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Organic Lube User posted:Here's the battery and a little more of the negative cable. That's probably all I can actually get a pic of without removing other things. https://imgur.com/a/3PmO6O9 I doubt this is the extent of it, but did you clean those clamps before you put them on the new battery posts? It looks like things were getting quite crusty with the old battery. Also, if you grab each of those clamps and try to move them/twist them do they move at all? If they do you don't have a good connection. They may not be tight enough, you may not have gotten them all the way on the post, or it could be some of both.
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Aug 22, 2021 23:21
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You could try making a good ground with a jumper cable, hook the black cable up to the battery negative and find a good fat sturdy bolt on the engine to hook it into, then test again. (Leave the red jumper cable unconnected on both ends) If the car works you have a bad ground cable.
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Aug 22, 2021 23:23
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spankmeister posted:You could try making a good ground with a jumper cable, hook the black cable up to the battery negative and find a good fat sturdy bolt on the engine to hook it into, then test again. (Leave the red jumper cable unconnected on both ends) If the car works you have a bad ground cable. This did it! Started right up. Thanks so much to you and Motronic. Can I just make my own grounding cable as a semi permanent solution? Seems like tracing/replacing the cable would be a real pain in the taint. Also, do I need to do anything about the overfilled oil, or just let the leak take care of it?
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Aug 22, 2021 23:39
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Organic Lube User posted:This did it! Started right up. Thanks so much to you and Motronic. Awesome. So here's the thing....answer my question about the battery terminals/posts.......it may be as simple as cleaning the negative side clamp and properly attaching it. But it may not......it could have a bad connection on the other side, or the cable could be rotten and need replacing. There's likely not a great way to make something temporary, and you'd need parts to do it so either way you probalby need parts.......unless it's just a connection issue on one side or the other. On the oil.....how overfilled is it? Let's see the dip stick. Overfilled oil can get whipped up into a foam by the crank and basically as bad as no oil at all. This will 100% kill your motor beyond reasonable financial repair. So treat it seriously. Edit: give us a shot of the engine bay, at least the half on the battery side. Maybe we can ID a good attachment point for something temporary and you can take a run to the parts store for a short piece of pre-terminated cable that will work. Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Aug 22, 2021 |
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Aug 22, 2021 23:46
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Motronic posted:Awesome. So here's the thing....answer my question about the battery terminals/posts.......it may be as simple as cleaning the negative side clamp and properly attaching it. The terminals don't budge, and I cleaned quite a bit of crap off when I took the old battery out. I'll try to get another pic of that and the dipstick in a bit if there's still light when I have my chance. Is it easy to drain off excess? Just put it up on some jack stands and drain the oil pan, then refill to a measured and verified amount? Could it be okay enough to make it to an oil change shop and just have them get it right? Regarding the grounding cable, my main worry is that I'll have to remove lots of other things just to get to the other end of it, which I'm sure I don't have the tools for.
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Aug 23, 2021 00:23
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Organic Lube User posted:The terminals don't budge, and I cleaned quite a bit of crap off when I took the old battery out. I'll try to get another pic of that and the dipstick in a bit if there's still light when I have my chance. Okay, good. But not good, because it's probably the cable or the connection(s) (looks like there are two) at the other end. Organic Lube User posted:Is it easy to drain off excess? Just put it up on some jack stands and drain the oil pan, then refill to a measured and verified amount? Could it be okay enough to make it to an oil change shop and just have them get it right? Can you drive it safely? That depends on how overfilled it is. If you're ready to get dirty you can just take the drain out for a bit and put it back in and see where you're at. Or drain the whole thing into a clean pan and re-use the oil. Without something like a vac pump this is gonna suck no matter what, but you need to take it seriously if it's badly overfilled. Organic Lube User posted:Regarding the grounding cable, my main worry is that I'll have to remove lots of other things just to get to the other end of it, which I'm sure I don't have the tools for. I hear you. But if we come up with something temporary that works please please please treat it as temporary.
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Aug 23, 2021 00:27
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I have a mobile tire service appointment for tomorrow. They couldn't get the wheels off last time they came because they were too rusted to the hub. I got the wheels off today and I just put the wheels back on without tightening the bolts too much, it should be easy enough to get them off again tomorrow right?
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Aug 23, 2021 18:49
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Popete posted:I have a mobile tire service appointment for tomorrow. They couldn't get the wheels off last time they came because they were too rusted to the hub. I got the wheels off today and I just put the wheels back on without tightening the bolts too much, it should be easy enough to get them off again tomorrow right? You need to torque them properly if you intend to drive it. They will not be stuck again. You should also put some anti seize on the mating surfaces between the wheel and hub/rotor/drum (not the studs/bolts) to prevent this from happening again.
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Aug 23, 2021 19:01
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What the hell is this ugga dugga stuff I keep reading about trying to find proper wheel lug torque? I find even Eric O @ South Main Auto will bring up the ugga duggas. I had a brake job a while back and realized I never got the lugs re-torqued. And who knows if they did it to the proper ft lbs in the first place. I noticed a little more minor steering wheel vibration at 60+ MPH than I'm used to but it could be in my mind. Gonna buy a torque wrench or be lazy and ask if a shop around here could help me out. I'm sure they won't be thrilled since I didn't do the brake work with them. Apparently for my car it's gonna be 90 ft lbs. e: I had a dealer do the brake job which sucks for this reason: if I think there is a problem that could be related to their work, I still have to pay $230 for a diagnostic, and they would refund it only if they found for sure that it was from their work. Real lovely. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Aug 23, 2021 |
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Aug 23, 2021 19:59
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Get a torque wrench. Even Harbor Freight ones are perfectly fine for lug nut purposes.
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Aug 23, 2021 20:37
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Motronic posted:You need to torque them properly if you intend to drive it. They will not be stuck again. Cool thanks. Yeah I have a torque wrench and will do that tomorrow after the tires are installed I won't be driving it with loose lugs. Gotta pick up some anti seize though.
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Aug 23, 2021 20:41
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Inner Light posted:What the hell is this ugga dugga stuff I keep reading about trying to find proper wheel lug torque? I find even Eric O @ South Main Auto will bring up the ugga duggas.
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Aug 23, 2021 20:51
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Inner Light posted:What the hell is this ugga dugga stuff A finely calibrated unit of torque identified by ear when using a precision impact wrench. It's a silly running joke about not actually giving a gently caress about torque specs
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Aug 23, 2021 20:53
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My shop teacher would frequently provide us torque specs in the form of "snug snug"s, ouga douga is the same thing but with impact tools.
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Aug 23, 2021 21:41
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One ugga dugga is one squeeze of the impact's trigger
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Aug 23, 2021 21:53
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It's about equivalent to a gutentight
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Aug 23, 2021 22:29
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2016 Honda Odyssey problems Car 'clicks' on and off rapidly while engine isn't running. On and off by the dash lights/instruments are flickering on and off like crazy but doesn't do this when the engine is running. When off and locked the clicking still happens and occasionally the alarm will randomly go off after minutes or hours of sitting so I've resorted to disconnecting the battery while parked at home. I popped the hood to look around and I saw tree fruit in random places in the engine compartment so some animal has decided to make this car a home. We have been working from home so our cars don't get driven nearly as much as before while the local animals and fruit are not a new thing but maybe the longer duration of parking has given the animals an incentive they didn't have before? At this point I'm thinking some animal has chewed up the wiring but I have to leave town the next day so no time to check further. Let it sit for a week disconnected while I was out of town and the issue of the rapid on/off clicking seems to have gone away. However the random alarm seems to still be present. Called insurance and they said its covered if its animal damage. Took it to a Honda dealer who says its not wiring damage but a bad alternator. Ok....Something about an aftermarket alarm that was installed by the dealer when I bought this minivan new is what's going off. Something about Hondas not having a factory alarm (that makes noises) so dealers have to install an aftermarket one (to make the alarm noises). Can someone confirm this? Anyway the dealer wants $520 for a (new?) alternator and $600 for labor (3hr) which is lol. What should I do? My local shop only wants $160 for the labor but they don't have the part. I've read that I should get my (failed) factory alternator repaired because that's gonna be better than a rando rebuilt alternator? Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Aug 23, 2021 |
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Aug 23, 2021 22:37
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It's unlikely these issues are related. I'm confused as to how the dealer came up with needing an alternator. But yes, get rid of the failing/jankily installed aftermarket alarm first. Then someone can diagnose the rest.
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Aug 23, 2021 22:57
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Ok so I'm still confused what this aftermarket alarm does the factory ones doesn't? Is this just a stupid dealer upsell I don't even remember being offered it. It must have been installed before we even bought the car? e: called the dealer sales and verified its a thing they do to all their cars so it wasn't an option. Something about the factory anti theft system disables the car but doesn't alarm so this aftermarket thing does the alarm part. Not sure how accurate that is Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Aug 23, 2021 |
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Aug 23, 2021 23:02
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Shaocaholica posted:Ok so I'm still confused what this aftermarket alarm does the factory ones doesn't? Is this just a stupid dealer upsell I don't even remember being offered it. It must have been installed before we even bought the car? It's a stupid dealer upsell and they're lying. We have a 2013 Odyssey with a perfectly functional factory alarm that blows the horn and flashes the lights when activated.
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Aug 23, 2021 23:13
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Wow yeah whoever told you that is blatantly incompetent and speaking in confidence about something they're not familiar with, or lying through their teeth. I thought dealer upsells were a meme and weren't that insane, but it's not over-exaggerated and some of that stuff should just be plain illegal.
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Aug 23, 2021 23:26
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Found this. Sounds about what I have. https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2016/08/never-buy-car-alarm-dealership/
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Aug 23, 2021 23:40
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Shaocaholica posted:Found this. Sounds about what I have. Oh it gets even worse than that. Buy here pay here places install similar units with cell service and a GPS so they can locate the car and prevent it from being started. You want all of that poo poo out of there pronto.
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Aug 23, 2021 23:58
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DesperateDan posted:It's about equivalent to a gutentight what's a gutentight? is that like a metric gorilla? e.g. "crank it down to about four gorillas"
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Aug 24, 2021 05:36
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4 gorillas is "FT"
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Aug 24, 2021 05:47
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Anybody have strong opinions on good quality battery terminals (with a stud, not crimp)? I like the newer wedge style with the vertical bolt, but it's weirdly hard to find them.
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Aug 24, 2021 10:52
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Motronic posted:4 gorillas is "FT" Five gorillas shears the stud...so, watch out.
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Aug 24, 2021 14:23
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DesperateDan posted:It's about equivalent to a gutentight This is how my friend taught me. The German method.
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Aug 24, 2021 15:25
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Sagebrush posted:what's a gutentight? is that like a metric gorilla? IMO gutentight is for things where you're using finger/wrist operated tools where gorillas are for lever-style tools you can really crank on.
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Aug 24, 2021 17:17
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I'm planning on replacing my warm weather tires for my 2016 MB C350e when I rotate on my winter set in a few months time - the car is currently wearing Continental run-flat all-seasons and they're fine... but I have two questions: 1). I'm thinking of getting a temporary spare/donut & tools to keep in the trunk (so I can skip the run-flats and just use regular tires). I found this kit and it seems to fit the bill but man, it's gonna be like $500 once taxes & shipping are factored in. Anyone got any better options for this (like maybe getting a 17" steelie & generic all-season that fits or something like that). I tried looking for a used kit via car-part.com but of course, everybody else's W205 C-Class is on run-flats too... 2). I have a dedicated set of winter tires - so I feel like I should look for summers rather than like, a high performance all-season... though I live in Wisconsin, so there are good chunks of the year (late fall/early Spring) where the temperature is nice enough during the days but still loving cold overnight, and I don't want to be driving something too sketchy. Thoughts? sarcastx fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Aug 24, 2021 |
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Aug 24, 2021 19:58
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I've been running all seasons in IL because of the temperature drops. I haven't tried summer only tires, so I don't know how bad they'd actually be on a 20°F morning.
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Aug 24, 2021 20:16
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VelociBacon posted:2007 GTI, 6spd manual with factory LSD. Just wanted to follow this up for anyone curious. Parked the car today with the wheel to one side and yeah it's a CV joint.   
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Aug 24, 2021 20:26
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VelociBacon posted:Just wanted to follow this up for anyone curious. Parked the car today with the wheel to one side and yeah it's a CV joint. Classic! Had the same looking damage with my car but it wasn't making symptoms, I was having it looked at for other stuff and there was a bunch of CV grease everywhere. Sorry man.
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Aug 24, 2021 20:43
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What exactly is the scam behind all the 'we've been trying to reach you about your car's extended warranty' calls? If one were gullible and stupid, how would these people make money off you? What is it they're actually selling?
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Aug 24, 2021 20:52
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Imagined posted:What is it they're actually selling? Literally extended warranties and/or service plans. The lovely recording is just the worm, if you nibble then your call forwards to a call center where they try to hook you. I have a friend who paid $4,000 for an extended warranty for a 2011 CAMRY (in 2014). I told him if he didn't find a way to cancel that I'd never speak to him again.
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Aug 24, 2021 20:55
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Extended warranties.
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Aug 24, 2021 20:56
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I should also mention that they're not necessarily a "scam" like a Nigerian Prince email (at least - not any more than any other 3rd-party extended warranty is) - the reason they're so reviled is the breaking of telemarketing laws.
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Aug 24, 2021 21:00
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Anyone recognize this brand of wheels (if its even a real brand)?  e: Nm I just saw the sticker on the window bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Aug 24, 2021 |
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Aug 24, 2021 21:13
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sarcastx posted:I'm planning on replacing my warm weather tires for my 2016 MB C350e when I rotate on my winter set in a few months time - the car is currently wearing Continental run-flat all-seasons and they're fine... but I have two questions: You don't need a donut if you get AAA. (Assuming that service is OK). Summers should be just fine in conjunction with winters in Wisconsin. You might have a day or two but if you just don't push it you'll be fine.
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Aug 24, 2021 21:15
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sarcastx posted:(like maybe getting a 17" steelie & generic all-season that fits or something like that). This is what I've been doing instead of dealing with donut spares for a decade now. Difference between a 50 mile limp to get a new tire, and having plenty of time to replace the flat because you still have four non bullshit tires E: AAA has sucked for flats in my experience; all they do is send a tow truck driver to install your spare with your jack and tools. The one time I bothered, the truck didn't even have a compressor to air the tire up. A decent jack + a drill and socket to do most of the lug nut work is a better $ investment than AAA *for flats specifically* but the free tows are amazing too Javid fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Aug 24, 2021 |
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Aug 24, 2021 22:37
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