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Levitate posted:probably didn't snug down the pinch bolt enough and the cable slipped I guess? That was my thought. Pinch bolt was a bit stripped though... who knows. He is rolling now.
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Aug 13, 2021 21:00
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Shouldn't have jinxed myself. Pretty sure my rear brake is leaking, lost all resistance over the course of the day so far, still brakes but I'm lever to bar for it. Hope I can fix it/find a replacement!
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Aug 13, 2021 21:10
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A big take away from this is is that alot of you have lovely local bike shops.
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Aug 13, 2021 21:25
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The first new bike I bought as an adult the shop didn’t assemble correctly and when I took it for a ride the front brake fully fell off approaching a stop sign. That was the least happy email I think I’ve ever written.
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Aug 13, 2021 21:40
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Recently snapped a chain for the first time half way up Eagle Mountain in BC. Used the edc chainbreaker in anger for the first time and it went pretty smoothly. I didn't have a spare quicklink so had to drop two links and then push the pin back in but it got the job done well.   The chain was a little too short after this but I had a replacement stockpiled at home and i'm using the old quicklink from the broken chain as a spare that gets to live in the EDC tool for the next time my dumb rear end tries to shift while under way too much load. TL DR edc tool owns.
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Aug 13, 2021 21:50
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Agree it is a good tool, I just wish it weren't called EDC.
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Aug 13, 2021 22:13
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Last 7 hours to get your pinkbike fantasy DH team in! https://www.pinkbike.com/contest/fantasy/dh/ And join the goon league:  by clicking this link.
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Aug 14, 2021 01:01
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Alright I joined. I am currently 1 of 2 riders in the Cat 3 Clydesdale class.
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Aug 14, 2021 02:26
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Steak posted:Alright I joined. I am currently 1 of 2 riders in the Cat 3 Clydesdale class. heck yeah. Have fun
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Aug 14, 2021 02:48
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i flunked out posted:A big take away from this is is that alot of you have lovely local bike shops. Even in north vancouver the bike shops are exclusively staffed by stoned teenagers just working there for pro deals. It's rare that any bike shop employee is useful in any way. I once took in my bike to a shop because the rear derailleur was completely fuckered and the bike needed an overall tuneup and they worked on the brakes and gave it back to me.. rear derailleur was in the same condition. Their response was "oooh, you need that looked at too?" You dumbass I pointed it out to you when I brought it in and said that's the priority and even if you forgot you didn't you notice the bike doesn't pedal at all? If they're able to form a complete sentence, that's the bike shop you want. bicievino posted:Agree it is a good tool, I just wish it weren't called EDC. Why's that? stratdax fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Aug 14, 2021 |
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Aug 14, 2021 07:25
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^ Probably because EDC/everydaycarry is associated with loser right wing people getting off on the SURVIVAL TOOLS they carry on them when driving to work as a middle sales manager or w/e. Let's see those teams! Pinkbike fantasy DH now locked. 
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Aug 14, 2021 08:25
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Aug 14, 2021 12:38
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VelociBacon posted:^ Probably because EDC/everydaycarry is associated with loser right wing people getting off on the SURVIVAL TOOLS they carry on them when driving to work as a middle sales manager or w/e. Yeah, it's this. I don't like the gun/army/military/cop connotations. Also why I don't like the SWAT box name.
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Aug 14, 2021 16:11
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mashed_penguin posted:Recently snapped a chain for the first time half way up Eagle Mountain in BC. Used the edc chainbreaker in anger for the first time and it went pretty smoothly. I didn't have a spare quicklink so had to drop two links and then push the pin back in but it got the job done well. Thank you for reminding me to grab a 12 speed power link. You only break a chain without a quick link handy once. It can be a day killer.
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Aug 14, 2021 17:37
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i flunked out posted:A big take away from this is is that alot of you have lovely local bike shops. Just to review and support some other people’s statements: IIRC the bike was shifting fine with the previous, likely factory installed, chain length. It was after his own intervention and increasing the length by several links, that shifting started to suffer. The clutch is also not absolutely required to be engaged while riding, and with a properly set up drivetrain, I do not think most people would notice if it were on or off during shifts.
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Aug 14, 2021 20:48
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I bought a 2013 Trek Marlin in 2016 when I lived in Dallas, and then didn't ride it because life sucked. $350 for the bike and a computer and mount (which I have packed up and don't know what kind or where it is). I moved to (near) Seattle end of 2019 and have started riding a little bit more since this spring. I've upgraded the factory pedals and grips and had a local reputable shop do a service that replaced the worn out chain, installed a PNW dropper post, trued the wheels, and replaced/adjusted worn brake and gear cables. All total I'm in the bike for probably $900 now, which is pretty good ROI compared to the amount of fun I've had on it since moving to Washington. Before I do anything else to the bike, it's pretty old so I may just buy a new bike instead. The only thing I think is somewhat pressing is the rear tire is going to need replaced within the next year. An eight year old bike is getting pretty ancient but it suits my needs just fine for now. Should I keep riding and upgrade it as I go, sell it and get a new ride, keep it and get a new ride? 
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Aug 15, 2021 00:09
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Finally broke a spoke. Wasn't even doing anything cool, just braking on pavement at the bottom of the big hill leaving my house. 
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Aug 15, 2021 01:36
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:I bought a 2013 Trek Marlin in 2016 when I lived in Dallas, and then didn't ride it because life sucked. $350 for the bike and a computer and mount (which I have packed up and don't know what kind or where it is). I moved to (near) Seattle end of 2019 and have started riding a little bit more since this spring. I've upgraded the factory pedals and grips and had a local reputable shop do a service that replaced the worn out chain, installed a PNW dropper post, trued the wheels, and replaced/adjusted worn brake and gear cables. All total I'm in the bike for probably $900 now, which is pretty good ROI compared to the amount of fun I've had on it since moving to Washington. Bike market is bonkers right now to the point that if you don't have to buy a new bike I'd probably wait. Sounds like you're happy with the bike, so get a new tire and wear that one out too.
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Aug 15, 2021 01:37
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Oh I wasn't trying to imply this wasn't his doing, just commenting on what others have said about their local shops. I love my local shop, there dudes there are all pretty great and they've rocked every time I've brought my bike in. I couldn't imagine having a local bike shop I couldn't rely on.
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Aug 15, 2021 03:11
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:I bought a 2013 Trek Marlin in 2016 when I lived in Dallas, and then didn't ride it because life sucked. $350 for the bike and a computer and mount (which I have packed up and don't know what kind or where it is). I moved to (near) Seattle end of 2019 and have started riding a little bit more since this spring. I've upgraded the factory pedals and grips and had a local reputable shop do a service that replaced the worn out chain, installed a PNW dropper post, trued the wheels, and replaced/adjusted worn brake and gear cables. All total I'm in the bike for probably $900 now, which is pretty good ROI compared to the amount of fun I've had on it since moving to Washington. I would get the new tire and keep riding it. Not sure I would put much more money into it outside of tires, break pads, and chains. Hopefully in 2023 bikes will be available again and you can pick up something then. In other news getting caught in a hail storm in the open is real ouchy.
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Aug 15, 2021 03:38
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:I bought a 2013 Trek Marlin in 2016 when I lived in Dallas, and then didn't ride it because life sucked. $350 for the bike and a computer and mount (which I have packed up and don't know what kind or where it is). I moved to (near) Seattle end of 2019 and have started riding a little bit more since this spring. I've upgraded the factory pedals and grips and had a local reputable shop do a service that replaced the worn out chain, installed a PNW dropper post, trued the wheels, and replaced/adjusted worn brake and gear cables. All total I'm in the bike for probably $900 now, which is pretty good ROI compared to the amount of fun I've had on it since moving to Washington. You'd basically be buying something that ends up being the same bike. If you want to move to full suspension or something that's another idea but just getting another hardtail... they're pretty similar despite the geometry and wheel size changes. e: Maribor DH is now live on red bull tv. Women already ran, men about to start. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 12:47 on Aug 15, 2021 |
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Aug 15, 2021 03:42
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Is there such a thing as a "longer" saddle? I'm loving the poo poo out of my new bike but my knee pain persists with the saddle pretty high. I find myself riding at the very back of the saddle. I adjusted the saddle so it's set on the back limit of the rails, but I had some pain today after about six miles. I saw this guide and I'm wondering if my saddle is too forward: https://www.bikefit.com/Images/images/H2FaB/imgH2FaB21.jpg Otherwise everything feels really good. My legs are nicely extended, and my arms don't feel compressed on the bars. I just feel like I want my butt to be a little farther back. But maybe that's what's causing the pain too; maybe I should be more forward. I'm on the verge of considering a bike fitting.
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Aug 15, 2021 20:09
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me your dad posted:Is there such a thing as a "longer" saddle? I'm loving the poo poo out of my new bike but my knee pain persists with the saddle pretty high. I find myself riding at the very back of the saddle. I adjusted the saddle so it's set on the back limit of the rails, but I had some pain today after about six miles. Do you really mean you set the saddle to the back limit of the rails? Or the front? Putting it on the back limit of the rails would mean that it’s mounted all the way forward… in which case, yeah seems feasible that it is indeed too far forward
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Aug 15, 2021 20:48
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Mexican Radio posted:when a bike is involved, if you're not sure you should do something it means you should do it I know the poster already signed up for the event (which is awesome), but this is eternal truth when it comes to bikes. Push yourself.
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Aug 15, 2021 22:05
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Steve French posted:Do you really mean you set the saddle to the back limit of the rails? Or the front? Putting it on the back limit of the rails would mean that it’s mounted all the way forward… in which case, yeah seems feasible that it is indeed too far forward I slid it back toward the rear wheel.
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Aug 15, 2021 22:32
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The little bony bump below your knee should line up vertically with the ball of your foot when it is at 3 o'clock. That's what I've always followed at least. Check saddle height by putting heel on the pedal at 6 o'clock. Leg should be fully extended pretty much. Otherwise you said you've had knee pain for a bit (you were the single speed guy, right?), could be over use and you just need to cut back for a bit possibly.
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Aug 16, 2021 00:49
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You can get a setback seatpost to go back even further but I do not recommend it till you sort your pain issue out.
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Aug 16, 2021 00:59
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Suburban Dad posted:The little bony bump below your knee should line up vertically with the ball of your foot when it is at 3 o'clock. That's what I've always followed at least. Check saddle height by putting heel on the pedal at 6 o'clock. Leg should be fully extended pretty much. Otherwise you said you've had knee pain for a bit (you were the single speed guy, right?), could be over use and you just need to cut back for a bit possibly. Thanks, that's a helpful thing to know. I'm beginning to honestly wonder if it's related to the fact that I don't stretch at all, and I've never really stretched at all in my life. I'm stiff as hell. I found this article, which features some stretches specifically for knee pain in the area where I have it. https://sportandspinalphysio.com.au/3-stretches-knee-pain-cyclists/ I'm going to start that regimen tomorrow and do it diligently. We're getting a ton of rain in the forecast so this is a good time to start. Last month I had to take about a month off the bike due to pneumonia and then a bad cut and my first ride after a month I had the pain. I was hoping the break was going to do me good. That's one reason I'm hoping stretching will help.
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Aug 16, 2021 03:09
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Suburban Dad posted:The little bony bump below your knee should line up vertically with the ball of your foot when it is at 3 o'clock. That's what I've always followed at least. Check saddle height by putting heel on the pedal at 6 o'clock. Leg should be fully extended pretty much. Otherwise you said you've had knee pain for a bit (you were the single speed guy, right?), could be over use and you just need to cut back for a bit possibly. That's Knee Over Pedal Spindle (KOPS) and it's controversial whether it's correct way to do things or not. There are many sources that say it's not the thing to strive for because every bike's geometry is different. I've never paid enough attention to say one way or another, I don't have a dog in this fight, but here's one example: https://sportcoaching.co.nz/kops-method-knee-over-pedal-spindle/ me your dad, check out that link, it has recommendations for if you're experiencing pain on the side, front, or bottom of your knee. But yes, stretching is the number 1 thing to do. Flexibility is important, that's a given.
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Aug 16, 2021 05:33
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stratdax posted:not the thing to strive for because every bike's geometry is different. For a given rider and a certain kind of riding, there's a good pedaling position that should be fit onto a bike, independent of its geometry, particularly the seat tube angle. But yeah, whether or that that posture needs to rely on KOPS is debated. I'd imagine especially if you're pedaling out of the saddle a lot.
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Aug 16, 2021 05:42
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stratdax posted:Even in north vancouver the bike shops are exclusively staffed by stoned teenagers just working there for pro deals. It's rare that any bike shop employee is useful in any way. For those in the lower mainland I've had great experiences at Kinetik in Coquitlam and IMBY in poco that just recently opened. IMBY only does service and parts / accessories but is a great addition to the region. IMBY the trail on the other hand can get hosed as I suck at tech climbs a lot. Is walking half the trail one dab if the walk is continuous or a dab per step ? mashed fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Aug 16, 2021 |
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Aug 16, 2021 06:23
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mashed_penguin posted:For those in the lower mainland I've had great experiences at Kinetik in Coquitlam and IMBY in poco that just recently opened. IMBY only does service and parts / accessories but is a great addition to the region. Kinetik and deep cove in north van have been good for me.
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Aug 16, 2021 07:55
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me your dad posted:Thanks, that's a helpful thing to know. Thanks for the link. Like you, I've also never really stretched and would get the knee pain. I never knew what the right stretches were since I was never really an athletic person. I will say, getting a new bike that fit me better pretty much eliminated my knee pain though. I only really get it now when I'm climbing something steep and forget to change down a few gears. Newbie question but any advice for sandy, curvy bits? The trail that the race is going to be on is very dry in some parts despite being in the woods in Wisconsin and I've already lost my front wheel and had to bail while riding it. I find myself slowing way down for those turns and it's frustrating when it's on a downhill part and I know, if it were good dirt, I could nail the corner. Steak fucked around with this message at 13:34 on Aug 16, 2021 |
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Aug 16, 2021 13:20
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Sand sucks. There's a lot in the lower peninsula of Michigan also. I just try to keep my weight in the middle while standing on the pedals and hang on. I have yet to figure out how to make it feel less sketchy, seems to be the nature of the beast.
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Aug 16, 2021 14:02
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Bend your elbows more than you think to get your weight more over your front tyre, get a bit low to keep the centre of gravity low and try not to brake in the corner itself. Lean the bike more than you lean your body as well. It's all about practice and learning where the limits of your grip are. Front wheel washouts are always awful and can really harm confidence in those types of corners.
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Aug 16, 2021 14:27
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I like the phrase "nips to grips" for getting my chest close to the bars.
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Aug 16, 2021 16:10
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Ok, yeah I just need my confidence back and I'll try to get lower. Thanks for the advice.
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Aug 16, 2021 17:12
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me your dad posted:Is there such a thing as a "longer" saddle? I'm loving the poo poo out of my new bike but my knee pain persists with the saddle pretty high. I find myself riding at the very back of the saddle. I adjusted the saddle so it's set on the back limit of the rails, but I had some pain today after about six miles. Selle SMP saddles get you the farthest back. Up to a couple cm over most other saddles. If you ride clipless, cleats all the way back on your shoes also increases setback. Setback seatpost gets you setback, but there's not a low of setback available on dropper posts. Modern MTB geometry with steep STA gets you less setback. KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) is a myth.
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Aug 16, 2021 18:41
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Steak posted:Ok, yeah I just need my confidence back and I'll try to get lower. Thanks for the advice. Getting lower is part of it, but you get low to keep the front weighted and to stay over the tires instead of lean with the bike. You can get low but be back and locked to the bike and have the same problem before you started to get low. If there's no weight on the front tire it won't have any traction and will 'push' and skid when you try to turn. If you lean back because you're scared this will happen, making you more scared and further off the back, etc etc. Leaning the bike over while you stay above it (easy to practice on flat asphalt to get the feeling) will keep you weight over the tires so if they start to slide they won't go out from under you as quickly. It's a weird one to figure out but once you so things will start to feel much better.
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Aug 16, 2021 19:19
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:Getting lower is part of it, but you get low to keep the front weighted and to stay over the tires instead of lean with the bike. You can get low but be back and locked to the bike and have the same problem before you started to get low. I took a lesson at Trestle about a month ago and this is all exactly what my instructor pointed out to me and that I worked on. Good stuff here. The other thing he said that ties in with this is the goal is to get your cornering blocks (on the edge of your tire) dug into whatever you’re turning through. So you’re tilting the bike independently and putting weight on the front tire to basically push those blocks into the dirt. Thinking of it that way helped me translate thought into body positioning as well. Riven fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Aug 16, 2021 |
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Aug 16, 2021 19:33
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