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MRC48B posted:if it's going click but not moving air, it means no one wired the fan motor to the furnace board for fan only operation. if you want help from this thread you need to post pictures of the wiring so we can see what's up. Ah that makes sense thanks. Here's the wiring diagram:  I'm not sure exactly which part of the board you need to see so here's the bottom showing the 2 wires going to the thermostat:  And the upper left side of the control board that has the the power connections.  The furnace is a York Affinity 8.S if that helps. Let me know if there's better pictures I can take.
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Jul 17, 2021 04:00
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If I'm reading that right you need "G" wired up. It's the one connected to "FAN ON" but not also connected to "HEAT" or "COOL." Do not trust me blindly. Seriously. Wait for a pro in here.
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Jul 17, 2021 04:45
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where is the black blower wire? it should be plugged into the spade between yellow and white/blue. EDIT: hey whats this:  try moving that jumper to heat then try jumping R to G again. MRC48B fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Jul 17, 2021 |
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Jul 17, 2021 05:11
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MRC48B posted:where is the black blower wire? it should be plugged into the spade between yellow and white/blue. Changing the jumper did it. Thank you very much!
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Jul 17, 2021 18:19
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What's the scoop on HVAC filters? I have a MERV13 one in for the first couple days of running after house renovation work (cutting concrete, drywall, etc ) and it's ready to be swapped out. Very passionate opinions online to either just get the lowest filter level possible; or MERV 8 to 13 is fine for cleaner air and no appreciable difference in performance. I'm not measuring pressure drops but do have a kid with mild allergies so I don't mind getting one of those pollen/allergen ones, but aren't sure if system impacts and lifespan arguments are overblown. Only have a 1" thick slot for what it's worth Edit: I can get cheap MERV 8/10/12 ones, but the 12's are the cheapest. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jul 18, 2021 |
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Jul 18, 2021 01:23
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PageMaster posted:Only have a 1" thick slot for what it's worth That's a no from me dog. If you want to go with a higher MERV level, you should do it with a filter with much more area, like a 4" or 5" cabinet. I mean, your total external static will be the final word, but typically those 1" filters in MERV 12 are too restrictive. You'd probably be better off with a separate air cleaner unit, since those run continuous and can be located in the rooms where you spend the most time.
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Jul 18, 2021 01:33
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Motronic posted:Definitely worth cracking the case open, because if it's what it looks like you should be able to easily fab up some sort of fresh air intake. OK so the weather is heating up enough that I got around to doing this. Unfortunately I couldn't get the case completely off. Even after removing the screws, the front is clipped to the back in a way that feels like there's a trick to opening them safely, and I didn't want to damage the plastic more than I already had, so we just have the view with the filters removed.  It's hard to say for certain, but the top and bottom heat exchangers are definitely two separate blocks. Whether they're connected thermally I couldn't say. As far as I can tell they've also gone to some trouble to have panels separating the two areas, but again it's possible there's some opening further back. Hot air output (bottom left)  Maybe room-air intake? (bottom right)  Click for big.
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Jul 18, 2021 13:53
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Yeah, that looks right. Big question is if there's a circulator fan to blow across the evap up top. Maybe do a bit of cardboard aided engineering to mock something up and give it a try.
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Jul 18, 2021 16:42
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Motronic posted:Yeah, that looks right. Big question is if there's a circulator fan to blow across the evap up top. Maybe do a bit of cardboard aided engineering to mock something up and give it a try. What would I be looking for during the test, to see if it works or not?
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Jul 18, 2021 17:12
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Jaded Burnout posted:What would I be looking for during the test, to see if it works or not? Cold air goes into the house, outside air and hot air go outside the house. Basically wherever the cold air comes out tells you what the other three are doing. The intake portion for the cold air exhaust is the room intake. The other two go outside. If you run it right now and touch the fins one of them should be hot and the other very cold. Got a laser temp?
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Jul 18, 2021 17:25
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H110Hawk posted:Cold air goes into the house, outside air and hot air go outside the house. Basically wherever the cold air comes out tells you what the other three are doing. The intake portion for the cold air exhaust is the room intake. The other two go outside. Sorry this is me misunderstanding, but I'm still not quite sure where this gets me. The cold air comes out the top, I know that much, and the hot air comes out of the circular vent. I think the question we've been trying to answer is whether the two intakes (with the filters, I presume) are independent or not. H110Hawk posted:If you run it right now and touch the fins one of them should be hot and the other very cold. Got a laser temp? This much I can check, I do have one, yeah.
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Jul 18, 2021 17:50
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Jaded Burnout posted:I think the question we've been trying to answer is whether the two intakes (with the filters, I presume) are independent or not. Yeah, exactly. My only concern is that the fan on the bottom left output is diverted to both exhaust air/take in are from the bottom right AND to supply air to blow across the evap coil up top. If there is another fan (probably in front of that evap coil) that can draw room air from the back of the coil across it and exiting through the front I think this will work for you. I assume there's no good way to get a peek inside the front cover to see if you can find a fan in there up top.
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Jul 18, 2021 18:03
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H110Hawk posted:If you run it right now and touch the fins one of them should be hot and the other very cold. Got a laser temp? OK so I tried it in a 27ºC room, very inefficiently, all filters off and both exhausts just dumping into the room. With a target temp of 22ºC, top fins dropped to ~15ºC, bottom fins rose to ~38ºC. Motronic posted:Yeah, exactly. My only concern is that the fan on the bottom left output is diverted to both exhaust air/take in are from the bottom right AND to supply air to blow across the evap coil up top. If there is another fan (probably in front of that evap coil) that can draw room air from the back of the coil across it and exiting through the front I think this will work for you. Unfortunately not, though somewhere I do have an endoscope-type camera that I could maybe snake around the upper block? Edit: or, actually, if the fan is forward of the upper coil it's presumably sat under the cold air output, so I should be able to see it by looking down the throat of the output? Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Jul 18, 2021 |
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Jul 18, 2021 18:11
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Yep there is a rotating drum style fan directly under the cold air output.
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Jul 18, 2021 18:18
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great, so now you need to make a box/hose adapter for the lower right compartment, so that you are feeding outside air directly into the lower coil, then exhausting it back outside on the left.
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Jul 18, 2021 18:23
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MRC48B posted:great, so now you need to make a box/hose adapter for the lower right compartment, so that you are feeding outside air directly into the lower coil, then exhausting it back outside on the left. 👍🏻
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Jul 18, 2021 18:30
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Jaded Burnout posted:Yep there is a rotating drum style fan directly under the cold air output. Sweet! Then it looks like you can make this work.
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Jul 18, 2021 18:31
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I can't wait to see what sort of contraption results from this.
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Jul 18, 2021 21:43
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H110Hawk posted:I can't wait to see what sort of contraption results from this. I'm picturing a foamboard box that covers the rear/bottom, aluminum taped together and to the unit, ending with two 3"-ish take offs for hoses.
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Jul 18, 2021 21:53
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Motronic posted:I'm picturing a foamboard box that covers the rear/bottom, aluminum taped together and to the unit, ending with two 3"-ish take offs for hoses. What I have on hand is solid insulation boards and duck tape, but I might be able to wrangle something more appropriate. I'm also intending to do the same to the top loop so I don't have to have the (very loud) machine in the room while I sleep.
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Jul 18, 2021 22:02
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I pray it is way jankier looking.
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Jul 18, 2021 22:02
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H110Hawk posted:I pray it is way jankier looking. Oh it will be! Fortunately I only need it for a couple of weeks each year.
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Jul 18, 2021 22:03
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Jaded Burnout posted:Oh it will be! Thank you for your service to the thread.
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Jul 18, 2021 22:10
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Motronic posted:Thank you for your service to the thread. o7
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Jul 18, 2021 22:11
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm also intending to do the same to the top loop so I don't have to have the (very loud) machine in the room while I sleep. but muh TESP 
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Jul 18, 2021 23:07
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I've never seen an appliance with one of those weird "universal outlets" on it... what are you meant to plug into that disaster?
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Jul 19, 2021 03:13
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MRC48B posted:but muh TESP Yeah soz. devicenull posted:I've never seen an appliance with one of those weird "universal outlets" on it... what are you meant to plug into that disaster? That's not an outlet, it's a place to stow the plug once you've wrapped the cable around the lil horns next to it.
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Jul 19, 2021 08:44
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I've gotta just say, I'm really happy with my heat pump dryer. I've had it for two years now, a Samsung model, and it's really worked like a champ. Uses a tiny fraction of the power a resistive unit would, for me about 4.5-5 kwh a month total doing 2-3 loads a week. Only thing I have to do is occasionally clean the radiator fins, which I wish had been placed in a bit more accessible spot.
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Jul 19, 2021 13:41
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We're starting to reach out for quotes for a full HVAC replacement for our house (furnace, AC, ductwork). The furnace and AC are crossing the 15 year mark, and have had enough things start to go (next up is the draft inducer motor on the furnace making a fun grindy noise) - that it seems responsible to get them replaced on our own time, rather than in a panic because it is 100 degrees plus and everyone is scheduling a month out. So we're just starting to research, with the goal of getting it done in Oct/Nov, when we don't really have a need for heating or cooling (CA Bay Area). Planning on replacing all the ductwork in addition because rats once owned this house, and 50% of the insulation is stripped off them and a number were chewed straight through. We did our best to patch it up when we bought, but I just want it all replaced - I also shudder to think about how much rat poo poo is still in the ducts. I will say though, with the exception of changing the capacitor in the condenser, and troubleshooting the funny noise from the inducer motor, I only have a basic understanding of home HVAC, it is my major blindspot from a home construction/repair standpoint. Is there anything in particular I should be looking for, wary of, or other things I should be asking people as we get quotes? Our existing system is a Payne vertical down-flow, natural gas furnace (PG8JAA048090ADJA) in a closet in the middle of the house, ductwork in the crawlspace. 4 ton (I believe) AC unit (Payne pa13nr048) with a 40A feed. 1900 sqft house. Let me know if there is any other useful information I can provide. Just want to make sure I'm asking the right questions and not getting things I don't need. Thanks goons. ROJO fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Jul 20, 2021 |
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Jul 20, 2021 17:15
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Took forever and I had to deal with a lot more dust and fiberglass insulation than I wanted but finally sealed up those gaps in my supply register! Immediately afterwards found 5 leaks in the original tape further down, and I still can't get to the back but it's better than it was until I just replace everything. Only major leak is from the refrigerant line connection; does foil work there, too?  I also found one last leak when the fan is blowing in the furnace flue stack:  That's definitely not allowed to be taped, and probably needs to be replaced, right? PageMaster fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Jul 21, 2021 |
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Jul 20, 2021 23:57
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Last one is a carbon monoxide hazard and should be fixed ASAP. And yeah it needs to be replaced. That pipe probably heats up too much for tape.
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Jul 21, 2021 02:00
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Hi hvac thread! We're working on re-siding our house ourselves, and we're approaching the wall that our heat pump connects through. We got a quote from the same folks that installed it for a disconnect & reconnect and they want $3k, so I'm exploring the possibility of trying to work around it. Here's some pics of the installation:    Given that we have siding on top of siding, there's a few inches of clearance if we can get the old siding off without risking damage to the heat pump equipment, which is kinda why I think working around it should be feasible?
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Jul 21, 2021 03:07
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Bloody posted:Given that we have siding on top of siding, there's a few inches of clearance if we can get the old siding off without risking damage to the heat pump equipment, which is kinda why I think working around it should be feasible? The plastic rectangle on the siding is just lineset hide. You can pop the top of it off (splits in half) and then the back half screws into the wall sheathing. Inside are 2 hoses (wrapped in insulation), a condensate drain pipe, and an electrical cable. The hoses can be bent/moved a small amount if you're careful. This should allow you to take the screws out and take the lineset hide off the wall. You'll need to pre-cut the new siding to fit around the existing holes where the lineset penetrates the house, but it's totally doable if you take your time. If you're doing your own siding, this should be well within your capability.
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Jul 22, 2021 01:19
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We've gotten some heat pump quotes over the last few weeks to replace our upstairs system which is a 16 year old 2 ton Trane with R22. They're remarkably similar, for 14 SEER single stage plain jane replacements I was quoted $7750 for Lennox and $7500 for Carrier, both including air handler, new lineset, drain pan etc. I liked the carrier guy better and they're a smaller/more local company with stellar reviews so will probably just go with them. Am posting the pricing here because hard numbers can be useful, we're in Maryland which is a fairly high cost area. I did discover MR COOL does a 20 SEER inverter based DIY central heat pump system with air handler, but I'm nowhere near brave enough to mess with fabricating ducting etc and somehow hauling the air handler into our attic. $3300 shipped is a sweet deal though, perhaps someone here is mad enough to give it a try.. https://mrcool.com/mrcool-universal-series-dc-inverter-heat-pump-air-conditioner-split-system/ sanchez fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jul 22, 2021 |
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Jul 22, 2021 02:43
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My HVAC return is these two holes with there grilles screwed on top: Problem is the sizes are all odd ( like 31.5" one direction, 17" another, etc.) So I can't find replacements. There is a metal trim surrounding the hole so I figured maybe something slides in, but even those sizes are weird, too, so I'm stuck; do any big box retailers custom make registers?   
PageMaster fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Jul 22, 2021 |
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Jul 22, 2021 23:15
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PageMaster posted:My HVAC return is these two holes with there grilles screwed on top: Which stud bays are actually used as the return? What does it look like on the other side or where that connects to the air handler? You may not need that many grilles or that large. It only looks to be a 2x4 wall, so the bay is likely the restriction.
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Jul 23, 2021 00:39
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B-Nasty posted:Which stud bays are actually used as the return? What does it look like on the other side or where that connects to the air handler? From just putting a piece of paper over it, all of them (that's actually 7 bays across two holes). I'm not worried about optimal sizing as much as just not wanting to have to install drywall to make them fit "standard" size grilles; I want to just buy a grille that will cover the hole that's already there and keep crap out.
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Jul 23, 2021 04:23
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PageMaster posted:From just putting a piece of paper over it, all of them (that's actually 7 bays across two holes). I'm not worried about optimal sizing as much as just not wanting to have to install drywall to make them fit "standard" size grilles; I want to just buy a grille that will cover the hole that's already there and keep crap out. Drywall is a lot easier and cheaper than trying to get custom grille sizes made. You also don't have an unnecessarily large wall of grilles. I would find the largest common-size grilles you can, and patch/cut the wall further as necessary to make them fit. If you're that scared of drywall repairs, just strip and re-paint the old ones.
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Jul 23, 2021 14:37
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Actually I just checked and me contractor just measured the total size of the grille, not the actual hole on the wall. I did that and they are actually close to standard sizes (at least within half an inch) which DO look like I can buy. There are two types, the type that just sits on the wall, and the type that slides in and has a drop down cover:  Any reason to not just the the slide in? It let's me use a filter if needed in the future (furnace already has it's own filter bay so I wouldn't use one in the wall for now) and access into the wall without unscrewing anything when the kid inevitable slides cards back there
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Jul 24, 2021 01:02
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I have a couple of dumb questions: I have an 8mo old AC unit that quit cooling last night, no weird noises / smells / etc. The compressor doesn't attempt to start and the condenser fan doesn't attempt to spin even when given a push, but the system is still pumping air in and out. The model of it per the original invoice is GPH1460M41A, and the model on the unit is APH1460M41AB. Here is the documentation for the unit: https://www.goodmanmfg.com/pdfviewe...8.pdf?view=true I called the original installation company since it has a 10yr part / 2yr labor warranty and they will be here today (lol) to look at it, but would it make sense that the capacitor died? Would it be incredibly abnormal for it to die this early? The other thing I noticed is that my invoice says it is single stage cooling / two stage heating, but when I look at the spec sheet it says the GPH1460M41A* has a two stage compressor. Would this still refer to the heating, or is it two stage cooling? I see it also has a 5 speed fan, but I am guessing that is automatically controlled by the unit itself rather than input from the thermostat. This is how the Nest is wired now (I hate the nest). 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Jul 24, 2021 |
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Jul 24, 2021 19:33
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