|
CarForumPoster posted:A replacement regulator is $80 from rockauto but I figured this looked like a job where 3D printing might actually be much easier as I bet removing that window regulator is a bitch. Anyone attempted something similar? Any tips? Tip: Don't use PLA, it will melt in service.
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2021 03:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 16:05 |
|
|
ryanrs posted:Tip: Don't use PLA, it will melt in service. Oooh good point this is a black car in a hot place. And of course I only have PLA or PLA+Wood on the shelf. I kinda wonder if I can put a c-clip or an e-clip on it...somehow. It has a little shafty bit. I might be overthinking this for $80 and for the back window of a car thats worth $2K.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2021 03:21
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:Their main function is to keep brake dust off your wheels, so how important is that to you? What? No it isn't. It's to keep road debris out of your brakes. They're in the totally wrong position to keep brake dust off your wheels and absolutely do not do that. You can get away without them depending on how and where you drive, but calling them cosmetic is ridiculously wrong.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2021 03:40
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:Has anyone replaced the slider on a window regulator like the design below? My wifes 2010 insight window regulator popped out of the track that clamps the glass. It appears its a ball joint in a little white plastic follower, shown below in red. I can likely remove one bolt on the glass clamping part and slide in a new follower. Regulators aren't *that* bad to change, but be careful with the interior plastics when removing and be sure to use plenty of tape to keep the window glass held up while you work.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2021 04:21
|
|
|
The Fuzzy Hulk posted:Thank you! I will be working on this over the weekend and will follow up here with what I find. Also a possibility: the rear wheel cylinders are leaking brake fluid, which can make brake shoes very grabby and impossible to modulate.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2021 04:42
|
|
|
How much will having a coupe raise your insurance rates vs. having a sedan?
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2021 08:42
|
|
|
It depends on your city, state, zip code, insurance company, your driving record, the mood of the insurance company, and the phase of the moon. Also depends on what statements Elon Musk has made on Twitter in the past 15 minutes. Nobody except for your insurance company can tell you; even then, it depends on the specific car - they'll need, at the least, a make/model/trim level (they'll will want a VIN for the most accurate rate). I've personally found that rates for a coupe vs sedan aren't really much different, but that's in TX, and on compact/subcompact cars (all Hondas/Acuras). Moving between zip codes has affected my rates far more than the number of doors on the car. It's like that old myth that red cars double your insurance rates. My mother still swears by that; I've owned two red cars, and my rates were cheaper than the cars they replaced both times (one was white, one was black; both red cars were hatchbacks, so "3 door" by insurance standards). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:36 on Jul 22, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2021 11:31
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:A replacement regulator is $80 from rockauto but I figured this looked like a job where 3D printing might actually be much easier as I bet removing that window regulator is a bitch. Anyone attempted something similar? Any tips? Not much help specifically for your Insight but might give you an idea or two... Did a few for a GM. Dorman actually offers replacement bushings for those since the old ones are prone to cracking. The old style was a rectangular block that cracks, the Dorman replacement is a wheel. Bent a couple tabs on the end and they went in with some force. Easier to do when the new ones are sitting in hot water so they are more malleable to accept the pivot pin. Soooo, you might be able to adapt those for your use. They are a few bucks (for 5 cents worth plastic). Got them at either advance or AZ I think, where Dorman sells the rest of their oddball "help!" type poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2021 12:29
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
CarForumPoster posted:Has anyone replaced the slider on a window regulator like the design below? My wifes 2010 insight window regulator popped out of the track that clamps the glass. It appears its a ball joint in a little white plastic follower, shown below in red. I can likely remove one bolt on the glass clamping part and slide in a new follower. Doit. Nylon. Abs(meh). Petg. Annealed htpla. Machining a piece of uhmw would be perfect... STR posted:It depends on your city, state, zip code, insurance company, your driving record, the mood of the insurance company, and the phase of the moon. Also depends on what statements Elon Musk has made on Twitter in the past 15 minutes. Also credit score.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2021 16:46
|
|
|
NotNut posted:How much will having a coupe raise your insurance rates vs. having a sedan? I think my two door GTI ended up costing $50/6 months more than the quote I got for a four door (in 2007), but that may have also been down to different options and such (base vs moonroof).
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2021 17:57
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Did you test the new thermostat in a pot of water before you installed it? We have now installed one that passed this test first. This did fix the issues we were having burping the thing, but the truck still overheats almost immediately when driven. So lol, the thermostat was indeed DOA but that wasn't the greater problem. Fwiw, oil and coolant look pristine. It does actually go into open loop when it should, but I never get hot air out of the vents (forgot to fondle the heater hoses to confirm, will do next try)
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 01:03
|
|
|
Water pump could be kaput.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 01:37
|
|
|
How likely is that at 13 months old? Pretty sure I took months off my life changing that bastard on the road last June. We're thinking of trying to flush it with a hose tomorrow; is there a means of ruling out the head gasket without a shop? I see some compelling prices on pressure test kits..
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 02:22
|
|
|
I went from a 2007 Hyundai accent 2 door hatch to a 2007 4 door GTI and my insurance went down by a considerable amount. Even with the GTI having like double the horsepower of the Hyundai.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 02:32
|
|
|
Javid posted:How likely is that at 13 months old? If you bought a parts store junk rebuild or even new manufacturer: exceptionally likely. You know, just like your bad out of the box thermostat that is such a well known thing someone on the internet called it. Parts store crap is often shockingly bad and it only seems to be getting worse. I'm at the point where it's not worth my labor to gamble on it. I buy the real deal online or at least OEM.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 02:53
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I buy the real deal online or at least OEM. What you pay for in dollars is peanuts vs the cost in time. I do only OEM for stuff like this as well.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 04:13
|
|
|
Well, poo poo. That would suck less than a head gasket, at least. Is there a way to figure out the exact issue now that we've covered most of the common bases? Or is it time to limp to a shop and find out how hosed we are?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 04:15
|
|
|
Autozone will rent you a tester deal that you stick in the radiator opening - the liquid inside will change color if there's exhaust in the cooling system. You have to buy the liquid itself for like.. $10 or $20 I think, and IIRC there's like a $50 deposit for the tester that you get back when you bring it back.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 04:28
|
|
|
this is a stupid curiosity question, apologies if it's inappropriate: are BMW's/ZF's torque converter automatic transmissions, the ones they've been putting in like all their cars like the M240i, etc, really "as good as or better than" a real dual clutch (like of the sort VAG uses) when using paddles? I've heard people say they're as quick and precise to shift without any of the downsides or idiosyncracies of PDK but I don't believe it. If they're so much better then why would VAG, etc stick to using a complex, occasionally temperamental, relatively fragile system vs the relative bulletproof-ness of a torque converter? It's not like ZF wouldn't sell them a transmission if they wanted one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 04:47
|
|
|
I only drove a DSG for like two days when my car was in the shop over a decade ago, but I now have a 240 hp car with a ZF transmission. It seems like the DSG is better at rev matching and can shift slightly faster, especially when skipping gears. Day to day, I find the ZF the best automatic I've ever driven (ie I never, ever have to think about a delay when I step on the gas to pass in traffic), but it does sometimes hang for a second if I want to down shift a couple of gears and accelerate and I can trip it up if it's in auto mode and I go from hard braking to hard acceleration. I don't really paddle shift as there's 8 gears, so it's just tap tap tap with little tactile difference between the gears and its just a little abstract and boring (on the street). I still miss driving a manual, no matter what the advantages are. I'd guess VAG will keep using the DSG as a premium marquee option and because the drive train was originally designed for it and they don't wanna re-engineer for a different transmission. I also wonder if there is more drag loss with a torque converter.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 05:31
|
|
|
You car-understanding goons are so helpful. Who is up for a challenge? Long story short: Went on a road trip. Had shudder when braking (50 miles from home) Les Schwab said: rear brakes. I said: fix it. They said: LOL no. Not on Saturday. I kept driving to Colorado (1200 miles) and Firestone said ok. We will fix it. Car still had shudder. I called back. Firestone said: steering wheel = front brakes. Pedals = rear brakes. Shudder more in front. Came home. (1200 miles). Went to Firestone here who said : yeah you need front brakes. Also LOL we hosed your back brakes up. Lucky your family didnt die. We will fix it free (no poo poo) and fix your front ones. Took the car in. Went to pick it up and theres a knock you can feel under the passenger floorboard when braking. They said: must be defective rotor. Try again tomorrow. Replaced the rotor. Knocking continues. They said: must be axle joint (cv?). Try again tomorrow. Replaced axle shaft or whatever. Knocking continues. They said: must be bad caliper. Try again tomorrow. Replaced caliper. Knocking gone. (Yay) Drove to Costco and home knocking is back. Wtf, mate?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 07:33
|
|
|
otter posted:You car-understanding goons are so helpful. Who is up for a challenge? Sounds like they loosened something off and didn't tighten it back up.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 07:34
|
|
|
Okay, guess I'm diagnosing my aircon and would appreciate any advice folk had 2004 audi A4 b6 1.8t Aircon refuses to turn on full ice cold mode, stays in economy mode, not sure whether that actually runs the compressor or not yet No abnormal sounds from what I can tell, recently did coil packs and replacement of coolant pipe but it worked fine after that. Its been pressure checked each year at service but I don't think it's been topped up in the last 8 years- so I guess that's a high chance that's the issue? I was going to go out and test the relevant fuses/relays as my first port of call and then look at the stuff by the engine to see if there's any obvious problem then a buddy had told me to look into the pressure switch Anything else to look at? Can I just turn the accessory belt by hand safely?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 08:03
|
|
|
Ok Comboomer posted:this is a stupid curiosity question, apologies if it's inappropriate: are BMW's/ZF's torque converter automatic transmissions, the ones they've been putting in like all their cars like the M240i, etc, really "as good as or better than" a real dual clutch (like of the sort VAG uses) when using paddles? I've heard people say they're as quick and precise to shift without any of the downsides or idiosyncracies of PDK but I don't believe it. They're better if you are starting from a clean sheet, but they're not better if you have invested a ton of time effort and money in dual clutch transmissions. VW makes DSG gearboxes in Kassel at an internal plant that employs like 16,000 people and moving to other transmissions would be expensive. plus the really good zf transmission that everyone talks about, the 8HPXX, is longitudinal only and could maybe work on MLB, but VW uses DSG on FF MQB as well
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 13:24
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:They're better if you are starting from a clean sheet, but they're not better if you have invested a ton of time effort and money in dual clutch transmissions. VW makes DSG gearboxes in Kassel at an internal plant that employs like 16,000 people and moving to other transmissions would be expensive. makes sense, thanks so did KIA/Hyundai do a similar thing? Is that why they've got DSGs in all their crossovers now? Did they do it to distinguish themselves from all the brands using CUVs and 10-speeds?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 13:29
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Sounds like they loosened something off and didn't tighten it back up. My thought as well. Check all of your caliper and caliper bracket bolts. If you can get the car up in the air, give everything a good manhandling and see if anything moves around when it shouldn't be able to.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 15:09
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:My thought as well. Check all of your caliper and caliper bracket bolts. If you can get the car up in the air, give everything a good manhandling and see if anything moves around when it shouldn't be able to. They insisted that they checked everything for tightness 3x. The manager, the A-tech, and the original tech who worked on it. They were all stumped. I don't have the ability to take anything apart and diagnose it. What does one do at this point? They had my car for 4 days and still couldn't fix it correctly. Should I take it to another shop and have a second opinion? Can I send Firestone a bill for whatever it costs to fix it? Do I call Firestone Corporate and explain the issue I'm having?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 15:37
|
|
|
I was changing the 12v battery in the back of my Prius and ended up accidentally breaking the little sense lead wire in the battery harness. (Snapped the wire off right where it connects to the little white plastic clip.) The car powers up fine though I have a few extra dashboard lights on (battery and "exclamation point through car."). My understanding is that the sense lead has something to do with regulating voltage, but it's not a total disaster if it's disconnected? I'm in the middle of a road trip, how far can I drive like this?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 20:58
|
|
|
I don't know how critical it is but... ever crimped a wire before? Seems like something you could fix pretty quickly with parts available at any Walmart or Harbor Freight, let alone auto parts store.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 21:03
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I don't know how critical it is but... ever crimped a wire before? Seems like something you could fix pretty quickly with parts available at any Walmart or Harbor Freight, let alone auto parts store. I have not, but I am willing to try! I was also considering soldering it? (Something else I've never done) Drink-Mix Man fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Jul 23, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 21:06
|
|
|
If you've never done either, crimping is easier to do in general, and far easier to do in a parking lot / side of the road situation because you just need some hand-operated tools instead of a power source to heat an iron. The factory connection between the pin and wire would have been a crimp too. Got a photo of the damage and where the wire needs to connect?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 21:17
|
|
|
Seems like a nice, chunky alligator clip might be enough to solve the problem until it can be properly addressed at home
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 21:23
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:If you've never done either, crimping is easier to do in general, and far easier to do in a parking lot / side of the road situation because you just need some hand-operated tools instead of a power source to heat an iron. The factory connection between the pin and wire would have been a crimp too. Yeah, it just broke clean off at the very end. I used a paperclip to get the little metal part out of the plastic end.   Needs to connect to the thing on the left below 
Drink-Mix Man fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jul 23, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 21:39
|
|
|
Update: I managed to crimp a basic terminal on the end of that wire and got what seems to be a solution for now. And now I know how to crimp wire! Thanks a big one, goon sirs
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2021 22:40
|
|
|
Success story! That looks for all the world like a standard 1/4" female spade connector. Whatever connector you have on there will get you by for now (and, honestly, probably a lot longer) but if you want it to look like it did originally you can get an uninsulated version of the connector and put it back in the same terminal block you took it out of.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2021 00:56
|
|
|
Ja, you'd cut the connector off that you just installed; feed the white wire back through the Jones plug (taking care that you thread it through the back); crimp on a new spade connector, and pull the connector back into the jones plug housing. There. Now you're a pro.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2021 04:23
|
|
|
And just because no one else mentioned it: nothing in a car gets soldered except for the green circuit boards. The wiring is all crimped, no solder. Solder is weak and will cause wires to break in high vibration environments.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2021 04:38
|
|
|
ryanrs posted:And just because no one else mentioned it: nothing in a car gets soldered except for the green circuit boards. The wiring is all crimped, no solder. Solder is weak and will cause wires to break in high vibration environments. Solder is not at all weak, it's just that most people can't solder properly nor have the stuff to do it properly. There are plenty of soldered connection in a lot of high vibration and vehicle applications including: https://nepp.nasa.gov/docuploads/06AA01BA-FC7E-4094-AE829CE371A7B05D/NASA-STD-8739.3.pdf
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2021 05:09
|
|
|
Yes, it is acceptable to solder to turret terminals in your car, should you happen to find any. I think there's also another NASA guide for lacing your wiring harness.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2021 15:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 16:05 |
|
|
1999 Honda Civic. Car has sat for about 6 months, 6 year old battery in it was toast (wouldn't hold a charge after jumping it) so put a new battery in. Right now it reads 12.6V when sitting and 14.1V when the car is running. However, when I turn the headlights on, the interior lights start to dim, and when I turn stuff like the A/C and radio on, the engine starts to shutter a bit. Aren't those symptoms of something in the battery circuit not being right? I have no real experience diagnosing battery issues but I do have a multimeter if it makes sense to check other things.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2021 20:43
|
|
