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unknown posted:You're good - cabling is the hardest part, everything else can be swapped out later with ease (like that router). yeah, i expected to do exactly that. i asked my buddy what router he runs his network on and he has a ubiquiti dream machine, which seems like its what the eero wanted to be interface-wise. They appear to be sold out and im not attached to the archer long term. It's just more stable than using the eero as the router.
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Aug 6, 2021 15:40
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Biowarfare posted:No, every commercial one sucks. Mullvad is ethically decent, but you will still get the same captcha problems due to ludicrous amounts of bad actors. drat, ok I suppose I could give mullvad another go, I tried it once and it was slow for me and I ended up going back to nord as I have a 3 year sub, though that's about to be over. Honestly I didn't really give Mullvad that much of a chance I think I switched back after 4 hours.
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Aug 6, 2021 16:24
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otter posted:yeah, i expected to do exactly that. Personally I would not touch the UniFi stuff for routing -- only APs and switches. That said, I put in a UDM-Pro at my parents', and it seems to be going OK, but it's also not a very complex network.
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Aug 6, 2021 18:40
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my network is not very complex, I don't think It's 1 full time computer, 2 work laptops (which connect via vpn to our offices), 4 xboxes, 2 playstations, 3 switches, 4 ipads, 2 amazon fire tablets, 3 phones and the occasional guest phone / tablet / ipad. Somehow the Eeros have not done well to keep this network going properly which is what has led me to spend a couple benjis going wired.
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Aug 6, 2021 18:50
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I've found a possible source for what been seemingly random lag spikes in our network that causes voip and game dc/hangup. I'd already gone through all the cabling and tested and no issues, I get full bandwidth through the connections from the modem to the router to the computers etc. However it seems that when someone's spotify decides to cache the next songs it will hammer our connection for a second (checked with resmon) which then causes all other traffic to get hosed. Is this a QoS thing? Can I limit the connection speed for one program somehow and see if that fixes it?
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Aug 6, 2021 19:09
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how horrendously bad is your connection? yes, qosable
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Aug 6, 2021 19:28
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I have a roughly 70Mbps connection, but I've caught Spotify slamming it with 9 mil bytes/s for a second which is insane. unless resmon is just reading wrong I got an archer c7 v2, looks like only option is port based bandwidth control. if spotify uses port 80 not sure this'll work but I'll check into it.
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Aug 6, 2021 21:03
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CaptainSarcastic posted:Does changing DNS provider give any different results? If that's an option, of course. I tried changing the DNS of my home network from Google to Cloudflare, getting similar slow download speeds though. I don't think changing the DNS of my server would affect it right?
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Aug 6, 2021 21:22
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Voxx posted:I have a roughly 70Mbps connection, but I've caught Spotify slamming it with 9 mil bytes/s for a second which is insane. unless resmon is just reading wrong This is 9Mbps?
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Aug 6, 2021 21:31
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It wouldn't make a difference for accessing your single server, its only makes a difference for things on a CDN like Netflix where you could stream from a server in a far away city instead the closest city.
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Aug 6, 2021 21:34
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This might start off semi-off-topic, but I'm moving houses in about a month and I'm shopping around for home internet service at the new place. We currently have AT&T gigabit fiber. The new house doesn't have a fiber connection, so I had to call a few ISPs to see what was possible. My god, the ISPs in the area make me want to choke someone. If I have to listen to one more salesperson extol the virtues of their maximum ~25Mb down/5Mb up service for stupid prices, I will probably snap. Earthlink offers 24/3 Mb service for $59/month, and was selling it as "fiber-based" service suitable for up to 60 devices and gaming and streaming and working from home and everything else. Bitch, I got gigabit fiber and I use it. Don't try to sell me on your crap DSL. Looks like I'll be limited to 25Mb VDSL based service from AT&T or Comcast cable internet - I'll be going Comcast, probably their 800Mb service (I think upload is 20Mb). AT&T did float that it looked like fiber might get rolled out to that neighborhood in a few months, but I can't bank on that. The good news, and getting back on topic: the previous owner was some sort of IT guy and wired the whole house with ethernet, it looks like all rooms have 2x ethernet drops. My current UniFi switches won't cover all of the drops, so it looks like I'll be in the market for for a USW-24-POE soon. I might be able to centralize and streamline my network setup quite a bit, currently I have a mish-mash of POE-powered UniFi switches scattered around my house powered by a small central POE switch.
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Aug 6, 2021 22:06
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if this is a sfh ask comcast about their 3gbps down 1gbps up ftth plan for $300, it's called gigabit pro on the rate card and no first-line agent knows it exists and will think you are referring to the 1000/5 cable plan
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Aug 6, 2021 22:20
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Biowarfare posted:if this is a sfh ask comcast about their 3gbps down 1gbps up ftth plan for $300, it's called gigabit pro on the rate card and no first-line agent knows it exists and will think you are referring to the 1000/5 cable plan I'm in the process of doing this. I got it going by submitting a thread on their subreddit, this is hooked up with their ticketing system and they actually seem to know what you're talking about when you say Gigabit Pro and I was contacted the next day by the Gigabit Pro team: https://www.reddit.com/r/Comcast_Xfinity/comments/nflkjc/gigabit_pro_availability/ They pulled city permits and ran the fiber from the curb to my home (no digging required!). Now I've got a big spool of fiber hanging up in my closet waiting for the next steps. I'm not really sure what the city permits were for, maybe there is something they still need to do in the street
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Aug 6, 2021 23:10
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Hoping this is the right place to ask about this, my house is wired up with cat5 by the previous owner / builder who lived here 10 years ago but I've never bothered with terminating the cables that are behind various wall panels because wifi was sufficient. But since it's the future now and the wifi signal's not strong enough through my house I want to finish it so I can get wired connections throughout my house, I'm just not entirely sure what I'm doing.   Here's where the cables all converge in the basement, I suspect more of the wires need to be connected here, but also a lot of what I've googled up suggests that I should get a switch and terminate the cables to plug into it. What's the best move here?
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Aug 8, 2021 00:38
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Rip that ancient piece of junk out and put in a small rj45 patch panel. (that's a telco style punchdown that every telcos are ripping out).
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Aug 8, 2021 01:44
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Yeah get rid of the old 66-block telecom patch (which is for phone lines not ethernet anyway) and get a shallow rack frame to mount a patch panel for cat6 (110-block on the back) and maybe mount your switch etc in. E: Edit for if that's the only space you have that little narrow strip, then maybe something like this will suffice?  https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-12-Port-Vertical-Bracket/dp/B00UVQI8B6 Sniep fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Aug 8, 2021 |
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Aug 8, 2021 01:50
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raditts posted:Hoping this is the right place to ask about this, my house is wired up with cat5 by the previous owner / builder who lived here 10 years ago but I've never bothered with terminating the cables that are behind various wall panels because wifi was sufficient. But since it's the future now and the wifi signal's not strong enough through my house I want to finish it so I can get wired connections throughout my house, I'm just not entirely sure what I'm doing. Punch blocks are not terrible, however. This appears to have been a case where the person who previously pulled the wire completely missed the point of pulling CAT5, as they have pulled it.... AND THEN USED IT FOR PHONE SERVICE. Pray they left you a couple extra loops, because you're gonna have to chop off ALL of the unjacketed stuff except for just enough to terminate an RJ45 plug. SwissArmyDruid fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Aug 8, 2021 |
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Aug 8, 2021 01:53
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Punch blocks are not terrible, however. 110 block is fine but nobody is installing 66 block anymore. Might as well go to wire wrap terminal block lol in all seriousness, wouldnt 66-block's design break cat6 at 10g or anything newer than cat6 anyway? the pair twisting is super specific and i know when i punched down my cat6 in my house that i had to keep the pairs twisted right up till the keystone punches per-pair
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Aug 8, 2021 01:55
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Sniep posted:110 block is fine but nobody is installing 66 block anymore. Might as well go to wire wrap terminal block lol That wasn't even aimed at you, y'all are just too fast and answered his question before I could. Editing previous post to reflect that now.
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Aug 8, 2021 02:00
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raditts posted:Hoping this is the right place to ask about this, my house is wired up with cat5 by the previous owner / builder who lived here 10 years ago but I've never bothered with terminating the cables that are behind various wall panels because wifi was sufficient. But since it's the future now and the wifi signal's not strong enough through my house I want to finish it so I can get wired connections throughout my house, I'm just not entirely sure what I'm doing. Echoing what others have said, rip that out and get a new patch panel. At the very minimum you'll want to do a patch panel & a switch down there, once all your cables are lit up you could either have your networking equipment down there, or have it situated around some other drop in the house. Are you thinking you'll probably have a router and POE switch down here for some cameras and access points? If you so may want to go the small rack mount frame that was mentioned, and mount it on the wall (depending on what this space looks like). You can get a rectangle frame one or I also like this style: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5YH1ZE/ Depending on how many rack units you need, adjust the size accordingly (router + UPS + patch panel so 3U maybe? depends on how crazy you wanna get) If you're not looking to go hog wild with the rack mount stuff, you could go with a lower profile patch panel that you can just screw to the wall: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLTQLCC Pair this with a small netgear unmanaged gigabit switch that is right on top of the patch panel, with a bunch of short patch cables connecting everything. The one time use tools that come with some of the patch panel stuff can be pretty rough, you may want to swing for a real punchdown tool: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-KLEBE-VDV427-300-Punchdown/dp/B08J2DN6HC/ (especially if you plan on re-doing the wall plates & keystone jacks around the house)
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Aug 8, 2021 02:04
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Or you could do what I did which is absolute apathy and give up on punching down patch panels once the proof of concept was working, and just home-run all the cables with crimped on ends directly in a giant rat's nest </embarassed> SOME DAY I WILL GET TO FINISHING THIS (you see, the empty top rack units are for the patch panels and cable management heh)
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Aug 8, 2021 02:12
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fletcher posted:The one time use tools that come with some of the patch panel stuff can be pretty rough, you may want to swing for a real punchdown tool: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-KLEBE-VDV427-300-Punchdown/dp/B08J2DN6HC/ (especially if you plan on re-doing the wall plates & keystone jacks around the house) I take it this is one of those "get what you pay for" type situations seeing as the Klein stuff seems to be 2-3x the price of similar tools on Amazon. Are they the kind of tools that you pay more for but they last forever? I'm not sure when the next time I'd need to actually do any of this would be, but if I can count on them to be reliable when I do then I guess it's worth the extra price. For the wall panels, it looks like I'll need a pack of these https://www.amazon.com/VCE-10-Pack-Keystone-Bundle-25-Pack/dp/B08JLPJXVH and then I punch the other ends into the keystone jacks the same way as the punch panel? Also, will I need something like this for stripping the keystone end of the cable? https://www.amazon.com/Pass-Thru-Reliable-Klein-Tools-VDV226-110/dp/B076MGPQZQ raditts fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Aug 8, 2021 |
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Aug 8, 2021 16:13
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I am going to be getting symmetrical gigabit fiber in the near future and I need to upgrade my routing hardware to be able to utilize it. My current setup is a haswell era Intel NUC running ESXi with an OPNsense VM routing a 400/20 connection. The NUC only has a single ethernet port, but using VLANs and a switch this setup is working great. I realize it'll be a bottleneck with the new service so I need to replace the NUC to get multiple dedicated ports for WAN and LAN. The NUC has USB 3 on it so I could add a USB based ethernet adapter, but everything I read online says they're very unreliable in this use case. Also, everything says to stay away from Realtek and go Intel NICs all the way. Sounds like this is more of a driver issue with BSD kinda thing. I'm going to go bare metal this go around instead of virtualized. I've looked at the protectli and qotom boxes, but I have no idea if they're powerful enough to route the gigabit. I'd prefer hardware around the same size as my NUC as well which is also limiting my search. What do you suggest I get? Is anyone familiar with this unit? Seeed Studio Odyssey Blue J4125. It seems to check all the boxes, but I've never heard of them. I'm not dead set on staying with the opnsense/pfsense stuff either, but I'm familiar with them and they work well. I see the hEX from MikroTik as well. Would this device handle what I'm looking for?
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Aug 8, 2021 16:24
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raditts posted:I take it this is one of those "get what you pay for" type situations seeing as the Klein stuff seems to be 2-3x the price of similar tools on Amazon. Are they the kind of tools that you pay more for but they last forever? I'm not sure when the next time I'd need to actually do any of this would be, but if I can count on them to be reliable when I do then I guess it's worth the extra price. I've been getting a few of the specialty Klein tools lately and the quality is excellent. They definitely feel like they will last a lifetime. It does feel a bit like overkill though, since it's definitely not a tool you'll be using a ton in the future. I think you could get away with a cheaper version. That being said, I got more use out of mine from helping friends & my parents with their projects, so I was glad I ended up with a decent set of tools. Plus, who doesn't like a good excuse to get a new tool? Yup for the wall plates you'll want keystone plates & jacks like the ones you've linked. Since the cables in the walls at my house were all cat5e, I opted for keystone jacks with labels to match. The leviton stuff is nice quality, originally I had got some of these RiteAV wall plates and they were just garbage quality, ended up returning them and went with all leviton plates and jacks. They make the jacks in other colors too if you don't want white. That Klein pass through tool is great I've got the same one, super handy for terminating cables with rj45 connectors. (I got the non-pass through one before that and ended up returning it for the pass-through, waaaay easier to use). That being said, it's overkill if all you need to do is strip a cable for the keystones, you could probably get away with using a normal pair of scissors to carefully do the stripping. Apparently real linesman use a more scissor like tool to do the stripping. I do all my stripping with the klein pass through tool you linked because it's noob friendly. You could even do something like this in the basement and terminate all your cables into keystones. Or skip the patch panel entirely and just terminate those cables with RJ45 connectors and plug them directly into a switch. I like having a patch panel between my network stuff and the house wiring though, you can make it a bit cleaner looking installation. The patch panel (& labels for what cable goes where) will stay with the house forever, and the networking equipment connected to it might change, that's why it's better in the long run to keep them separate with a patch panel. fletcher fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Aug 8, 2021 |
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Aug 8, 2021 16:57
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lignicolos posted:
Qotoms and Protectli boxes have several models that are likely way overspec’d for your needs, so the question should be which is the lowest model that can handle symmetric giabit. I have an old i5 Qotom that does gigabit without breaking a sweat. Super reliable. Next time I buy something, i would likely get Protectli rather than deal with slow shipping from China and potential worry about needing to RMA. That said, my experience with a cheaper Qotom from China has been rock solid on Opnsense.
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Aug 8, 2021 17:09
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Just moved into a place setup for Google fiber. Google sent me a pair of Wifi pucks, but it appears this place might be wired up for physical connections. Can I use my mikrotik to route and the wifi pucks as APs only, or do I have to use one as the router for that to work correctly? My old place I had a few Unifis and the mikrotik. I left the old APs in the ceiling, so I'd have to purchase new ones to get back to a similar setup. Just trying to see if I can make these Google Wifis do something similar.
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Aug 8, 2021 19:02
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lignicolos posted:What do you suggest I get? I've posted about this before but HP T620 Plus or T730 Thin Clients are really good candidates. $100-200 on Ebay, readily available parts, low power usage, and a low profile 4 port gigabit NIC like the $25 hp NC365T fits fine (as does a dual 10gig if that's your thing). FunOne posted:Can I use my mikrotik to route and the wifi pucks as APs only, or do I have to use one as the router for that to work correctly? Unless something's changed, Google Wifi pucks don't have an AP mode. otter posted:Ok... So you should be terminating onto a keystone rather than terminating onto an RJ45 jack and plugging it into a coupler. Hopefully just confusing wording. Ensure the keystones, faceplates, and patch panels are from the same brand as they're not universally compatible. KS fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Aug 9, 2021 |
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Aug 9, 2021 05:52
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KS posted:
yeah, the cable matters ones. Im starting to sort of get stressed because of a couple of things. Im thinking about how the cables are going to run in the wall, and in at least the run to the office which is the majority of the reason for doing this whole thing... the power outlet is in the middle of the wall. There isn't anywhere to go 16" away from the outlet on that wall. so now im stressing about running those within the 16" of a power line without being shielded wire. so i feel like i hosed the whole project up now. that being said, i think i remember when I bought the house one of the first things i did was replace all the power outlets and I think the power came in horizontally, not vertically. Is there a way to figure out of the power runs up a stud or not without cutting the wall wide open? My major networking experience was 15-20 years and multiple concussions ago, but everything I did was for the most part in a data center where none of this was an issue because everything was in a rack and purpose built. The other one is - where the ethernet cables come out of the ceiling into the network cabinet, is there a recommended ceiling fixture for this? When I had run HDMI cables through a wall in my last house I put those brush plates like these. Do they make something similar for ceiling drops? Or should I just order those and drop the wires through them? At this time there will be 6 wires dropped through it.
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Aug 9, 2021 06:54
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I'm looking for advice on picking out a router. I've gone through the OP but it looks a bit out of date. The internet itself is fast (0.5Gbps), and I'll end up using a mix of wifi and ethernet. It'd be nice to get away without having any APs/extenders. Is there a thread consensus on which routers are the best?
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Aug 9, 2021 14:09
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If I were writing the OP I'd recommend one of the mesh routers. Was very happy with Google Wifi for two years, have used Eero. They're simple to set up and get regular security software updates. The ability to buy one and add mesh nodes later if you discover coverage gaps is great.otter posted:yeah, the cable matters ones. You really don't need to worry about this. It's designed to run 100m, much farther than you will run it, and cross 480v stuff. 110 doesn't touch it. For the ceiling penetration, a business would do a conduit stub with plastic bushings, but do whatever fits your house the best. KS fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Aug 9, 2021 |
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Aug 9, 2021 14:29
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So was going to run Ethernet to a couple spots in the house to later hook up APs to, only plan to do two, is there a reason I shouldn't just buy two premade cables that are longer than I need and just leave the excess in the attic? Seems like a lot less work than buying bulk cable and punching them etc.
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Aug 9, 2021 16:51
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Rakeris posted:So was going to run Ethernet to a couple spots in the house to later hook up APs to, only plan to do two, is there a reason I shouldn't just buy two premade cables that are longer than I need and just leave the excess in the attic? Seems like a lot less work than buying bulk cable and punching them etc. You mean, not bother with the keystone jacks and pull the wire ends through as-is? That would be fine... you can always cut them and terminate them into keystone jack plates later.
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Aug 9, 2021 17:06
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80k posted:You mean, not bother with the keystone jacks and pull the wire ends through as-is? That would be fine... you can always cut them and terminate them into keystone jack plates later. Yeah, they are going to be in the ceiling, so was thinking about not even using a plate, just drill a small hole just big enough for the cord that the AP will cover up.
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Aug 9, 2021 17:36
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Tested the in-wall setup the old fashioned way, by trying every port. No luck. This Google WiFi setup let's me push about 360mbs, but I want that full 900+ I can get with fiber. I'm waiting for my Ethernet test equipment to show up so I can see if anything in this house is properly wired, but if not I'll need a mesh system since this is a rental. What mesh systems are going to get me closer to my max bandwidth here? Will the nest WiFi do it, or do I need a new wifi6 erro or similar?
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Aug 9, 2021 18:14
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Wifi doesn't go that fast unfortunately.
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Aug 9, 2021 18:17
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Tremors posted:Wifi doesn't go that fast unfortunately. I demand more!
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Aug 9, 2021 18:19
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KS posted:If I were writing the OP I'd recommend one of the mesh routers. Was very happy with Google Wifi for two years, have used Eero. They're simple to set up and get regular security software updates. The ability to buy one and add mesh nodes later if you discover coverage gaps is great. Thanks! I must be a bit out of date. Still in the mindset of flashing custom firmware on some ugly/cheap looking block. Are the advantages of mesh routers that they are easy to extend to get better coverage? Is it dumb to go for a more traditional router?
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Aug 9, 2021 18:25
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Yea, this thread probably needs an updated OP. It seems the gold standard is wired ethernet and access points with a controller (i.e. Unifi or Omada)... but how much is someone giving up by using a mesh network? Also, what are people using for wired routers and access points these days? The Edgerouter ERX and ER-Lite are pretty old... there's the ER-4 now. But Ubiquiti is not the only game in town anymore. I love TP-Link's Omada stuff and transitioned to their AP's and controller and convinced others to do the same. Also, Pfsense/OPNsense seems way more viable to get into (lots of high quality appliances available and they are dead simple to set up and use), though obviously pricey (but worth it, IMO). Then there is Mikrotik and TP-Link's Omada firewall (which I haven't tried) which I have heard good things about.
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Aug 9, 2021 20:07
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FunOne posted:I demand more! You demand wires then. I typically can’t push more then 400mbps over wifi and I’ve got a solid mesh system with gigabit. I bit the bullet at the beginning of the year and had my house wired with Single Mode Fiber. It was a good choice and now I have glorious gigabit hardwired to most devices.
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Aug 9, 2021 21:21
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You pulled SMF and only run 1gbps over it?
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Aug 9, 2021 21:30
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