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The Gunslinger
Jul 24, 2004

Do not forget the face of your father.
Fun Shoe
Thanks for the advice on the AIO, I forgot one other question. I just picked up an MSI B550 Gaming Plus, is there any easy way of telling if I'm going to need to update the bios beforehand? I don't see a date of manufacture anywhere on the package but maybe I'm missing it. I don't want to get the whole thing assembled then discover I need to install an older CPU to get it to boot and update the bios.

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Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

The Gunslinger posted:

Thanks for the advice on the AIO, I forgot one other question. I just picked up an MSI B550 Gaming Plus, is there any easy way of telling if I'm going to need to update the bios beforehand? I don't see a date of manufacture anywhere on the package but maybe I'm missing it. I don't want to get the whole thing assembled then discover I need to install an older CPU to get it to boot and update the bios.

I’d you’re worried, just do the bios flashback (it’s done without the CPU in).

There is typically a sticker that says “zen 3 ready” or whatever poo poo if it’s good to go.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Yeah and MSI says they'll send you all the gear you need to reflash the bios if you for some reason do not have access to it yourself. But I think doing it yourself would only involve a pc to download the bios update and a usb stick anyway.

bergeoisie
Aug 29, 2004
I ended up swapping to one of the wifi compat motherboards and placed the order today! Thanks so much. You all saved me like a hundred bucks.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

PittTheElder posted:

Yeah and MSI says they'll send you all the gear you need to reflash the bios if you for some reason do not have access to it yourself. But I think doing it yourself would only involve a pc to download the bios update and a usb stick anyway.

If you don't have a flashback button you need to use an older, compatible CPU to update the BIOS. In that case they'll send you a CPU.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
yeah the bios normally still needs a CPU, which is why you can only get in there after you post. the usb flashback feature gets around this.

Helter Skelter
Feb 10, 2004

BEARD OF HAVOC

Any B550 board sold in the last 6+ months should boot up with a 5600X just fine.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Helter Skelter posted:

Any B550 board sold in the last 6+ months should boot up with a 5600X just fine.

I can say with about 99.9% certainty that any B550 board from MSI, Gigabyte, or Asus will. Other brands I'm less confident about. There was someone here a couple months ago with a Biostar B550 board that didn't come with Zen 3 support.

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004
Are there any strictly 2 slot (i.e. Dan A4 compatible) graphics cards in the current generation with comparible performance to a Radeon VII? It looks like I'm limited to nVidia FE cards with absolutely nothing available from AMD.

My VII has died 2 1/2 years into it's 3 year warranty and after a month's wait I'm being offered a refund that's considerably less than the current selling price for broken ones on eBay. I need to know if it's worth pressing the retailer for an equivalent card (I guess something like a 6700XT if there's one that fits), a better refund or to just send me the broken card back if they can even get it back from Sapphire.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Yeep posted:

Are there any strictly 2 slot (i.e. Dan A4 compatible) graphics cards in the current generation with comparible performance to a Radeon VII? It looks like I'm limited to nVidia FE cards with absolutely nothing available from AMD.

My VII has died 2 1/2 years into it's 3 year warranty and after a month's wait I'm being offered a refund that's considerably less than the current selling price for broken ones on eBay. I need to know if it's worth pressing the retailer for an equivalent card (I guess something like a 6700XT if there's one that fits), a better refund or to just send me the broken card back if they can even get it back from Sapphire.

The 6700 XT reference card is exactly two slots wide (40mm thick), and there are a ton of those on ebay for less than $800.

The RTX 3060 is apparently 1% behind the Radeon VII according to TechPowerUp's rankings and 7% behind it according to TomsHardware's, for whatever those are worth. There are plenty of two-slot versions of that, and a 3060 would give you access to NVidia's RTX and DLSS, if nothing else. Lower TDP, too. In terms of pure rasterization performance, the 6700 XT is likely the better buy though if we're just going by the prices on ebay.

Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 12:35 on Aug 20, 2021

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

The 6700 XT reference card is exactly two slots wide (40mm thick), and there are a ton of those on ebay for less than $800.

The 6800 reference was two slots as well and would be ideal but it looks like outside of the initial batch you can't get any of the reference cards in the UK. I think my best option is probably to convince Overclockers to hassle Sapphire about the RMA in the hope I either get a VII or a reference 6700 or 6800 back. If they send me something that doesn't fit I can always sell it on eBay and sit on a stock alert for something that does.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Yeep posted:

Are there any strictly 2 slot (i.e. Dan A4 compatible) graphics cards in the current generation with comparible performance to a Radeon VII? It looks like I'm limited to nVidia FE cards with absolutely nothing available from AMD.

My VII has died 2 1/2 years into it's 3 year warranty and after a month's wait I'm being offered a refund that's considerably less than the current selling price for broken ones on eBay. I need to know if it's worth pressing the retailer for an equivalent card (I guess something like a 6700XT if there's one that fits), a better refund or to just send me the broken card back if they can even get it back from Sapphire.

What’s the $ amount?

If they aren’t giving you enough to purchase a card of equal performance or better (it sounds like they aren’t), I would not accept.

I would ask them for proof of a equal card you could buy (that is possible to buy) at that value, and if not push harder.

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

Inexperienced,
heartless,
but even so
Can someone help me source an SSD for a Playstation 5?

Requirements:

Sony posted:

Interface: PCIe Gen4 x4 M.2 NVMe SSD

Capacity: 250GB – 4TB

Cooling structure: Using an M.2 SSD with your PS5 console requires effective heat dissipation with a cooling structure, such as a heatsink. You can attach one to your M.2 SSD yourself, either in a single-sided format, or double-sided format. There are also M.2 SSDs that have cooling structures (such as heatsinks) built in.

Sequential read speed: 5,500MB/s or faster is recommended

Module width: 22mm width (25mm width is not supported)

Form Factor: M.2 type 2230, 2242, 2260, 2280 and 22110.
These numbers can be found on retail listings for M.2 SSD devices. The first two digits refer to the width, the remaining digits to the length.

Socket type: Socket 3 (Key M)

Total size including cooling structure:
In millimeters: smaller than 110mm (L) x 25mm (W) x 11.25mm (H).
In inches: smaller than 4.33in (L) x 0.984 in (W) x 0.442in (H).

See below for full requirements.

Length

The following M.2 SSD lengths are compatible with PS5 consoles:
30mm, 42mm, 60mm, 80mm, 110mm (corresponding to the form factor type, per above).

Width
A 22mm-wide M.2 SSD module is required.
The total structure (including an added cooling structure) cannot exceed 25mm (0.984in).

Height
The total height of the M.2 SSD and its cooling structure (such as a heatsink) – whether built-in or separate – must be less than 11.25mm (0.442in).
The height must also be in the right place, in relation to the M.2 SSD’s circuit board:

The size below the board must be less than 2.45mm (0.096in). The total size above the board must be less than 8mm (0.314in).
(Note: millimeter measurements are the technical standard and are more precise than inches. We recommend double-checking that the total dimensions of M.2 SSD and heatsink products you’re considering meet the millimeter requirements before purchasing)

I was going to just throw a 1TB Western Digital Black drive on there, but the heatsink requirements are a bit uncertain for me, and also I'm not sure what kind of bandwidth the PS5 has for reading from the drive, so I didn't want to over-spec the SSD.

Khorne
May 1, 2002

PRADA SLUT posted:

Can someone help me source an SSD for a Playstation 5?

Requirements:

I was going to just throw a 1TB Western Digital Black drive on there, but the heatsink requirements are a bit uncertain for me, and also I'm not sure what kind of bandwidth the PS5 has for reading from the drive, so I didn't want to over-spec the SSD.
I've heard there are heatsink compat issues. sn750 won't be overkill. If you were going 2tb+ I'd recommend a different drive to save money, but at 1tb sn750 is fairly affordable if you get it on sale.

I'd google "reddit ps5 sn750 heatsink" or something similar to see what people who have tried it are saying.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
yeah the LTT video implied you needed PCI gen 4 with a throughput of 5000 uh...units/second speed. the thread fave the SN550 only does about 3000 iirc.

change my name
Aug 27, 2007

Legends die but anime is forever.

RIP The Lost Otakus.

I don't think heat sink height matters at all either, plenty of people in the comments for that LTT video said they threw one in and just removed the plastic cover that encloses the M.2 slot

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

PRADA SLUT posted:

Can someone help me source an SSD for a Playstation 5?

Requirements:

I was going to just throw a 1TB Western Digital Black drive on there, but the heatsink requirements are a bit uncertain for me, and also I'm not sure what kind of bandwidth the PS5 has for reading from the drive, so I didn't want to over-spec the SSD.

The drive you linked doesn't meet the PS5's speed requirements strictly speaking, but it will work without much noticeable downgrade in performance. Lots of testing has been done at this point, and the only hard-and-fast rule is that the drive must be Gen 4, which that one is. The PS5 wants 5000MB/s however, and that drive is just 3600MB/s. What this means in practice is that load times will be about 10 to 20% slower, which for the PS5 means one to two seconds. People have even tested those slower gen 4 drives in ratchet and clank, and the difference is barely noticeable. That said, there's no telling if future PS5 games will be even more demanding somehow and the slower drives will start performing noticeably worse.

What I recommend instead of the SN750 is the Corsair MP600. $10 more than the drive you linked and about a gig per second faster. There will be no noticeable difference between that and the PS5's own SSD whatsoever, and the difference in price is made up for the fact that it comes with its own heatsink, so you don't have to buy an aftermarket one.

Harvey Baldman
Jan 11, 2011

ATTORNEY AT LAW
Justice is bald, like an eagle, or Lady Liberty's docket.

This might be the right thread for this question?

I just got hired at a place that does toymaking, prop fabrication, awards, that kind of thing. I'm doing digital work for them - 3D modeling, ZBrush, some rendering, some machining, some 3D printing. I've got a comfortable PC setup at home that I do all of this with already, but it's also tied into things like my entertainment room projector, smart home stuff, and I play games on it. Basically, I don't want to bring my home PC to work.

My home PC that I do all of this stuff with presently is:

  • Intel i7-5930K CPU (12 CPUs, clocked to ~3.7GHz)
  • 32GB Ram
  • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070
  • An SSD for the OS and some essentials (~500GB) and regular drives for the rest (~5TB).

I'm in the US (California).

Most of the heaviest computational work I do is with some dense ZBrush meshes (50+ million polys) and rendering.

My new bosses told me to look for a good off-the-shelf option that could be bought that I could use for comparable work. I honestly don't know where to start. I suggested that I could build something out of picked parts, but they don't want that. They haven't laid out a budget for me yet, they wanted me to link some options to them. Are there any good deals that would get me something comparable that I can look at and show them?

Harvey Baldman fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Aug 21, 2021

codo27
Apr 21, 2008

Y'know, I really dont mind the sound of my desktop, loud as it is. The cost of doing business, I figure. I have the volume pumped loud or using a headset anyway.

But I'm having to RMA my board, so after just taking it out, I connected my main monitor & m&kb to my laptop dock and am using that as primary instead of secondary now. God is it nice to sit at my desk and not hear that plane lift off. Starting to hatch ideas of how I can station the tower out in the hall or something

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

codo27 posted:

Y'know, I really dont mind the sound of my desktop, loud as it is. The cost of doing business, I figure. I have the volume pumped loud or using a headset anyway.

But I'm having to RMA my board, so after just taking it out, I connected my main monitor & m&kb to my laptop dock and am using that as primary instead of secondary now. God is it nice to sit at my desk and not hear that plane lift off. Starting to hatch ideas of how I can station the tower out in the hall or something

what's your rig like, in terms of airflow specifically? you can replace eg 120mm fans with noctuas which are famously quiet (and expensive) or go over to partial or full water, deal with pump gurgle a bit but should allow a bunch more fans running at lower temperatures. if there are components that are struggling, like an overheated GPU, that's when you get the cheap airport adjacent real estate experience.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Alternatively, now's the perfect time to get a new case/cooler and rebuild your system. Grab something that's well ventilated (with a mesh front or something), some quiet PWM fans from Scythe, Arctic, or Noctua, and a Fuma 2 cooler, and you'll barely ever hear your PC.

codo27
Apr 21, 2008

I already swapped out the stock case fans with Noctuas, I think really I could prob just stand to loosen the curve so they dont all spin up so fast when its maybe not needed. I got 2 120s on top, one on back, two on the radiator in the front. Plus the fans on my 2080.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

codo27 posted:

I already swapped out the stock case fans with Noctuas, I think really I could prob just stand to loosen the curve so they dont all spin up so fast when its maybe not needed. I got 2 120s on top, one on back, two on the radiator in the front. Plus the fans on my 2080.

three 120s should be enough for a 2080 i would expect, particularly noctuas unless you're overclocking it a lot or running something esoteric in the case. yeah i'd have a look at the curve for sure.

e: wait, right? 3x 120 should be plenty if he's got a rad for the CPU. that system should be running relatively cool or very quiet. what's the GPU specifically?

codo27
Apr 21, 2008

Its an all-EVGA build I did a couple of years ago. Was featured on Mods Rigs https://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=40614

I've removed the glass front plate to encourage airflow. I do believe its actually 140mms on the rad though

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

codo27 posted:

Its an all-EVGA build I did a couple of years ago. Was featured on Mods Rigs https://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=40614

I've removed the glass front plate to encourage airflow. I do believe its actually 140mms on the rad though

sweet! sick rig. drat that...really should not be having significant thermal or acoustic issues to be honest? my expectation of that quantity and quality of fans would be a very quiet and cool experience. check the gpu's fancurve specifically, those things can really sound loving loud when they get going.

codo27
Apr 21, 2008

I dont have any temp issues really, prob because the things are set up to blow so early in the curve. Definitely gonna have a look at it once I receive my cross ship replacement and make it not kick in until a much higher temp.

I didn't realize at the time of building that I only would have 2 SMART headers. So I ended up adding a controller a while back because it was even worse before when a few of the case fans would just have to be set to a static value so of course hamfisted ol me set it to 100%

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

codo27 posted:

Its an all-EVGA build I did a couple of years ago. Was featured on Mods Rigs https://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=40614

I've removed the glass front plate to encourage airflow. I do believe its actually 140mms on the rad though

That case looks like it has horrible airflow. The front is basically fully closed off. It might not be too bad if there’s just a filter behind that lifted panel, but it’s probably still not great.

Front mount rad is also really hurting you there.

A.) rad blocks airflow from the front of the case (if there even is any).
B.) if rad exhausts into the case, you’re just dumping All the hot CPU air back into the case and raising the overall case temp.
C). If rad exhausts to front, air escape path is potentially bad.

Additionally, if all those other extra fans aren’t set to a good exhaust/intake, they’re useless.

Like, if everything is exhaust except the bottom fans the cooling is probably poo poo.

For fan curves, you should have them set to ramp slowly. The slower they ramp, the less likely you are to notice them.

As general advice, we’d need a whole lot more detail.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Harvey Baldman posted:

This might be the right thread for this question?

I just got hired at a place that does toymaking, prop fabrication, awards, that kind of thing. I'm doing digital work for them - 3D modeling, ZBrush, some rendering, some machining, some 3D printing. I've got a comfortable PC setup at home that I do all of this with already, but it's also tied into things like my entertainment room projector, smart home stuff, and I play games on it. Basically, I don't want to bring my home PC to work.

My home PC that I do all of this stuff with presently is:

  • Intel i7-5930K CPU (12 CPUs, clocked to ~3.7GHz)
  • 32GB Ram
  • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070
  • An SSD for the OS and some essentials (~500GB) and regular drives for the rest (~5TB).

I'm in the US (California).

Most of the heaviest computational work I do is with some dense ZBrush meshes (50+ million polys) and rendering.

My new bosses told me to look for a good off-the-shelf option that could be bought that I could use for comparable work. I honestly don't know where to start. I suggested that I could build something out of picked parts, but they don't want that. They haven't laid out a budget for me yet, they wanted me to link some options to them. Are there any good deals that would get me something comparable that I can look at and show them?

This is the thread.

Why do they want prebuilt? Is it because they want business class customer service they’re going to pay for? Is it just liability?

If they want specific customer service stuff, then big manufacturer OEMs are where you’re stuck (dell, Hp, Lenovo, etc).

If it’s just they want a warranty and stuff, then I’d probably look at stuff from ABS brand on Newegg. There’s a brand called Skytech that got decent reviews.

You could also do something from like NZXT or other stuff, but most of it is pretty bad.

If I were you, I’d ask for a rough budget. If they are unable to provide one, find any machine that has the max performance you can get for your specific application (highest ram/all SSD storage, 5800x+, best GPU that’ll give a functional advantage, etc) and shove those links at em. You’ll probably get a budget real fast if you start throwing $4000 curve balls.

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

Harvey Baldman posted:

This might be the right thread for this question?

I just got hired at a place that does toymaking, prop fabrication, awards, that kind of thing. I'm doing digital work for them - 3D modeling, ZBrush, some rendering, some machining, some 3D printing. I've got a comfortable PC setup at home that I do all of this with already, but it's also tied into things like my entertainment room projector, smart home stuff, and I play games on it. Basically, I don't want to bring my home PC to work.

My home PC that I do all of this stuff with presently is:

  • Intel i7-5930K CPU (12 CPUs, clocked to ~3.7GHz)
  • 32GB Ram
  • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070
  • An SSD for the OS and some essentials (~500GB) and regular drives for the rest (~5TB).

I'm in the US (California).

Most of the heaviest computational work I do is with some dense ZBrush meshes (50+ million polys) and rendering.

My new bosses told me to look for a good off-the-shelf option that could be bought that I could use for comparable work. I honestly don't know where to start. I suggested that I could build something out of picked parts, but they don't want that. They haven't laid out a budget for me yet, they wanted me to link some options to them. Are there any good deals that would get me something comparable that I can look at and show them?

You don't want to be the guy responsible for a mission critical piece of hardware. Puget Systems specializes in, among other things, workstations for 3d rendering, with price tags to match. All of the big vendors (HP, dell, etc) offer workstation class hardware too. Go spec out some systems on their websites.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Fantastic Foreskin posted:

You don't want to be the guy responsible for a mission critical piece of hardware. Puget Systems specializes in, among other things, workstations for 3d rendering, with price tags to match. All of the big vendors (HP, dell, etc) offer workstation class hardware too. Go spec out some systems on their websites.

This is better advice that mine.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

That case looks like it has horrible airflow.

As general advice, we’d need a whole lot more detail.

see, even with all that - maybe if the rad is exhausting in or the PSU is but still, I wouldn't expect a "jet engine". there's nothing in there generating heat but the GPU and the goofy chipset VRMs or whatever, everything else should be venting away from the case. three good 120mm fans should be managing that pretty well unless their config is like, recirculating air or super clogged with dust or something. or they live in a super hot place I guess.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

CoolCab posted:

see, even with all that - maybe if the rad is exhausting in or the PSU is but still, I wouldn't expect a "jet engine". there's nothing in there generating heat but the GPU and the goofy chipset VRMs or whatever, everything else should be venting away from the case. three good 120mm fans should be managing that pretty well unless their config is like, recirculating air or super clogged with dust or something. or they live in a super hot place I guess.

Or they’re doing something crazy like all exhaust except the rad.

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

What’s the $ amount?

If they aren’t giving you enough to purchase a card of equal performance or better (it sounds like they aren’t), I would not accept.

I would ask them for proof of a equal card you could buy (that is possible to buy) at that value, and if not push harder.

The offer is £460 on an original purchase price of £650. There's no way I'm taking that when broken Radeon VII are selling for £550 on eBay and working ones are £900-1k.

My very vague understanding of UK law in this area is that the responsibility for repair or replacement lies with the manufacturer, but because they've taken more than 28 days the retailer is required to offer me a refund instead if I want, minus some amount for the fact I had use of the card for 2 1/2 years. I can't find any information on what the legislation is for products that have appreciated since purchase.

codo27
Apr 21, 2008

Is there a guide someone can link with ideal air flow patterns?

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

codo27 posted:

Is there a guide someone can link with ideal air flow patterns?

It depends on where the case is positioned, but generally a pair of intake fans on one end and an exhaust fan on the other will do as well as you're getting. The important thing is to make sure none of the fans are obstructed - typically this would be by the case having mostly solid panel in front of them, or insufficient clearance for a bottom mounted intake (don't do a bottom mounted intake, too much potential for issues).

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

codo27 posted:

Is there a guide someone can link with ideal air flow patterns?

The best thing I can recommend based on your previous post is giving us good pictures of your build where we can see all the fans and the front+back+top of the case (not all in the same picture, different images is fine).

From there we can help out find a good config. Each setup is different and it’s hard to recommend generic for the most part, especially with a rad involved.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Yeep posted:

The offer is £460 on an original purchase price of £650. There's no way I'm taking that when broken Radeon VII are selling for £550 on eBay and working ones are £900-1k.

My very vague understanding of UK law in this area is that the responsibility for repair or replacement lies with the manufacturer, but because they've taken more than 28 days the retailer is required to offer me a refund instead if I want, minus some amount for the fact I had use of the card for 2 1/2 years. I can't find any information on what the legislation is for products that have appreciated since purchase.

I can’t comment on UK law. Maybe Cab has ideas, but in the current market and based on what you posted I’d be putting pressure on the manufacturer to get a repair. The retailer is probably a dead end.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
i've never had to deal with it but it wouldn't astonish me at all to learn the retailer is on the hook for a full cash refund, entirely plausibly less depreciation. i would expect the retailer has a binary responsibility, they give you a working product or your money, they're not obligated to "make you whole" and replace something that has increased in value, at least not typically. maybe if it was insurance or something.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
i mean with that said complain actively, try to speak to a manager, say how you'll be adding this experience to trustpilot, etc. you might get a sympathetic ear, stranger things have happened. but my assumption would be that's not a legal obligation.

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Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Than based off that, manufacturer is who I’d pursue for repair. Cost of cards is too high right now.

Sucks, but it is what it is.

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