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I kind of like the brake screaming, covers up the sounds of my screaming you know? Thanks for the advice all, I’ll pop over to the bike shop tomorrow and probably spend some money.
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Jul 26, 2021 01:54
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| # ? May 25, 2024 01:30 |
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We didn't mention it but bigger rotors might just give you what you want.
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Jul 26, 2021 03:20
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And it does sound like your rear needs a new bleed, they should lock before hitting the bars.
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Jul 26, 2021 03:25
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I have a 1992 Nishiki Ariel that I picked up to whip around forest roads and maybe other trails if my skills progress. How am I supposed to mount a second bottle cage on this? The mounting holes (I think they're for the bottle cage at least. they're the correct spacing and size) are on the inner part of the chain stay. There isn't room to fit an entire cage here unless the cage were to have the mating mounting holes on the bottom of the bottle, not the side.   I don't know why Nishiki would place the mount here, but I think the earlier Nishiki raised chainstay models had issues with the seat tube cracking, so maybe they avoided it in the later 1992 model to be careful. Weird mutant looking bike 
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Jul 26, 2021 17:46
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I got into the sport about 5 weeks ago but just found this thread, so here's my intro! My 5 year old learned to ride his bike without training wheels a couple months ago, and I ended up taking him to Ruby Hill in Denver on recommendation from a neighbor. I had a 30 year old Giant hardtail that I brought, and while he did the little pump track, I ended up falling in love with the downhill beginner stuff and trail there. Since the market is still mostly hosed, I ended up finding a 2015 Trek Fuel EX 9.8. A kid got it for graduation then went to college and never rode it. It only has 120mm front and back but that's worked for me so far on the stuff I'm tackling. Only thing was I hit Trestle last week and some of the rutty stuff really shook me around, but I think that more needs tuning of the sag/rebound settings on the suspension more than I need a better suspension. I'm having tons of fun! Shock pump comes tomorrow so I can tune the suspension more. Pic is from one of my first trips to Lair o the Bear near Morrison. I have since swapped the pedals from the ones the kid threw on there so he could keep his nice ones lol.
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Jul 26, 2021 17:47
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Riven posted:I got into the sport about 5 weeks ago but just found this thread, so here's my intro! It looks like you can put a new air shaft in your fork and up it to 130 or 140mm of travel. It will raise the BB and slacken the bike .5-1 degree. Might be difficult to find an airshaft that will work though. It is a cheap swap though. Lots of Denver riders here if you want to meet up sometime.
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Jul 26, 2021 18:40
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Love that trail. Unfortunately, so does everyone else in Denver!
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Jul 26, 2021 18:42
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kreeningsons posted:I have a 1992 Nishiki Ariel that I picked up to whip around forest roads and maybe other trails if my skills progress. You could try a wolf tooth b-rad rail to move the top cage up higher. Then you might be able to get a side load cage with a small bottle in.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:10
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Anyone ridden much near Telluride? Looking for one bigger day and one shorter day.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:13
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Haven’t ridden it, but I’ve heard this loop is very difficult and very good.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:20
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spwrozek posted:It looks like you can put a new air shaft in your fork and up it to 130 or 140mm of travel. It will raise the BB and slacken the bike .5-1 degree. Might be difficult to find an airshaft that will work though. It is a cheap swap though. Current lead time on airshafts from fox: 'bro no idea, we've got none and no idea if more are gonna show up. Call back in 6wks if you're still looking.' Related, if anyone has a 150 airspring for a 34rhythm 27.5 I'd love to take it off your hands.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:53
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:Current lead time on airshafts from fox: 'bro no idea, we've got none and no idea if more are gonna show up. Call back in 6wks if you're still looking.' i can probably find you a gently used 140 airspring off a 34 rhythm 29 lol
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Jul 26, 2021 20:44
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kimbo305 posted:A lockout would no longer work with the damper's seals that destroyed, right? What happened was the cartridge tube unscrewed from the topcap. What seems to have happened next is that additional fork compressions caused the rebound assembly to suck the cartridge tube farther down into the stanchion, exposing the compression assembly. I think I probably lost all damping when the IFP seal popped over the top of the tube, allowing damper oil out and air in and causing the whole compression assembly to exit the tube. Goodbye lockout etc. At that point the airspring still worked so I just had a single unit of rebound assembly + cartridge tube traveling in sync with the lowers and bouncing off the bottom of the compression piston, shattering it.  the only field fix I can think of to avoid damage would involve either limping it home on paved roads and avoiding fork compression at all costs (this worked the first time) or: 1. unscrew the topcap with a 19mm socket 2. remove the topcap and compression assembly 3. unscrew the rebound assembly from the lower and remove it (10mm? socket), including the cartridge tube. this step involves a hammer. 4. extend the damper shaft fully 5. insert the compression assembly into the cartridge tube 6. screw the tube into the topshaft as tight as you can 7. reinsert the damper into the fork 8. look around for the rebound crush washer you dropped in the grass 9. tighten the rebound nut and topcap 10. wonder what the air + oil mixture is doing inside your fork as you hammer home down washboard roads when you get home do all these things again, but fill it up with the appropriate damper oil instead of air, and if the fork is gonna get replaced in a few years put RED loctite on the loving cartridge tube threads (i used blue 2 years ago and that clearly wasn't enough) fake edit: now that I think about it my buddy was limiting his dropper travel using wraps of electrical tape. I bet on a fork you'd destroy your dust seals but those are cheap and it might be enough to protect the internals if you do both stanchions and baby it.
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Jul 26, 2021 21:24
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If it fits I'll take it haha, let me see how similar the lengths are between chassis. A friend blew up his grip compression damper on an endurance race, but I think he had the damper turned up and a sudden impact cracked the compression piston because there's no blowoff circuits, it looks like it just turns down oil flow passages to zero as you turn it up.
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Jul 26, 2021 22:42
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:If it fits I'll take it haha, let me see how similar the lengths are between chassis. The one he's talking about is pictured a few posts up the thread. 
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Jul 27, 2021 00:10
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Got my bike back after a rear bleed and new pads. Apparently the OEM resin pads were basically completely gone so I upgraded to some metal ones. Feels much better, will take it out for a trail test tomorrow.
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Jul 27, 2021 00:37
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He broke the damper assembly so the airshaft is probably fine.
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Jul 27, 2021 01:26
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numptyboy posted:Did the first brakes come with organic pads - that might account for the lack of the initial bite. Both brakes have metallic pads. I know that alot of people hate on sram brakes, but ive been really happy with the Level T, so i figured that the Guide T would be okay too.
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Jul 27, 2021 02:23
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:He broke the damper assembly so the airshaft is probably fine. yep! only five and a half seasons and a few thousand miles on it. raced regularly, oil changed at least once. however it looks like you might be able to get a new 150mm through amazon, 3 left in stock: https://www.amazon.com/Fox-Racing-Shox-Air-Shaft/dp/B07YYPNGDK
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Jul 27, 2021 03:11
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 That's a 34 float not the rhythm, I already made that mistake once 
meowmeowmeowmeow fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Jul 27, 2021 |
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Jul 27, 2021 04:42
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Dang. While we're at it looks like I misremembered my model designation and it won't work for you either. Good luck, friend, hopefully we both have bikes again soon.
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Jul 27, 2021 05:29
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Ty ty, luckily I still have a working fork I just want to play around with the travel
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Jul 27, 2021 05:38
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Anyone have a recommendation for a nice set of cranks that would be an upgrade from my boat anchor deore cranks? I’d like something with lots of cross compatibility so I can take them with me to future bikes. Maybe carbon?
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Jul 27, 2021 18:58
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Torbo posted:Both brakes have metallic pads. I know that alot of people hate on sram brakes, but ive been really happy with the Level T, so i figured that the Guide T would be okay too. Yeah, ive run code rs for the last 3 years - never had an issue nor noted anything negative moving from deore XT(apart from dealing with dot fluid).
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Jul 27, 2021 19:05
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n8r posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a nice set of cranks that would be an upgrade from my boat anchor deore cranks? I’d like something with lots of cross compatibility so I can take them with me to future bikes. Maybe carbon? eewings?  do you have a spindle diameter you want to stick to or is any good?
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Jul 27, 2021 19:55
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n8r posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a nice set of cranks that would be an upgrade from my boat anchor deore cranks? I’d like something with lots of cross compatibility so I can take them with me to future bikes. Maybe carbon? SLX cranks would save you 150g over Deore and a lot of money over carbon.
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Jul 27, 2021 21:15
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If you do want carbon, I’d probably try to find a used RaceFace one.
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Jul 27, 2021 22:11
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I gave tuning my shocks a first go. I pressed on the valve for the fork to let some air out and my thumb got immediately covered in blue grease. Did I just gently caress it up? Also all the Fox instructions reference and O ring and there is none, so end of the day I guess it’s gonna be a 2 person job. Riven fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jul 28, 2021 |
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Jul 28, 2021 00:13
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Not sure if you hosed up but grease coming out of your air spring is Not Normal. How old is your suspension?
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Jul 28, 2021 01:12
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2015. I’m the second owner. Bike hasn’t been ridden much by the first owner. But maybe I’ll just take it in for a service to be safe.
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Jul 28, 2021 03:09
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Riven posted:I gave tuning my shocks a first go. I pressed on the valve for the fork to let some air out and my thumb got immediately covered in blue grease. Did I just gently caress it up? That's not grease but rather fox float fluid, it's normal for that to be inside the air spring and it's not uncommon for it to be up around the valve and to come out when you let air out. If you have a fork that predates volume spacers (not uncommon for 2015), it was common practice to use extra fox float fluid to decrease the air volume in the spring. You didn't gently caress anything up! I assume by 'tuning' the fork you meant you were opening the damper and adjusting the shim stack? How did that go?
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Jul 28, 2021 03:24
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Nope literally just adjusting the air pressure/sag. There’s no measurement O-ring so I had to completely guess on the sag. Need to recruit my wife to help really. The guide for the rear is especially hard to understand because it’s a 120mm shock and the Fox instructions just reference many mm measurements that are all way less than 120. https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=522 This goes from 25 to 76 and I have no idea which mine is. Putting in the 4 digit code just got me a generic video on sag. Whereas the manual for the fork was awesome and comprehensive. But thank you for making me feel better about what I did lol. Good to know I didn’t break it.
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Jul 28, 2021 03:39
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Riven posted:Nope literally just adjusting the air pressure. There’s no measurement O-ring so I had to completely guess on the sag. Need to recruit my wife to help really. The guide for the rear is especially hard to understand because it’s a 120mm shock and the Fox instructions just reference many mm measurements that are all way less than 120. https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=522 This goes from 25 to 76 and I have no idea which mine is. Putting in the 4 digit code just got me a generic video on sag. Whereas the manual for the fork was awesome and comprehensive. Oh, just take a zip tie and somewhat loosely tie it around the stanchion and use that instead of the o-ring (be very careful removing the zip tie after). Butcher's twine also works for this. The other option for sag is to set your phone up somewhere so it's looking at your bike from the side, leaned up against a wall, and then set it to record video, get on the bike in attack position, and then get off and stop the video and look at how much it's all compressing by pausing the video and if you need to, sending yourself the images to your PC so you can use a ruler tool in PS to see how much compression you're getting. Measure basically the full length of the exposed stanchion and aim for 25% of that to be sag when you're on the bike.
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Jul 28, 2021 03:43
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Awesome thank you!
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Jul 28, 2021 04:02
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You can also put a ziptie on backwards for setting sag, it'll hold on there, but slide right back off once you're done
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Jul 28, 2021 04:18
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Also, use your shock pump to let air out so you can actually control how much comes out and measure what you have in there. When I type in the code for my shock it brings up this: 2020, FLOAT DPS, P-S, A, 3pos, Evol LV, Kona, Hei Hei CR, 190, 45, 0.8 Spacer, LCF, LRM, CMF, TC-6265/PMS-447-C Logo Decoding all that is a little tricky (this website explains it mostly as does the part information page on the fox site). But that "45" in there is the shock travel. Which is not the same as the bike's suspension travel, which is 120mm or so. So to set, say, 20% sag, I would want the shock to compress 9mm. I'd consider getting an o-ring to put on your shock so you can see what it's doing more easily. I'm pretty frequently checking where mine ends up after rougher descents or bigger hits. Related note, I went to a smaller volume spacer, from the 0.8 to a 0.4, and I still don't usually use more than about 95mm of total travel out of 120ish. But I like how it feels and haven't taken any really huge hits or gone off big drops either. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Jul 28, 2021 |
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Jul 28, 2021 05:18
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Ok. Here’s mine: 2015, FLOAT-A, CTD RG DRCV, Trek, EX 27.5/29, 7.25, 1.875, 46% Valve Out of those I have to figure 1.875 is the travel.
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Jul 28, 2021 05:31
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Riven posted:Ok. Here’s mine: 2015, FLOAT-A, CTD RG DRCV, Trek, EX 27.5/29, 7.25, 1.875, 46% Valve Yeah thats probably a 7.25”x1.875” shock. Quick Google search suggests that was a Trek specific size.
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Jul 28, 2021 05:47
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I used a hair tie cut and retied for an o-ring when I forgot to put one on after service. Didn't do any damage either and didn't have to worry about it bottoming out and scratching/damaging the dust seals like a zip tie might. It's just a fabric covered rubber band after all.
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Jul 28, 2021 12:43
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| # ? May 25, 2024 01:30 |
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Taking lessons straight up works, y’all! My wife got me a couple more as an anniversary gift, can’t wait to get those booked and done. Basically haven’t touched my road bike since I picked up a mountain bike this year, having heaps of fun. This is from one of the routes I can squeeze in before work in the morning (did the lesson last weekend):
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Jul 28, 2021 23:24
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