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Anybody know of a good practical photographic comparison of the fine print resolution between 50/47 -micron pixel standard-res printers and 35 micron ‘4k’ printers? and/or between older color screens and mono screens? i’m running into the limits of what my Mars Pro can accurately represent for tooling/molds at very small scales and i wanna stoke the fiscally-imprudent “buy a sonic mini 4k” fires in my loins.
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Aug 22, 2021 17:47
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Rexxed posted:I'd wait for more goons to answer since I don't use this, but I believe you want spring steel with a PEI coating, and you'll need the magnetic base on your bed to make it adhere unless your printer already has one (it probably doesn't). The Ender 3 is 235mm. Those options are for sale on that page but down at the bottom for $26.99. Basically there's an adhesive magnet sheet that you put on the bed, then you put the spring steel on top of it and the magnet holds it in place. Get PEI coated because that adds the sticking when its hot and releasing when it's cool feature, otherwise I don't know what you'd need to do to print onto spring steel. You don't actually need the magnet, it just makes things easier. You can totally just clip the spring steel plate to your printer, it just means that you have to do more work to remove the plate to flex things off.
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Aug 22, 2021 18:38
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Okay, if I wanted a spring steel bed for the Ender, what would I need aside from this? Is the spring steel the print surface or do you still need a PEI thing for that? You've got a magnetic base on your Ender 3 Pro already, but it's cracking. You can (should?) replace that. That's the "magnetic bottom" in the listing you linked. Spring steel can have different coatings/surfaces on it. PEI is one of them. On the listing you linked, here's the item with a magnetic base and a steel sheet with PEI. I can't vouch for the quality of that product - though I suspect it's fine - but it will fit on your Ender 3 Pro. You'll need to remove the old magnetic base that's currently on there, clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol to remove sticky remnants, apply the new magnetic base, take the protective film off of the PEI sheet if there is one, slap it on the magnet, and level your bed. Then you should be good to go.
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Aug 22, 2021 18:47
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Anybody know of a good practical photographic comparison of the fine print resolution between 50/47 -micron pixel standard-res printers and 35 micron ‘4k’ printers? and/or between older color screens and mono screens? i’m running into the limits of what my Mars Pro can accurately represent for tooling/molds at very small scales and i wanna stoke the fiscally-imprudent “buy a sonic mini 4k” fires in my loins. There’s a YouTube video linked in the thread second post about choosing a printer that compares 2K and 4K print results which might help you. edit: I genuinely considered when I made that post writing something like “the differences may not be visible to the human eye but thread poster Ambrose Burnside might care about it for incredibly small tooling” 
csammis fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Aug 22, 2021 |
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Aug 22, 2021 19:17
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becoming posted:You've got a magnetic base on your Ender 3 Pro already, but it's cracking. You can (should?) replace that. That's the "magnetic bottom" in the listing you linked. Thanks. I think I phrased it wrong. The rigid bed isn't cracking, the magnetic layer on the bottom of the flexible print surface is cracking. Would I still need the magnetic base or does the spring steel stick to the rigid magnetic part of the bed? I don't know what the terms are for the different parts of the bed and I think this is hindering my ability to communicate the issue. Actually it looks like if I want the PEI it only comes with the magnetic bottom as well.
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Aug 22, 2021 19:39
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Thanks. I think I phrased it wrong. The rigid bed isn't cracking, the magnetic layer on the bottom of the flexible print surface is cracking. Would I still need the magnetic base or does the spring steel stick to the rigid magnetic part of the bed? I don't know what the terms are for the different parts of the bed and I think this is hindering my ability to communicate the issue. Actually it looks like if I want the PEI it only comes with the magnetic bottom as well. The spring steel will stick to the magnetic layer already on your bed.
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Aug 22, 2021 19:45
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Okay, good. In that case, would this be all I need? If the price difference is only a couple of bucks I might as well go with the name brand. https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezflex2-flex-plate-smooth-or-textured-pei-coating/
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Aug 22, 2021 23:01
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csammis posted:edit: I genuinely considered when I made that post writing something like “the differences may not be visible to the human eye but thread poster Ambrose Burnside might care about it for incredibly small tooling” yeah i can’t imagine getting much from the 4k upgrade for tabletop miniatures or whatever, but for molded part details like embossed lettering (which requires deep, sharp-cornered pockets in the tool), i actually can’t go nearly as small as i’d like to before everything starts bleeding together and getting mushy. i have never heard of a color screen Elegoo printer getting upgraded to mono by the end user, else id just start with that.
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Aug 22, 2021 23:27
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Ambrose Burnside posted:yeah i can’t imagine getting much from the 4k upgrade for tabletop miniatures or whatever, but for molded part details like embossed lettering (which requires deep, sharp-cornered pockets in the tool), i actually can’t go nearly as small as i’d like to before everything starts bleeding together and getting mushy. i have never heard of a color screen Elegoo printer getting upgraded to mono by the end user, else id just start with that. This upgrade exists, but drops it from a 2k screen. To a 1080p screen so probably not what you're looking for
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Aug 22, 2021 23:44
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on that note, 2/4k isnt actually an informative statistic, absent more information, right? it’s more a marketing thing? like i see “4k” get applied to both genuinely higher-resolution printers, as well as those with standard resolutions but a larger print area, and the raw pixel count is the same in both cases.
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Aug 22, 2021 23:59
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Okay, good. In that case, would this be all I need? If the price difference is only a couple of bucks I might as well go with the name brand. Yep, that will work. 235x235, and you'll pay shipping so it's a few bucks more than a few bucks more.
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Aug 23, 2021 00:22
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Ambrose Burnside posted:on that note, 2/4k isnt actually an informative statistic, absent more information, right? it’s more a marketing thing? like i see “4k” get applied to both genuinely higher-resolution printers, as well as those with standard resolutions but a larger print area, and the raw pixel count is the same in both cases. Yes. The objective measurement you're looking for is pixel pitch, and the manufacturers usually do specify that somewhere. But saying "31-micron pixel pitch," which would let you directly compare one machine to another, is apparently not as marketing-friendly as "4k!!"
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Aug 23, 2021 00:31
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Ambrose, you might want to keep an eye on Anycubic's upcoming DLP machine. A friend of mine in the UK received a pre-release unit for review and it's pretty drat impressive. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eAf0mpF9Nww
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Aug 23, 2021 11:22
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Just ran across this on Facebook - "For anyone interested, artnaturals.com has a 75% off their sanitizing stuff including 99% IPA. Use code SAFE40 at checkout." I just ordered four 4-liter packs of the 99% iso, only came to $26.98 even after paying the six bucks for shipping.
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Aug 23, 2021 12:15
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The Ender's aluminum plate is only a few millimeters thick and not at all flat. Does a spring steel plate have enough of it own rigidity to avoid confirming to the bed's own weeble wobble? The BlTouch and bed mesh helps but its still preferable to be as flat as possible which the glass does help with a bunch.
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Aug 23, 2021 12:29
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Acid Reflux posted:Just ran across this on Facebook - Thanks for the heads up. I needed to get some more and that's way cheaper than anything I could find elsewhere.
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Aug 23, 2021 12:37
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Sauer posted:The Ender's aluminum plate is only a few millimeters thick and not at all flat. Does a spring steel plate have enough of it own rigidity to avoid confirming to the bed's own weeble wobble? I have a cr10s with a .8mm bow in the center. Got a spring steel plate, now it’s a .7mm bow.
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Aug 23, 2021 14:02
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Acid Reflux posted:Ambrose, you might want to keep an eye on Anycubic's upcoming DLP machine. A friend of mine in the UK received a pre-release unit for review and it's pretty drat impressive. I am very interested in this as well. The prints look amazing, but I can’t figure out if it would really reduce layer lines and resolution or not. I mean, the thing still prints in layers, right?
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Aug 23, 2021 18:37
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Acid Reflux posted:Just ran across this on Facebook - this is where i've been getting my ipa
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Aug 23, 2021 18:42
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E3D must be trying to clear out their backstock, so they recently did a promotion for $30 you'd get a mystery box. Well I'm a sucker for a mystery box so I have now ended up with a brand new v6, an assortment of v6 nozzles, a volcano heater block, and a few volcano nozzles. Anyone with a MK3S done a volcano conversion? Ever since I got my resin printer I have been exclusively printing larger parts on my filament printer, so a volcano with a 1mm nozzle will be a huge speed gain for me.
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Aug 23, 2021 19:57
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Acid Reflux posted:Just ran across this on Facebook - Wow, that is a crazy good price. I've been using that brand of IPA in the 1L bottles for a couple months now and it's really convenient.
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Aug 23, 2021 20:21
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I think I just ordered 2gal of 99% IPA there with that coupon for $15.17?
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Aug 24, 2021 00:12
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Anyone know of a neon red resin? I've found a blue one that's kinda light, and a green one that's damned near fluorescent, but not much in the red variety.
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Aug 24, 2021 23:56
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Just got into the hobby as I am really into making diorama kinda things and man this is a game changer. Finished building a Prusa mk3 and got an anycubic photon mono as well and have started working on a diorama based on the Google earth pictures of Shackleton's hut. Impressed what the mono can put out without much skill on my part but even the prusa is doing great - the boot here was done on the prusa and is perfectly adequate detail for a non-central part.  
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Aug 25, 2021 07:56
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That's cool as hell and I would love to see the finished diorama when you get there! Also any other cool dioramas you have made. The boot looks really good and I think speaks to the quality that can be achieved even with an FDM machine with (I'm assuming) a reasonable amount of finishing and a nice paint job.
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Aug 25, 2021 08:03
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I have a really hard time photographing dioramas for some reason but here's a few I made, a super tiny one based on Edward Hopper's Western Motel painting, a dollhouse built from a kitset, and the biggest one to date, the Nautilus from 20,000 leagues with fully modeled interior (which sadly can't be seen in the pic)  
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Aug 25, 2021 08:42
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Kerro posted:Just got into the hobby as I am really into making diorama kinda things and man this is a game changer. Finished building a Prusa mk3 and got an anycubic photon mono as well and have started working on a diorama based on the Google earth pictures of Shackleton's hut. Impressed what the mono can put out without much skill on my part but even the prusa is doing great - the boot here was done on the prusa and is perfectly adequate detail for a non-central part.  Wait. Which ones are resin and which are FDM? That boot is FDM?? What nozzle and layer height are you using??
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Aug 25, 2021 13:41
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Pretty sure that's just your basic "ultra detail" profile in Prusa Slicer plus some time spent painting the boot after it printed.
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Aug 25, 2021 13:57
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Ender 3 v2 talk - I bought this because my Prusa was no drama; the Ender has delivered! I finally have it printing well and reliably, but I came across an issue that isn't mentioned a whole lot and I wanted to call it out here for others that may experience the same thing. I was having a hell of a time getting the bed leveling right and in going through the entire process meticulously, I discovered that my Z-limit switch was defective: about 10-20% of the time, it would trigger early, before/without physically clicking. If this were all of the time, it would at least be consistent; but it wasn't, and it was leading me to believe that my bed was going out of level. Here's another example of how this can go very wrong (and did): - level bed on a Z-home where it triggers early - test squares print fine because Z-home triggers early again - start bigger print and Z-home triggers at full depth, so the nozzle drags on the print surface, scraping up the brand-new PEI sheet and clogging the nozzle This issue isn't unheard of, but it seems it's not prevalent enough to make it into "watch out for this" lists. How you can test - Set Z to 15mm, home it, repeat 10-20 times; if it ever triggers without audibly clicking, your printer is probably affected. What you can do - Replacement switches are reasonably inexpensive, but in the meantime, I swapped my X-limit and Z-limit switches. Peel off the QR code sticker, pull those four screws (carefully, they secure the stepper too), and swap the switches. The X-home is less important since the switch malfunctioning here just means your print winds up about 0.1mm to the right of where you'd plotted it (only matters on prints that are using the entire width of the build surface); the Z-home is critical to all prints. I'm glad I bought this hunk of poo poo, I have learned a lot and it's suuuuuuuper nice to have two printers going simultaneously, but I personally would have a hard time recommending it to anyone that didn't want to tinker and troubleshoot. I've had a blast but I can see how this would be frustrating to many (most?) people.
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Aug 25, 2021 19:58
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Pretty sure that's just your basic "ultra detail" profile in Prusa Slicer plus some time spent painting the boot after it printed. Not even that, just the 0.10 detail setting with the standard 0.4 nozzle. Was surprised how decent it was though the layer lines are still visible, but won't be a problem at the distance it will be seen in the scene. Kerro fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Aug 25, 2021 |
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Aug 25, 2021 20:38
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i got asked if i would make some anime knives so i made some anime knives
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Aug 25, 2021 21:44
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Textured PEI steel sheet -- is there something I should be doing every few weeks or months to 'refresh' it a bit? I typically wipe with alcohol between prints, give it a good hot and soapy every week or so, but it's starting to lose its adhesion. I'm thinking about lightly abrading it with the 'soft ' scotch brite in case there is a build up of filament by-products baked on. Thoughts? Do they just get knackered over time? It is about 8 months of pretty regular use
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Aug 25, 2021 22:13
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simmyb posted:Textured PEI steel sheet -- is there something I should be doing every few weeks or months to 'refresh' it a bit? This is what Prusa says. I haven’t had to yet, so who knows if it works. Prints don’t stick If your print surface is perfectly clean and all grease has been removed by wiping it with a paper towel soaked in isopropyl alcohol ~90%. Also, make sure the first layer height is set up perfectly. If your prints still do not adhere reliably to the print surface, try to wash the sheet in warm water with a few drops of liquid dish soap (not hand soap). This can clean away oils/sugars that are not affected by rubbing alcohol. However, the textured sheet is not water-proof so consider this a last resort which should not be done often.
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Aug 25, 2021 22:37
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RE: Warped bed vs spring steel plate on a CR10 I took off my bed to replace the rollers on the Y axis, and while it was off I 1) Insulated the bed with stick on aluminum backed foam 2) Greased all the screw heads, adjuster nut bases, and die spring ends with some copper high temp brake grease. This is so that the parts can slide as the bed heats. Well, between taking the bed off and those other two things, my build plate is now only .4mm low in the center vs .8mm when heated to 65C
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Aug 26, 2021 00:00
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I had planned on waiting until this winter but I couldn't help myself and bought an Ender 3 v2 that arrived earlier today. Set aside a big chunk of time this evening and put it together. Everything went well except for one very big asterisk: the X axis is out of level by a significant amount (just over a quarter inch) and I can't figure out what is wrong or how to fix it. Brand new to this so pardon me if I mix up any terminology, but as of when I finally gave up: - the Z-axes are parallel and square with the base of the machine as well as the top bar - the X-axis extrusion is straight and I seem to have assembled that part correctly -- all screws accounted for, etc. - it seems like when I mount the X axis on the Z rails, the X axis is pulled out of alignment when the Z screw is threaded. The side with the X motor is pulled down a quarter inch before the screw is fully seated and before the far side's guide wheels are seated. The far side can't be pulled down prior to this to align it because the Z screw hasn't threaded yet (basically: everything is level when I align the X axis, but as soon as I seat and thread the Z screw it's pulled out of level). Aside from making extremely sure that the Z rails and base were totally square, the only other thing I thought to try was to adjust the concentric nuts on the guide wheels, but that didn't seem to have any real effect on the alignment of the X rail. Any ideas? For my own sanity I'm not looking at the thing until tomorrow but if it'd help I'll absolutely take pictures/video
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Aug 26, 2021 03:32
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Pentecoastal Elites posted:I had planned on waiting until this winter but I couldn't help myself and bought an Ender 3 v2 that arrived earlier today. Set aside a big chunk of time this evening and put it together. Everything went well except for one very big asterisk: the X axis is out of level by a significant amount (just over a quarter inch) and I can't figure out what is wrong or how to fix it. Can you remove the screw holding the z nut to the x carriage and turn the nut by hand on the leadscrew screw until it contacts the carriage? Then tighten the screws attaching the nut to the x carriage.
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Aug 26, 2021 03:49
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Pentecoastal Elites posted:I had planned on waiting until this winter but I couldn't help myself and bought an Ender 3 v2 that arrived earlier today. Set aside a big chunk of time this evening and put it together. Everything went well except for one very big asterisk: the X axis is out of level by a significant amount (just over a quarter inch) and I can't figure out what is wrong or how to fix it. It's not clear to me reading your post, so: did you use printed spacers/a jig/two equal-sized objects to square the gantry ("X-axis") to the rest of the frame before putting the Z-screw in? If not, that is what you need to do. Here is the spot in Shop of 3D Printed Horror's assembly video that you should reference/follow. That whole video is worthwhile, even if you've already assembled, just to sanity check your work. Edit - fixed a typo. becoming fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Aug 26, 2021 |
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Aug 26, 2021 03:58
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thank you both -- I removed my Z screw and loosened the wheel plate connections to the gantry, and there was enough play there to let me get everything dead nuts level and reinstall the Z screw. Seems like such an obvious fix in hindsight, but I guess the right answers usually are! Updating the firmware now. Hopefully I'll have a lovely benchy to troubleshoot before too long
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Aug 26, 2021 16:03
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Been looking at FDM printers, and microcenter has the Ender 3 Pro on sale for $100 after coupon. Unfortunately my local store is sold out and I'd have to drive an hour + tolls to the Brooklyn store. Usually I see people recommend the v2, is the pro still worth it?
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Aug 26, 2021 17:09
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Pentecoastal Elites posted:Hopefully I'll have a lovely benchy to troubleshoot before too long 
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Aug 26, 2021 18:05
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