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Alright, which one of you is secretly this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCh2GTjlJvA&t=483s Mustache Ride fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Aug 15, 2021 |
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Aug 15, 2021 19:02
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MrYenko posted:Hey tool goons, I’m in the planning stages of running a compressed air hardline for one of those nifty air line spools. I’m planning on connecting that, and having a second QD for a regular hose, in case I need that (I already have a regular hose,) but is there anything else I should be looking at doing? Is a drier worth it? Should I put in a condensate drain? Am I an idiot? I have a hardline running up the wall and halfway across the garage to a retractable spool. I have never wished I'd put in a drain or a drier so unless you live in a swamp or have a much longer run like a shop would have you should be fine. Also, love having it and would never go back.
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Aug 15, 2021 19:21
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Along with an air dryer (I'd have one if I was going through the trouble and had the budget) there are line lubricators which are great for the high rpm stuff like die grinders. I used to work in a manufacturing environment that used both and when the lubricant ran out the die grinder would die after maybe 5 hours of total use. The line drier didn't have to be maintained very much, but the incoming line was pure nitrogen. We had an Ingersoll Rand combination unit like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ARO-C38341-600-VS-Air-Filter-Regulator-Lubricator-Combination/dp/B002PHXB52/ The one we had also had a regulator.
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Aug 15, 2021 19:27
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Mustache Ride posted:Alright, which one of you is secretly this? every one of us
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Aug 15, 2021 20:18
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Mustache Ride posted:Alright, which one of you is secretly this? By coincidence I watched him put brake lines together this morning and I knew I liked him when he said it's a law that you'll forget one nut before flaring it.
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Aug 15, 2021 21:04
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Cat Hatter posted:…so unless you live in a swamp or have a much longer run like a shop would have you should be fine. South Florida. So, kinda.  um excuse me posted:Along with an air dryer (I'd have one if I was going through the trouble and had the budget) there are line lubricators which are great for the high rpm stuff like die grinders. I used to work in a manufacturing environment that used both and when the lubricant ran out the die grinder would die after maybe 5 hours of total use. The line drier didn't have to be maintained very much, but the incoming line was pure nitrogen. We had an Ingersoll Rand combination unit like this one: Ya, I don’t run air tools at that kind of duty cycle, but I’ve used these kinds of systems before too, and they loving rule. I’m gonna have to think on that.
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Aug 15, 2021 22:10
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Mustache Ride posted:Alright, which one of you is secretly this? I am Spartacus
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Aug 15, 2021 22:26
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Some people who are better at project management subscribe to the 90/10 rule of project management. First 90% of the project takes 10% of the time, last 10% takes 90% of the time. Others are on the 90/90 plan. The first 90% takes 90% of the time, the rest takes the next 90% of the time. Me, I find myself on the 90/900 plan far too often
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Aug 16, 2021 04:09
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MrYenko posted:South Florida. So, kinda. I personally skipped the lubricator as it eliminates the hose for ever spraying paint or using a media blaster on it. I just add a drop to the toll as I remember. You will want to add condensate drains to the lowest parts of all your hardline. So instead of using an elbow to your reel, use a tee and add a ball valve on the bottom, so you can bleed out water. You also might want to make an air drier out of some zig zag copper pipe, right off the compressor itself to help cool the air charge and subsequently drop out moisture. Your impact and die grinders may not care, but if you ever do any blasting, you will be glad.
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Aug 16, 2021 04:24
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Just realized I forgot to brag about my newest tool acquisition. In typical fashion as a tool pervert, I noted that the alligator clamps on my jumper cables were shot because I own too many shitboxes that need jumping too often. So I spent 10 bucks at the parts store for a new set of clamps, got them home and found out they need to be crimped on with what's known as an "open ferrule", "open barrel splice", "w-profile crimp", or "B-profile crimp" type crimper depending on who is talking. Not the more typical closed ferrule style that you can use a hammer crimper, hydraulic crimper, etc on. I have one, but it only goes to about 14awg and I needed to crimp 4awg or 2awg. So rather than just buying a new set of jumper cables for like, 20 bucks, I spent 41 on a set of iwiss IWS-8200A B-profile crimpers on Amazon, so I could crimp 10 bucks worth of new clamps on. They're really drat good quality for 41 dollars. If you showed me these crimpers I would guess they cost 200+. If you need to crimp very large (9AWG through 2AWG) open barrel crimps, this is the tool to buy.
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Aug 16, 2021 06:50
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Torque Test Channel is putting out some really good content lately. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gw_ePOeOXcY
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Aug 16, 2021 17:33
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EVERYWHERE 
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Anyone have a recommendation for an adapter to turn a floor jack into a transmission jack? Or are those things no good? It feels like it should be doable and cost a lot less to ship than a full jack (nearest Harbor Freight is hours away), but I've never looked into it.
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Aug 16, 2021 19:16
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You mean a ratchet strap? Honestly, having used both ... if you can, you should get the transmission jack. They give a LOT of stability that floor jacks will never have.
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Aug 16, 2021 19:21
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I was looking at this thing, it seemed pretty similar in size to a floor jack but maybe I'm wrong, I haven't seen one in person. I thought maybe there's a way to replace the little round support of a floor jack with a plate like that one has. https://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-60234.html
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Aug 16, 2021 19:31
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In addition to the top plate, the width of the base on the standard jack is what makes them janky. A true transmission jack will be quite a bit wider to help with stability over a regular floor jack.
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Aug 16, 2021 19:38
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I have the HF trans jack and it has been great for the intended purpose but also anything that is large that needs lifting without putting dents in it like fuel tanks.
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Aug 16, 2021 19:57
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Yup. I have the scissor-jack version and I've used it once to swap the transfer case on the TJ, multiple times to deal with removing/installing the center skid plate and the fuel tank.
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Aug 16, 2021 20:03
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I was looking at this thing, it seemed pretty similar in size to a floor jack but maybe I'm wrong, I haven't seen one in person. I thought maybe there's a way to replace the little round support of a floor jack with a plate like that one has. slidebite posted:In addition to the top plate, the width of the base on the standard jack is what makes them janky. A true transmission jack will be quite a bit wider to help with stability over a regular floor jack. I've got the lower model and used it for the second go-round of pulling my fuel tank, did it the first time with a floor jack. The trans jack handled it enormously better.
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Aug 16, 2021 20:13
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Anybody pushed that Harbor Freight scissor transmission jack to 400 pounds or more? I generally consider the HF weight ratings to be optimistic but I may need to pull a transmission + transfer case combo that’s approaching 400 pounds.
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Aug 16, 2021 20:25
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It seems stout enough that I think it can probably handle 400 pounds. The closest to "problem" it might have is how hard you're going to have to reef on the ratchet you're driving it with when you start lifting it back into the vehicle.
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Aug 16, 2021 20:33
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I don’t have any plans to put any automatics back into anything. Down only. 
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Aug 16, 2021 20:44
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Manual valve body with ratchet shifters have grown on me with a big old barge. As for the scissor jack if it fails it will just jam rather than if a hydraulic or fails and just dump whatever it is carrying onto whatever is under it. Wouldn’t be as worried as long as it is stable from falling.
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Aug 16, 2021 20:49
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Advent Horizon posted:I don’t have any plans to put any automatics back into anything. Down only. The only reason I bought my transmission jack was to put a NV3500 back in after I couldn't get it lined up, I've only used it for gas tanks since then. Back to compressed air talk what are the best options for shop air distribution? Is something like rapidair going to be the best bet?
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Aug 16, 2021 21:19
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SpeedFreek posted:The only reason I bought my transmission jack was to put a NV3500 back in after I couldn't get it lined up, I've only used it for gas tanks since then. If by "shop" you mean your garage or shed where you work, just solder some copper water pipes together. They're cheap and widely available. If you actually have a full on shop that's going to have multiple runs etc then maybe.
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Aug 16, 2021 21:27
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I haven't done 400 but if you mean the one 22 Eargesplitten posted, I've had 300 (nv4500 plus an np241, both full of fluid) on it and it didn't even blink. I'd be pretty comfortable putting 500+ on it I think.
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Aug 16, 2021 21:32
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SpeedFreek posted:The only reason I bought my transmission jack was to put a NV3500 back in after I couldn't get it lined up, I've only used it for gas tanks since then. Copper or iron pipe. Copper is the best, IMHO. See my posts for photos of my install here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3823532&userid=43123 sharkytm fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Aug 16, 2021 |
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Aug 16, 2021 22:06
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Advent Horizon posted:I don’t have any plans to put any automatics back into anything. Down only. It binds like a motherfucker with just a skid plate or NP231 on it at minimum height. I suspect it could use some more/better grease.
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Aug 16, 2021 22:19
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Anyone happen to have tried anything like one of these super cheap coolant vacuum kits? The $75 or whatever HF charges for the same thing is a bit much considering how rarely I would use it, but $15 to not have to massage radiator hoses to remove air pockets sounds like a hell of a deal. E: Well now that I look closer, $15 + whatever ridiculous shipping, or like $40 bucks ACUTALLY shipped is making me much less interested. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Aug 16, 2021 |
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Aug 16, 2021 22:19
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I used one to one man bleed brakes and it was fine.
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Aug 16, 2021 22:37
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RE: transmission jacks The car lift/hoist combined with a hydraulic lift table and wood cribbing is super versatile.
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Aug 16, 2021 23:04
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Cat Hatter posted:If by "shop" you mean your garage or shed where you work, just solder some copper water pipes together. They're cheap and widely available. If you actually have a full on shop that's going to have multiple runs etc then maybe. The garage and basement for now, if I could send something through a 1" conduit I could have air in the greenhouse for tires or something. I probably will have about 4 outlets in the garage and 2 or 3 in the basement. I'll price out copper, I don't want to deal with rust in my air lines.
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Aug 17, 2021 00:56
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Lowclock posted:Anyone happen to have tried anything like one of these super cheap coolant vacuum kits? The $75 or whatever HF charges for the same thing is a bit much considering how rarely I would use it, but $15 to not have to massage radiator hoses to remove air pockets sounds like a hell of a deal. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-c...e=google&wv=3.1 Something like this has always been my go-to. I've tried the vac style and it never seemed to get 100% so there was always still fiddling with that last air pocket.
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Aug 17, 2021 12:21
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Gas cans. Right now I’m hauling 3x5gallon plastic jugs to the QT with my hatchback when I need to fill up the mower and it’s a whole ordeal. I can only fill up one jug directly from the pump because the other two have glued-in mesh screens that trigger the shutoff on the pump, so I’m transferring can-to-can with my one pre-regulation can at the station. The spouts have a whole other set of problems, so I end up with gas all everything when I pour into the mower. I know there are new rules, but are there still plastic cans that don’t suck? Should I just cry once and buy $80 Justrite metal type-II cans? I could probably get a 20+ gallon gas cart for the same price as 3xJustrites, but it seems like those either aren’t approved for road transport, or are gravity-feed-only for filling a boat from a raised dock.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:01
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Is a steam pressure washer for cleaning an engine bay something I should rent? I see some are about $100 but the larger ones are easily 10x more. I assume the cheap ones are crap, but maybe someone has tried one?
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Aug 19, 2021 20:08
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eddiewalker posted:I know there are new rules, but are there still plastic cans that don’t suck? https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fu...29400116&sr=8-4
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Aug 19, 2021 20:09
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You’re my hero.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:22
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Bummer, I was going to link my Moeller Briggs and Stratton 5 Gallon Water Can which is definitely a water vessel and not a preregulation gas can colored blue, but I think they got in trouble because I cannot find it or a clone anywhere.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:39
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The mesh screen is the worst part. I can’t figure out how to fill the new cans at all. The pump just shuts off immediately. I see they also changed the threads on the new cans so I can’t put an old spout on them.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:50
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eddiewalker posted:The mesh screen is the worst part. I can’t figure out how to fill the new cans at all. The pump just shuts off immediately. I haven't seen the new plastic ones with a mesh screen, but back in 90s we had to get metal cans with screen in them for commercial use. They were some manner of OSHA approved, and our insurance company required we use them. Same deal, it would take like 5 minutes to fill a 5 gallon can because you essentially had to drip the gas in from the pump. This got annoying enough that we put 100 gallon fuel tanks with pumps underneath the toolboxes of the pickups. That had none of those screen and poo poo. So surely it was much safer/less insurance risk to drive around with those than to let us use our old cans that actually worked. Insurance companies are brain geniuses. Also, on the new plastic cans that are to prevent spilling fuel: I've never spilled more fuel than when trying to use various styles of those cans. The only anti-spill can I've ever used that actually works is this massively overpriced thing (but I love it and it was totally worth the price): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T031DAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Aug 19, 2021 21:27
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I have zero complaints about this style can: No-Spill 1450 5-Gallon Poly Gas Can (CARB Compliant) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W9JN4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V1NZGMTRQ8QC6657AB6S I actually prefer them to the pre-emissions cans.
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Aug 19, 2021 22:07
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