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Update: checking over the hotend and found problem #1: extruder gear has worked its way loose from the extruder motor shaft. That explains the blobs I’ve been getting… Tightening it down for now with a mental note to grab some loctite in the future. Self tests don’t show any problems with the Y axis, and belt tension feels good. Cold pulls to remove potential metal shavings next, then check heater block tightness. Edit: I just discovered 2 things: 1. The Y axis pulley had worked itself loose just like the extruder gear. 2. I had a fresh, unopened tube of blue loctite in the garage. Loctite your poo poo, folks. smax fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Aug 14, 2021 |
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Aug 14, 2021 02:23
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my turn in the barrel posted:I've always thought 3d printers were neat since reading about the first RepRap years ago. CNC Kitchen (REal materials tests), Makers Muse (Good reviews, solid advice), Thomas Sandalarar (General projects, good reviews, good filament reviews, solid opinoins), BillieRubin (Artsy side of things), 3d printing nerd (A man playing with toys. It's great), SexyCyborg (Usually bleeding edge stuff, she's in shenzen so sees the stuff first), Proper Printing (Nerd pushing the edges of tech), Nero3dp (Practical printing advice, uses high end printers). That'll get you started. Things to avoid: TeachingTech (the reasons are long), Design Prototype Test (videos are mostly rant, with only rare nuggets of information, and lots of self ego stroking), really... most anything else..... It's uncommon to find "good" advice on 3d printing, and most of it is really quite, astoundingly, bad. You want the 3d benchy, as that's one of the best ways to tell if you're printer is working right. it'll help you diagnose ~most~ printer problems. Don't break out the PETG until the PLA is actually playing nice. PETG is a significant step up in difficulty, at least if you want "easy to use" prints after you've printed. And I am currently printing some parts for my Canik TS9. Some 2 round mag extensions, and a magwell flare. Ask here for advice. The stuff here.. is usually good. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Aug 14, 2021 |
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Aug 14, 2021 03:06
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I've got a print with a bunch of bridges. Cura's bridge settings detected and understood most of them GREAT but there's a couple big ones it's running into and completely eating paste in the corner in the most confusing manner Example 1: this is what's below the bridge (ie, enough to attach to on all sides)  Obviously it should bridge across the short gap, but instead:  for scale, that's like 4 inches, so this is just going to waste plastic and fail. Example 2:  I even specifically put that piece down the middle to make the gap it had to bridge extra short, and it won't use it. There is no setting whatsoever to control bridge direction. This is actively worse than not using the bridge settings, except turning them off will gently caress up a handful of other bridges that it didn't have trouble with. What am I missing here? E: Supports in these locations would be a horror to cleanly remove so that's out e2: I tried to break up that skin area in the model so it would HAVE to cross the short way. instead, it made a tiny bridge on each end the CORRECT way and then resumed doing the bridge as wrong as possible for the rest of the skin. this app is putting sincere effort into loving this up  Javid fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Aug 14, 2021 |
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Aug 14, 2021 04:28
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Nerobro posted:Things to avoid: TeachingTech (the reasons are long)... I'm curious about the reasons for this
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Aug 14, 2021 10:21
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How do we feel about gyroid infill below 25%
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Aug 14, 2021 10:36
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Javid posted:I've got a print with a bunch of bridges. Cura's bridge settings
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Aug 14, 2021 10:53
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After 8 months of printing, I finally got a bad spool of filament. MG Chemicals Wood....The vacuum seal wasn't very good. First print was stringy as hell. Threw the spool into the oven on the lowest heat for about 6 hours and it printed nearly perfectly on the same gcode.
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Aug 14, 2021 13:10
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smax posted:Update: checking over the hotend and found problem #1: extruder gear has worked its way loose from the extruder motor shaft. That explains the blobs I’ve been getting… Printed a Benchy, looked great until it exploded trying to do the bridges on the cabin of the boat. That’s a new one. It’s happily printing the brackets I was originally trying to make now, I’ll have to dig up a bridging test file at some point.
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Aug 14, 2021 17:14
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Switched from ABS to PLA for a non-structural piece. Easier to remove from bed, and better finish on the surface in contact with the bed. Super-glues to the ABS enclosure. Going to add some load-bearing parts in the same color, but in ABS, solvent-welded. (Eg mounting hooks).  Could probably take advantage of the large bed with uneveness-compensation to print many more at once, but keeping the print towards the center for now.
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Aug 14, 2021 20:55
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TastyShrimpPlatter posted:I'm curious about the reasons for this Contrary to his name he doesn't "teach". His videos have a habit of being so tightly trimmed that there's no learning availble. It's a "here's what I did" but it's hollow, it shows none of where he went to learn the information, and doesn't usually cover any of his mistakes. And he essentially never does a useful explanation of what happened when things do go wrong. I believe his most recent videos might be somewhat better. But he's got years of stuff up there that is borderline ~bad~. Often in his video's it's obvious he has an idea of what he's doing, but doesn't explain. It's... empty content. "I did X-Y-Z isn't it neat, now you do it" But never shows the important how you do it. Or "here's ow to fix X" but never explains the cuases or why ~not~ to use the fix later. Getting a really good explanation of why he's ~so bad~ takes a lot of time, as I need to go watch a half dozen videos and take notes. But ~every single video~ does the same things where he screws up, or fails to explain a thing. He jumps to conclusions without explaining the justifications. He tells you to do X and leaves you hanging as to why. Or.. sometimes just gets it plain wrong. He also comes to "conclusions" based on very bad input data, and never addresses it. So, some examples to cover my butt because this just sounds like rants of a madman: In his printing in enclosures video, his tests were single tests, he didn't control enclosure temperature, and then didn't change the print settings for any material he used. And the conclusions he came to, are just.. wrong.. compared to say like.. an ultimater or voron. Ender 3 upgrade video, where he just threw poo poo at an ender. Things he said were essential and important upgrades, and came to a printer that didn't work any better. But why? why not. He didn't examine anything. These "upgrade" videos he did, have eaten a lot of my time because they were "things to do" not things that help at all. The BTT board upgrade, he talked about installing controllers, and this has caught a couple of my friends, where they installed new drivers, and they didn't work. you can't use a silent driver on the extruder because of a software issue in marlin. and he DID NOT MENTION THIS. This ate hours, and hours of time of me trying to help friends sort out their things. Among others..... I am not sure I am mad at him. But I am definitely sure he should not be watched as a noob at printing because so much of his material needs ~deep and broad~ knowledge on how printing works so you don't fall down the holes he's happily skipping over. And when you're at that point, why are you watching his noob level videos? Go watch CNC Kitchen and learn something useful real. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Aug 14, 2021 |
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Aug 14, 2021 22:25
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Which one was the covid denier from the previous thread?
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Aug 14, 2021 22:37
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Which one was the covid denier from the previous thread? This isn't direct.... But things that make me uncomfortable. Ben Heck is a covid fatalist. EEVblog is in some kind of weird limbo. AvE is either fatalist or denier. I'm interested in this answer too.
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Aug 14, 2021 22:52
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Nerobro posted:This isn't direct.... But things that make me uncomfortable. aVe just has big oil worker energy. Worst case he's probably just your average well meaning uncle with a bad opinion or 2 in there
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Aug 14, 2021 23:22
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wnYcYb1YRw TL;DW, the PET side of a laminating pocket can be used in place of the FEP in an ultra-violet resin printer apparently. Has anyone tried this themselves? Edit: UV is ultra-violet, not ultra-violent.
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Aug 15, 2021 04:35
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Dunno but I saw a video where a guy did it and it worked pretty well. Upside is cheap replacement fep. Downside is the whole heating it up in the oven thing.
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Aug 15, 2021 07:44
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I watched that video back when I first got my printer and looked into it, and if you're going to try PET sheets don't waste your time on laminating pouches - you can find PET transparency sheets and save yourself the hassle of dealing with the glue. In my experience, PET does technically work but is a lot more finicky than FEP. I have some as backup for if I run out of FEP and can't source any immediately, but I use FEP as my normal vat material. PET isn't elastic like FEP, so getting the tension right is a pain, and you're much more likely to tear it during installation. I found it's much more grippy as well, and it would consistently rip prints off the print bed unless I coated it in silicone spray release (and that would last a random amount of prints before I needed to recoat the PET, so I was dealing with more failed prints than I would with FEP). I also worry that the fail state of PET might be a bit more dramatic than FEP - it feels likely that damage that would cause FEP to spring a single point leak would cause the PET to tear and dump out the entire vat of resin. I don't have any evidence for that though, it's just my impression after handing both materials under tension.
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Aug 15, 2021 07:51
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A few of us picked up an Ender 3X or Pro in TFR when a sale happened. This Monoprice PLA/PLA+ is on sale, anyone have experience with it? https://slickdeals.net/f/15221368-1kg-monoprice-mp-select-pla-1-75mm-3d-printer-filament-various-colors-12-35-ships-free-on-39?v=1 I wasn't sure how good of a deal it was other than the price history charts on Amazon look good. I figured being Monoprice it's not bad at a minimum. Also if I live in a low-humidity place (like Central Valley of California) where the air conditioning is running a lot, how much effort do I need to put into storage for PLA? Just a ziplock or airtight box? Or do I need to drop in desiccant still? I'll probably drop in with more questions once I get my printer together and start messing with it.
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Aug 15, 2021 14:45
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Just put them on a ziplock freezer bag that’s big enough and drop a desiccant in if you have one. Filament always comes with one so it’s not costing you anything and while it may not recondition a roll, it certainly doesn’t hurt anything.
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Aug 15, 2021 15:02
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I also live in a dry climate with a/c, I've just been keeping them in their boxes with the desiccant packs when not in use. Haven't had moisture issues of any kind (yet, we'll see what happens in November when it starts raining)
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Aug 15, 2021 22:06
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if you're just reusing the packets that came with the spool, they're probably saturated and not doing anything
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Aug 15, 2021 22:42
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Do I need to run them through my dehydrator or something? (Spools or packets, really)
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Aug 15, 2021 23:08
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been beating my head against a wall for a couple days trying to get some stuff done. come to find out my plate is bowl shaped (all of a sudden), moved the print over to a corner and it flew right through
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Aug 15, 2021 23:09
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Javid posted:Do I need to run them through my dehydrator or something? (Spools or packets, really) Yes, but if you're serious about it, get this so you'll know when to: https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Desiccan...29065455&sr=8-3 You can print containers for it, preferably out of clear filament so you can see the color better. Also, in my experience, the silica gel lasts longer in an airtight tote than it did when I was using freezer bags.
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Aug 15, 2021 23:21
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Another tip, superglue is water activated, store it with silica gel
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Aug 15, 2021 23:30
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Ender 3 v2 talk - So as I noted a few pages, back, my Prusa isn't enough drama for me and my kids demand toys, so I bought an Ender 3 v2 in an attempt to scratch my tinkering itch and double my output of articulated manatees. I also got some upgrades with coupon tomfoolery and everything finally arrived yesterday. I got it built and have done a few prints over the last few hours. Upgrades that are currently in place are an aluminum extruder, some Capricorn PTFE, upgraded PTFE couplers, and yellow bed springs. I'm running the latest Jyers/Marlin firmware. Otherwise, it's a stock E3v2. Mainboard is v4.2.2. I'm spoiled by my Prusa's PEI sheet I guess, because holy smokes I am not in love with scraping prints off this glass (Hamburlgar was right, sticks like hot poo poo to a diaper). I'm looking pretty hard at TH3D's EZFlex 2 setup - are there any others that I should consider? Features I'm looking for are easy removal of the print, and easy removal of the print surface for cleaning. I feel like there's still a decent amount of debate as to whether or not BLTouch is worth it on these machines. Anyone here in the E3 crew running BLTouch and have an opinion? Edit - Fixed Hamburlgar's name, had misspelled it in original. becoming fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Aug 16, 2021 |
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Aug 15, 2021 23:45
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becoming posted:I'm spoiled by my Prusa's PEI sheet I guess, because holy smokes I am not in love with scraping prints off this glass (Hamburgular was right, sticks like hot poo poo to a diaper). I'm looking pretty hard at TH3D's EZFlex 2 setup - are there any others that I should consider? Features I'm looking for are easy removal of the print, and easy removal of the print surface for cleaning. quote:I feel like there's still a decent amount of debate as to whether or not BLTouch is worth it on these machines. Anyone here in the E3 crew running BLTouch and have an opinion?
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Aug 15, 2021 23:51
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becoming posted:I feel like there's still a decent amount of debate as to whether or not BLTouch is worth it on these machines. Anyone here in the E3 crew running BLTouch and have an opinion? I am. It works fine, but I wouldn’t bother with it if I was setting things up again.
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Aug 15, 2021 23:55
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For just PLA, hairspray on the glass is 11/10. I was extremely resistant to dealing with the extra consumable and spraying/cleaning logistics, but it absolutely solved all my problems.
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Aug 15, 2021 23:57
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Kalman posted:I am. It works fine, but I wouldn’t bother with it if I was setting things up again. Same and agreed.
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Aug 16, 2021 01:09
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I have a glass plate, never had any trouble with it at all until recently. I made sure to never scrape it with anything harder than my fingernail though.
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Aug 16, 2021 01:10
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Javid posted:For just PLA, hairspray on the glass is 11/10. I was extremely resistant to dealing with the extra consumable and spraying/cleaning logistics, but it absolutely solved all my problems. which hairspray? i use got2b for cosplay already but that feels like overkill
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Aug 16, 2021 01:14
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Deviant posted:which hairspray? i use got2b for cosplay already but that feels like overkill Aquanet sounds familiar. There are definitely specific brands to use though so don't go nuts
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Aug 16, 2021 01:31
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w00tmonger posted:Aquanet sounds familiar. There are definitely specific brands to use though so don't go nuts You want "cheap" stuff. Aquanet is, essentially PVA disolved in alcohol, IIRC. Cheap brands are going to be similar.
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Aug 16, 2021 01:45
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The TH3d springsteel with their EZmat is the way to go. PLA sticks like hot poo poo to the EZMat too, but with the help of the steel flex plate, will pop right off when flexed. I don’t run a BLT or EZAbl. With the silicon bed springs, I level my bed once a month or so. I do make sure to play with the Z-babystepping for the first layer of every print though. The Z micro switch on the Ender 3 is a little funky in that sometimes the printhead will print higher than the auto-home position.
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Aug 16, 2021 02:02
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my Gmax2 has a BLtouch, and the only trouble I ever really had with it was when it got a bit wang-jangled during a bad print. The probe got a bit bent and I figured it'd be fine if I just bent it back.... it was not. After replacing it with a new probe, it was fine. The print bed is glass and came with BuildTak on it, but after a while, I took the BuildTak off... the scars from the scraper were showing in the prints and I didn't like it. I now print directly to the glass, and put it at a low heat with some Elmer's washable glue on there, and I haven't had any problems. I know a lot of people swear by hairspray, but it's in a shared office environment, and I find the particulates and smell really offputting, so I ain't going that route unless I find a profound problem.
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Aug 16, 2021 03:16
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Deviant posted:which hairspray? i use got2b for cosplay already but that feels like overkill are you in Canada? Apparently got2b is Canadian Aquanet. I've had better luck with Alberto Mega Hold
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Aug 16, 2021 03:31
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CommonShore posted:are you in Canada? Apparently got2b is Canadian Aquanet. no i'm american. got2b glued is super duty hold for cosplay wig spikes and such. it's some serious poo poo, and probably too much for this
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Aug 16, 2021 04:10
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I use aquanet and I like it.
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Aug 16, 2021 04:19
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the advice I was given was "the cheapest hairspray available locally" so I spent $2 at the dollar general for a can I have yet to meaningfully deplete in months
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Aug 16, 2021 04:55
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becoming posted:I feel like there's still a decent amount of debate as to whether or not BLTouch is worth it on these machines. Anyone here in the E3 crew running BLTouch and have an opinion?. My experience with Marlin and the probe on an Ender3 v2 I was given was very sub-par. Put Klipper on there, and you'll wonder why people live without a bed probe. If you do go that path, make sure you look into the bed screw leveling and the nozzle calibration. ABL/UBL and z stepping are not the same thing at all.
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Aug 16, 2021 08:42
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