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Don't think he was mentioned so I'll throw Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic out there. He's one of the OG mini painting YouTubers, his channel's been around for ages, and even back before he started making videos, he had a website with a ton of mini painting tips and tricks that I found to be super helpful and informative.Revelation 2-13 posted:It’s a tiny channel but sonic sledgehammer studios is great for new people, with no frills ‘get models on the table, that still look alright’-style painting. His genestealer cult kill team one was particularly helpful I thought, but several of his marine ones are good as well. His method is almost always something like base coat, drybrush, wash, some detail (optional ‘more detail’), which I found really useful to see when I was starting out painting after a long break. I'm subbed to the vast majority of channels mentioned so far, but I wanted to give an extra bit of hype to this channel. He's really good at showing how to get stuff done quickly and simply. And for anyone who's thinking of taking the plunge, he's started doing a few videos on 3D printing minis and recommending vendors and Patreons to get the 3D printable files from. Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 11:44 on Jul 22, 2021 |
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Jul 22, 2021 11:40
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Sonic Sledgehammer sound just like what I was looking for! I'm a YouTube junkie so I can spend to much time watching and not enough time doing. Good to have a straight to the point vid sometime. Has anyone ever subbed to Miniature Mentor? I was eyeballing this years ago when I was thinking about getting into painting minis, but never pulled the trigger.
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Jul 22, 2021 13:32
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
Use less paint and work faster. The more you hesitate on an edge highlight, the worse it's going to look. It's vastly better to put a little bit of paint on your brush, be unsatsified with the coverage, and have to do it a few more times, than it'll ever be to have a big scratchy highlight that goes all over. With enough practice you can do all but the biggest parts in one swipe.
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Jul 22, 2021 17:51
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It can also help if you use the edge of a long-bristled brush rather than the tip. The tip can waver and make little random splotches, but the edge will give you a consistent line because it doesn't move as much. You can't always get good angles for that, so having paint that's been thinned a bit also helps. You'll probably need multiple layers, but if you do make a mistake somewhere it'll be less visible because your mistakes probably won't be in the same place on each layer.
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Jul 22, 2021 18:06
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In addition to what's already been suggested try a 1:1 with Lahmian Medium instead of water when you thin your edge highlight paint. It helps with the application so you get to highlight entire panels before having to stop and reload your brush. Well, in my experience anyway. Also don't be afraid to go back over the jagged edge highlights with your original base coat to clean them up. I think that's a pro tip.
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Jul 22, 2021 18:30
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 You can also cheat and use the edge of a colored pencil if you seal it.
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Jul 22, 2021 18:35
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AndyElusive posted:Also don't be afraid to go back over the jagged edge highlights with your original base coat to clean them up. I think that's a pro tip. That was the plan actually. I'll look into thinner, I might have some, I've just been thinning it on the wet palette.
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Jul 22, 2021 19:57
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Just finished up with my 11th model the other day.  Quite pleased with the result, though I had to quickly undo some attempts to blend a lighter shade of blue on the upper armor, which was looking totally out of place. Also gotta learn basing at some point, though I think I'll do that after I have 1000 points or so painted.
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Jul 23, 2021 01:12
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PoptartsNinja posted:It can also help if you use the edge of a long-bristled brush rather than the tip. The tip can waver and make little random splotches, but the edge will give you a consistent line because it doesn't move as much. I found even with my 10/0 there just wasn't good angles/areas on this model for me to do that
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Jul 23, 2021 03:55
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Anyone have any resources on how to make reusable stencils for chapter insignias? I've been googling but found nothing.
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Jul 23, 2021 06:21
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I found even with my 10/0 there just wasn't good angles/areas on this model for me to do that
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Jul 23, 2021 07:46
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The Demilich posted:Anyone have any resources on how to make reusable stencils for chapter insignias? I've been googling but found nothing. Not to be snarky but to be snarky, why not print out the icon, then exacto out the shape and make your own stencil?
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Jul 23, 2021 13:37
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Not to be snarky but to be snarky, why not print out the icon, then exacto out the shape and make your own stencil? to be snarky: try it and see how much bleeding you get
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Jul 23, 2021 15:13
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Exacto and thin plastic or cardstock is probably the best option for anyone with access to what is normal hobby tools. If you have a 3d printer you could try designing one and printing it, or even designing a punch to use with cardstock. Access to a laser cutter would be even better.
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Jul 23, 2021 15:22
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Marine chapter logos are intricate as heck now, cutting one into a half-inch stencil is much harder than it sounds. You're better off printing decals, imo.
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Jul 23, 2021 15:46
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Jumping back on the YouTube channel recommendations for a sec, one I've been watching a bit lately is Obscurities in Miniature. It's not a mini painting tutorial channel, but more just a review/showcase for miniatures and often features discussion on how easy/hard they were to build (which is often both the most relaxing and frustrating part of the hobby).
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Jul 23, 2021 16:00
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moths posted:Marine chapter logos are intricate as heck now, cutting one into a half-inch stencil is much harder than it sounds. Gonna have to agree with this. Either that or pick a chapter where the icon is easily freehanded play carcharodons. There is also the copout choice of no chapter markings that I may be taking if I start these Marines after all, but that's not the fun choice, of course. Haven't figured out what to do for a chapter mark yet. Still deciding the color scheme for that matter. Incubi Darkness with the usual Dark Eldar style, red casings on the guns/chainswords, red/orange lenses... maybe ivory face plates and shoulder inserts as a contrast? Not sure. Got at least one idea for a character painting method that the ivory face plate would cause trouble with but that's a bridge to cross when I've actually started painting again. I guess the big issue is going to be how I deal with the nerve issues that have developed in both arms since the last time I painted. Cubital tunnel syndrome is no fun and I get the feeling any way of bracing my arms for painting will worsen it. Guess we'll see...
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Jul 23, 2021 16:04
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As I've gotten older, I've found that a lot of what I used to consider "cheats" are actually great time-savers and help compensate for my aging body and lack of free time. Decals, zenithal priming, leaning harder on the airbrush, no-paint basing materials, washes, pin washes, inks, and simply not painting eyes (wash them instead!) have all become go-to strategies for me and IMO my stuff has never looked better. It also makes painting go faster, and I can't stress enough how encouraging the momentum can be.
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Jul 23, 2021 16:17
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moths posted:As I've gotten older, I've found that a lot of what I used to consider "cheats" are actually great time-savers and help compensate for my aging body and lack of free time. Can definitely vouch for the various washes in particular making life easier once you embrace them. Never did care for decals much but the rest are great time savers. As far as not painting eyes - man, eyes that are really well done look great, but it's so rare to see it that most of the time heavy shading ends up looking better instead. It was an interesting realization after my first crazy-eyes sergeant when I tried just doing some heavy Nuln Oil.
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Jul 23, 2021 16:24
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Eyes are such a weird place since they communicate a LOT of expression but when they're just dark your brain goes "can't see that, gloss over it" instead of swan-diving into the uncanny valley when they're wrong.  I'm very proud of these heads - none have eyes, the stubble is extremely thinned dark blue, they've been washed with reikland, and the highlights are blended with the base color.
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Jul 23, 2021 16:42
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Spanish Manlove posted:to be snarky: try it and see how much bleeding you get That's fair. I didn't consider that.
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Jul 23, 2021 17:54
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moths posted:Marine chapter logos are intricate as heck now, cutting one into a half-inch stencil is much harder than it sounds. I figured they were wanting to do a custom chapter. If it's an official chapter, decals are certainly the way to go, or there are places that 3d print shoulder pads or chapter icons you can just glue on.
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Jul 23, 2021 18:32
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moths posted:Eyes are such a weird place since they communicate a LOT of expression but when they're just dark your brain goes "can't see that, gloss over it" instead of swan-diving into the uncanny valley when they're wrong. Agreed. And those are some drat good faces. What dark blue are you thinning down to paint the stubble?
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Jul 23, 2021 18:48
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I used P3 Coal Black, watered down to where it acted like a wash. The Reikland Flesh Wash knocks it into a more natural color, and then painting the lower lip makes the whole thing pop.
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Jul 23, 2021 19:00
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If I want to paint Orks, should I use Black or Green primer?
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Jul 23, 2021 21:43
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Yellow!
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Jul 23, 2021 21:49
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i’m really enjoying priming with ivory right now. since it seems like warmer colours cover worse than cooler colours, it’s much easier to get a nice strong red or yellow over ivory than it is over something greyscale (and especially black). and blues and greens will mostly cover completely opaquely over it. also gw contrasts are designed to look best over ivory, so that’s an added advantage
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Jul 23, 2021 22:00
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So, this is a bit embarassing but here goes: I have been painting miniatures for over a decade now, and I like to think I'm pretty good at it, and in that time I've never had to paint a space marine. That changed last week and ... I'm really bad at it. They look awful, and nothing I do seems to change that. Their armor is just a whole lot of big flat open real-estate. They don't seem to respond well to washes (it doesn't make them more detailed, it just seems to make them look dirtier), but standard highlighting makes them look really cartoony. And I know it's not the minis, I see nice-looking marines all the time, but all my usual techniques are just hitting a wall. How the gently caress do I make marines look good?
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Jul 23, 2021 22:53
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Nissin Cup Nudist posted:If I want to paint Orks, should I use Black or Green primer? You rarely want to use a colored primer as a color base coat, mainly because colored primers don’t always match paint pot colors and can be difficult to replicate. Unless you’re doing something very specific with the base colors, or intend to cover them pretty aggressively with different base coats, you’re better off going with something neutral that works with your color scheme. Black is a good candidate because everything goes with black and black in recesses or missed spots is difficult to notice, and unless you’re going for very bright final colors (yellows, pinks, white, etc) you can base over it fairly well in just 2-3 coats. Green can work as a primer, but I would recommend going over the green areas with a base color from a paint you have access to, this way you can always return to that color in case of a mistake. If you’re just gonna throw a wash on it and call it a day, go with green! It will save you a lot of time, but just understand that even color-matched primers rarely actually match the color they’re supposed to.
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Jul 23, 2021 22:58
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moths posted:Yellow! Yellow base + green wash = EZ mode orks. Although I'm sure Ivory + Ork Flesh contrast would work well too. I prime everything black and then zenithal spray white ink before painting, it lets me use standard paints and contrast paints for different effects.
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Jul 24, 2021 01:13
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Nissin Cup Nudist posted:If I want to paint Orks, should I use Black or Green primer? Rust brown automotive primer, it'll be a good base for everything you paint over it
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Jul 24, 2021 01:45
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people just using liquitex white acrylic ink?
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Jul 24, 2021 04:55
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I have failed in finding a way to make this drat Flesh Eaters chapter badge stencil. I found a bolter/chainsword page with the decal sheet and printed it, figuring as a last resort I could stiffen it with glue, then cut out the white space leaving me a stencil. The drat lines are way too fine. Not sure what I'm going to do. The whole point of having a stencil was so I could avoid the colors of the decal.
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Jul 24, 2021 06:01
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The Demilich posted:I have failed in finding a way to make this drat Flesh Eaters chapter badge stencil. I found a bolter/chainsword page with the decal sheet and printed it, figuring as a last resort I could stiffen it with glue, then cut out the white space leaving me a stencil. Maybe have custom decals made? If you can find a version of the badge that has been vectorized somewhere it should be pretty easy to remove the color and scale it down.
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Jul 24, 2021 06:08
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Waterslide decal paper is pretty cheap
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Jul 24, 2021 06:35
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SurreptitiousMuffin posted:So, this is a bit embarassing but here goes: I'm not sure about the cartoony part, usually I go for pretty clear highlights and that might not be what you want. Recently I've had the most luck just applying my wash/panel lines directly to the recesses I want rather than trying to do a all-surface wash like I would a metallic Also drybrushing can work if you're careful
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Jul 24, 2021 06:35
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punishedkissinger posted:people just using liquitex white acrylic ink?
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Jul 24, 2021 07:52
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punishedkissinger posted:people just using liquitex white acrylic ink? Most white inks work as zenithal over black primer, but I think liquitex is the most popular. Unlike almost any other white paint, white inks just fly through the airbrush, even un-thinned - though thinning them is very possible because they’re basically pure pigment. I haven’t tried the white, but golden’s high flow acrylics are really similar to inks and I like then a lot as it’s both easy to use in airbrush and normal brush and they look really similar regardless of application. At least the ones I’ve used.
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Jul 24, 2021 08:47
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punishedkissinger posted:people just using liquitex white acrylic ink? Every airbrush should come with a bottle welded to the side and every airbrush white primer anyone buys should be empty save for a short insulting note asking why you didn't buy liquitex white ink instead. That note would absolutely have been worth $7 to me.
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Jul 24, 2021 16:04
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thanks! ive been basing with mr finishing surfacer 1500 black and then just using white vallejo air color to zenithal. the surfacer gunks up my brush so bad though
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Jul 24, 2021 16:54
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