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Not a great pic as I await my RMA replacement but you can see all the fans. There's no exterior obstruction. 
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Aug 21, 2021 17:01
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i am not intimately familiar with those fans but i think those are all exhausts? so you've got negative pressure, which explains why taking the side off creates a big impact, the fans are "choking" in the sense they've only access to fresh air via the small holes and machining tolerance gaps in your case. i am terrible at airflow but i don't know that you want total negative pressure with a rad like that, i wonder if it's causing problems with the weaker 140mm fans versus the stronger 120mm ones?
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Aug 21, 2021 17:10
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codo27 posted:Not a great pic as I await my RMA replacement but you can see all the fans. There's no exterior obstruction. I don’t do much with AIO and I could be wrong here, but it looks like that AIO is set to exhaust, and all of the other fans are definitely set to exhaust. That is a problem. It means you have no cool air coming in to replace the hot air being pulled out. Some setups can sustain this, but it’s not common and won’t work with a traditional blower GPU. Assuming I’m right about the radiator, if the rad is going to stay front mounted it should be set to intake. That should make a substantial difference.
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Aug 21, 2021 17:14
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yeah I was going to say contrary to what we were saying I bet dumping the “exhaust” of the CPU back into the case would improve performance here. the radiator won’t be able to add more heat to the fresh air to make a significant difference and you need intake badly. the loud noise could conceivably be the radiator fans fighting with the back and top exhaust actually?
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Aug 21, 2021 17:18
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I just want to clear up that its loud in comparison to my laptop which makes no sound unless its pressed up against my ear. But its definitely too loud regularly, I can hear it spin up when I'm playing a game but its still too drat loud when just noodling around at nothing. I'm gonna play around with it before my new board arrives
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Aug 21, 2021 23:27
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Even if thermals aren't dangerously high with the current configuration, better airflow pathways will definitely give you more freedom to reduce fan speeds. I would give flipping the radiator fans around a shot if those are indeed exhaust as they appear, and then play with the fan curve a bit once you get your mobo back.
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Aug 21, 2021 23:39
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Yeep posted:The offer is £460 on an original purchase price of £650. There's no way I'm taking that when broken Radeon VII are selling for £550 on eBay and working ones are £900-1k. Not a lawyer or anything, but my familiarity with UK consumer law is as follows: Seller is responsible for the claim. Result of the claim can be either a replacement or a refund. You can only get one if it fails due to a defect in material or construction. Refund is for the price you paid for. You have 6 years to make a claim, so you're good there (5 in Scotland but whatever), but they might need you to prove it was a defect (I think it's only presumed for the first 6 months or so, otherwise it's on you), so you'd need to contact the manufacturer or an authorized service place You can also contact Trading Standards or something like that for more info etc, there may also be another org that does these things but I forget the name
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Aug 21, 2021 23:43
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I have never heard of this "minus some amount for use" refund treatment unless the warranty paperwork explicitly specifies that that's what happens (often larger appliances do something like "5 year warranty, 2 years full, third year 75%, fourth year 50%, fifth year 25%"). Sometimes they'll gently caress you a bit with a "restocking fee" but that's nothing to do with how long you had it or used it, and that's generally for "I don't want it" returns, not for "it stopped working and is under warranty". The only other justification for a smaller refund I can think of is if you don't have a receipt and it can't be linked to a specific sale, and at some point it has been at that lower price. But also your apparent expectation of receiving an equally functional item even though they cost more now is not reasonable either. You should be getting *either* that *or* your money back, and which it is would be up to the warranty resolver.
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Aug 21, 2021 23:53
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Question regarding upgrading ram? This is my current ram: https://www.newegg.com/G-SKILL-16GB-288-Pin-DDR4-SDRAM/p/N82E16820232306?Item=N82E16820232306 Which specs do I need to keep consistent with the next 2 sticks that I get? Am I looking to keep with PC3600? Do I need to worry about keeping the timings the same?
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Aug 22, 2021 03:14
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Zotix posted:Question regarding upgrading ram? When mixing sticks, your PC will essentially reduce the speed of the fastest sticks down to the slowest ones. Since DDR4-3600 CL15 memory is no longer available anywhere, you'll need DDR4-3600 CL14 stuff if you don't want to slow your current sticks down (but then you'll be slowing down the new stuff). However, it's hard to say if any of the other random subtimings will cause issues, and there's always the possibility that two sets of RAM will just hate each other and refuse to work together. The best way to get something compatible is to search on ebay for the same model number (F4-3600C15D-16GTZ), but those are looking pretty expensive since that set uses fancy highly overclockable memory chips or something. If you don't care about your memory being slightly slower/less overclockable, then you can probably just get this similar looking CL16 stuff: https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232194 I can't guarantee it will work, but your other options are either spending twice as much on ebay for a used set of CL15 sticks or replacing your current set with a new 32GB set.
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Aug 22, 2021 03:31
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For people looking at the top end of the fan market there is basically no reason to go with anything other than the new Phanteks T30-120. It's essentially GT style blades (same as the A12x25) but with Maglev bearings and at 30mm. It beats up the A12x25 at the same price, and is cheaper in 3 packs. It even has three selectable PWM ranges and goes up to 3000RPM one of many reviews It's even better on radiators, normalised to 35dBA they beat the A12 by 4c on a 145w load here at 10:37
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Aug 22, 2021 07:57
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That TechPowerUp review is hilarious. I don't think I've ever seen a worse way of evaluating noise to performance efficiency than them using "CFM/DBa." Decibels are a logarithmic scale, so a fan that does 50 CFM at 50 DBa is far less efficient than a fan that does 40 CFM at 40 DBa, but they'd get the same rating on that TechPowerUp chart. Them using RPM as their performance categories is the cherry on top. The T30 looks pretty good—those extra five millimeters really help. But I will continue to trust no one but GamersNexus when it comes to reviews for anything related to noise and thermals. And they don't have their fan testing setup ready yet, unfortunately.
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Aug 22, 2021 08:51
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codo27 posted:I just want to clear up that its loud in comparison to my laptop which makes no sound unless its pressed up against my ear. But its definitely too loud regularly, I can hear it spin up when I'm playing a game but its still too drat loud when just noodling around at nothing. I'm gonna play around with it before my new board arrives Your system is installed in a dg-7 series case. These cases have no bottom intake. Which fans are pulling outside air in? Edit: none of the fans. Those radiator fans looked odd, I checked evga's clc lineup. You have no fans bringing cool air through your case. lordofthefishes fucked around with this message at 09:26 on Aug 22, 2021 |
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Aug 22, 2021 09:15
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:That TechPowerUp review is hilarious. I don't think I've ever seen a worse way of evaluating noise to performance efficiency than them using "CFM/DBa." Decibels are a logarithmic scale, so a fan that does 50 CFM at 50 DBa is far less efficient than a fan that does 40 CFM at 40 DBa, but they'd get the same rating on that TechPowerUp chart. Them using RPM as their performance categories is the cherry on top. Yeah, bad one to link reading it more. I should've just said "Google it", but a source felt necessary for a standalone post lol. It's the consensus from any review you click on. The radiator performance in that video is more telling.
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Aug 22, 2021 09:23
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It's really weird to me that a lot of newer cases have fans that suck in air from the bottom. Where dust/pet hair/whatever would most likely be. God help you if there's no screen filter on there.
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Aug 22, 2021 12:56
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The Joe Man posted:It's really weird to me that a lot of newer cases have fans that suck in air from the bottom. Any halfway decent modern case will have filters there though. It's not a problem so long as you clean that filter every so often.
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Aug 22, 2021 14:19
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Found this little gem in the AIO manual Sigh. You're right, nothing was pulling air in. Working on that now.
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Aug 22, 2021 15:24
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codo27 posted:Found this little gem in the AIO manual it would be OK if you had a slightly more standard configuration and it was exhausting out the top (with the front being used as intake) or uhhhh bottom i think radiators are weird but you need some intake for sure. so, you'll still have negative pressure i think - your total exhaust is more than your total intake. there's absolutely nothing wrong with that thermally (so long as you have at least some intake) but it's often avoided because of the dust impact. in a positive pressure case all the intake goes through a fan filter with the pressure causing the air to escape through the many small holes all over your case. negative pressure does the opposite, which means air is getting in through those cracks and crevasses unfiltered, and your filters are mostly catching dust as it tries to escape your case. it's not going to be as severely negative pressure though.
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Aug 22, 2021 15:32
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I got it all flipped around now, top fans are still exhausting but the rads and rear fan are intaking. Looking forward to getting back up and running and seeing how it goes.
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Aug 22, 2021 16:13
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Is this the thread to ask about building a home server PC? It'd be mostly a media server, with occasional multiplayer hosting duties for things like Minecraft and Valheim. I'm curious if I could reuse the mobo/cpu/case from my old PC, but I wouldn't be surprised if there's better options to look into.
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Aug 22, 2021 16:46
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Yes, it's like a lava lamp.
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I'm currently running an MSi B450 Tomahawk Max II as my motherboard. Yesterday, I won a Gigabyte 3060 in the Newegg Shuffle, but it's bundled with a Gigabyte X570 motherboard. I know the X570 is better than the B450 I have now, but how much better? Is it worth the hassle of swapping them out and probably having to reinstall Windows, or just try and flip it on Ebay?
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Aug 22, 2021 16:57
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PittTheElder posted:Is this the thread to ask about building a home server PC? It'd be mostly a media server, with occasional multiplayer hosting duties for things like Minecraft and Valheim. I'm curious if I could reuse the mobo/cpu/case from my old PC, but I wouldn't be surprised if there's better options to look into. How old?
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Aug 22, 2021 18:37
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Like 10 years. I think I bought it in late 2011? The more I think about the more I think I'd prefer a much smaller form factor, seems a bit silly to have a whole second mid size tower under my desk.
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Aug 22, 2021 18:42
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Might be worth asking the NAS thread as well.
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Aug 22, 2021 20:42
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My 12 year old gaming PC has developed motherboard problems, it's time to replace it and the market is terrifying! Any help would be appreciated. Country: USA Purpose: Gaming (Cyberpunk and other FPS), maybe streaming. Budget: $800 computer except graphics card + $infinity graphics card Resolution: 1440p @ 144 FPS if I can afford it, 1200p @ 144 FPS if not I started from PC part picker's "Excellent AMD Gaming/Streaming Build," and made some substitutions. PCPartPicker Part List quote:CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($272.99 @ B&H) If times were normal, I would be looking for a $400-$500 GPU. Since times are not normal, I am considering a Radeon RX 6700 XT for $800-$900 on Newegg. I considered getting a lower-end GPU, to replace in a couple years, but it seems like even a GPU with half the power will still cost at least $600. Or a quarter of the power for $300. I think I need to bite the bullet a pay double MSRP if I want a decent GPU today. Any advice would be welcome.
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Aug 23, 2021 00:00
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I have little useful advice to offer but what's your current graphics card?
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Aug 23, 2021 00:32
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PittTheElder posted:I have little useful advice to offer but what's your current graphics card? It's a Radeon HD7850 2GB, it was a hand-me-down from a newer computer.
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Aug 23, 2021 00:57
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if it's a full from-scratch I hate to say it, here, again, but you legit might consider a prebuild. particularly if you are going to pay double RRP of a GPU, you might wind up paying a premium to build.
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Aug 23, 2021 01:02
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CoolCab posted:if it's a full from-scratch I hate to say it, here, again, but you legit might consider a prebuild. particularly if you are going to pay double RRP of a GPU, you might wind up paying a premium to build. Yeah, I never thought I'd be considering pre-builts, but you may be right. I was looking at this: https://www.microcenter.com/product/637962/powerspec-g510-gaming-pc Similar specs, $200 cheaper. I'm near a Microcenter, so it should be easy to get it serviced. I like building my own computer. I worry about the build quality and upgradeability of a pre-built. But this market is nuts. And at least if the pre-built fails, I should be able to take it back. I am really struggling with this decision.
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Aug 23, 2021 01:12
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the biggest thing is don't assume the thermals will be adequate. it's honestly closer to industry standard for them to be terrible. so, either do some research on what's considered good and/or be ready to upgrade the cooler and possibly add more casefans.
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Aug 23, 2021 01:45
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Okay, after finding a furniture/desk solution that doesn't require a SFF/mITX build, I've settled for an ATX build. This is to go around a 2080: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i7-11700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($389.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($84.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: *ASRock Z590 Pro4 ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Amazon) Memory: *Silicon Power 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($64.97 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Amazon) Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ Best Buy) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($153.98 @ Newegg) Total: $1038.81 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-08-22 23:22 EDT-0400 Would love to play the new battlefield, diablo 4, call of duty, that type of thing. Don't have to play at ultra but right now I'm on an i7-920 and 8gb of old-rear end ram. Target Practice fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Aug 23, 2021 |
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Aug 23, 2021 02:25
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Enough people have posted about fan stuff or general first-time building that I think it's worth mentioning when you finish your build just power it on and off with the side off and make sure your fans are a) not hitting any cables and b) spinning in the directions you wanted them to.
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Aug 23, 2021 05:04
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Andenno posted:Yeah, I never thought I'd be considering pre-builts, but you may be right. I wish the screenshots of its internals weren't so drat dark. I generally don't like compact/mATX cases with a solid PSU shroud on the bottom because it gives the GPU so little room to breathe. But at $1500, that's a more reasonable deal than what you may find anywhere else. However, another option is going the DIY route and buying a card off ebay. The amazon listing you linked has a much higher price than what you can find the 6700 XT for on ebay, which goes for around $750 to $800. Depending on how big the Best Buy drop is next week, that may also cause a temporary deflationary effect on ebay. It did the last time there was a big drop. So my recommendation would be to wait at least until a few days after the upcoming in-store-only Best Buy drop while checking ebay pricing for the 6700 XT, 3060 Ti, and 3070 before making a decision on whether to go prebuilt or DIY. And if nothing else, it may be better to spend $50 to $100 more so you can use the parts you want and build it in the way that makes the most sense for you. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Aug 23, 2021 |
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Aug 23, 2021 05:13
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VelociBacon posted:Enough people have posted about fan stuff or general first-time building that I think it's worth mentioning when you finish your build just power it on and off with the side off and make sure your fans are a) not hitting any cables and b) spinning in the directions you wanted them to. Modern fans will all have airflow pointers somewhere on the chassis to help with mounting! 
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Aug 23, 2021 05:54
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Checking the cable is definitely required though, I left a power cable dangling in my GPU fan once.
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Aug 23, 2021 06:02
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Target Practice posted:Would love to play the new battlefield, diablo 4, call of duty, that type of thing. Don't have to play at ultra but right now I'm on an i7-920 and 8gb of old-rear end ram. The 11700 is a straight up bad processor for the value and you'd be much better off with a Ryzen 5600X and a b550 motherboard. You could get an arctic freezer 34 or scythe fuma 2 for cheaper but still good cooling solutions that match the 5600x well, and I'd put some of the savings from the above into increasing your RAM speed to 3600 because Ryzen likes fast RAM.
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Aug 23, 2021 08:18
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Target Practice posted:Okay, after finding a furniture/desk solution that doesn't require a SFF/mITX build, I've settled for an ATX build. This is to go around a 2080: Got a particular reason for picking intel?
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Aug 23, 2021 08:20
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lordofthefishes posted:Got a particular reason for picking intel? Never built an AMD machine 🤷. I guess familiarity and inertia, so no.
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Aug 23, 2021 14:41
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come over to ryzen! you've more or less waited out most of, if not all the bumps. better performance for less cost, although with upgradability slightly worse since one of the biggest advantages imo (the AM4 socket) is finally being retired. i went intel -> ryzen like most of the enthusiast market, i'm very happy with my move.
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Aug 23, 2021 14:55
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As someone who only relatively recently got interested in PC building again I have no idea why there's even the concept of tribalism in the hobby. They're electronic parts, not sports teams, and there's numerous data available to make objective judgments about the quality of a certain product.
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Aug 23, 2021 15:06
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