was here and disposed of most of it.



Cleared a bit of the concrete pieces and was left with this.



Looks a lot like it did at the beginning of the day, and that will be true for a while as it's slow going. But I only have the skip for 2 weeks so that's my time limit.

Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Jul 23, 2021

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Chopped up a bunch of floorboards to fit in the skip.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


More progress clearing the garden. Main floorboard pile cleared, and maybe a third of the concrete pad.

I also needed to order underlay and extra subfloor for the house, and decided rather than write down all the floor areas of each room somewhere random and then forget about it again, I'd put it in a spreadsheet, which also means I could walk around with my phone entering the numbers.



Underlay for the house ordered.



I was also going to get more subfloor so the ground floor was entirely level but I just can't be hosed to spend £260 avoiding two small steps in rooms that won't get year-round use.

Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Jul 25, 2021

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004




CancerCakes
Jan 10, 2006

Christ it's a bit hot for that don't you think! I've pretty much written off the next couple of months as it is too bloody hot.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I have no choice. Fortunately it’s been raining here quite a bit which is nice when you’re out in it

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


There's trouble brewing.

Materials shortages means I can no longer get hold of 8x3" C24 boards in 6m lengths as easily. Might come available again by September, might not. I can find 5.4m lengths but that would leave me with almost no margin for error, and with the slope involved might not even get full support on the wall.

So I've started talking to easi-joist manufacturers, and using those would mean I'd need fewer since they'd be at 600 centres for the same height.

Unfortunately the lead time on those is 5 weeks, and they can't be modified to a different design once they're made, so there's little room to adapt like you could with regular timber. Since my planning application has a decision date of 8th September, I may miss my deadline of getting the structure built and weathertight by winter.

So, I could wait, and possibly get hosed by the weather, or order now and possibly lose £1500 in materials if I have to modify the design.

I have very politely asked the planning department if they could take an earlier look, but I'm not banking on that.

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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Ran a few more barrowfuls to the skip then ran out of energy, so I started freeing up more concrete chunks and busting others up with a sledge.







I was wondering why some of the edge pieces were giving me so much grief pulling them out.



Still more to do, got rained off.

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