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Does anyone have a recommendation for a small electric drill that can do 1mm bits for pinning but also larger ones for stuff like dowels for mounting busts?
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Aug 19, 2021 02:24
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The Moon Monster posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for a small electric drill that can do 1mm bits for pinning but also larger ones for stuff like dowels for mounting busts? I have a pistol grip Dremel drill (as opposed to a rotary tool) and it works great, but I don't think they sell them anymore. I've never used it but the Tamaya electric drill is supposed to be good, it comes on sprue and you have to assemble it like a model kit though.
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Aug 19, 2021 03:00
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For the oil painters out there, if I've wiped up my oil washes and put a cap on the cups with solvent in them I'm ok to just leave paint on the palette and close my window right? E: answered this myself by not getting any brain damage Eej fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Aug 19, 2021 |
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Aug 19, 2021 04:19
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One more question before I actually put paint to brush. I went down the rabbit hole of individualizing the rest of the nights watch mini's but stuck on two points. 1. This guy is going to have a spear. Point up or down? Down gives an orenstein vibe but up looks like he's actually trying to hit something.   2. Then there are these three jokers. The way they are holding their greatswords makes it difficult to put a hood on them and their pose doesn't lend themselves to a weapon swap. Any suggestions for mods because I have nothing.  Here are the rest of the dudes if you are interested.  
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Aug 19, 2021 05:06
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1) I think point down makes it look like he's actively fighting, point up is putting the dangerous end in the wrong direction. 2) That pose would be decent for a flail. If you smoothed the hair you could probably fill the gaps with green stuff and smooth it out to make a hood.
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Aug 19, 2021 05:13
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Parkingtigers posted:I never varnished back in the day (because there were horror stories of bad cans of spray ruining figures), but do want to make that a thing now. I just use brush on polyurethane varnish from Vallejo. Less to go wrong than rattle cans, dries more clearly than acrylic in my opinion. Coloured primers are a double edged sword. If you are batch painting models that are mostly one colour (space marines) then it can be a time saver to crank out an army. If you are doing individual characters not so much. And depending on the colour it can make things harder like trying to paint skin tones. I remove mold lines with a knife but advocate wet palettes. Horses for courses! Ugleb fucked around with this message at 11:14 on Aug 19, 2021 |
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Aug 19, 2021 07:22
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Pb and Jellyfish posted:Thanks for the rundown. Yeah I wasn't sure if the game mechanics were going to be good, but the figures made it a no brainer. I'll certainly give the rules as written a shot and see how it feels, but I imagine plenty of people have bastardized 40k or some other tabletop rules for skirmishy or campaign stuff, or I'll do like you did and use the old boardgame (heard good things but never played it). Apparently there was a version of that boardgame on newgrounds, but of course that is dead now thanks to flash dying which is a real shame. If you have Tabletop Simulator, the old Aliens game is on there. It's why I bought TTS back during lockdown for a nostalgia burst. It was great back in the day because it was one of the rare solo games and who actually has friends? The board, if printed up, would need to be resized for these figures but super easy to sort out. The issues I have with AGDITC are: There's a deck of Endurance cards. You take equipment cards from this, so the more stuff you carry (or later equip mid-game) the smaller this deck is. Every time you shoot a gun etc you exhaust some of these cards. Which means you have to spend some of your two actions per marine to "rest" and recycle cards back into the Endurance deck. Some cards get discarded, and 50% of all discarded cards are out of the campaign forever, and if the Endurance deck was empty then cards you spend to do things go straight to the discard. It's a super interesting idea, and I like it very much. Buuuuuut... There's also these very nice chunky cardboard aim dials for each marine. You set them to their aim value at the start of each round. On the D10 you roll equal or under it to hit. Nice and easy. Each time you fire, that dial gets turned to lower the aim by one, so subsequent shots are more difficult. Another super interesting idea, that I also like very much. Buuuuuut... There's a deck of motion tracker cards to spawn aliens. Sometimes a lot of blips (like in Space Hulk), sometimes just a couple. It says which of the 4 fixed spawn points they arrive at, if there are bonus blips elsewhere, or sometimes a tunnel opens right next to you. Each blip when flipped in line of sight may be multiple aliens, anywhere from 1-5 of them on a single square, and the extra aliens are represented by putting a stack of tokens underneath the mode. Those act as extra wounds to be chipped away one shot at a time, and are a +1 to the aliens when they run up and attack. A fairly interesting idea, that I kinda accept. Buuuuuut... Here's the thing: all those conflict with each other. Burning through a limited deck of (refreshable) cards to simulate ammunition/morale etc is great. But if firing more means I can lose the game because I emptied that deck, then why have the aim dials to make it harder to hit things as well? Better to have the tactical choice to burn more cards to deal with the wall of aliens approaching instead of running/resting. And if shooting more gets harder with each shot, why bother with a deck of cards to keep track of, the fail state here would be missing the aliens and having them run up and haul me off for egg duty. And both of these mechanics exist to stop you shooting too much only because the "stack up a bunch of aliens on a single square" thing means there are literal walls of aliens moving towards you and you would mow them all down too easily without the limits on how much you can shoot. It just feels like they have three individually good ideas, and "pick any two" would have worked really well, but they shoved in all three and so you end up with a ton of busywork and a visually overwhelming wave of alien models when fewer aliens, fewer mechanics, less admin, would have been a faster more fluid game. And I know what that looks like because, again, I played the 1989 Leading Edge game which was exactly that. Moving a group of 9 marines across a large reactor room board, losing 3-4 of them along the way *without* each loss leading to a death spiral, because in this game you still draw the same number of motion tracker cards and if you don't have a flamer to burn up a ton of aliens stacked up at the front of the wall then those two or three shots per marine from the rest of them will not cut it. What it means here, is that sometimes you would activate a marine, then exhaust a card to fire a pulse rifle, roll a die to hit, pick up an alien model and remove a counter from under it, then turn the aim dial down, exhaust another card to fire in full-auto, roll the die, remove another counter, turn the dial down again, exhaust a card, roll the die, miss, turn the aim dial down... now that's a lot of admin to go through to remove two aliens from the board, and visually the game layout would look identical as all you would have done is remove two of the extra wounds/attacks that one stack had. That's a little demoralising. Now my experience of that first mission, which was the initial find Newt scenario (the larger version using the extra boards from the Get Away From Her You Bitch expansion) had me being super cautious at the beginning as I didn't know how dangerous the aliens would be. Turns out some of the characters are really good at fighting off alien attacks in close combat, if you keep them to the front. And you will get a lot of those attacks because of how many aliens are swarming you. But I lost the scenario because you need to find and "recruit" Newt so she can take endless rest actions to recycle cards for the marines. Because I didn't get her quickly enough, I was swarmed by aliens because I had to keep resting the shooters to recycle cards. So a replay where I get to her quickly at any cost will change things greatly. Not to sound too negative, and I really do want to like (and if need be, fix) this game is that it really is so close to being amazing. Before it was Custer's last stand, I had moments like Hicks and Ripley as the rearguard near a doorway, and tunnel suddenly burst open on the other side of the door and aliens spilled out. Hicks starts blasting, Ripley drew the hazard "deep seated trauma" as it triggered her PTSD, she fires and misses then she slams the door shut and barricades it. Hicks plays the event card "just deal with it" to remove the hazard card from her as they book it down the corridor and it was... well it was so, so good. I will find a way to make this work though, because there exist some third party "Hanley's Hope" wink wink resin terrain to place on these boards which includes science lab tubes full of facehuggers, little vehicles to sit outside the north dock, doors and barricades and sci-fi office cubicles. Lots of really cool stuff to paint up. I just reckon the game needs to drop either the aim dials, the limit on number of actions per turn, or ditch the extra alien counters. Just strip out one of the overlapping elements to speed it up. I think it'll be a quick fix, but I'll wait and play more before messing with it. Don't let me put you off it, just want you to be aware it's very close to being very good, but like the figures "some assembly required" on the rules. Apologies for game chat in the painting thread.
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Aug 19, 2021 07:38
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Parkingtigers posted:Apologies for game chat in the painting thread. I know it's off topic but that's a game I'm curious about but the admin looked too intense, with so much shuffling as you burn through various decks then back around again. It'd be a great game for apps to do everything. I liked how it handled more players. You bring 6 characters, always. Every character has two stat sets, one where they're just a random background character, one where they're a main character with better aim, better fighting abilities, unique interactions with weapons, discarding/recovering cards etc. Each player picks one character with the enhanced stats. The more players you have, the more alien motion tracker cards you draw each turn, it's not perfect though as from memory if you have 3 players you draw the same alien cards as 4 players, it's brutal to have the extra enemies without extra firepower. I watched a few videos while thinking about buying it, for some reason they stopped supplying it in Australia for a while, so I was saved until I lost interest. It looked thematic as hell and the cards did tell great stories at times. There seemed to be a lot of common errors in lets plays like not understanding firing full auto just exhausted one extra card, not the initial cost to fire with each successive shot. The motion tracker deck looked like it needed 25% more filler, the amount of times it was "spawn shitloads of blips at A" *reshuffle* "spawn shitloads of blips at A again" wasn't cool. I agree the aim dial thing is weird, it's such a clunky way to physically track it. I get what they were going for and aim reducing with each shot is great for tension - do you stretch and possibly waste a card shooting or hope you survive close combat? In practise it was "oh yeah I forgot to reset my dial" constantly.
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Aug 19, 2021 10:28
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Bucnasti posted:I have a pistol grip Dremel drill (as opposed to a rotary tool) and it works great, but I don't think they sell them anymore. Hah, that's strange. I'll check it out.
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Aug 19, 2021 10:30
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Hey you guys using oil paints, I got some questions. How much thinner do you typically need for doing oil washes? I'm in California where you can't buy large containers of mineral spirits, is a 500ml bottle going to be enough to last me awhile? or should I use something else? And if so is there something else that will work as well as mineral spriits? I've been told acetone and turpentine (as well as charcoal lighter fluid) can both be used, but I don't know how those will interact with acrylic paints. I tried using Tamaya thinner to clean up some oil based panel liner and it destroyed the paint underneath so I'd like to avoid that. I'd also like to share this conversation I had with a Customer Service rep. CS: We can't ship 1 quart of Mineral Spirits to California. Instead we can substitute a smaller size, 32oz or smaller, or we can refund your purchse. Me: 1 quart is 32oz CS: We reccomend this other brand in 1 liter Me: 1 liter is 33oz, but why don't you just send me 500ml to be safe.
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Aug 19, 2021 15:09
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Try Dick Blick. When I lived in CA you could get decent sizes in person if you're near one: https://www.dickblick.com/products/maimeri-white-spirit https://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-newton-artists-white-spirit I find that maimeri smells worse, but both are solid. You can use terps to clean your brushes, but I don't recommend it for making washes because its harsher on your model, the paints themselves, and your brushes. You can also reuse these solvents- keep a little jar around with the "dirty" spirit and dip your brushes in there without agitation if you need to clean something between oils/enamels. 500ml is enough for ~30 infantry models if you're also using it to clean your tools, but I always feel like I have to be careful with it. If you know you're going to be pre mixing or doing lots of terrain grab two bottles.
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Aug 19, 2021 18:27
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Slightly off-topic, and a little aggro, but I think the dude behind Eons of Battle has the most punchable face in the entire hobby.
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Aug 19, 2021 18:46
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What magnets are people using for bases?
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Aug 19, 2021 19:33
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You should be able to find Gamsol in small bottles too which is supposed to be the gold standard of non stinky mineral spirits. To save on solvent have two small containers filled, dip dirty brushes in one, wipe on paper towel and do it again until it wipes mostly clean then dip into the second clean container for a final wipe. That should stretch out a pretty small amount of solvent for a session.
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Aug 19, 2021 19:34
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punishedkissinger posted:What magnets are people using for bases? I ended up buying the Cobalt Keep magnets and bases and just rebased my armies.
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Aug 19, 2021 19:37
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Eej posted:You should be able to find Gamsol in small bottles too which is supposed to be the gold standard of non stinky mineral spirits. This is wisdom right here
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Aug 19, 2021 20:11
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Finished up my Lord of Change that I got for last Christmas.  Now Magnus has a friend! 
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Aug 19, 2021 20:11
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BULBASAUR posted:Try Dick Blick. When I lived in CA you could get decent sizes in person if you're near one: Ah, this was Dick Blick, but I was only searching for "Mineral Spirit" and not "White Spirit" which I understand is the exact same thing, and I'm wouldn't be surprised if it isn't covered by the regulations on Mineral Spirits.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:27
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Question for anyone who's been using ProAcryl paints: How do you stop the dropper bottles from oozing a little bit of paint out of the tip when you screw them shut? They're really good other than this one tiny annoyance.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:52
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punishedkissinger posted:What magnets are people using for bases? 6 x 2 mm or 5 x 2 mm works the best for me. At a decent grade magnets (like n42+) they almost stick too well to actual metal. I have to be a little careful picking up my 25mm bases because they sit so tight and the model will come off it not glued properly. They’re also the ones that come with the ‘a-cases’ for example. 1 under smaller bases, 2 under bigger ones and 3 under resin leviathan and up. If you going for the best possible, the suggestion of putting a big glob of hot glue under the base and seating the magnet in that, so it’s flush with the base works even better for bigger bases, since they have more of a lib. I’ve not found it necessary though so didn’t bother redoing it, even for my bigger models.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:56
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Revelation 2-13 posted:6 x 2 mm or 5 x 2 mm works the best for me. At a decent grade magnets (like n42+) they almost stick too well to actual metal. I have to be a little careful picking up my 25mm bases because they sit so tight and the model will come off it not glued properly. They’re also the ones that come with the ‘a-cases’ for example. 1 under smaller bases, 2 under bigger ones and 3 under resin leviathan and up. If you going for the best possible, the suggestion of putting a big glob of hot glue under the base and seating the magnet in that, so it’s flush with the base works even better for bigger bases, since they have more of a lib. I’ve not found it necessary though so didn’t bother redoing it, even for my bigger models. Thanks! That answers most of my questions.
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Aug 19, 2021 21:02
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I've been feeling nostalgic for The old MMORPG City of Heroes recently. That game had an awesome character creator, I don't know how many characters I made but it was a lot! I'd like to try and recreate one of my old characters in miniature form. Does anyone know of a similar tool to create 3d printable superheroes? I've been on Heroforge and the options are close but not quite right.
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Aug 19, 2021 21:23
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AndyElusive posted:Slightly off-topic, and a little aggro, but I think the dude behind Eons of Battle has the most punchable face in the entire hobby. You're not wrong. That dude doesn't know his rear end from a hole in the ground and spews the dumbest "advice" possible. He has an entire video about why GW pots are superior to dropper bottles that he presents as fact, and that should tell anyone all they need to know about his level of expertise.
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Aug 19, 2021 21:44
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Spanish Manlove posted:Question for anyone who's been using ProAcryl paints: By buying the flip top bottle caps. They're cheap and well worth it.
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Aug 19, 2021 21:51
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Lord Ludikrous posted:Finished up my Lord of Change that I got for last Christmas. Sweet bird
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Aug 19, 2021 23:04
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Silhouette posted:You're not wrong. That dude doesn't know his rear end from a hole in the ground and spews the dumbest "advice" possible. He has an entire video about why GW pots are superior to dropper bottles that he presents as fact, and that should tell anyone all they need to know about his level of expertise. You're taking him way too seriously, definitely more seriously than he takes himself. He does a lot very quickly with cheap, easy to get materials. AndyElusive posted:Slightly off-topic, and a little aggro, but I think the dude behind Eons of Battle has the most punchable face in the entire hobby. Bold claim when majorkill is right there. He come up in the 40k thread, I couldn't remember why I put him in the trash bin, I tried watching one of his videos and could not stand how every single sentence, no matter how short or where it falls in a paragraph, ends with a drawn out emphasis and raising tone. He's trying to vary tone to keep interest but moderation my dude.
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Aug 19, 2021 23:28
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Finally finishing up my Frostgrave mooks. Gave them a light code of Mr. Color Super Clear III followed by MiG Ultra Matte. I like the finish overall. I definitely made a lot of mistakes with these guys but overall i'm pretty happy and learned a lot. I probably could keep fixing my little mistakes for forever, but at a certain point I have to get these on the table and use them. Might as well move on to the next batch now I think.  
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Aug 19, 2021 23:50
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Wow, that torchlight came out incredible, great work!
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Aug 20, 2021 06:23
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Eediot Jedi posted:
I got clickbaited into a Majorkill video by a title. I managed maybe 10 seconds after the intro before I had to switch it off. It was like listening to the loudest, most in-your-face, chauvinist unsecure nerd in your game store in the early 2000’s. Yikes.
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Aug 20, 2021 06:52
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Ms August joining the DND party for my LGS painting contests. The theme is the rogue, so I thought I'd be cute and do a naruto color scheme. That didn't quite pan out so I just sorta winged it. Not super sneaky with the fire cape but I had fun with it and trying to make it look textured to sell that it's cloth. Kept the base part of the armor plain to make it look flat, and also not draw attention to it. Then the rest of the armor isn't as bright and highlighted as the other month's stuff so it will seem like a more muted blue leather. Still trying to get the hang of NMM so this was good practice. The left hand sword came out a lot better, as that was the second one I did. Started with a neutral grey, then glazed some black into the middle, then built up to white. Need more practice with it and I"m going to watch a ton of Angel Giraldez and Sergio Calvo videos on it.    Also did a test grot to practice a recipe for ork skin in prep for kill team. Came out a little too green when I wanted more bright but not yellow. So a colder green than a warmer green. I should probably highlight the skin with a thin layer of vallejo blue-green. I did a test with livery green, which was too yellow. Then I tried monument hobbies bright pale green and it wasn't green enough so yeah. Good news is that I have 10 grots thanks to an old box set so I have some nice throwaway testers. The theme I want to go for with the Ork Kill Team is 80s metal dudes so I tried to make the grot look like he parties in a parking lot every night  
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Aug 20, 2021 16:12
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Wow that Liquitex white ink sprays really good. thanks for the recommendation! Looking forward to painting up all of these DS NPCs.
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Aug 20, 2021 17:08
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Is that the ink zenithaled straight over a black primer, or is there a grey used at a lower angle?
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Aug 20, 2021 17:14
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Floppychop posted:Is that the ink zenithaled straight over a black primer, or is there a grey used at a lower angle? I did a fairly heavy coat straight down and then some really light passes at like 60 degrees. In the future im going to try and do the process woth some brown at 60 degrees as has been recommended.
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Aug 20, 2021 17:17
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Eyyy, I'm two Guardspeople into the box, and I don't think I did half bad on the skin-parts and I'm real happy with the eye wound. The edges are a bit rough but I've been trying not to rely on the Insane-detail brush as much, and these fuckers feel tiny compared to the space marines even though they're...kind of not?  Shout out to whoever posted the cheap LED ring lamp earlier in the thread, too. My setup is growing, and I've gotten enough Vallejo bottles and a few Citadel pots at this point that I should probably start looking into a rack. Squiggle fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Aug 20, 2021 |
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Aug 20, 2021 18:46
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Squiggle posted:Eyyy, I'm two Guardspeople into the box, and I don't think I did half bad on the skin-parts. Shout out to whoever posted the cheap LED ring lamp earlier in the thread, too. these look fantastic!
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Aug 20, 2021 18:49
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punishedkissinger posted:Wow that Liquitex white ink sprays really good. thanks for the recommendation! Looking forward to painting up all of these DS NPCs. Nice work
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Aug 20, 2021 19:00
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Squiggle posted:Eyyy, I'm two Guardspeople into the box, and I don't think I did half bad on the skin-parts and I'm real happy with the eye wound. The edges are a bit rough but I've been trying not to rely on the Insane-detail brush as much, and these fuckers feel tiny compared to the space marines even though they're...kind of not? yeah these look really good! p.s. drop a linke to that ring lamp too
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Aug 20, 2021 19:05
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Thank you both! My wife has already press-ganged the injured Guardswoman for her monitor squad. This is the lamp, which doubles as my webcam lighting when not on the painting desk. I do wish its whole neck was flexible, instead of just the top third or so, but for 28 clams I can deal.
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Aug 20, 2021 19:33
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lmao i thought it was called the mlady lamp
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Aug 20, 2021 19:48
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Squiggle fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Aug 20, 2021 |
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Aug 20, 2021 20:46
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