Randalor posted:

I'll check it out. Like I said, the original idea is very... basic in what I need (we're talking adaptingsomething made back in the 80's/90's at a 30mm size, so it's fairly light on fine details, to something that's about 6" tall), so I'm hoping that it'll be a good starting point for learning the program.

Bucnasti posted:

The biggest advantage I've found to using Blender is that the community is huge. Anytime I need to know how to do something new, a quick google search will produce three videos, a redit post and a well documented wiki with detailed instructions.

Deviant posted:

so i'm now trying to see if printed solid will exchange this roll of transition PLA for me



blue: jessie transition PLA, 215/60
black: hatchbox black, 215/60

identical gcode, similarly stored filaments. I think i just got a dodgy roll and it's been causing issues.

at their suggestion i went up to 220 and it looks identical.

someone else here said the quality of their transitional PLA had dropped off, too? If I have to go back to hatchbox, i will, but i will grumble about the price.

Roll Fizzlebeef posted:

I am using PETG but I will consider other materials if they will work better. I am also not sure how many perimeters to set or infill % in the slicer, so I would welcome tips about that.

Here is what the broken test part looks like:

ImplicitAssembler posted:

Bolts, you'll still get movement when swinging the bat and it'll feel like a wet noodle.

Sagebrush posted:

Yeah, applying strong bending/shearing force across layer lines like that is the most effective way to break a 3D printed part. A handle for a screwdriver or something would be fine like that, but not a handle that experiences baseball bat style forces.

I would also suggest printing it in two semicircular halves flat on the bed, with some countersunk holes for nuts and bolts to hold them together. Use like 40% infill and 5 perimeters with 0.3mm layer height. Yeah you'll have some stairstepping on the shape, but call it grip texture.

I think he means bolting the two handle halves together, which would be fine as long as they're tight. I agree that they should be glued into the bat though.

Roll Fizzlebeef posted:

Yes, that was what I meant. I figured I would expoxy the halves together and also use bolts. I would still epoxy the handle into the bat as originally intended.
Here is a picture of the redesigned part in prusaslicer.

Thanks for the print setting tips. Should I continue trying PETG or look at another material?

Dominoes posted:

Something to consider for those looking into OpenSCAD when comparing CAD programs: In terms of capabilities and productivity, it's not in the same league as programs like Fusion, Inventor, and SolidWorks. I took a snipe at FreeCAD earlier for its messy UI, but I'd recommend FreeCAD over OpenSCAD. You'll find working with practical designs frustrating and slow, and may hit roadblocks. This applies even to someone with a background in coding. I'm posting this because this isn't immediately obvious from articles comparing various CAD platforms.

Blender is outstanding, but it's more for creative designs. This might apply to a 3d print! If you're making a part, use a CAD program. If making something artistic, use Blender.

Combat Pretzel posted:

OpenSCAD is something for simple procedural things. If you need to start addressing specific edges or vertices, be it for simple fillets or defining feature aligned planes, you're in a world of hurt. That is, if it's even possible to address specific part features in OpenSCAD. (Is it? I don't know.)

Do poo poo like this in OpenSCAD:

Ambrose Burnside posted:

attempting to print my first collapsing core for a metal-casting mold. i'm designing a lil cigarette case as a gift for someone- think an ornate cigar tube sort of deal- and if i cast it as a single cylinder like I want to vs. making two clamshell halves and welding them together, the inside cavity is a challenge- it's a long, narrow tube that's closed at one end, and because the inner diameter is what matters I can't just taper the core, the tube is long enough that a useful amount of draft can't be added.

anyways, collapsing cores! starting simple, just a two-piece assembly here. both should print upright on the bed with no issues



here's how it works- you withdraw the inner core, which is very slightly tapered to facilitate this, and as you do so the 'sleeve' 'petals' can flex inwards, deflecting past modest undercuts of the sort you can't normally locate at the bottom of a deep blind hole when designing a cast part. a smooth tube is pretty easy, threads are pretty easy, i think undercuts up to 10% of the hole diameter are possible with this design. i need to break out the dovetail cores if i wanna do massive 25%+ undercuts or whatever

Sagebrush posted:

withak posted:

Yeah “cigarette case” sure lol.

Ambrose Burnside posted:

, the inside cavity is a challenge- it's a long, narrow tube

Ambrose Burnside posted:

attempting to print my first collapsing core for a metal-casting mold. i'm designing a lil cigarette case as a gift for someone- think an ornate cigar tube sort of deal- and if i cast it as a single cylinder like I want to vs. making two clamshell halves and welding them together, the inside cavity is a challenge- it's a long, narrow tube that's closed at one end, and because the inner diameter is what matters I can't just taper the core, the tube is long enough that a useful amount of draft can't be added.

anyways, collapsing cores! starting simple, just a two-piece assembly here. both should print upright on the bed with no issues



here's how it works- you withdraw the inner core, which is very slightly tapered to facilitate this, and as you do so the 'sleeve' 'petals' can flex inwards, deflecting past modest undercuts of the sort you can't normally locate at the bottom of a deep blind hole when designing a cast part. a smooth tube is pretty easy, threads are pretty easy, i think undercuts up to 10% of the hole diameter are possible with this design. i need to break out the dovetail cores if i wanna do massive 25%+ undercuts or whatever

Deviant posted:

Printed Solid's CS team has been stonewalling me on trying to exchange this roll of PLA I think is bad.

"Try at 235. Lower your nozzle"

dude, i've got a perfect print with other brands. just replace it.

i can no longer recommend them as a vendor.

Deviant posted:

The roll is basically brand new and it's been lifting on prints since I opened it.

I know of two other goons that are now having issues with their Jessie pla and I suspect something has changed or they sent out a bad run

Deviant posted:

The roll is basically brand new and it's been lifting on prints since I opened it.

I know of two other goons that are now having issues with their Jessie pla and I suspect something has changed or they sent out a bad run

insta posted:

It doesn't matter how new the filament is or what desiccant it was packed with. That's all theater and should not be relied on for stuff that must print dry. Do it yourself.

That said, i don't see the problem with that filament. Unless I was missing something, the print looks fine?

Rad-daddio posted:

It's probably just a bad roll.

Ghostnuke posted:

goddamnit I literally just ordered 3 rolls from them yesterday

Randalor posted:

I know this is a dumb question, but if it's just the front feet each time, and it's always happening in the same spot on the printbed, have you tried printing it elsewhere on the bed and seeing if it still happens? If it's a heated bed, maybe the front feet are just in a cooler/cold spot.