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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWct_KYGRQo
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Aug 16, 2021 16:11
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The adjuster called and while scheduling asked me what was the damage and I told him about the frame damage and he was like "welllll they might be able to fix that, pretty normal these days since pick-ups are so expensive, your truck is worth quite a lot so frame repair probably won't cost enough to total it, a full frame replacement might still be cheaper" also he had the balls to tell me it could be a 3-6 month wait for parts. JFC. he's coming tomorrow to look in person and he said he's not ruling anything out yet, but yeah... nightmare already coming true ethanol fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Aug 16, 2021 |
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Aug 16, 2021 23:16
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Remember, they are contractually obligated to make you whole. Insist on new OEM parts, it's a brand new truck. And if they're cutting you a check, make sure that's enough to buy another, including all current market fuckery pricing.
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Aug 17, 2021 01:58
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yes for a truck that new in almost any state they are obligated to do 100% OEM parts replacement if it is going to be 3-6 months insist on an equivalent rental with your insurance (will probably be a half ton or a Colorado/Ranger/Frontier but still better than tooling around in a Sentra)
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Aug 17, 2021 13:26
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ethanol posted:The adjuster called and while scheduling asked me what was the damage and I told him about the frame damage and he was like "welllll they might be able to fix that, pretty normal these days since pick-ups are so expensive, your truck is worth quite a lot so frame repair probably won't cost enough to total it, a full frame replacement might still be cheaper" Jesus christ man, you weren't kidding about brand new, you just got it June 15th right? I feel your pain. My truck wasn't that new (3 years old) when it was totaled in a rear end collision at a light but it only had 20k miles on it and the previous year I'd spent about 10 grand in lift/wheels/tires/other bullshit. Good luck. I had Progressive (and so did the person that hit me). There was 0 question that my truck was totaled but they fought like hell, trying to give me an absolute garbage valuation. It took 3 months and hiring independent appraisers and having the truck value paid for by my insurance but the aftermarket parts value paid by the at fault guys insurance (which they never mentioned as a possibility until I suggested it) but I eventually got a good value for it, about 7 grand more than they offered. They never budged an inch either until the independent appraisers (including the one THEY hired) came back and told them they were full of poo poo. They wouldn't even drop the obvious outlier from the comps (51k, 50k, 43k).
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Aug 17, 2021 13:47
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bird with big dick posted:Jesus christ man, you weren't kidding about brand new, you just got it June 15th right? I feel your pain. My truck wasn't that new (3 years old) when it was totaled in a rear end collision at a light but it only had 20k miles on it and the previous year I'd spent about 10 grand in lift/wheels/tires/other bullshit. Yeah it has 2500 miles on it lmfao edit: I don't think my state (vermont) has any laws that require OEM parts. for any vehicles, regardless of age or mileage. ethanol fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 13:56
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ethanol posted:Yeah it has 2500 miles on it lmfao this is true, RIP (but you can still kick a fuss with insurance) Who's your carrier? I think I missed that.
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Aug 17, 2021 14:37
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sadly geico I will be having the adjuster take a look in a couple hours (and probably have to reject his adjustment and send him home), then a shop estimate later today. a toyota dealer i called said based on my description of the bend being at the leaf spring mount it cannot be sectioned or bent back, and they think it is a write off ethanol fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 14:49
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Maybe I totally misunderstand the rules, but don’t insurance agencies usually let you pick your own vendor for repairs? If so, couldn’t he just take it to a Toyota dealer (who would obviously use OEM parts)?
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Aug 17, 2021 15:56
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They are required by law to let you take it to the repair shop of your choosing. Not all dealerships have a body shop though (most don't).
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Aug 17, 2021 16:13
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He said if i take it to a toyota dealer they won't pay for whatever the extra labor is vs their accepted rate, and correct my servicing dealer doesn't have an autobody. I haven't checked more than one other dealer yet and they recommended me a 'OE' autobody nearby
ethanol fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 16:40
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ya dealers generally don't do body work; plus the door rate for paint and body is like $50 and for mechanical at the dealer is like $100+ they will know a good body shop, though, that buys a lot of parts from them
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Aug 17, 2021 16:46
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After a look in person, the adjuster said it is likely totaled. He said for repairs he estimated 16k (i was secretly guessing 15k) and probably will keep going with unknown damages. He’s going to “talk to his boss” though and has not given me an offer yet, because he says they have to look up recent salvage values (which he said have been skyrocketing). He offhand mentioned 2k above my asking, which I haven’t told yet, as a possible number for reimbursement, so hopefully it’s that
ethanol fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 19:53
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Any cars over 50k that are nice to have and reliable? I do prefer SUV/crossover over most things, but a wagon is theoretically acceptable My first car was a s10 so height really might not be a big deal. Guess I’m looking forming reliable and easy to maintain; used is fine. freeasinbeer fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 20:33
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freeasinbeer posted:Any cars over 50k that are nice to have and reliable? Yes, there are lots of nice cars that cost over $50,000. Some of them are reliable. It would help to know more than “expensive SUV, crossover, or wagon.” If you’re buying an expensive car, is there a specific reason you want to go with a used one, and why do you care about doing the service yourself?
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Aug 17, 2021 20:39
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lexus gx460 bb pay no mind to the fact that has the fuel economy of a T72
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Aug 17, 2021 20:43
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freeasinbeer posted:Any cars over 50k that are nice to have and reliable? Might be good to include your post from a few days ago if all that has changed is your budget. freeasinbeer posted:Proposed Budget: uhhhh, sub 50k? Moved from HCoL to Lower CoL area, but need car, ideally would like to be around 30k max.
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Aug 17, 2021 20:59
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Space Gopher posted:Yes, there are lots of nice cars that cost over $50,000. Some of them are reliable. It would help to know more than “expensive SUV, crossover, or wagon.” Ah sorry, I should of quoted my first post. More specifically some of the responses seemed to veer towards cars that were above 50k, and I was following up to understand why, or if there was a car that was considered exceptionally good in a slightly higher price range
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Aug 17, 2021 21:56
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freeasinbeer posted:Ah sorry, I should of quoted my first post. You seem to be leaning hard into crossover/CUV with some of your clarifications so you might see if you like how you fit into the generic CUV recommendations: CX-5, Rav 4, CR-V. These all fit into your budget new and loaded if you want.
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Aug 17, 2021 22:07
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zedprime posted:If you don't focus the thread it tends to recommend you the cars it wants, not the car you want. I vaguely remember the head room on the cr-v and rav4 being not great. I had an xterra back in the day I loved and we liked the Jeep Liberty, is there anything in that range that stands out?
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Aug 18, 2021 00:12
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Headroom is a pain to google but the barest of doing so says there's not really noticeable headroom in an Xterra vs a Rav4 or CRV  Getting away from Toyota or Honda in CUVs and 3rd row SUVs is moving toward the unreliable but in 2021 the absolute junkers in common consumer styles are going to be as reliable as you need being you're ready to do basic garage work (which you won't end up doing because when things do break its epic but I take it to mean you have good preventative maintenance habits). If your biggest problem remains the height you might get better winnowing from butt-in-seats shopping or finding a Tall People in Cars forum.
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Aug 18, 2021 00:39
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VW is usually pretty good for tall people, go sit in a Tiguan or Taos.
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Aug 18, 2021 01:16
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What’s a good reason not to get a BMW I3 as a second car? We have a 2018 LC200 for long trips, camping, and mild off-roading. The I3 seems like an ideal companion for around town, plus they can be fairly cheap. What’s not to like?
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Aug 18, 2021 01:34
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dunno how many times I've posted this in thread (probably a thousand? maybe more) but: if you have abnormal measurements at all, like you are real tall or real fat or real short or you have little t-rex arms or giant long legs, you need to sit in cars. nobody can tell you what you fit in. comparing specs on the spec sheet won't tell you that much either. GO SIT IN CARS.
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Aug 18, 2021 14:26
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:dunno how many times I've posted this in thread (probably a thousand? maybe more) but:
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Aug 18, 2021 17:00
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:dunno how many times I've posted this in thread (probably a thousand? maybe more) but: This was the case for my dad (6'5", mostly legs): he wanted a new CUV of some sort, and did not have enough legroom in the CX5, RAV-4, CR-V, CX30, Forester, Bronco Sport, Escape, any Kia or Hyundai, or Lexus NX. He ended up with a GMC Acadia, and it's fine. "Front Legroom" as a measurement is absolute garbage, as it claims my 2005 Miata had more legroom than the Acadia, which is very not true. If you're worried about headroom, avoid sunroofs.
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Aug 18, 2021 17:53
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:dunno how many times I've posted this in thread (probably a thousand? maybe more) but: Really everyone should do this regardless of size. It's especially true for odd-sized people, but everyone has different ideas of what comfortable or spacious is, and different preferences for what feels right to them. Sure there's been a lot of convergence and homogenization of the mainstream segments but there are still plenty of differences and details that are a matter of taste or preference. The quickest way to whittle down a list of candidate cars is to go sit in them and preferably drive them. All the objective numbers and stats comparisons quickly don't mean anything if you just subjectively like/dislike certain things about a car in person. It's kind of like looking at real estate photos on Redfin where everything is flattering and looks great but then within 5 minutes of actually physically stepping foot inside a place you know if it's your style or not. Unless you truly, literally do not give a poo poo about anything about your vehicle except that which is the reductionist essential form of "a car" (in that case, stop reading and get a Prius), go try before you buy. Guinness fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Aug 18, 2021 |
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Aug 18, 2021 17:58
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:dunno how many times I've posted this in thread (probably a thousand? maybe more) but: loving this. Ask me about not fitting in a c5 rs6 while dailying a mazda2. Size doesn't tell you anything really because it's all about ergonomics, how far back the seat goes (the mazda2 front seat runs into the back seat all the way back), how low the seat drops, roof curve, etc. Another example, I can fit in a 2005 subaru legacy wagon without a sunroof with a helmet (so about 2in above my head) I cannot fit in the same year sedan with a sunroof bareheaded. Many modern cars now have thick af transmission tunnels (whether or not there is a transmission there). If you're tall and need to bend your legs out, this sucks. It sucks even more when there is a sharp thing where you rest your leg. You need to sit in every car, and drive everything that doesn't immediately fail the sit test, while paying attention to how everything interacts.
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Aug 18, 2021 19:40
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I got a question about financing that I'm on the fence about. It seems rates are ridiculously low, like 2.5%-ish. We're looking at getting a 2021 Sienna. Operating under the assumption that we can afford to pay straight cash for the vehicle. How does one determine how much to finance and for how long? I've been playing with a spreadsheet to see the numbers; but, its so abstract.
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Aug 18, 2021 21:21
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It's more depending on what you can afford to pay monthly than having the cash. If you have the cash and can afford to pay 60 months for the loan, take the cash and put it in an index fund and pay the loan. You'll come out ahead however long the length of the loan is.
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Aug 18, 2021 21:27
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If you are debating I recommend putting enough money down such that you won't be underwater at any point over the life of the loan. You can also get gap insurance, but that only covers you if you crash the car, not if your life circumstances change and you want to get out from under the car.
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Aug 18, 2021 21:43
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Truck is officially totaled. No settlement offer yet. They said by end of week hopefully. I took a look for new Tacomas and yeah there’s even less than 2 months ago. There’s a trickle of 2021 model years left in transit and no word on 2022. My dealer said all their remaining allocations (as in trucks they are waiting to be shipped)were cancelled
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Aug 18, 2021 21:50
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ethanol posted:Truck is officially totaled. No settlement offer yet. I took a look for new Tacomas and yeah there’s even less than 2 months ago. There’s a trickle of 2021 model years left in transit and no word on 2022. My dealer said all their remaining allocations (as in trucks they are waiting to be shipped)were cancelled On one hand, this sucks, on the other hand this sucks a lot less than "we're going to fix it no matter what so you're still paying your loan on a frame-repaired vehicle".
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Aug 18, 2021 21:52
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c355n4 posted:I got a question about financing that I'm on the fence about. It seems rates are ridiculously low, like 2.5%-ish. We're looking at getting a 2021 Sienna. Operating under the assumption that we can afford to pay straight cash for the vehicle. How does one determine how much to finance and for how long? I've been playing with a spreadsheet to see the numbers; but, its so abstract. Assuming the absolute simplest case: you can buy the car cash, but have an investment opportunity that beats the car loan rate. In this scenario, you're mostly constrained by the loan terms: there are limits in place about how much you put down compared with the principal, and longer time terms usually means worse rates. Thus you negotiate with the financer on what your down payment and length will be to get the rate you want that you are planning to beat. Then you make the investment with the rest of your cash and hope you were right. Fake edit: also consider the minimum payment to not go underwater like they're saying. Loan terms will usually keep you there but not always. Where messy real life comes in is you also might have things you need to invest in besides market funds: need to do any home reno but are lacking home equity? What's your medical insurance deductible? Ever want a dirt bike? How's your kids college fund doing? Sometimes the best financing you do is psychological. You pay off the car with cash, forego a loan, and apply the payment to something else, maybe making it a habit that you keep up past when you would close out a car loan. Or maybe your Roth contribution isn't maxed yet and not carrying a car note let's you get there. Buying the car in cash is a form of tax avoidance that way assuming you are on the peasant side of Roth accounting.
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Aug 18, 2021 21:54
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ethanol posted:Truck is officially totaled. No settlement offer yet. They said by end of week hopefully. I took a look for new Tacomas and yeah there’s even less than 2 months ago. There’s a trickle of 2021 model years left in transit and no word on 2022. My dealer said all their remaining allocations (as in trucks they are waiting to be shipped)were cancelled So do they give you a loaner for x days or are you hosed in that regard? I’m pretty sure my insurance only provides a rental while my car is getting repaired from a wreck. If I was the insurance company, I’d write the check and say best of luck. lovely time to be out a car, especially if you depend on it, but I’d rather deal with that situation than having a brand new truck that’s been in a wreck.
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Aug 18, 2021 21:57
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nwin posted:So do they give you a loaner for x days or are you hosed in that regard? I’m pretty sure my insurance only provides a rental while my car is getting repaired from a wreck. If I was the insurance company, I’d write the check and say best of luck. I have rental coverage for 30 days but I’m not activating it until I have to go to work next week. Unfortunately that means either tracking down a 2021 or waiting 2-4 months for a 2022. The latter of which probably won’t work with having to go to work
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Aug 18, 2021 22:06
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Thanks all for the info. I'm trending to paying like 1/2 to 3/4 of the car in cash and finance the rest. Last car loan we had, we ended up just paying it off earlier to forget about it.
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Aug 18, 2021 22:29
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ethanol posted:I have rental coverage for 30 days but I’m not activating it until I have to go to work next week. Unfortunately that means either tracking down a 2021 or waiting 2-4 months for a 2022. The latter of which probably won’t work with having to go to work I'd suggest it's tide-me-over beater time but now even that market's totally hosed. your situation sucks, sorry man. At least they totaled it.
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Aug 18, 2021 22:35
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c355n4 posted:I got a question about financing that I'm on the fence about. It seems rates are ridiculously low, like 2.5%-ish. We're looking at getting a 2021 Sienna. Operating under the assumption that we can afford to pay straight cash for the vehicle. How does one determine how much to finance and for how long? I've been playing with a spreadsheet to see the numbers; but, its so abstract. I tell you what I'd worry a lot less about it with the DJIA at 35,000 than when it was at, say, 12,000.
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Aug 18, 2021 22:44
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nwin posted:I’m pretty sure my insurance only provides a rental while my car is getting repaired from a wreck. If I was the insurance company, I’d write the check and say best of luck. lol you might be right, i think it's 5 days if it's a total. I didn't think there would be a difference between the 30 days rental reimbursement for repair and total... well poo poo... edit: I'll have to ask, I mean I pay extra for the drat coverage ethanol fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Aug 18, 2021 |
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Aug 18, 2021 22:58
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