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Oak is open-pored and rough like that, there's lots of harder things (like maple, or all the super-fancy exotic woods they make veneers out of) that do big smooth ribbons too if this is for a game controller I'd hunt around for some rainbow poplar which aside from being cheap and easy to work with looks incredibly rad in ways you'll never get oak to be. Lots of big box stores toss it in with the regular boards
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Jul 23, 2021 20:26
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signalnoise posted:My planing definitely needs work, as does my sharpening.
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Jul 23, 2021 22:52
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Imbroglio posted:Any chance you aren't lubricating your plane sole? It took me way too long to figure that out and it made a huge difference. I'm still kinda poo poo at sharpening, but my planes are way less frustrating. Do you use a guide? I freehand my chisels but I still use an eclipse-style guide for plane irons because they're harder for me to keep an angle.
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Jul 23, 2021 23:22
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Imbroglio posted:Any chance you aren't lubricating your plane sole? It took me way too long to figure that out and it made a huge difference. I'm still kinda poo poo at sharpening, but my planes are way less frustrating. I use Japanese style wooden block planes, so I'm not sure if it matters for that but I would be surprised. I wouldn't doubt I need to work on it more than I have though.
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Jul 23, 2021 23:43
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signalnoise posted:I use Japanese style wooden block planes, so I'm not sure if it matters for that but I would be surprised. I wouldn't doubt I need to work on it more than I have though. Use (preferably hard) wax on those, beeswax or paraffin rubbed on. A pastewax if that's all you've got. Mostly it's about if the wood sole is in good shape and the blade edge is also in good shape and sharp with wood planes but running them over rough hard wood can rough them up and then you need to clean them up yourself to keep everything smooth.
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Jul 24, 2021 00:57
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The junk collector posted:Use (preferably hard) wax on those, beeswax or paraffin rubbed on. A pastewax if that's all you've got. Mostly it's about if the wood sole is in good shape and the blade edge is also in good shape and sharp with wood planes but running them over rough hard wood can rough them up and then you need to clean them up yourself to keep everything smooth. Ahhhh, a wax, that makes sense. I had only been thinking in terms of oil. I had what may or may not be an epiphany and I am posting to see if I am crazy here.  On the left, I'm showing basically I want to take a box have a front bevel. On the right, I show that bevel cut out of the box, using a red line to indicate where the bevel starts from the top. Here, a panel covers the front, and that attaches to a panel that is the bevel, which then connects to the top. I am thinking that basically, the place where the bevel connects to the top would have an angled face where that angle of that face plus the angle of the board connecting to its square face = 90 degrees, as they are inverse angles. A = A and B = B for both sets of angles shown on the right side. If that works, then that means I can use a single board that is the length necessary to cover those two boards and then make a single angled cut through it, assuming I have a way to keep the cut straight. I might not be able to do that by hand. I am not good at trigonometry or whatever but I feel like I've absentmindedly just stumbled into something every woodworker knows.
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Jul 25, 2021 02:37
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Weird question, but does anyone else just up and forget to use a tool? Maybe age or becoming a dad(no sleep). Yesterday morning I was fitting some tenons, they were sized close off the power tools but one side needed brought down and the corners rounded. I reached up and grabbed a chisel off the wall, which hangs right next to my favorite hand-tool and right tool for the job, the router plane, then proceeded to take way too long to do it by chisel, only realizing my brain not work good later that day when I was driving to a birthday party and reminiscing about the whole thing.
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Jul 25, 2021 15:28
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I've done something like that before
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Jul 25, 2021 16:43
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Done that plenty of times. Why use the rabbeting plane I made, when I could slowly and painfully chisel a rabbet instead?  Got lucky at a nearby flea market last week:      There were almost no chisels around, weirdly, but there were an absurd number of wooden hand planes that I couldn't be assed to repair, or figure out how to sharpen in the case of shaping planes. I'm still pissed at myself for not going back for the frame saw I found, though. Suntan Boy fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 17:15
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I got some Boeshield T-9 for my table saw top. Is there a recommended way to get it all up in the miter slots? Should I spray a bunch in there and run the miter gauge through it a few times to spread it without absorbing, before running paper towels through?
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Jul 25, 2021 18:54
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bobua posted:Weird question, but does anyone else just up and forget to use a tool? Maybe age or becoming a dad(no sleep). i don't generally forget it's an option but I will without fail spend an hour improvising some bullshit workaround using whatever tools are within arm's reach rather than take five minutes to go upstairs and retrieve the proper tool for the job
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Jul 25, 2021 23:47
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Mr Executive posted:I got some Boeshield T-9 for my table saw top. Is there a recommended way to get it all up in the miter slots? Should I spray a bunch in there and run the miter gauge through it a few times to spread it without absorbing, before running paper towels through? T9 isn't just wax in a solvent, it's made to penetrate into steel and aluminium. Spraying it and walking away should be fine.
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Jul 26, 2021 00:26
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Suntan Boy posted:Done that plenty of times. Why use the rabbeting plane I made, when I could slowly and painfully chisel a rabbet instead?
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Jul 26, 2021 01:16
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From my shed thread, hewed another log, now I have made three which is what I needed. I was finally starting to get the technique and skill down and now I am done hewing. I need to find some more projects in the future... Also I improvised this tool from parts of two combi squares as a caliper for logs: 
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Jul 26, 2021 06:44
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So I bought some vintage Stanley planes - a #5 and what I later found out is a Bedrock #7. I say a 7 not 607 because on dating the bedrock I discovered it's an 1898-1899 model! They didn't switch to the 600 series until 1900. Anyways, they've been restored pretty well but the blade irons are unsurprisingly not in great shape. I thought I'd try Scary Sharp to start and got some of the PSA 3M sheets. I'm very new to sharpening and I started with the sheets, flattening the back of one of the plane irons. I think because they needed so much grinding that I think I wore down the sheets very quickly - probably too much pressure being applied too. Anyways, when I realized that wasn't working and needed to take material off faster I double sided taped an 80 grit orbit sander sheet down and got a lot more material off with that and also was using it to redo the primary bevel at 25 degrees. Then I set up some new sheets of the 3M and tried that. Then I tried to add a microbevel at 30 degrees and at the end, it's not very sharp. I still have another plane iron to do the initial work on, so I'm worried that the 3M strategy is not gonna help me get to a place where it seems most applicable, which is a blade in decent shape already that's ready to be honed. So now I'm considering just jumping to the next level and getting diamond stones, roughly following Paul Seller's advice. The thing is, I have no idea which ones to buy. I'd like to get them relatively quickly and DMT is recommended but I can't figure out where to buy them. The Dia-Sharps on DMT's site are about $82 each. Amazon also claims to have them, but they're about $50 and I see a lot of reviews saying that the quality control seems way off, sometimes even arriving looking used - so what's the deal? Is this DMT having two tracks of quality - lovely ones go to Amazon, good ones are sold for higher prices elsewhere, or are they knockoffs? The seemingly best option I've found so far is on Sharpening Supplies - https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/...GxoCwKsQAvD_BwE They sell the individual stones for ~ $80 and have a set of 4 for $200. And they're in Wisconsin which is close to me so not having Prime shipping shouldn't be too much of a problem. Does this seem reasonable? The other attractive thing about this set is they include an extra coarse which I'm thinking would be useful for getting these rough plane irons in shape and setting an initial bevel, and then the other 3 will be used often for those and chisels that aren't so beat up to start long term.
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Jul 26, 2021 16:53
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I've never used diamond stones, I use water stones because I'm cheap and didn't want to figure out which and where to get non rip-off diamonds. But I don't and won't get coarse stones because I use coarse sandpaper for initial bevel and shaping. You should only have to do it once so no point in getting fancy. Save your money for the stones you'll use all the time - at least that's my opinion.
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Jul 26, 2021 17:06
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I love diamond stones but ya they are pricey. Amazon sells hundreds of billions of dollars in counterfeit goods every year, so that wouldn't be surprising. My FIL gave us a coarse one of his, and I picked up a new extra-fine (I think) from lee valley, but I've seen them for sale at all of the typical woodworking retailers. Stultus Maximus posted:I've never used diamond stones, I use water stones because I'm cheap and didn't want to figure out which and where to get non rip-off diamonds. But I don't and won't get coarse stones because I use coarse sandpaper for initial bevel and shaping. You should only have to do it once so no point in getting fancy. Save your money for the stones you'll use all the time - at least that's my opinion. Enderzero posted:The seemingly best option I've found so far is on Sharpening Supplies - https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/...GxoCwKsQAvD_BwE
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Jul 26, 2021 17:30
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Bloody posted:This seems like a great pay once cry once deal I've seen this around an am reasonably sure, but this is a good thing, right? As In just pay the proper cost and cry about that spent cash once rather than laddering up to the proper tool over time and crying multiple times? One other reason I thought this set looks good is that Sellers mentioned that the grit increases over time - so the 300 grit ends up a hundred or two higher. I figure the extra coarse might be useful because then it will raise up in grit and slot solidly in around the 300 range over time.
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Jul 26, 2021 17:35
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I got my DMT ones from Lee Valley a few years ago but the price certainly seems to have gone way up. I think I paid about $60 Canadian each but now they are listed as starting at $95 Also with that Sharpening Supplies pack, is it cheaper to buy a 3 set? I got the 220x, 600x and 1200x grit ones (Extra coarse, coarse and fine). Those 3 plus stropping got my stuff insanely sharp. I don't think there's much need for an extra fine. I see lee valley also has an extra extra coarse 120x but your tool would have to be pretty darn beat up to bother with it I think. The diamond plates are pretty aggressive as is.
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Jul 26, 2021 17:44
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Enderzero posted:So I bought some vintage Stanley planes - a #5 and what I later found out is a Bedrock #7. I say a 7 not 607 because on dating the bedrock I discovered it's an 1898-1899 model! They didn't switch to the 600 series until 1900. Anyways, they've been restored pretty well but the blade irons are unsurprisingly not in great shape. I thought I'd try Scary Sharp to start and got some of the PSA 3M sheets. The DMTs are nice and that is what I use. I have coarse, fine and x-fine. I almost never use the coarse, reason being I use a bench grinder to grind my irons and establish the primary bevel. If I were you i would evaluate how much rough sandpaper you could buy in replacement of the coarse and x-coarse stones for doing the initial flattening if it works for you. That being said, the x-fine is still somewhat rough for a final polish, a lot of people use a super fine water stone as a last step. I use the 3u and 1u diamond paste https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-Dia-Paste-Diamond-Compound-P249C24.aspx as final steps after the x-fine. You rub some on a piece of MDF of metal and go to town. I use a metal plate, but used to use MDF no problem, and it seems to last a long time as it gets embedded in the plate. I'm still on my initial tubes of the stuff after 5 years.
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Jul 26, 2021 17:47
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Enderzero posted:I've seen this around an am reasonably sure, but this is a good thing, right? As In just pay the proper cost and cry about that spent cash once rather than laddering up to the proper tool over time and crying multiple times? Yes, plus cheaper tools not working properly and giving you trouble as you use them. Like, maybe that cheap square isn't actually 90°, so your work comes out wrong.
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Jul 26, 2021 17:49
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I got my DMT stones form Amazon, and if they're fake or lesser quality I can't tell. They make my steel sharp. But yeah for initial flattening and shaping of the bevel use some 80, even a coarse diamond stone is relatively fine.
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Jul 26, 2021 18:03
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I bought a 600/1200 diamond plate from lee valley and it does good work for me.
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Jul 26, 2021 18:17
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People who use Scary Sharp, do you wind up buying three planes of glass so that you get multiple uses out of each film instead of use-once peel-off?
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Jul 26, 2021 19:02
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Squibbles posted:I got my DMT ones from Lee Valley a few years ago but the price certainly seems to have gone way up. I think I paid about $60 Canadian each but now they are listed as starting at $95 I think we’re in the same page but your terms are off slightly from what I’m seeing. On that site 600 is fine, and 1200 is extra fine. Otherwise it looks like you have the Sellers progression but with extra coarse (220) instead of coarse that he recommends (325) and it’s probably close enough? They only have the set of 4, not 3 unfortunately. And getting 3 comes out to $190 (the 4 set shows list price of $82 for each, but the actual price is $63) vs 4 for $200 so it seems like a good deal. Considering doing that and then some 80 grit sandpaper as recommended by someone else for the initial restoring of the blades and I think I’m set? Does what sandpaper I get matter? Advice on other forums is always very terse like “get some 80 grit sandpaper and do the thing” - am I getting a roll? Sheets? Anything wrong with just using some of the orbit sander round sheets I have? Finally, do I need a cheap strop or just mdf - and then of those compounds listed? I have a block of green compound in a Dremel kit - good enough or if there a much better option? Thanks for the advice y’all.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:06
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Arsenic Lupin posted:People who use Scary Sharp, do you wind up buying three planes of glass so that you get multiple uses out of each film instead of use-once peel-off? That's definitely the way to do it. I started with the scary sharp setup from Taytools; you can even use both sides of the glass at once for 6 grits. Wet sandpaper can get an incredibly polished finish, much fine than diamond stones alone (but stropping will get there too).
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Jul 26, 2021 19:13
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I like the diamond stone/water stone combo. 80 grit for super rough. diamond stone for rough Water stone for fine - this is a great combo stone but with the diamond stone you'll likely never use the 1000 side: https://www.amazon.com/KDS-Combinat...7324261&sr=8-37 and finally strop if you feel you need it. I also bought a cheap granite surface plate that's 9x12 which I use for sand paper and leveling the water stones. There are lots of ways to get to where you need to be with sharpness. I like how the blades come out after the 6000 side of the water stone and rarely strop.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:36
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I've got 300-16000 diamond and water stones(diamond only up to like 1000 i think), the veritas jig, and a tormek. I'm convinced that 95% of a great edge in woodworking is the stropping. tormek is amazing for kitchen knives, changing bevels, and repair, but I'd never spend the money on a range of stones again.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:44
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bobua posted:
If you want a really great finish off a stone, a hard black Arkansas oilstone is the best I’ve found for a final polish. It’s 95% of what stropping/buffing with green compound gets you and doesn’t round over any edges.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:52
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I have a tile plate with 80, 120, and 220 grit sandpaper for initial bevel or repairing bad nicks (and a bench grinder for worst case). I have combo 250/1000 and 800/4000 waterstones plus a strop for daily maintenance. Once the waterstones are shot I'll probably replace them with diamond.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:55
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Enderzero posted:I think we’re in the same page but your terms are off slightly from what I’m seeing. On that site 600 is fine, and 1200 is extra fine. Otherwise it looks like you have the Sellers progression but with extra coarse (220) instead of coarse that he recommends (325) and it’s probably close enough? Ah yeah I messed up a bit. I was going off of lee valley's page https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/sharpening/stones/67660-dmt-diasharp-stones I didn't realize they insert "coarse 325x" in there, I guess that's another option but only available in the 4x10" size. I have the ones Sellers suggests (220, 600, 1200). if you use sandpaper I think it's recommended to get the wet/dry stuff. You want to be able to wash out the metal shavings to keep it from clogging up and the regular paper will just fall apart when you get it wet.
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Jul 26, 2021 20:11
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Stultus Maximus posted:I have a tile plate with 80, 120, and 220 grit sandpaper for initial bevel or repairing bad nicks (and a bench grinder for worst case). Can you give me some more details about the sandpaper? There's such a range, I have a hard time figuring out what to look for - a roll of it? How do you attach it? And so on. Squibbles posted:Ah yeah I messed up a bit. I was going off of lee valley's page https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/sharpening/stones/67660-dmt-diasharp-stones No worries, just wanted to make sure I got it correct! Good call on the sandpaper choice.
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Jul 26, 2021 20:18
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Is there a thread approved tracksaw? I'm going to be doing a few closet built-ins soon and my table saw isn't really set up for working with bigger pieces of plywood anymore. I've been eyeing the Makita, seems like I could get it plus the tracks I want for about the price of the Festool. But will I regret this decision?
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Jul 26, 2021 20:33
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As I understand it the makita track saw is the good one and is compatible with the festool tracks which may also be the good ones?
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Jul 26, 2021 20:41
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That morticing gauge is super cool. Right? Never seen one like it before. I'm going to have to keep an eye out for that guy in the future.
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Jul 27, 2021 08:11
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Suntan Boy posted:Right? Never seen one like it before. I'm going to have to keep an eye out for that guy in the future.
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Jul 27, 2021 18:04
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Hi guys, I bought a large bar table to go against the back of my couch. Its very big, 130" long x 20" wide x 36" high. It came with steel legs which is where I have a problem. They placed the leg holes a good 2 feet in from the edges, and added a third leg in the middle. With this awkward spacing I only have room for one chair on each side in between the legs. I'm wondering if I can safely change this configuration around. Ideally, have the legs maybe one foot in from the sides and run a steel square bar along the underside instead of the leg smack in the middle. I am not a handyman and the wood was expensive so I wanted to ask you guys if something like that could work?
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Jul 27, 2021 18:28
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You can use the Sagulator to check the deflection of the top across the unsupported span. If that looks good to you then go for it.
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Jul 27, 2021 18:31
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FateFree posted:Hi guys, I bought a large bar table to go against the back of my couch. Its very big, 130" long x 20" wide x 36" high. It came with steel legs which is where I have a problem. They placed the leg holes a good 2 feet in from the edges, and added a third leg in the middle. With this awkward spacing I only have room for one chair on each side in between the legs. How thick is it? If it's 8/4, you can probably move the outer legs in more and eliminate the middle one. But a stiffener like you mention would be long term beneficial.
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Jul 27, 2021 18:48
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Mr. Mambold posted:How thick is it? If it's 8/4, you can probably move the outer legs in more and eliminate the middle one. But a stiffener like you mention would be long term beneficial. Yes it is 2 inches thick and made of Walnut. Does the stiffener have to bolt into the legs to work? Maybe it will stop them from potentially wobbling.. Is this a steel square beam I can buy at home depot or something?
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Jul 27, 2021 18:52
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