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I knew it was close to done already, noticed the cord showing at work, thankfully have many other bikes that need riding. bike is at 104xxx miles so I dont care too much about appearance at this point.
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Aug 14, 2021 02:14
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Nofeed posted:Baby’s first oil change Today I changed the brake fluid in all my bikes, and drained the snot tube on one of them. Less santorum than usual this time, mostly watery distillates. Enjoy: https://ulfheim.net/files/snottube.mov
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Aug 14, 2021 02:53
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 Bike has a complete subframe to carry its fairings again! This also means... MIRRORS! Without the windshield and the fairing, they look quite idiotic, but once the rest of the plastics are in place it'll be fine  At the very least it's a lot more functional than the single tiny mirror mounted on the left handle bar.
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Aug 14, 2021 15:00
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Double rounds FTW
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Aug 14, 2021 15:23
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Yeah, the dual rounds are one of the main reasons why i got this thing. There are quite a lot of FZR600's available here, almost all under €1500, but the dual round version is not as easy to find. Also, you see that round hole in the chassis, behind the hole for the coolant hose? A RAM AIR DUCT IS GONNA GO IN THERE! Abolutely 100% pointless, it does not suck any air into there at all, but i'm probably gonna shell out 30 bucks for those hoses anyway because oh gently caress yeaaaaa this is a 90s bike that goes nyoom.
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Aug 14, 2021 22:33
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Chris Knight posted:Double rounds FTW Truer words never spoken etc etc
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Aug 15, 2021 17:53
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Tiny upgrade but I added a stem mount for my phone. gently caress it makes a big difference having a map / navigation in front of you. Guess I should get an anti vibration thing so it doesn't shake my camera to death. 
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Aug 15, 2021 19:18
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Breaking in the 96 CID engine for the Dyna is done and it got tuned up as well after that, 107hp and loadsa torks, should be good
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Aug 16, 2021 05:12
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Chris Knight posted:Double rounds FTW Are double rounds the popups of motorcycling? No oldwing update because I haven't gotten off my rear end to replace the broken off plate. Although I did learn that the DMV now has a virtual line so you can register at home and head over when you get close. That's... incredible? Is there a catch? I went riding with the dad of one of my daughter's friends. He's got a CBF600, I was on my TLS. It was fun but he is not a good rider. Like running wide on multiple curves with double yellows. He even crossed the right side line a few times. Oh and no gloves or boots or even proper pants. I'm tempted to drop off my copy of A Twist of the Wrist and hope it prolongs his life a bit. I noticed a nice breeze on my right foot on the way up the mountain. When I got to the top I saw the sole had peeled halfway off. Cobbler time!
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Aug 16, 2021 06:43
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Places a sudden fresh breeze is cause for alarm: -Motorcycle boots -Spaceships -Your legs just before you have to give this big presentation to your grade 9 social studies class, even though it's been twenty years since grade 9
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Aug 16, 2021 06:48
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AnnoyBot posted:Are double rounds the popups of motorcycling? Popups are the popups of motorcycling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fbwayW4cZk&t=30s
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Aug 16, 2021 06:53
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Renaissance Robot posted:Popups are the popups of motorcycling. Man this seems like such a good idea for dualsport until a branch smacks into your delicate plastic gear driven pop up light rendering it unusable until you pay a mechanic $700
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Aug 16, 2021 12:59
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Popups are not a good idea in any situation and only ever existed at all due to regulations about the minimum height of headlights clashing with low-slung 70s sports cars. They're cool as hell though so who gives a gently caress  
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Aug 16, 2021 13:47
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Renaissance Robot posted:They're cool as hell though so who gives a gently caress this, basically.
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Aug 16, 2021 14:01
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Reason number 5 trillion why Honda Elites are great https://youtu.be/oUOJKJyt2Kw
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Aug 16, 2021 14:55
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Renaissance Robot posted:Popups are not a good idea in any situation and only ever existed at all due to regulations about the minimum height of headlights clashing with low-slung 70s sports cars.
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Aug 16, 2021 18:40
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Ulf posted:We would still have them of it weren’t for later regulations about pedestrian safety. They were still on the NA miatas through the 90s. Some impractical things will still exist on cars (and bikes) in the name of being rad as heck. gently caress yeah. Single sided swingarms became obsolete decades ago yet Ducati still have one on their sbk bike because sacrificing a little performance is worth tripling the cool factor.
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Aug 16, 2021 20:39
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How were they ever useful in a performance sense and how did they become obsolete?
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Aug 16, 2021 21:09
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Quick wheel swaps in endurance racing? idk
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Aug 16, 2021 21:20
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:How were they ever useful in a performance sense and how did they become obsolete? Rapid wheel changes in endurance racing, also one huge forged chunk was stiffer and lighter than your average 80's welded together monstrosity. Eventually stamped alloy swingarms became possible, which are much lighter for a given stiffness, and the SSA lost a bit of luster. Bottom-fill casting was the real death sentence because it's now possible to make an absolutely optimal design with no compromise for stamping or forging, and with barely any welding. Much much lighter, with more finely targeted flex characteristics. I guess carbon fiber can redress the balance and make it relevant again, but not even Ducati have bothered to do this yet. I suspect the panigale v4 will debut one soon, because their main problem in sbk seems to be tyre conservation in adverse conditions and a carbon swingarm can be a useful tool for addressing problems like that.
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Aug 16, 2021 21:39
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After my experience getting stranded last week I replaced the battery in the CBR. Holding the nuts inside the terminals while attaching the leads and Optimate wires was a huge pain. I ended up stuffing bit of plastic bag in the terminal to keep the nut in place, felt like I was totally bodging it but there you go. Anyway the voltage looks a lot better (this is on the Optimate but w/e)   I also installed an anti vibration thing for my new phone mount. Going to pick up an actual phone case to attach straight to it this afternoon.  e: well the bike started fine, restarting after picking up the case from the shop was a little slow, and then when I got home I saw the voltage was a little low, 11.8V. Should I be worried? knox_harrington fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 15:42
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1. Put the nuts in the battery, then put the screws in the nuts, then put the battery in the bike, then take the screws out one at a time as you fit the leads. You're welcome. 2. Dashboard voltage meters usually mean nothing. I would verify that with a multimeter, if it's actually that low you probably have a problem of some kind. I'm also sorry to say that despite fitting in the hole, if I'm reading those numbers right that is a very small and not powerful battery, I would think nowhere near adequate for a 1000cc bike.
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Aug 17, 2021 20:35
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It's the specified battery for the bike. 
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Aug 17, 2021 20:45
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That is amazingly small but I guess efficiency gains make it work ok? Or they just didn't have much space. Regardless if it's right it's right but less than 12v is pretty bad, check the charging voltage with a multimeter.
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Aug 17, 2021 20:50
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Slavvy posted:That is amazingly small but I guess efficiency gains make it work ok? Or they just didn't have much space. Regardless if it's right it's right but less than 12v is pretty bad, check the charging voltage with a multimeter. I went out to get a covid travel test and a multimeter and it was totally fine. I also went to the Ducati garage and got totally ignored so left after 15 minutes of getting increasingly annoyed.
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Aug 18, 2021 10:42
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I saved the worst for last. Putting "sync'ing V4 carbs" in my never again category. What is a pretty easy job on most bikes is, in typical carbed V4 fashion, an absolute nightmare on the VFR. There's a reason working on these bikes is so expensive. Here are the adjusting screws for the front two carbs: That is looking through the frame spars up underneath the carbs, you can see the drain screws for the front two bowls on either side of the red circle. While it is possible to get a very small flathead up under there and turn the screw it would have to be done with the motor running and it gets extremely hot in there. These bikes create and dump huge amounts of heat so I had to have a fan blasting me the whole time. In order to turn the screws I bought one of these guys: https://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-Extra-Reach-Adjustment-Screwdriver/dp/B001KOAD0W Turning the handle turns the bit at the end. I wouldn't say this makes it easy but it does mean you don't have to stick your hands in a hot engine. The other key to this job is light. It's really difficult to get light where you need it but without good light don't even try. Getting at the vacuum nipples is also tricky on these there's just no room to move. Anyway glad it's done I haven't test rode it yet but I can definitely feel the improvement in idle and throttle response on the other bikes I've synced.
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Aug 24, 2021 21:27
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Gorson posted:I saved the worst for last. Putting "sync'ing V4 carbs" in my never again category. What is a pretty easy job on most bikes is, in typical carbed V4 fashion, an absolute nightmare on the VFR. There's a reason working on these bikes is so expensive. Here are the adjusting screws for the front two carbs: Hey so uh bad news about that driver. I foolishly bought an identical one (motion pro!!1) and it stripped the crimp where the cable goes on the bit part and I had to take it apart to fix it with steel putty. Then the handle stripped on the shaft piece. Then I got a mechanical all metal one with a much shorter reach at the end that I can use on many different bikes. E: while we're here, v4 Hondas seem particularly sensitive to pilot screw adjustments, especially if they're a bit old and tired. If you can't get it perfect try tweaking the pilots by a quarter turn one at a time, don't worry too much about what you're doing objectively and just aim for a nice idle and pickup. I've also found that sometimes fuel tends to pool up in the front left carb and you end up having non-representative running for the first couple of minutes while that fucks off. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Aug 24, 2021 |
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Aug 24, 2021 21:36
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Slavvy posted:Hey so uh bad news about that driver. I foolishly bought an identical one (motion pro!!1) and it stripped the crimp where the cable goes on the bit part and I had to take it apart to fix it with steel putty. Then the handle stripped on the shaft piece. Then I got a mechanical all metal one with a much shorter reach at the end that I can use on many different bikes. Yeah the tool is shittily made and I don't see much longevity out of it. I see Motion Pro makes this one: https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0229 with swappable bits and a gear drive. Is that more like the 2nd one you bought? Good tips on the pilot screws and I didn't realize until now I can use the 90 degree screwdriver to turn them.
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Aug 24, 2021 23:04
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Yep that's the one, both of them are motion pro but I'm pretty sure motion pro just rebadge a bunch of ali express poo poo for the cheaper items. I mostly use mine for pilot screws tbh, most balance screws are accessible with a long screwdriver as I'm sure you're aware.
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Aug 25, 2021 01:21
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Holy poo poo that tool would have saved me so many back aches and I don't even own a carbed bike. Definitely picking one up.
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Aug 25, 2021 01:53
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Moving from the questions thread since it’s a bit of a progress report. I got the rusty bolts unstuck from the tail tidy with pb blaster and vice grips and the wiring is a little too “wild west” to salvage. Want to re-run the whole line from the tail to the connectors. What the hell do you call this:  If I search for cable sleeve all I get is braided stuff and heat shrink. I just want some basic plastic tube that’ll be waterproof but I’ll be damned if I can figure out what to search for. I have a metric ton of heat shrink tubing so I can use that in a pinch but I’d rather not. I’ll still have to heat shrink solder joints obviously but I’m just looking for something that I can cut to length and slide over the cables that will run from tail to connector. I’m certain the answer is super obvious and I will feel like an idiot when someone tells me.
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Aug 25, 2021 17:15
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Rubber hose?
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Aug 25, 2021 17:18
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I mean, I would have thought so too. But not according to any google or amazon searches I have done 
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Aug 25, 2021 17:21
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search for PVC tube sleeve edit: https://www.mcmaster.com/wire-sleeving/chemical-resistant-tube-sleeving/ you can find it on Amazon as well, but the offerings will vary by country
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Aug 25, 2021 17:29
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PVC tube sleeve, I should have known it would be something slightly more technical. Thanks!
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Aug 25, 2021 17:37
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Martytoof posted:I’m certain the answer is super obvious and I will feel like an idiot when someone tells me. You can run wires in heat shrink and not shrink if all you want is to tidy it up and provide abrasion resistance.
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Aug 25, 2021 18:34
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helno posted:You can run wires in heat shrink and not shrink if all you want is to tidy it up and provide abrasion resistance. Please don't do this it makes me vomit. Heat shrink is not conduit or sheath material, it has a specific job and that type of thing is not it. Also Marty I'll let you in on a secret: the wires themselves are waterproof. The sheath is just to keep poo poo tidy and stop it rubbing through. If it were my crappy drz I wouldn't gently caress around waiting for things in the mail, just wrap them in electrical tape. It'll work fine for a few years and that's all you need.
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Aug 25, 2021 19:18
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Slavvy posted:Please don't do this it makes me vomit. Heat shrink is not conduit or sheath material, it has a specific job and that type of thing is not it. Unlined heat shrink in most cases is just irradiated PVC. In an application where it will never get hot enough to shrink it is functionally identical to PVC sleeving. Any application where it would get hot enough to shrink on a bike would probably leave electrical tape a sticky mess so neither is ideal.
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Aug 25, 2021 21:40
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helno posted:Unlined heat shrink in most cases is just irradiated PVC. In an application where it will never get hot enough to shrink it is functionally identical to PVC sleeving. You may think this but it is not true irl. Unshrunk heat shrink looks and works like absolute garbage after a few months, it's just terrible. Idk what kind of pvc sleeve you've seen but it isn't the same, heatshrink is all papery and fragile and tears easily. They are nothing alike from a practical perspective; when I see heatshrink used wrong it's a massive red flag for PO stupidity. Cause it shows someone was just informed enough to be really dangerous.
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Aug 25, 2021 22:26
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Can you explain why it matters because you're posting like it's super important but I'm not seeing how bundling wires in heatshrink is significantly different than bundling them in electrical tape
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Aug 25, 2021 23:15
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