Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Rufio
Feb 6, 2003

I'm smart! Not like everybody says... like dumb... I'm smart and I want respect!

cruft posted:

If the wires are correctly hooked up on the other end, then wouldn't this mean any grounded thing plugged into that circuit could electrocute anyone touching it?

If the wires on the other end were hooked up correctly, there would be no hot feeding this receptacle because the black wire from incoming power was capped off.

The thought process or lack-there-of that went into this installation boggles the mind.

I like that the bare wire on the grounded conductor terminal was the only one wrapped the correctly around the screw lol.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Rufio posted:

If the wires on the other end were hooked up correctly, there would be no hot feeding this receptacle because the black wire from incoming power was capped off.

I'm going to elaborate on this because it took me a couple minutes and I think it's of interest to people trying to understand wiring.

What this means is that the wire coming from the circuit breaker panel is the one on the left side of the screen. The poster said it was "capped off", meaning it had one of those twisty hats on top of it to keep it from shorting anything. So although there is a black wire on the side of the outlet that the black wire should be on, it's running to some other thing in the house, ostensibly some other outlet. That wouldn't be a problem if the white and ground wires were also running through the same bundle, but those two are wired (incorrectly) back to the circuit breaker panel.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Gonna steal referring to wire nuts as twisty hats from now on

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

cruft posted:

I'm going to elaborate on this because it took me a couple minutes and I think it's of interest to people trying to understand wiring.

What this means is that the wire coming from the circuit breaker panel is the one on the left side of the screen. The poster said it was "capped off", meaning it had one of those twisty hats on top of it to keep it from shorting anything. So although there is a black wire on the side of the outlet that the black wire should be on, it's running to some other thing in the house, ostensibly some other outlet. That wouldn't be a problem if the white and ground wires were also running through the same bundle, but those two are wired (incorrectly) back to the circuit breaker panel.

Incorrectly because you're not supposed to short neutral to ground; the whole point of ground is in case your power drill gets hosed up, the current has a fast (and, criticially, unloaded; as in, there is no current normally on it) path back to ground. A path that doesn't include your heart.

I guess there's just a whole lot to pick apart on this. It might be worth somebody who isn't a rank amateur like I am describing all the problems with this and why they're problematic. I think it's really interesting!

Inner Light posted:

Gonna steal referring to wire nuts as twisty hats from now on

:hmmyes:

cruft fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Aug 3, 2021

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe
I want to know how it was being fed hot from the white. I feel like I'm missing something there.

Rufio
Feb 6, 2003

I'm smart! Not like everybody says... like dumb... I'm smart and I want respect!
It was in the middle of a multi outlet branch circuit. The previous receptacle was wired incorrectly on the outgoing power and this was wired incorrectly to match.

That's what makes it so wild. Someone who was replacing receptacles didn't even bother hooking wires color to color.

We will never know what went on here because we don't know what it's like to not have a brain.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Rufio posted:

We will never know what went on here because we don't know what it's like to not have a brain.

:emptyquote:

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
And you know that tab was broken off when the drat breaker kept popping.

Rufio
Feb 6, 2003

I'm smart! Not like everybody says... like dumb... I'm smart and I want respect!

H110Hawk posted:

And you know that tab was broken off when the drat breaker kept popping.

It's just the angle of the picture that makes it look broken.

The tab is actually in tact, else the other room would have had an open neutral. Everything down the line was fine except for open ground.

All of the receptacles on the circuit were functioning just fine, except that anything drawing power on the circuit would put a load on that bare wire.

The owner (landlord) had no idea there was a problem until she wanted to sell and a home inspection found open ground.

Rufio fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Aug 4, 2021

dms666
Oct 17, 2005

It's Playoff Beard Time! Go Pens!

Harry_Potato posted:

That looks like a switch loop done backwards. The proper thing to switch is the "hot" side. It looks from you picks that they are extending the neutral down to the switch and breaking it there. Electrically this works, but it is a code no no. Wiring in your new fixture to the two black wires will work and despite being "wrong" in not really a safety issue.

Making it "right" would involve finding the real neutral and using that with the white wire on your fixture and tagging the white wire that leads to the switch with tape or black paint. If you cap all the wires and carefully reset the circuit breaker you can use your NC voltage tester to find the feed wire with the real neutral.

Thanks. I appreciate the info. Turns out every ceiling fixture is wired like that.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

I pulled a new 12/2 cable from the panel to the bathroom to replace the ungrounded 14 gauge in there. I need to use the same receptacle location, and I can't remove the old romex (which is now not connected to anything else) because it's nailed to studs.

Should the old romex simply be capped off inside the receptacle box and kept separate from the new cable, or should they be connected to each other in some way?

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

BonerGhost posted:

I pulled a new 12/2 cable from the panel to the bathroom to replace the ungrounded 14 gauge in there. I need to use the same receptacle location, and I can't remove the old romex (which is now not connected to anything else) because it's nailed to studs.

Should the old romex simply be capped off inside the receptacle box and kept separate from the new cable, or should they be connected to each other in some way?

If it's not being used anymore you can try sticking it back through the hole in the back of the box to leave it dangling in the wall. If that's not possible I would just cap the two abandoned wires(neutral and hot) together in the back of the box and call it a day.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
In other news it was only 95 degrees outside today so I climbed in my attic and finished up putting my bathroom on it's own ~grounded~ GFCI/AFCI 20 amp circuit. :iia:

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Hahahaha what you can just abandon wires in the wall??? Why did no one mention this sooner?!

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

You only have to pull it if it’s in conduit or if it’s exposed and accessible, for NM just cut that poo poo and stuff it in. I typically put a little tape flag identifying where the other end of the cable is cut off at but that’s by no means mandatory.

Messadiah
Jan 12, 2001

BonerGhost posted:

Hahahaha what you can just abandon wires in the wall??? Why did no one mention this sooner?!

You have to abandon them at both ends, don't forget this key point.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I've had to abandon a wire or two in my day and I usually cut it so that you can't get to it / wire to it just in case someoen else gets a stupid idea in 50 years (I plan on not moving for a long time moving sucks). Like I had a wire going to overhead outdoor wires to my garage so I cut it as close to the hole it went into as I could to prevent it from ever being used.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

You also have to remove any abandoned runs once you make them accessible (rip down wall), but like, what kind of SOB wouldn't do that anyway if the wall's open?

The rules for stapling/securing cables are also very relaxed if you're fishing in existing walls, but again, once you open it up, you have to do it right.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Folks you have just made my life a million times easier.

vibur
Apr 23, 2004
Our main bathroom has what is basically a closet for the toilet. In that closet was a blank face GFCI outlet. I asked an electrician that was here doing other work about it and he said it's providing GFCI for the circuit the jacuzzi tub is on (which we'll likely never use).

Since the wife would really like a bidet seat, I figured why not change it to an actual outlet. Yesterday, I flipped the breaker off and got to work. When I got the blank face off, I found this:


It's tough to see but there is a three-prong plugged into that receptacle which undoubtedly is for the tub.

This is not typical, right? I'm not crazy in going WTF when I saw it, right?

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


vibur posted:

This is not typical, right? I'm not crazy in going WTF when I saw it, right?

This is Certainly Wrong and absolutely defeats the entire point of having a GFCI there. Unless you've got metal water pipes, all the fault current goes through the ground wire and returns to the GFCI neutral and everything's fine.

:tif:

Follow the instructions on the GFCI and you'll be safe enough. If the GFCI pops nonstop when the tub is in use, then you know it was installed improperly and is a danger to everyone who has ever known about it.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

vibur posted:

Our main bathroom has what is basically a closet for the toilet. In that closet was a blank face GFCI outlet. I asked an electrician that was here doing other work about it and he said it's providing GFCI for the circuit the jacuzzi tub is on (which we'll likely never use).

Since the wife would really like a bidet seat, I figured why not change it to an actual outlet. Yesterday, I flipped the breaker off and got to work. When I got the blank face off, I found this:


It's tough to see but there is a three-prong plugged into that receptacle which undoubtedly is for the tub.

This is not typical, right? I'm not crazy in going WTF when I saw it, right?

Let me write down what I think I'm seeing here:

You pulled a blank faceplate off the wall and discovered a 5-15 outlet facing into the wall, with something plugged into it. There may or may not have been a whole bunch of exposed wires just sort of loosely hanging out, including a black wire a few centimeters away from a bare copper wire.

I don't know if it's WTF to have an outlet facing inward. I think probably this is bad, because the 5-15 is not meant to be a permanent connection. Another hint, to my amateur mind, is that they are called "outlets" and they are not called "inlets". But you should wait for someone else to reply.

Exposed black (hot) wires is definitely WTF and you need to fix that. I'm also a little concerned that you have what looks like neutral wired to ground, which would be the second photo of this in two pages, in which case I am going to call "bingo" and claim my EV Doubler.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

vibur posted:

Our main bathroom has what is basically a closet for the toilet. In that closet was a blank face GFCI outlet. I asked an electrician that was here doing other work about it and he said it's providing GFCI for the circuit the jacuzzi tub is on (which we'll likely never use).

Since the wife would really like a bidet seat, I figured why not change it to an actual outlet. Yesterday, I flipped the breaker off and got to work. When I got the blank face off, I found this:


It's tough to see but there is a three-prong plugged into that receptacle which undoubtedly is for the tub.

This is not typical, right? I'm not crazy in going WTF when I saw it, right?

Wait a second, did you already remove a GFCI outlet and then you found a second outlet behind it facing into the wall, when you took this photo?

Rufio
Feb 6, 2003

I'm smart! Not like everybody says... like dumb... I'm smart and I want respect!
This is tripping me out. They make blanked GFCIs for this exact purpose but they needed to save the tens of dollars and put an outlet backwards? I would also love to know what's going on with those exposed wires.

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

Literally nothing about that picture is okay.

That receptacle that the jaccuzi pump is plugged into should be mounted in a separate box in the space under the tub and accessible through a door or removable panel. Preferably that access should be the exact same door or panel that permits access to the pump assembly for when that needs service. It should never, ever be hanging loosely out of the back of a box that's apparently missing its backside. And there shouldn't be a ground neutral bond, and the wires should be properly wrapped around the screws.

That's a rip it all out and do it right situation there.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

corgski posted:

Literally nothing about that picture is okay.

The baseboards look pretty nice to me :shrug:

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I think we're all missing the lede, which is that the tub is plugged into that outlet, which means the power cord is being run through the wall, which is also a big-nono. And if the justification was to GFCI protect that circuit... well that's not even a GFCI outlet.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

FISHMANPET posted:

I think we're all missing the lede, which is that the tub is plugged into that outlet, which means the power cord is being run through the wall, which is also a big-nono. And if the justification was to GFCI protect that circuit... well that's not even a GFCI outlet.

I'm increasingly of the opinion that there were *two* outlets in this box. One facing outward, with the GFCI stuff. One facing inward, into which the hot tub was plugged with a 5-15.

The three wires we see went to the GFCI. However, the inward-facing plug was not wired to be "downstream" of the GFCI, so the GCFI was probably sending it good vibes (it was close so not much loss of vibe energy due to distance) but not doing anything else.

Still a mystery: is the ground wire going to the neutral side of the inward-facing plug? Was it just floating there in the box, right next to the neutral terminal? Where is the GFCI's ground wire connected? Is the hot tub wire going through the wall or does it come out on the other side of the wall, run down the floorboard, and then go back into the wall and into the hot tub? Is the inward-facing plug upside-down, or did they instead wire hot to the neutral side and neutral to the hot side?

cruft fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Aug 4, 2021

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
Yeah I think you're right, I didn't realize this was a thing since I've never seen it strolling through the electrical aisles at Home Depot or Menards, but Blank Face GFCI is real.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

FISHMANPET posted:

Yeah I think you're right, I didn't realize this was a thing since I've never seen it strolling through the electrical aisles at Home Depot or Menards, but Blank Face GFCI is real.

Oh yeah, check it out, the dangly bit where you'd fasten the outlet to the receptacle box has been broken off the outlet.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
Extra deep old work boxes were a mistake :laugh:

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Note that a 'hydromassage bathtub' (as it's called in the NEC) must be on it's own (GFCI-protected) circuit. You can't go branching off that to run your heated butt washer or whatever unless you disable the tub circuit.

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

FISHMANPET posted:

I think we're all missing the lede, which is that the tub is plugged into that outlet, which means the power cord is being run through the wall, which is also a big-nono.

Oh no I noticed that which is why I said there needs to be service access into the cavity under the tub. A handy box with a GFCI-protected receptacle for the pump mounted inside an unfinished cabinet also containing the pump assembly is fine. It ceases being fine when you completely enclose it like most cut rate jacuzzi tub installers do because people want a clean finish in their bathroom.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

vibur posted:

Our main bathroom has what is basically a closet for the toilet. In that closet was a blank face GFCI outlet. I asked an electrician that was here doing other work about it and he said it's providing GFCI for the circuit the jacuzzi tub is on (which we'll likely never use).

Since the wife would really like a bidet seat, I figured why not change it to an actual outlet. Yesterday, I flipped the breaker off and got to work. When I got the blank face off, I found this:


It's tough to see but there is a three-prong plugged into that receptacle which undoubtedly is for the tub.

This is not typical, right? I'm not crazy in going WTF when I saw it, right?

That's incredible.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe
Man this thread has delivered the last couple of days...

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

B-Nasty posted:

Note that a 'hydromassage bathtub' (as it's called in the NEC) must be on it's own (GFCI-protected) circuit. You can't go branching off that to run your heated butt washer or whatever unless you disable the tub circuit.

Hey op, this is actually a big deal for your butthole-squirting plans. It means you need to run a whole new circuit, which is probably going to be a pain in the rear end, and that's something you're explicitly trying to avoid with the bidet.

If I may be so bold, we've had a cold-water-only bidet attachment for the last 15 years and it really only took about a month for us to get used to the water being cold. That might be worth trying out for a while, could save a lot of electrical work.

You absolutely have to fix this janky wiring now, though.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

movax posted:

Good point -- no reason to not think ahead. Service is 200 A, yep.

If Home Depot is my local chain of choice, what brands should I stay away from? My OG panel is Square D (80s vintage), existing subpanel is Cutler & Hammer. Planning on buying all new breakers, so compatibility doesn't really matter to me. I was thinking of Square D QO-series.

New question -- kind of general DIY but if there's anything I've learned recently owning a home / reading this thread... very little of electrical work is actually thinking about the electrons and more cursing everything in the way of our wires.

Anyways, got some Lutron Serena Shades and I want to get them wired up now -- going to roll my own power supply for them (12 V PSU + sense leads + 4x outputs... I know it's overkill but I can't help myself). Question on the wiring requirements / drilling however:

I've got four shades installed in my living room -- here's a straight-on view of two of them:



There's the top:


Here's a close up of an installed shade. Will have to drill a vertical hole to get the power cables up to the top.


Another view of the area in question:


What I want to do is drill the smallest possible holes to get the PSU wires up above the window, and then horizontally over to one end of my living room so I can drop it down to the PSU. I would like to ideally run a cable for each shade to avoid voltage drop, but judging from the fact that Lutron's sticker on each of these goes from 6.. 12 VDC, I'm probably over designing it. Side effect is basically that the holes will be slightly larger for the first few window frame members to allow more cable to pass through.

* I know I want to try to aim in the dead middle of both pieces of wood to avoid compromising integrity -- T/F? What is the biggest hole size you'd put in this?
* This is not techncially 'in-wall', is it? Do I have to use CL2 wire? If so, I feel like I need to find the tiniest, black jacketed cable (22 AWG?). It won't end up hardwired into a panel of any type -- it'll be a wall-wart in the end.
* If I don't have to use CL2, I might use some UL 1017 / similar wire on the top.

Also polite bump for this question here, if any of you fine folk could spare a moment or two!

vibur
Apr 23, 2004

cruft posted:

I'm increasingly of the opinion that there were *two* outlets in this box. One facing outward, with the GFCI stuff. One facing inward, into which the hot tub was plugged with a 5-15.

The three wires we see went to the GFCI. However, the inward-facing plug was not wired to be "downstream" of the GFCI, so the GCFI was probably sending it good vibes (it was close so not much loss of vibe energy due to distance) but not doing anything else.

Still a mystery: is the ground wire going to the neutral side of the inward-facing plug? Was it just floating there in the box, right next to the neutral terminal? Where is the GFCI's ground wire connected? Is the hot tub wire going through the wall or does it come out on the other side of the wall, run down the floorboard, and then go back into the wall and into the hot tub? Is the inward-facing plug upside-down, or did they instead wire hot to the neutral side and neutral to the hot side?

This is essentially correct. Before I pulled the blank face GFCI off, there were no wires dangling free. What you're seeing here is the receptacle in its this-is-a-job-for-someone-licensed state.

The ground does not go to the neutral of the 5-15R. It only looks that way because of the angle. It was connected to the 5-15R's ground screw. The bare copper coming up behind the 5-15R was connected to the GFCI's ground screw and the GFCI blank face was upside-down.

I'm currently of a mind to unplug the tub and wire the outlet as it should be for now. We have a series of things an electrician needs to look at anyway so wiring the tub properly can be done then and we'll just go without for the time being. We're really shower people anyway.

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

vibur posted:

I'm currently of a mind to unplug the tub and wire the outlet as it should be for now. We have a series of things an electrician needs to look at anyway so wiring the tub properly can be done then and we'll just go without for the time being. We're really shower people anyway.

Yes, unplug the tub and drop the cable in the wall, replace the box with a brand new old work box that hasn't seemingly had the back cut out of it to accommodate a molded plug being pushed through it, and install a brand new 5-15 duplex receptacle with a GFCI. Everything currently in that picture should be thrown out.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

cruft posted:

Hey op, this is actually a big deal for your butthole-squirting plans. It means you need to run a whole new circuit, which is probably going to be a pain in the rear end, and that's something you're explicitly trying to avoid with the bidet.

If I may be so bold, we've had a cold-water-only bidet attachment for the last 15 years and it really only took about a month for us to get used to the water being cold. That might be worth trying out for a while, could save a lot of electrical work.

You absolutely have to fix this janky wiring now, though.

I can second the hell out of the cold water bidet. There is nothing more refreshing than a cool spray of water on your b hole the morning after spicy wings night.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply