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PoptartsNinja posted:The glow's a good start, but if you're looking to punch it up it could use some direct highlights on all the raised areas facing the lantern. Thanks! This is some great advice. I haven't done anything with painting up the ground yet and this has very much been the first step for the lighting with basically just a light orange wash. I'm going to try and do everything you suggest and check back in later. You all rule! Thanks for the solid advice and encouragement! Edit: BTW if anyone else is just trying to practice with a pile of little mans, the Frostrgrave miniature sets are super economical. I paid about $30 for 25 mans and they paint up real good! punishedkissinger fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Aug 11, 2021 |
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Aug 11, 2021 16:58
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Any Canadians that can recommend an online store in Canada (or US and ships to Canada) that sells decent grass flock? Looking to finish my blood bowl minis. Also, is the white glue for schoolkids acceptable or do I need something better?
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Aug 11, 2021 19:27
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Ristolaz posted:Any Canadians that can recommend an online store in Canada (or US and ships to Canada) that sells decent grass flock? Looking to finish my blood bowl minis. White glue is PVA, the stuff they sell for kids is sometimes a little watered down from raw PVA (sometimes Wood Glue), but will absolutely do the job of sticking down flock.
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Aug 11, 2021 19:31
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punishedkissinger posted:trying my hand at OSL. what do i do to make this lantern look better? Very obviously have to clean up the mini a bit bit i think the glow kinda works? This guy looks great. A way to improve would be to boost the contrast by making the side not lighted by the lantern darker. One of the common pitfalls of OSL is basically what you've done here - Painting the mini like normal, band adding some OSL on top of that, which looks a little unnatural. People generally don't carry lanterns in broad daylight, which is what "normal" painting simulates.
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Aug 11, 2021 19:38
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I'm thinking I should just tamp it down on the non-lit side with some black wash?
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Aug 11, 2021 19:45
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You're using a yellow/orange light, so I'd probably use a black wash with just a hint of purple.
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Aug 11, 2021 20:00
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Another thing you can do is to run over the exterior parts of the lantern that aren't being lit up by the light inside with a dark colour to sell the effect of lighting better. So a dark grey on the exterior grill. e.g. 
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Aug 11, 2021 20:41
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Ristolaz posted:Any Canadians that can recommend an online store in Canada (or US and ships to Canada) that sells decent grass flock? Looking to finish my blood bowl minis. My go-to store is Meeplemart but I'm local so I can walk around the store and not worry about shipping. Their website is a bit poo poo because you can't remove out of stock items but they generally have a wide range of things.
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Aug 11, 2021 20:56
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Finished up this Sister of Battle last night. Tried experimenting with taking some bits of a cotton swab, soaking it in watered down white glue, and hanging it out to dry which gives you a decent smoking barrel effect. Not sure how well it shows up in the picture, but I also hit the smoke with a tiny amount of grey via airbrush to try and give it some depth. 
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Aug 11, 2021 21:40
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That's a badass paintjob on a very cool sculpt. Also wicked job on the face!
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Aug 11, 2021 23:54
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MasterBuilder posted:Their website is a bit poo poo because you can't remove out of stock items but they generally have a wide range of things. You absolutely can; I've done it a bunch. Unless they just broke it.
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Aug 12, 2021 00:01
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Still working on the base but you all gave some great advice. really pushing my limits here thanks!
punishedkissinger fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Aug 12, 2021 |
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Aug 12, 2021 01:45
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MasterBuilder posted:My go-to store is Meeplemart but I'm local so I can walk around the store and not worry about shipping. Their website is a bit poo poo because you can't remove out of stock items but they generally have a wide range of things. Thank you, this is exactly the kind of store I was looking for!
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Aug 12, 2021 02:16
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Azerban posted:You absolutely can; I've done it a bunch. Unless they just broke it. Really? I must be super blindo because I can sort by thing that are TBA but not things that I can "add to cart". PM me.
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Aug 12, 2021 02:16
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punishedkissinger posted:Still working on the base but you all gave some great advice. really pushing my limits here thanks! That's a huge improvement, great work. 
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Aug 12, 2021 10:30
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Is there a way I can make blond hair using XV-88, Serph. Sepia, and Ushabti Bone? Duncan uses Zandri Dust but I don't have it. It looks like I could just mix XV-88 with something to get the same color, though?
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Aug 12, 2021 11:40
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Professor Shark posted:Is there a way I can make blond hair using XV-88, Serph. Sepia, and Ushabti Bone? Duncan uses Zandri Dust but I don't have it. It looks like I could just mix XV-88 with something to get the same color, though? Probably? Any mid-light tan will do nicely, the internet tells me that XV-88 is a dark tan, so either mix something in to lighten it or mix a brown into the Edit: Said Zandri Dust when I meant Ushabti Bone. SiKboy fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Aug 12, 2021 |
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Aug 12, 2021 11:54
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Professor Shark posted:Is there a way I can make blond hair using XV-88, Serph. Sepia, and Ushabti Bone? Duncan uses Zandri Dust but I don't have it. It looks like I could just mix XV-88 with something to get the same color, though? Absolutely, like SiKboy said just mix XV88 with a lighter color. You could even just start with XV88, wash it with Sepia, add some Ushabti Bone to the XV88 for the first highlight, then just use straight Ushabti Bone for the second highlight layer.
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Aug 12, 2021 16:23
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My first attempt at yellow is also going to give me my first attempt at stripping this piece of poo poo with isopropyl alcohol. I finally got smooth looking coverage, at the cost of a number of layers I literally lost track of. I'm dumb for taking a crack at it with a space marine I had already zenithal primed. Should've gone white from the very beginning. I guess on the plus side, the aquila is probably my best yet. Squiggle fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Aug 12, 2021 |
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Aug 12, 2021 17:33
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I didn't paint up a lamenter or imperial fist, but I did some yellow on a recent model and discovered that the ProAcryl yellow from monument hobbies behaves amazingly for a yellow
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Aug 12, 2021 17:59
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I've never had any issues with yellow. Maybe it was because my initial yellow panting was done on Orks, where it's ok if they look a bit dirty 
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Aug 12, 2021 18:13
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Squiggle posted:My first attempt at yellow is also going to give me my first attempt at stripping this piece of poo poo with isopropyl alcohol. I finally got smooth looking coverage, at the cost of a number of layers I literally lost track of. Pink works very well for the shadows, if you're using yellow ink. I based my whole IJ army with pink, sprayed a dark purple from below, and a white ink from the top and the result is amazing and it takes one layer of each. Basically this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmnPkiiswPk
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Aug 12, 2021 18:22
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Ristolaz posted:Any Canadians that can recommend an online store in Canada (or US and ships to Canada) that sells decent grass flock? Looking to finish my blood bowl minis. https://www.ebay.ca/sch/locoworks/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= If you aren't in Toronto this shop is in Kingston and ships across Canada.
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Aug 12, 2021 18:25
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Furism posted:Pink works very well for the shadows, if you're using yellow ink. I based my whole IJ army with pink, sprayed a dark purple from below, and a white ink from the top and the result is amazing and it takes one layer of each. Augh, I'm not cool enough to have an airbrush, but I gotta say that Goobertown is just a treasure and those look amazing.  It's so borderline. I figured out heavy drybrushing as a smoothing tactic a few layers too late, and with the other details done it looks a far shake better than it did when the despair first set in, but... I don't know if I'll do highlights and the remaining finishing touches, or just Dip it. I think I'll let it sit for a while, stare at it. I've also decided the Imperial Fists color scheme makes them look like school bus transformers. You know what, thanks buddy, you're right! EDIT 2: You know what, I think drybrush highlighting might've actually saved this! That foot's pretty rough, but I'm gonna base it with textured mud anyway and will just mud over them. Yay! Thanks for the encouragement, y'all. 
Squiggle fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Aug 12, 2021 |
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Aug 12, 2021 20:50
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Squiggle posted:EDIT: Woof, and look at the lack of definition on that divot at the top of the backpack. Not proud of this one. I assure you, no one see's or notices this kind of stuff except for yourself. So be proud of what you've done.
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Aug 12, 2021 21:36
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I don't feel like getting the backdrop out for it yet, but here's the model I entered in the July painting contest at my LGS. I just winged it for the gold NMM, could have used more contrast but it's hard on these cheap and not great reaper models.
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Aug 12, 2021 23:43
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Well, guess the paint recovery project was pointless after all. Got everything set up to work on these ETB assault Intercessors. Got as far as partially basecoating one color on one model before I got frustrated enough with the model to quit. I wish I still enjoyed this like I used to. 
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Aug 12, 2021 23:56
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SkyeAuroline posted:Well, guess the paint recovery project was pointless after all. Got everything set up to work on these ETB assault Intercessors. Got as far as partially basecoating one color on one model before I got frustrated enough with the model to quit. I wish I still enjoyed this like I used to. What was frustrating? Base coating sucks rear end and there are good ways to minimise it, like coloured primer or zenithal prime -> contrast paints. Even contrast paints themselves are mostly great time savers, even if you're anal enough to go back and clean it up with regular paints. Sometimes revived paints don't come back all the way either, they might be very thin leading to a million coats to get smooth coverage, despite looking like any other paint.
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Aug 13, 2021 00:40
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More non-standard Nurgle fun - I finished up this chonkmeister for my Dusk Raiders over the past week or so: ...man, Dark Vengeance came out 10 years ago? The model definitely still holds up, and a friend did some snazzy nurglification work on it to boot.
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Aug 13, 2021 00:47
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Eediot Jedi posted:What was frustrating? Base coating sucks rear end and there are good ways to minimise it, like coloured primer or zenithal prime -> contrast paints. Even contrast paints themselves are mostly great time savers, even if you're anal enough to go back and clean it up with regular paints. Partly new GW mini design. Before I quit I did Dark Eldar and 30k-model Marines; strengths (if I can tout them) were solid freehand, decent drybrush and highlight techniques, but it helped to have straightforward models as canvases. Accessible surfaces and all. These new models loving suck to reach any detail on because of how they're built, and there are no shortcuts around it because everything is ETB and/or monopose. Double points for ETBs since there's also no "paint in subassemblies". So I can barely wedge a brush in to get any paint on half the surfaces, detail is constantly covering other detail to force bad angles... just a mess of models. I ran into this before I quit with some of the licensed D&D miniatures like the Mimic 2-pack, where the chest mimic has a partly-open lid that's part of the body, can't be removed, and is of course pre-primed solid white, with a small flat gap to paint the whole thing through. None of it is enjoyable, it's just busywork. And all of this feels like busywork. It used to be fun.
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Aug 13, 2021 00:57
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ETB kits are held together with friction so you can take them apart at any point even after fully painting them as long as it's not something like the head that gets stuck into the clamshell pieces of the body.
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Aug 13, 2021 01:01
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Yea especially the ETB marines, if you leave the arms off there's really no part of the mini that's hard to reach except for maybe the head. But for the head I just cut off the peg and glue it on after I am done with everything else.
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Aug 13, 2021 01:05
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Yeah here's an example: If you glued them together out of habit by being an old egg I understand why this wouldn't be an option though.
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Aug 13, 2021 01:08
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Hmm... if one of my washes left a pretty glossy sheen on parts, would some lahmian medium matte it back down? I've got it, but have never used it for anything yet. Don't have a specifically matte medium on hand, but was afraid to try it.
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Aug 13, 2021 01:14
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Eej posted:Yeah here's an example: Yeah, habit struck. It's actually been the legs that were giving me difficulty more than the arms were, but noted for the (potential) future.
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Aug 13, 2021 01:16
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Pull the model out of the base and paint it upside down. ...Unless you also superglued the pegs into the base.
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Aug 13, 2021 01:17
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Hell, cut the legs at a joint with an Xacto knife and re-glue it together when you're done! I wound up cutting off a head on one of my earlier minis that I hosed up real good.
Squiggle fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Aug 13, 2021 |
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Aug 13, 2021 01:21
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SkyeAuroline posted:Yeah, habit struck. It's actually been the legs that were giving me difficulty more than the arms were, but noted for the (potential) future. After painting like 30 of these guys, it's not that bad dude. Use a slightly skinnier brush.
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Aug 13, 2021 01:26
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Is this a place to post babby's first minis? YouTube kept showing me Warhammer videos so I bit the bullet and grabbed some figures and some paints. Here are my little 40k "Getting Started" guys following the recommended color scheme more or less:   And that wasn't so bad so I grabbed an AoS Mortisan Soulmason and picked my own colors (sorry for the dark pictures! I need a better setup):     I feel like they're definitely a little sloppy in some places but I'm really enjoying painting so far! I think I might start building a Necron army and painting them with a similar red/black/gold scheme.
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Aug 13, 2021 01:45
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Looks good! Everyone's gotta start somewhere anyway and realistically "3 feet away" most things look good and the rest of the improvement is for your own satisfaction.
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Aug 13, 2021 02:06
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