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spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops

Sydney Bottocks posted:

That's one problem with the current state of miniature STLs, there's not a lot of "modern" stuff, and most of what there is, is modern/realistic military figures and vehicles. Though I think with Marvel: Crisis Protocol getting a bit more popular, that might change.

A generic superhero would just be a naked barbie-doll figure. If you did a few head options you could swap with blender target point tricks, that'd be a pretty good STL to have.

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Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

spectralent posted:

A generic superhero would just be a naked barbie-doll figure. If you did a few head options you could swap with blender target point tricks, that'd be a pretty good STL to have.

I still need to knuckle down and work some more with Blender, I've got it installed, but never did much with it.

Also I was referring more to like modern/realistic scenery options, stuff like buildings/cars/furniture, etc., as well as stuff like modern civilians, cops, and so forth. Basically stuff that might be used in games like M:CP and other games with a present day setting that aren't set during a zombie apocalypse.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
Black Site Studios has a few modern items.
https://blacksitestudio.com/furniture-scatter-digital/

Something I found recently is Desktop Hero
https://beta.desktophero3d.com/
Its basically a cut rate Hero Forge, but you can make basic models and download the stls for free (they charge for more options). If you import the files into blender you can then break them apart and repose or kitbash them. I was having a hell of a time finding sci-fi civilians, but I was able to create a few with this and then mix them up a bit and combine them with existing models to get a good assortment.

Kerro
Nov 3, 2002

Did you marry a man who married the sea? He looks right through you to the distant grey - calling, calling..
Thanks very much for the tips, I've found some useful stuff in there. I also discovered I was able to make a fairly passable Ernest Shackleton lookalike using hero forge so that should get me going with the current project to build a replica of the Cape Royds hut.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Crossposting from the 3D printer thread

New Vulcan resin report:

I got my sample of the new Vulcan resin from Atlas recently. I knew it needed a bit longer cure times from early reports so I started at 3 second exposure for 30 micron layer heights and kept upping the exposure by .2 until I got a working print. I use really thin supports and Vulcan doesn't seem to do so well with them at all. I finally started getting full prints at 3.8 and after a small failure I'm now at 3.9 sec exposure and error free so far. The colour is really nice for minis and the detail level is definitely fantastic.

From other reports it sounds like I have way higher exposure times than normal but I don't see an impact on the print and I'm getting none of the usual signs of overexposure.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Cranking along on vroom settings with my eryon black resin and I'm seeing failures a bunch where the supports fail to attach to the mini which just sticks to the fep. Am I missing something? What's the fix for this.

I'm currently print at a 3sec exposure at 0.03mm height which I thought was good and now I'm recalibrating at 3.2 to see if that makes a difference.

Seeing it on my saturn and mars 2

PotatoManJack
Nov 9, 2009
Been looking at 3D printers for a little while now, and the ELEGOO MARS UV LCD Resin 3D Printer just popped up on my radar for $130AUD which is about 40-50% off here in Australia. I've heard Elegoo Mars is a good brand / line, and saw a few goons have recommended this maker, so wanted to check if anyone had any experience with it and would recommend it?

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

PotatoManJack posted:

Been looking at 3D printers for a little while now, and the ELEGOO MARS UV LCD Resin 3D Printer just popped up on my radar for $130AUD which is about 40-50% off here in Australia. I've heard Elegoo Mars is a good brand / line, and saw a few goons have recommended this maker, so wanted to check if anyone had any experience with it and would recommend it?

Jump right to the 2 or 3. Base mars doesn't have a mono screen which will mean substantially Longet print times and shorter component lifespan

Big Willy Style
Feb 11, 2007

How many Astartes do you know that roll like this?

PotatoManJack posted:

Been looking at 3D printers for a little while now, and the ELEGOO MARS UV LCD Resin 3D Printer just popped up on my radar for $130AUD which is about 40-50% off here in Australia. I've heard Elegoo Mars is a good brand / line, and saw a few goons have recommended this maker, so wanted to check if anyone had any experience with it and would recommend it?

could you link me to this fellow Oz goon?

Eediot Jedi
Dec 25, 2007

This is where I begin to speculate what being a
man of my word costs me

Big Willy Style posted:

could you link me to this fellow Oz goon?

In all seriousness do not buy the Mars 1 or a printer with an rgb screen when you can get a mono. There is a huge difference in print times. They were great at the time but it's not their time.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Eediot Jedi posted:

In all seriousness do not buy the Mars 1 or a printer with an rgb screen when you can get a mono. There is a huge difference in print times. They were great at the time but it's not their time.

Agreed. My mars pro is good poo poo and prints as good as Any of my other printers, but a monochrome screen is a solid development that really can't be ignored.

Older resin printers essentially used phone/tablet digitizers that came with an rgb matrix, but the extra colors mean that it allows less light to of through the display and really allowed things down.

Now that the tech had matured a bit printers use a purpose built monochrome display which speeds up the time to print per layer. Because of this its also exposed to the UV lightless , which gives the screen a much longer part liffespan

I highly recommend elegoo until you're an idiot like me running it 24/7, and even then I just bought another Saturn for my shop

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Currently at second place in the makers cult painting competition. If you can please vote! (For me, buttcheeksio)

https://www.patreon.com/posts/54436639

PotatoManJack
Nov 9, 2009

Big Willy Style posted:

could you link me to this fellow Oz goon?

Here you go: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3934714...gxoCeOoQAvD_BwE

After the advice from thread though, I'll look at one model up.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

w00tmonger posted:

Cranking along on vroom settings with my eryon black resin and I'm seeing failures a bunch where the supports fail to attach to the mini which just sticks to the fep. Am I missing something? What's the fix for this.

I'm currently print at a 3sec exposure at 0.03mm height which I thought was good and now I'm recalibrating at 3.2 to see if that makes a difference.

Seeing it on my saturn and mars 2

I haven't used their black resin yet so I don't know what kind of exposure times you need for that (3 seconds at 30 microns sounds high for eryone resin - I'm at 2 for the flesh and grey resin). Support failures can happen with both underexposing and overexposing, so there's a chance you're too high as well. Fire a mini through at ~2.5 if going higher isn't helping.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

InternetJunky posted:

I haven't used their black resin yet so I don't know what kind of exposure times you need for that (3 seconds at 30 microns sounds high for eryone resin - I'm at 2 for the flesh and grey resin). Support failures can happen with both underexposing and overexposing, so there's a chance you're too high as well. Fire a mini through at ~2.5 if going higher isn't helping.

Yeah I think your right. I forgot that overexposing ptesents in the same was as under exposing. Rerunning a bunch of amerilabs

2.5 turned out looking really good...... This would explain a lot that I've been dealing with the last week or so

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Aug 4, 2021

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
So, elegoo printers recommend chitubox, but is that mandatory? I've heard lychee is a common alternative; is it any good as a replacement, or should you just suck it up and get chitubox?

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

spectralent posted:

So, elegoo printers recommend chitubox, but is that mandatory? I've heard lychee is a common alternative; is it any good as a replacement, or should you just suck it up and get chitubox?

Personally I like Chitubox, but I'm not doing anything fancy.
For a lot of newer printers (ie Mars 3), and for printers with the latest firmware, you have to slice in Chitubox, but you can do your supports in Lychee and then export as and .stl and import into chitubox for slicing. It's an extra step but it works.

Eediot Jedi
Dec 25, 2007

This is where I begin to speculate what being a
man of my word costs me

There's some fresh internet controversy about that.

At the moment the upcoming Mars 3 looks like it only accepts files sliced in chitubox's latest version, because the manufacturer of the motherboards for elegoo and a few other 3d printer brands make chitubox, and they really want you to buy that pro version.

Elegoo say they're not happy with this and will seek alternatives if chitu doesn't unfuck itself. I think on the mars 2/Saturn even if you upgrade to the latest firmware, it will still accept files sliced in older versions of chitubox, not sure if still accept other programs but probably? Some people get non stop crashing with the latest version.

It's not the end of the world but it's annoying to have to swap programs for no reason, for some people it's extremely aggravating as chitubox crashes so often.

PotatoManJack
Nov 9, 2009
Has anyone used the Anycubic models? It seems like the 2 big brands for resin printing are Elegoo and Anycubic (Mars v. Photon) and both seem to be about the same price. I'm looking at an entry level models that's about as 'set-up and go' as possible that produces good results (mainly for mini-printing).

Class Warcraft
Apr 27, 2006


PotatoManJack posted:

Has anyone used the Anycubic models? It seems like the 2 big brands for resin printing are Elegoo and Anycubic (Mars v. Photon) and both seem to be about the same price. I'm looking at an entry level models that's about as 'set-up and go' as possible that produces good results (mainly for mini-printing).

I have a Photon Mono and it works pretty well, but I have nothing to compare it against as I haven't tried any other resin printers.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

PotatoManJack posted:

Has anyone used the Anycubic models? It seems like the 2 big brands for resin printing are Elegoo and Anycubic (Mars v. Photon) and both seem to be about the same price. I'm looking at an entry level models that's about as 'set-up and go' as possible that produces good results (mainly for mini-printing).

All resin printers are going to be 'set-up and go', so you don't have to worry there. I use both Elegoo and Anycubic and have had issues with both lines but would still recommend both. For miniature printing the Mars2 Pro or the Mono SE are both great.


spectralent posted:

So, elegoo printers recommend chitubox, but is that mandatory? I've heard lychee is a common alternative; is it any good as a replacement, or should you just suck it up and get chitubox?

I use both. I do my support work in Lychee and my slicing in Chitubox. Lychee is unbeatable for support work imo.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

For the hell of it, I own the following resin printers:

2 OG Elegoo Mars (obtained used off of eBay)
Elegoo Mars 2
Anycubic Photon Mono
Elegoo Saturn
Phrozen Sonic Mighty

(the last four I grabbed during various sales)

I haven't tried Lychee Slicer on either of the two OG Mars, but it's worked fine on all the others, even the Photon Mono. I don't think I've opened Chitubox in several months now.

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
So, wait, if I have this right, lychee works fine as a free alternative to all versions of elegoo machine up to the mars 3, so there's not really a good reason to pay for chitubox if you have a mars 2 (pro) or earlier machine unless you need it?

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

spectralent posted:

So, wait, if I have this right, lychee works fine as a free alternative to all versions of elegoo machine up to the mars 3, so there's not really a good reason to pay for chitubox if you have a mars 2 (pro) or earlier machine unless you need it?

Unless I missed something, chitubox is also free. I know they have a pro version that costs money, but you shouldn't need to buy that just to be able to slice a file for the mars3.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


how badly am i loving up by just using the anycubic slicer? I Guess it’s fine-ish since i just use the presupported versions of models, but I should probably stop because they all overdo it to an insane degree

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

jesus WEP posted:

how badly am i loving up by just using the anycubic slicer? I Guess it’s fine-ish since i just use the presupported versions of models, but I should probably stop because they all overdo it to an insane degree
If all you're doing is loading presupported files for printing then it's pretty much irrelevant what slicer you use. As soon as you get into doing your own supports and/or resizing models that's where the real benefit will be in moving to a different slicer. As you mention, tons of the presupported stuff is oversupported to the extreme or supported with way too heavy supports that leave marks on your model so there's definitely a benefit to doing supports yourself.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008


Grimey Drawer

jesus WEP posted:

how badly am i loving up by just using the anycubic slicer? I Guess it’s fine-ish since i just use the presupported versions of models, but I should probably stop because they all overdo it to an insane degree
It kept crashing for me, so I just use chitubox now. It worked fine, when it worked.

Eediot Jedi
Dec 25, 2007

This is where I begin to speculate what being a
man of my word costs me

spectralent posted:

So, wait, if I have this right, lychee works fine as a free alternative to all versions of elegoo machine up to the mars 3, so there's not really a good reason to pay for chitubox if you have a mars 2 (pro) or earlier machine unless you need it?

The split free/paid version of chitubox is very new, it is releasing here and now coinciding with the mars 3 release. The paid version has a lot of features, there is no reason to get the paid version unless you need or can make use of those features.

You can still do all your supports, hollowing, etc in any other program even if you get a mars 3, but you must use either free or paid chitubox to do the final slicing step. With mars2 (pro) et al, as far as I know, they can still read files sliced in older versions of chitubox (anything pre 1.9), just in case you can't use the newly split free/paid chitubox 1.9 because it crashes constantly on you. I'm not sure if Mars 2 et al updated to the latest firmware can still use files sliced in other programs. They used to be able to, but I haven't personally tested mine and I just don't know yet.

Eediot Jedi
Dec 25, 2007

This is where I begin to speculate what being a
man of my word costs me

If you like tiny war hams and like tiny war orcs in particular you might want to check this dude out- https://www.patreon.com/GreenSkinMiniatures/

They've just done goblins, their next project is proper orcs.

E: Just realised the orcs previews are a paywalled preview atm. Click to biggen.



Eediot Jedi fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Aug 8, 2021

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Oh hell yeah I was just looking for decent Ork warmaster models.

Eediot Jedi
Dec 25, 2007

This is where I begin to speculate what being a
man of my word costs me

I'm stoked for orcs, I really love tiny hams. Printing drives me crazy when it's failing without feedback but it's cool as hell when it works.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I'm trying to decide between the Photon Mono X and the Mars 3, and the Mars 3 is half the price. What's the major difference tho?

Eediot Jedi
Dec 25, 2007

This is where I begin to speculate what being a
man of my word costs me

The mono x has a much bigger build plate and is more comparable to the elegoo Saturn. The Mars 3 isn't out yet except samples, has better resolution which doesn't really matter in most applications, but reviews are pretty positive so far.

There's a weird trade off where in a perfect comparison, if they are printing the exact same model the Mars 3 would be faster, but in practice the mono x can print much more in parallel or print the same model at a different angle so it's all about use case.

If you're printing 28mm minis a bigger build plate would be much nicer, the extra resolution is nice but ehhh not noticeable in life.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I'm trying to decide between the Photon Mono X and the Mars 3, and the Mars 3 is half the price. What's the major difference tho?

Consider a Saturn as well if your looking at the mono x.

If it's just a personal machine, mars 3 probably offers a big enough build volume unless you're craving out a ton of volume

Eediot Jedi
Dec 25, 2007

This is where I begin to speculate what being a
man of my word costs me

Having just gotten a Mars 2 semi recently, I kinda wish I'd gone bigger. It's nice to have faster small prints, but I'd rather print more at once so I'm not quite so slaved to the machine getting prints off every ~hour. That said I don't regret going smaller because it saved resin from growing pains and if I didn't like printing it's a much smaller price tag to walk from.

Really wanting a future Saturn pro/Saturn 2 or equiv though.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Eediot Jedi posted:

Having just gotten a Mars 2 semi recently, I kinda wish I'd gone bigger. It's nice to have faster small prints, but I'd rather print more at once so I'm not quite so slaved to the machine getting prints off every ~hour. That said I don't regret going smaller because it saved resin from growing pains and if I didn't like printing it's a much smaller price tag to walk from.

Really wanting a future Saturn pro/Saturn 2 or equiv though.

Are mars 2 is a Bangin machine and honestly kind of the way to go. If components break on that thing they're really readily available vs a Saturn which you need to worry about a lot more on

Just not needing to search for feps/Lcds is huge. I have a couple Saturn's but I'm also running a full blown shop

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I want a resin printer to print random cool things and also terrain, which, probably might be fine with lower quality from a cheaper printer, the print SPEED is also important to me too, as that costs time and electricity. Most of the 4k printers seem to print a lot at once and also quickly. I really dislike the visible layers of non-resin 3D printers

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I want a resin printer to print random cool things and also terrain, which, probably might be fine with lower quality from a cheaper printer, the print SPEED is also important to me too, as that costs time and electricity. Most of the 4k printers seem to print a lot at once and also quickly. I really dislike the visible layers of non-resin 3D printers

For terrain, I'd still consider a decent FDM. My ender 3 rips, and honestly does good job at terrain.

I'd use a resin printer for scatter terrain but poo poo truly loons fine with a bit of post processing and tuning the machine.




Much like miniatures, most poo poo on a table you're seeing from a couple feet away and aren't really going to scrutinize to closely

Edit: I should mention these were printed on a machine with some very serious z and issues I later sorted out

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Aug 11, 2021

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

w00tmonger posted:

For terrain, I'd still consider a decent FDM. My ender 3 rips, and honestly does good job at terrain.

I'd use a resin printer for scatter terrain but poo poo truly loons fine with a bit of post processing and tuning the machine.




Much like miniatures, most poo poo on a table you're seeing from a couple feet away and aren't really going to scrutinize to closely

honestly you're probably right, I'm just highly critical of myself

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Class Warcraft
Apr 27, 2006


GreenBuckanneer posted:

I want a resin printer to print random cool things and also terrain, which, probably might be fine with lower quality from a cheaper printer, the print SPEED is also important to me too, as that costs time and electricity. Most of the 4k printers seem to print a lot at once and also quickly. I really dislike the visible layers of non-resin 3D printers

RE: printing terrain on a resin machine -The build plate of a resin printer is still smaller, so even though each individual print is faster than FDM, you'll need to do many more prints in order to complete the same project. Also, most terrain is cut to fit FDM print beds, not resin, so you'd have to cut it up yourself in a program and then assemble it once printed, which can cause problems if things didn't cut/print perfectly.

Also printing in resin is like, 20x more expensive.

There's a reason almost no one uses resin printers for terrain except for very small scatter pieces.

Class Warcraft fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Aug 11, 2021

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