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spankmeister posted:You can get key fobs on places like wish.com or aliexpress or banggood etc but you need to be really sure that the one you get matches the original and you will have to get the key programmed to the car by someone with the right equipment. Whats a decent rate for a programming?
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Aug 8, 2021 03:45
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Head Bee Guy posted:Whats a decent rate for a programming? I just got a worn out key replaced with a newly cut one and programmed at my local Toyota dealer for less than 150 canuck bucks. It took about a week to get the key itself. I still even got to keep the old key part that has the chip embedded in to it. It just doesn't have the buttons and whatnot. Your mileage may vary.
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Aug 8, 2021 04:06
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Head Bee Guy posted:What’s a decent rate for a programming? If you have a working key already, some cars you do the right incantations and you can program a new one yourself for free, so it's worth a few minutes of searching around
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Aug 8, 2021 13:36
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DildenAnders posted:https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,1999,civic,1.6l+l4+sohc,1355611,body,bumper+cover,1344 pick and pull is potentially an option if you have a common color car, black/silver etc.
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Aug 8, 2021 17:03
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tactlessbastard posted:Idle thought, is car insurance coverage going to keep up with the currently bananas used car market when it comes to repairing/replacing upon a loss during these unprecedented times? Just went through this. Nope. Not. One. loving. Bit. They gave me $2700 for a car that I can't replace for under $5k, and refused to use any local comps. They were pulling comps from up to 500 miles away instead, in motherfucking Arkansas and Oklahoma (I'm in Central TX). 
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Aug 8, 2021 19:07
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1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST Just bought it. It needs a million things, but for some reason this is my biggest question: What is this reservoir in the bottom of the trunk? It's got various lines going in and out but has been disconnected  Edit: ignore the orange poo poo. It appears to be from a broken hot sauce bottle. I hope.
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Aug 9, 2021 00:07
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Eclipse12 posted:1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST It's for the rear washer IIRC, which is weird since most cars I know of with rear washers just run a long line from the front reservoir.
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Aug 9, 2021 00:32
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I wondered that, but it's a convertible and just has the small glass with no wiper
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Aug 9, 2021 00:37
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Eclipse12 posted:I wondered that, but it's a convertible and just has the small glass with no wiper Then it's almost definitely the hydraulic reservoir for the top.
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Aug 9, 2021 01:51
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That seems likely, thanks. I thought it was all done with electric motor but am not surprised if I'm wrong. Never owned a convertible before.
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Aug 9, 2021 01:56
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It's your windshield washer fluid reservoir for the front windshield because Mitsubishi are weirdos. The filler should be behind a panel on the left or right side of the trunk. Don't put hydraulic fluid in your windshield washer reservoir.
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Aug 9, 2021 02:13
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That actually explains a lot, because I was simultaneously wondering where the washer fluid reservoir was in the front. I just assumed it was removed by the previous owner or hidden somewhere. I can see the fill port in the side of the trunk. Weird. I've owned three Gen 1 DSMs but don't remember them having the wiper fluid in the back. Thank you for the info! Eclipse12 fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Aug 9, 2021 |
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Aug 9, 2021 02:23
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drat, Doug DeMuro would spend 20 minutes talking about this at least
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Aug 9, 2021 02:28
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Putting the front windshield washer fluid reservoir in the trunk for perfect weight balance THANK YOU mistsubishi.
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Aug 9, 2021 02:57
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Inner Light posted:drat, Doug DeMuro would spend 20 minutes talking about this at least And then he'd pull that stupid pose
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Aug 9, 2021 03:14
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How much does paint quality affect the resale value of a car? I have a 2005 Toyta Camry that has some sun damage on the paint. Someone I know offered to patch up all the paint for about $400. It seems to me that it wouldn't make sense to dump that much money into patching up the paint. Am I assuming correctly? If getting the paint fixed would up the resale value of a car, I'd do it. I just don't know that anyone in the market for a 15 year old Camry would pay the premium for paint.
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Aug 10, 2021 20:01
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A clean car with nice looking paint will tend to fetch a higher price than one with lovely paint. Even if you don't have meticulous records of maintenance they may be more likely to trust that the vehicle was well maintained.
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Aug 10, 2021 20:11
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Bioshuffle posted:How much does paint quality affect the resale value of a car? How is the rest of the car? If it has 200k miles and is worn then probably not. If it's lower mileage and otherwise nice then yeah it might be worth it. AmbassadorofSodomy posted:A clean car with nice looking paint will tend to fetch a higher price than one with lovely paint. Even if you don't have meticulous records of maintenance they may be more likely to trust that the vehicle was well maintained. This matters a lot less with trucks I've consistently found. Specifically 25+ year old Toyotas incidentally enough. Specifically sun damage. KakerMix fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Aug 10, 2021 |
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Aug 10, 2021 21:27
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A big part of that is how the car looks after the paint repair. Something like a full-on repaint or color change, especially done inexpensively, stands out as being obviously a repair versus well maintained original paint - and that'll lead a savvy buyer to think this is unreported crash damage.
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Aug 10, 2021 22:00
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Can anyone recommend an OBDII reader/diagnostic tool? I'm getting a p0442/ CEL on my 2009 Mazdaspeed3 which I think is still related to my evap system. I've replaced the gas cap, and at one point the CEL cleared itself, but it came back not much later. The three times I've noticed the light coming on, I am right at ~1/4 full on the fuel gauge. I suspect to properly diagnose it, I will need to find a shop to do a smoke test for me. However, if any of the OBDII tools will allow you to manipulate the evap system solenoids and things, possibly I could do a diagnosis myself.
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Aug 10, 2021 23:47
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Bidirectional/OEM controls quickly get you into no thank you kind of money for scantools. Maybe Forscan can do it though?
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Aug 11, 2021 00:41
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If I have threaded holes on an unbranded european part that are intended to accept eyebolts to lift it, and hand-threading a 5/16" eyebolt into it causes the threads to begin to bind after two full turns, that means that is it probably for an 8mm lifting bolt, correct?
Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Aug 11, 2021 |
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Aug 11, 2021 00:43
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opengl128 posted:Bidirectional/OEM controls quickly get you into no thank you kind of money for scantools. Interesting, Forscan might be able to do it-- but then do I want to try and self diagnose? I'm not sure.
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Aug 11, 2021 00:55
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Zero VGS posted:If I have threaded holes on an unbranded european part that are intended to accept eyebolts to lift it, and hand-threading a 5/16" eyebolt into it causes the threads to begin to bind after two full turns, that means that is it probably for an 8mm lifting bolt, correct? Likely yes.
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Aug 11, 2021 07:37
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I had a 4 gallon jug of water spill in the truck of my 2015 Mitsubishi Mirage on Monday. I pulled everything out of the trunk and left my windows down. The soft surfaces in my trunk dried fine and don't have any bad odor My car still smells like mildew though and I'm not sure what to do. Please help ):
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Aug 11, 2021 12:25
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Hello strange new forum i have never posted in before. I have a stupid car question because I know little about cars but I am also skint and need to keep one running without throwing lots of money at it. The garage has given me a list of advisories as part of my MOT, one of which is a new set of spark plugs based on the fact there are no records of the car having them replaced in the last four years (most of the advisories are of this nature) I seem to remember last time they were going to charge quite a lot of money to replace them but I looked on the internet and they seem to cost, like, a few pounds a piece and there are videos on youtube of people replacing them very easily as the coil pack is just on top of the engine. It is a 8 year old vauxhall/opel corsa. Given that I know my grandmother replaced her own spark plugs when she drove I am basically asking is this something I should do myself if I am fairly confident I can avoid dropping things in the engine in the process? I would rather come out of it with a bit more money or at least a new socket set but I don't know anybody living in my family who has mechanical knowledge nor was I brought up with any experience of it, so I have the persistent fear that anything I do will somehow brick the car. The car only has about 35k on the clock and I don't drive it very far, so it's a bit annoying that I am supposed to keep replacing poo poo just because it's been in the car a while. But if that is the way it is then fair enough. OwlFancier fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Aug 11, 2021 |
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Aug 11, 2021 15:50
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Spark plugs (and oil changes) are great for a beginner to try. That being said, it's unlikely you need them changed if there aren't any problems with the car atm. I think your best bet would be to get yourself a suitable ratchet set and spark plug socket, pull one out, and look at it. If it looks worn, then you know you should replace them, and if they look fine, then you can put everything back, having gained both experience with working on your car and saving a bit of money. Youtube and google images are generally great resources for this type of job when you're starting out, so I'd recommend you watch a video first. And it's very important you work on a cold engine, as you can very easily strip out the spark plug holes if the engine is still hot. At any rate, best of luck.
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Aug 11, 2021 16:12
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You say this is part of the MOT. Does that mean they've ordered you to replace the spark plugs to be in regulatory compliance even though the car is running fine? Lmao @ the UK if so. If it's just something the garage has told you about, yeah, there's no reason to replace them if you aren't having problems. Garages love to tack on simple jobs and charge exorbitant rates for them. But if you just want to replace the plugs yourself for whatever reason, then as noted they're very cheap and the most complicated part is usually removing any plastic panels or covers that might be on top of the engine. Definitely something you can do yourself with a spark plug wrench and maybe a socket set.
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Aug 11, 2021 16:25
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Yes I have already watched a couple of videos and was a little intimidated by the big V8s and stuff with all the separate wires and plugs buried under other stuff, but mine I believe is supposed to just have a single coil block on the top and four inline plugs which looks much easier. They also helpfully mentioned not doing it on a hot engine because obviously that will bugger the threads, and gave some explanations for what worn out plugs will look like. I did wonder about that, the car runs absolutely fine and always has, I only get stuff changed because the garage recommends it (and stuff like tyres which obviously you need to) or if it fails the MOT. But lacking any mechanical experience I am also conscious that I don't really know where it is safe to skimp out. I gather that misfires are usually discernible from performance and noise and also there are things like cracked ceramic on the plugs you can look for. They change the oil every year when it's serviced (apparently, not that I really have much way of checking other than the dipstick) so that shouldn't be an issue, the main issue with changing fluids is I don't think I have anything to let me get under the car which I assume is where the drain plug would be for most of the fluids (the car doesn't have a spare tyre so I don't have a jack, it has one of those weird emergency foam sealant kits instead) I will perhaps see about getting a ratchet (I kinda want one of those anyway) and the attachments to let me look at the plugs. Thank you for the advice! I hate having this thing that I don't know how it works and I am entirely beholden to other people to keep in working order, the information disparity makes it impossible to know whether I'm being taken for a ride so it would be nice to be able to know more authoritatively what I actually need. Sagebrush posted:You say this is part of the MOT. Does that mean they've ordered you to replace the spark plugs to be in regulatory compliance even though the car is running fine? Lmao @ the UK if so. No, advisories are just "we think you should do this because it's the manufacturer recommendation" it hasn't failed the MOT for it. Basically I don't know if it's trying to upsell me on the service or whether the manufacturer recommendations are actually important (or rather which ones of them are more important than others, I assume some of them probably are important even if others are not) The advisories I've been given are all stuff like two-yearly fluid replacements and the aforementioned spark plug four yearly replacement except for some minor wear on the brake discs which... I mean the car still stops quick enough to throw everything on the floor if I press the pedal so I'm not feeling like the brakes are a problem. And the fluids all work fine because it wouldn't pass otherwise. Basically yes I am trying to avoid just giving them money to do things that don't need to be done for the sake of it, but I am working under a very limited knowledge of what actually needs to be done. OwlFancier fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Aug 11, 2021 |
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Aug 11, 2021 16:31
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OwlFancier posted:The car only has about 35k on the clock It's difficult to imagine a modern vehicle with 35k miles on it that would need spark plugs. Go pull out the owners manual and find the service schedule. Compare these "recommendations" to what the people who made and built your car say you need to do at what times and mileages.
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Aug 11, 2021 16:37
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OwlFancier posted:No, advisories are just "we think you should do this because it's the manufacturer recommendation" it hasn't failed the MOT for it. Basically I don't know if it's trying to upsell me on the service or whether the manufacturer recommendations are actually important (or rather which ones of them are more important than others, I assume some of them probably are important even if others are not) Motronic posted:Go pull out the owners manual and find the service schedule. Compare these "recommendations" to what the people who made and built your car say you need to do at what times and mileages. This. All the info you need is in the manual.
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Aug 11, 2021 16:41
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I bought a duralast 800 jumper pack the other day and charged it for over 36 hours so I could revive the battery on my Jetta. I went to go put it on the battery though and the status light only got to yellow despite it showing a full charge when I took it off the plug. Anyone have a similar issue, or am I just not charging it enough?
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Aug 11, 2021 16:57
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What does yellow mean in the manual? An external jumper pack is not likely to be able to fully recharge a car battery, simply because it doesn't store enough energy. (If it could, it would be as big and heavy as a car battery). Most likely it will get the battery to a state where you can start the engine, but then you have to go and drive around for an hour to let the car's electrical system charge it up the rest of the way.
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Aug 11, 2021 17:01
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Those jumper packs have small 12V batteries in them, like you'd find in an alarm or computer backup system. I had to replace the one in mine, and it was a 9AH 12V sealed battery. Big enough to jump start a car, not big enough to charge a battery. I barely drive my car these days, so I bought a 20 dollar battery charger/tender to keep it charged. Works pretty well. Took about 36 hours to charge the battery, and then it just maintains.
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Aug 11, 2021 17:11
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Sagebrush posted:What does yellow mean in the manual? That's what I'm trying to do with it. According to the manual they say it could take 72 hours to fully charge and that that the yellow means it's at 20-80% of its full charge. The indicator was green pretty fast though so maybe it was just wishful thinking?
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Aug 11, 2021 17:12
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Motronic posted:It's difficult to imagine a modern vehicle with 35k miles on it that would need spark plugs. I'm actually struggling to find replacement intervals for anything in the manual annoyingly, or any mention of spark plugs or the engine ignition system though online does suggest a few people coming out with the 4-5 year manfuacturer recommended intervals. Unfortunately when I got it it didn't come with a detailed service history, just the stamps in the book to say it had been done, but no details on what specifically was done so I genuinely don't know what the maintenence was like before I got it a few years ago. I like the car so i don't want to run it into the ground through lack of maintenence, but again the lack of knowledge means I don't necessarily know why specific things need replacing. I'll see if I can find a more detailed manual online and search it rather than trying the paper one. Only thing listed in the service section is engine oil viscosity and "use good clutch fluid, do not put water in your clutch fluid" E: the "recommended fluids, lubricants, and parts" section contains no parts... I feel like they do not expect the owners to be doing anything to the car other than putting oil in it. E2: aha I think I have found some service manuals online which look much much more useful, will have a look through these. Much appreciated thread! OwlFancier fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Aug 11, 2021 |
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Aug 11, 2021 17:33
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OwlFancier posted:I'm actually struggling to find replacement intervals for anything in the manual annoyingly, or any mention of spark plugs or the engine ignition system though online does suggest a few people coming out with the 4-5 year manfuacturer recommended intervals. Unfortunately when I got it it didn't come with a detailed service history, just the stamps in the book to say it had been done, but no details on what specifically was done so I genuinely don't know what the maintenence was like before I got it a few years ago. I like the car so i don't want to run it into the ground through lack of maintenence, but again the lack of knowledge means I don't necessarily know why specific things need replacing. I found this, but I'm not certain it's official: http://www.opeltech.org/cman-485.html If it is accurate though, your spark plugs would be due for replacement every four years. For the real deal, you might be able to get a dealer or other shop to print out the service schedule for you. The manual I found on opel.ie really isn't helpful, but you might have some other literature about service with the other paperwork. Link: https://www.opel.ie/owners/manuals.html
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Aug 11, 2021 17:51
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nitsuga posted:For the real deal, you might be able to get a dealer or other shop to print out the service schedule for you. The manual I found on opel.ie really isn't helpful, but you might have some other literature about service with the other paperwork. Link: https://www.opel.ie/owners/manuals.html Yes I tried here and they are just copies of my paper one, so they do not seem to include any useful info. If all else fails I can try and pick up a haynes manual or something. I will keep searching, thankyou! E: vvvvv That is a helpful list too! Most of the big ones are covered as part of the MOT so that's fine, will see what I can do about learning to do some of the others. OwlFancier fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Aug 11, 2021 |
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Aug 11, 2021 17:55
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OwlFancier posted:the lack of knowledge means I don't necessarily know why specific things need replacing. The newbie list of car things to keep an eye on: Oil and filter need to be changed/replaced regularly because the oil collects soot from combustion and some of the important chemicals in it break down with heat over time, and the filter fills up with gunk. Older cars may also burn a small amount of oil so it has to be topped up periodically. Tires naturally wear down and have to be replaced once the tread hits the wear bars (you can google what those are). Brake pads wear down with use and must be replaced when they get to a certain minimum thickness. Brake rotors wear down as well, but much more slowly than pads. If you replace the pads on time and don't let them get so thin that they start grinding, you may never have to replace the rotors. Brake fluid should be checked at the same time you do the pads and may need to be topped up or flushed. The engine intake air filter eventually gets full of dust and must be replaced. Spark plugs eventually wear out and don't produce a strong spark anymore, which you may notice as hard starting, stumbling on acceleration, a misfire, etc. Generally if you aren't having any problems you don't need to replace them though. Depending on your engine design, the timing belt may need to be replaced every 50,000 to 100,000 miles. That belt keeps the engine parts synchronized and if it breaks the engine at best won't run, and at worst will be catastrophically damaged. You probably wouldn't replace this yourself, but don't forget about it. (Some cars do not have timing belts). Various moving parts in the suspension have to be greased on a regular basis to keep them moving smoothly (this is a "lube job"). Windshield washer fluid obviously gets used up and needs to be refilled. Wiper blades dry out and crack and need to be replaced. Light bulbs get replaced when they burn out. That's pretty much it. Anything else on the car is not really part of regular maintenance and should last indefinitely, or at least until the car is very old.
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Aug 11, 2021 17:58
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This is a DMV question. I am in Virginia. My wife was recently rear-ended. She was deemed not at fault. The car was towed from scene. In order to get the payout from the insurance company, we need to hand them over the title to the vehicle. We were unable to locate the title. We went online and tried to order a new title from the Virginia DMV. It said we were unable to order a new title as the 'Title was returned to DMV.' What does this mean? How do we get the title? Ten thousand thanks to anyone who can help. If it matters it was a 2012 Nissan Versa, bought used and paid off.
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Aug 12, 2021 01:54
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