|
How bad of an idea is it buying second hand appliances for your kitchen? Our local Habitat for Humanity restore occasionally posts about having pretty nice refrigerators and ovens for sale at good prices but as someone who isn’t incredibly handy I’m worried I am going to buy a lemon.
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2021 13:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 11:10 |
|
|
AHH F/UGH posted:edit: And what about the other property inside the house, and her car outside? I don't know what those would be considered. Obviously we'll get the lawyer's opinion but I'm just wondering if anyone here has inherited something in this way or dealt with this kind of thing before. This is not legal advice, and talk to your attorney to confirm, but the rule of thumb for real property is fixtures; namely anything that's nailed down is considered part of the property and would pass via the deed. There's possibly some grey area with stuff like appliances - but you're definitely not getting her furniture or car.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2021 13:28
|
|
|
AHH F/UGH posted:So a possible huge(?) windfall for me - I get to move back in with my mom!!!! Typically this depends not just on the exact words on the deed, but possibly your state's laws. Not a lawyer, but I would doubt that anything but the deed transfers. This isn't a home sale, so it's highly unlikely that any personal property is going to come along for the ride. A real estate attorney can help your mom get the other name off the deed, but absolutely ask the attorney if there will be any probate issues and what you should do with any remaining personal property... some questionable things would be things that typically don't convey in a sale, like a fridge or a washer/dryer, or furniture from common areas. Definitely ask about stuff like that where it's not obvious, especially if there's any documentation that it was purchased by the friend. But in general, I would expect any personal property belongs to the estate now, and the executor will need to handle it. And as a note, just because it's "left behind" doesn't mean your mother has any claim to it, even if it sits there for months. There's always a process to follow for abandoned property, and it varies by state, so make sure you follow it exactly before you start selling stuff or throwing anything away. Certainly don't use any vehicles or anything as your own, those almost certainly belong to the estate. Also, yes this should absolutely bypass probate (as far as the deed is concerned), but that doesn't mean the friend's family isn't going to challenge something. Make sure you have a solid paper trail and copies of everything along the way, pre- and post transfer. Obviously your attorney will help guide you, but just make sure to ask if any extra steps need to be taken now to document the transfer just in case it's challenged later. The family might not know about the RoS agreement, and they might assume that half the house is theirs and may act accordingly. And if they find out about the RoS, they might assume it's fraudulent. People get stupid about inheritances after someone dies, don't expect this to go smoothly.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2021 13:52
|
|
|
Got confirmation from the passed friend's brother today (who I think is spearheading the estate and probate stuff) that my mom is now the sole owner of the property - not sure if it's written yet or anything but he confirmed it. As far as the chattel, there's a car (BMW M3) that they'll probably likely want to tow somewhere to be sold at auction or put up for consignment, and things like bed and couch furniture can obviously go since I have my own stuff I'd like to move in. My mom has asked them to leave the washer and dryer, and I assume the oven is considered "part" of the kitchen? The refrigerator - I'm not sure of how "set" that is in the kitchen but I'll just assume for the moment that it'll be taken out, and if not then it's just a bonus for me since the apartment I'm in now came with appliances and I'd prefer not to buy a refrigerator. Anyways, I offered my time on the weekends to clean the place out and also suggested that we get the locks changed ASAP since no one knows who has a key out there right now. After everything is settled with the family, we're going to have to replace the carpet and probably do some painting but nothing too crazy. The friend was unmarried with no kids and didn't live a crazy lifestyle by any means so the place is probably in decent shape. I might post photos once we're able. Thanks for the advice y'all. AHH F/UGH fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Aug 17, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2021 22:12
|
|
|
The fridge and washer dryer do not generally convey with a home. Those would generally be property of the estate. Oven, range, a built in/installed microwave, and dishwasher tend to be considered part of the home and convey between owners.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2021 22:24
|
|
|
Just keep in mind that you (your mom) doesn't own the place until the deed is transferred (through the lawyer), so while you can help clean up the space, doing things like changing the locks/throwing stuff out could be considered a big no-no, and should be done by the family who can hand you the keys, or just wait the couple of days out for the deed to transfer.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2021 22:27
|
|
|
Great, my central AC is not working. Went to the outside unit and it's making a buzzing sound and the fan isn't spinning. I tried starting it by hand with a screwdriver and no dice, it won't move, so it doesn't seem like the start capacitor? I dunno, time to see if a home warranty is worth anything and enjoy the time it takes them to actually get someone out here. 3 months after closing  I previously had an AC company check the system and it was fine when they were here, of course. Although they did say the capacitor was 5 uF below where it should be, but it was working fine so I declined a replacement at the time. e: nevermind about the URL, works ok now. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Aug 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 04:27
|
|
|
Works for me, but it does throw a fun “not optimized for mobile” alert, so check your filtering or a different browser
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 04:31
|
|
|
Ok, it's definitely screwed up.... I found the A/C breaker was tripped so I reset it. Tried to run the A/C and it tripped again. I would point a finger at the HVAC company that did a diagnostic and pulled out all the wiring from everywhere on the outside unit, including plugging in a shop vac with a makeshift extension cord with line voltage exposed so they could hook it into the lines from outside. However, the A/C definitely worked after they were here, so I don't think I can say it was caused by them. So I'll pay the $100 home warranty fee instead of calling them back and whining.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 04:39
|
|
|
95% sure that’s a bad capacitor. I bought one at ace hardware for 17 bucks and replaced it in 20 minutes last time it went bad. Now I keep spare caps and contactors on the shelf. Cheap insurance
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 04:44
|
|
|
Well this just turned into a big issue. I reset the breaker again, which was probably not a good move, now my condo has no power. The main breaker at the top didn’t trip, so I have no idea what happened. Literally making plans to stay with family tonight and probably get an electrician in tomorrow for $$$$. Should’ve just lived with no AC for a day, but nope had to fix it! E: I set all breakers to off, reset the main one at the top, no dice. It is entirely screwed and I have no idea what happened. Have never even heard of this happening.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 05:08
|
|
|
Your house gon burn down
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 05:22
|
|
|
bird with big dick posted:Your house gon burn down This phallic pheasant may be correct
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 12:25
|
|
|
Oh joy, downstairs neighbors with a baby tested the window paint chips in the old window sills and found lead (not shocking), and the lead remediation guy they had out says the only real solution is to replace all the windows. We're also having a kid in a few months, so we need to rush window replacement before the kid arrives. I'm sure this won't be a nightmare!
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 14:38
|
|
|
Don't let your kid eat paint chips from the window sill?
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 15:06
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:Don't let your kid eat paint chips from the window sill? Strong username / post confusion here.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 15:09
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:Well this just turned into a big issue. I reset the breaker again, which was probably not a good move, now my condo has no power. The main breaker at the top didn’t trip, so I have no idea what happened. Literally making plans to stay with family tonight and probably get an electrician in tomorrow for $$$$. Is this a new panel in good shape or is it some ancient thing with unnamed breakers? Sounds like the feed to your panel tripped.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 15:11
|
|
|
Academician Nomad posted:Oh joy, downstairs neighbors with a baby tested the window paint chips in the old window sills and found lead (not shocking), and the lead remediation guy they had out says the only real solution is to replace all the windows. We're also having a kid in a few months, so we need to rush window replacement before the kid arrives. I'm sure this won't be a nightmare! Wait so the chipping paint was on the window sills but the recommendation was to replace the windows themselves? What about scraping, stripping (via chemical paint stripper rather than particulate-producing means like sanding), and repainting to safely encapsulate? If the windows are old wood ones, they can be remediated by stripping and repainting (though if they are old aluminum or plastic, go ahead and replace). I mean, my house is full of lead that can't be 100% eliminated without tearing out all the original detailing and remaining original windows that made this house actually worthwhile to buy and restore, so we're going for safe stripping methods and encapsulation. We plan on raising a family here, too. Honestly I'm more worried about the moderate level of lead contamination in the yard than I am about lead inside the house (which I know can be contained, unlike lead loose in the outside environment). Seems to me that replacing windows is an easier but much more expensive remediation route, but one that still doesn't address the sills, unless part of that is ripping out sills and casing and replacing all that as well (for additional $$$). Oh, and what about baseboard? Did the guy recommend replacement for that as well if the sills have lead and are chipping? A crawling baby is going to have much easier access to the baseboard than windows. To me, just replacing the windows seems woefully incomplete for how much it's going to cost if the proposal didn't including also replacing painted trim, in which case it'll be even more expensive. Stripping and repainting is going to be gross and dirty and more work, but cheaper and DIYable.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 15:52
|
|
|
Source4Leko posted:Is this a new panel in good shape or is it some ancient thing with unnamed breakers? Sounds like the feed to your panel tripped. Update: that's exactly what happened. It's a new panel, 2002 build. I texted a HOA board guy (whose number I happened to have) last night and asked him if there was any room outside my unit equipped with breakers, at the time he said no. This morning I used my no contact tester and noticed there was no voltage coming to my panel. Texted him again to get into the electrical room, and indeed there are breakers for each unit. Reset it (with my AC breaker off) and everything is fine now except the AC. Cost me my fridge groceries! He apologized for not remembering last night but no big deal.... Inner Light fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Aug 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 16:21
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:Don't let your kid eat paint chips from the window sill? The issue isn't paint chips, it's dust generated from the movement of opening and closing the windows. Plus chips I guess, kids are stupid. But not as stupid as they are if they get exposed to a bunch of lead. Lead is really bad! Queen Victorian posted:Wait so the chipping paint was on the window sills but the recommendation was to replace the windows themselves? What about scraping, stripping (via chemical paint stripper rather than particulate-producing means like sanding), and repainting to safely encapsulate? If the windows are old wood ones, they can be remediated by stripping and repainting (though if they are old aluminum or plastic, go ahead and replace). Maybe sills is the wrong word, it's the interior part that's the issue:  The lead remediator guy talked himself out of what would have been a huge $$$ project by saying to just replace the windows, so I have to believe he has a better idea of what's involved than I would. First quote from a window company: $20-30k, depending on window choice, for 16 windows. Yayyyy home ownership
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 17:24
|
|
|
It looks like the part that panes slide in is aluminum. Quit panicking. Lead is bad but just like asbestos it's not radioactive.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 18:06
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:It looks like the part that panes slide in is aluminum. Quit panicking. Lead is bad but just like asbestos it's not radioactive. Sorry but this is the wrong attitude. It sounds like he has a tenant, so regardless of what you or he thinks of the danger this needs to be repaired or replaced. 20k is a lot less than a judgment against him, and the morally right thing to do is provide a safe living space. Personally, I would get them replaced too based on the comment that it creates dust when you operate the window. I do enough stupid poo poo on my own that endangers my safety, I dont need to add passive hazards to hurt my and my family's health. I'd make allowances if it was a single window I never use, or a cabin that I stay in occasionally. Full time dwelling makes any hazard an occupational hazard, and that poo poo adds up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 18:24
|
|
|
Don't they live in a condo which is why they have a downstairs neighbor? 16 windows does sound like a lot of windows for a condo, but what do I know
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 18:50
|
|
|
Maybe it's a bunch of really narrow windows?
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 19:00
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Maybe it's a bunch of really narrow windows?
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 19:01
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:It looks like the part that panes slide in is aluminum. Quit panicking. Lead is bad but just like asbestos it's not radioactive. Acknowledging real risks, even relatively unlikely risks but with serious consequences, isn't "panicking." Lead is really bad for brain development and there isn't a safe amount. I'm not remediating the basement or anything which I'm sure is absolutely coated in flaking ancient lead paint, the baby can just not be there, but windows are pretty important. Plus, while it was never going to be worth it to replace the windows for energy savings reasons, it will be nice to have something better than ancient single-pane. gwrtheyrn posted:Don't they live in a condo which is why they have a downstairs neighbor? 16 windows does sound like a lot of windows for a condo, but what do I know biracial bear for uncut posted:Maybe it's a bunch of really narrow windows? Yes condo, no tenants, and not small or narrow windows (in fact big ones, which is part of why it's so expensive). Top story of a triple-decker, windows on basically all sides.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 19:42
|
|
|
Academician Nomad posted:The issue isn't paint chips, it's dust generated from the movement of opening and closing the windows. Plus chips I guess, kids are stupid. But not as stupid as they are if they get exposed to a bunch of lead. Lead is really bad! So I still don't see what exactly warrants a mass window replacement to the tune of five figures. Your existing setup looks pretty workable to me  Seems to me like the guy maybe didn't have time for the $$$ remediation project so he pointed you a $$$$$ alternative that still mostly solves your problem but more expensively. You have metal lining in your sash channels already, which mostly eliminates the paint-on-paint friction problem when you operate the windows. You could replace the linings just to be safe - I see some paint on the edges from a previous lovely paint job. The chipped paint on the outside sill just needs to be scraped and repainted and also is not accessible when the window is closed. The thing that a new window would accomplish is encapsulating the chipped paint on the sill (which could otherwise be remedied by some cleanup and a fresh coat of paint) and replacing sliding sashes, which in your case, have already largely been mitigated with the liners (make sure the edges of the sashes are free of lead paint and optionally fitted with some sort of liner or low friction stripping or something).  This is the inside of one of my windows, which has already been replaced (with ill-fitting cheap vinyl courtesy of the previous owner). The replacement window is pretty much just dropped into the opening of the original one and caulked into placed. Basically, an expensive (but really easy) way to encapsulate flaking paint and friction points. As you can see, what was not addressed by the window replacement is all the woodwork surrounding the window. The inner sill, stop, and casing are sitting there chipping away. While your interior paint looks way better and much more intact, you'll still need to repaint eventually anyway. Also baseboards. And radiators if you have them (or put covers on them). And strip any paint off the door hinges/replace door hinges (gently caress you PO for painting all the door hardware). Make sure doors aren't too tight because then you have paint rubbing like you do with the window sashes. Definitely do some soil testing around the building (if there is a yard), and if you want your kid to be able to play outside, there could very well be a whole lot of mulch and sod in your future (again, if there is a yard). Basically, what I'm trying to say is that window replacement strikes me as a lot of money for a partial solution. A huge part, granted, but still partial. Personally, I'm going for the strip/repaint route for the remaining original windows in my house. They need restoration anyway (reglazing, a few new glass panes, a least one new jamb, lots of new cords, etc) so doing slightly more intensive stripping to thoroughly remove the lead isn't that much extra effort for me. But then again I'm a weirdo who loves old windows and hates vinyl (doesn't help that the vinyl windows in my house are cheap ugly garbage and the source of drafts in the winter).
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 20:00
|
|
|
Queen Victorian posted:So I still don't see what exactly warrants a mass window replacement to the tune of five figures. Your existing setup looks pretty workable to me Hmm, I appreciate the input. I'm certainly not wedded to spending huge amounts. We'd be going with fancier fiberglass exterior/wood interior rather than vinyl, but the point stands that it's an expensive fix. Another thing we might consider is replacing the windows in the nursery and 2-3 others that we open regularly (like the kitchen) and just plan to not open the rest. We have AC, so it's not like we need to do so often. Good point about the door hardware, might make that my next weekend project - pretty straightforward to strip it down, see how it looks, and replace is it doesn't look good.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 21:04
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:Update: that's exactly what happened. It's a new panel, 2002 build. I texted a HOA board guy (whose number I happened to have) last night and asked him if there was any room outside my unit equipped with breakers, at the time he said no. Further update, AC company came and indeed the first set of guys left a hot wire (almost) touching the metal case, and operation caused the wire to move and touch it which shorted the breaker. I would be a Karen and complain but I've decided not to.... I don't want to be the cause of a couple of dudes getting reprimanded or losing their jobs, and plus they know where I live.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 22:18
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:Further update, AC company came and indeed the first set of guys left a hot wire (almost) touching the metal case, and operation caused the wire to move and touch it which shorted the breaker. I would be a Karen and complain but I've decided not to.... I don't want to be the cause of a couple of dudes getting reprimanded or losing their jobs, and plus they know where I live. I sure hope the AC company is paying for any damage caused from this, and maybe even refunding and/or discounting your original costs from their work. I look at this in a different light. Someone negligently left a hot wire in an unsafe place that could have easily started a fire that could have ended in a multi-million dollar liability and loss of life. You could be saving someone that pain by ensuring someone gets an absolute rear end chewing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 22:25
|
|
|
Pilfered Pallbearers posted:I sure hope the AC company is paying for any damage caused from this, and maybe even refunding and/or discounting your original costs from their work. You raise important points to consider and I may change my mind in the near future. There was no cost for this visit to fix the gently caress-up (and add a zip tie to prevent the wire from getting close again), but they did not spontaneously offer to discount/refund the original 'check and clean' service. Might call and ask for that.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 22:36
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:You raise important points to consider and I may change my mind in the near future. There was no cost for this visit to fix the gently caress-up (and add a zip tie to prevent the wire from getting close again), but they did not spontaneously offer to discount/refund the original 'check and clean' service. Might call and ask for that. That is not an acceptable fix, and you lost a fridge full of food over their fuckup. Get on it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 22:54
|
|
|
Neat, water is pooling in my finished basement. At least it only happens when it really pours. So I should have time to get 2-3 quotes for remediation. First quote is for 2.7k for demo and remediation, no repair to studs damaged by work. 3.3k for fixing everything up to but not including drywall. I believe they were pitching a trench along the side is the basement with the ponding with a drain/pump to sewer line. That seem reasonable? The basement has a pretty big slope between the back of the house and the front and ponding only in the lowest point. Would just a sump pump in the front with no trenches be sufficient instead?
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 22:58
|
|
|
Pilfered Pallbearers posted:
This. I generally go out of my way to not get people in trouble for just loving something up but I draw the line at negligence and poo poo that could have easily injured or killed someone.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 23:00
|
|
|
Do you currently have a sump pump? If no, how/why/who finished that basement? Did you buy it that way? Was it premitted? Also, nobody can really answer those questions without seeing your house. Not everything about basement flooding is remediated solely in the basement. There are improper/missing gutters, poorly placed downspouts, negate slope towards the house.......actual foundation cracks......
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 23:01
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:You raise important points to consider and I may change my mind in the near future. There was no cost for this visit to fix the gently caress-up (and add a zip tie to prevent the wire from getting close again), but they did not spontaneously offer to discount/refund the original 'check and clean' service. Might call and ask for that. Uhh, zip ties are not the proper response to a bare wire accidentally shorting against something. I recommend you never call this HVAC company again (except to request a refund for their shoddy work).
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 23:01
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Do you currently have a sump pump? If no, how/why/who finished that basement? Did you buy it that way? Was it premitted? No I don't currently have a sump pump. It was a remodel of a Philly row home that's over 100 years old. Yes I bought it that way. My inspector did not flag it as an issue. As far as I know it had the necessary permits. Assuming no catastrophic issues like a broken foundation, would a simple sump pump with no trenching be sufficient?
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 23:15
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:Further update, AC company came and indeed the first set of guys left a hot wire (almost) touching the metal case, and operation caused the wire to move and touch it which shorted the breaker. I would be a Karen and complain but I've decided not to.... I don't want to be the cause of a couple of dudes getting reprimanded or losing their jobs, and plus they know where I live. I missed this there is no reason to leave a hot wire with an exposed end permanently attached in a residence simply to make their once every other year job easier. If someone I knew did that I wouldn't allow them near electricity ever again. Like that's the laziest poo poo imaginable. Demand all your money back and never call them again. Source4Leko fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Aug 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 23:18
|
|
|
Ugh, I misunderstood exactly what the guy said and feel bad. Now that I think about it he said it was 2 hot wires touching rather than touching the case.... that changes the 'laziest thing imaginable' a little, but just wanted to set myself straight on these here forums. Still not good! But that's why he secured the leads away from each other with zip ties.... I am not sure exactly why they have exposed ends that could touch, but that's what happened.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 23:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 11:10 |
|
|
Nitrousoxide posted:Assuming no catastrophic issues like a broken foundation, would a simple sump pump with no trenching be sufficient? It could be, it could not be. If this hasn't ever happened before and suddenly started happen it could be something completely different like broken gutters/downspout. A neighbor that regraded. A neighbor's broken downspout, etc. You need people that can actually look at the whole thing, not just "we do perimeter drains in basement so this is what I'm here to sell you."
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2021 23:27
|
|