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Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
Some lovely galleries on Imgur right now of the Canadian War Museum.

Airplanes
https://imgur.com/gallery/Xxc6Qsd

Vehicles
https://imgur.com/gallery/hBTgDq9

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RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Best 1:35 scale kit :3:
https://twitter.com/hasegawa_model/status/1430319148270194693?s=19

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Some lovely galleries on Imgur right now of the Canadian War Museum.

Airplanes
https://imgur.com/gallery/Xxc6Qsd

Vehicles
https://imgur.com/gallery/hBTgDq9

That damaged StuG is really interesting. It gives you a really good idea of the properties and thickness of the different sections, like the fender that's just curled straight up (I'm assuming from heat?) without the brackets to keep it in place, while the side walls have snapped and cracked.

Fearless
Sep 3, 2003

DRINK MORE MOXIE


A good friend of mine was the driver of that Leopard C2 MEXAS in Afghanistan. During one operation it got bogged down and stuck and endured several hours of Taliban assaults before an ARV was able to get in and pull them out.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
TIL Canada was buying and using M1917s in 1940, even if it was just for training.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
The M1917s were a great addition to Canada's might armoured force of a dozen Vickers Light Tanks Mk.VIB, a single Whippet, and a Carden-Loyd tankette.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Canada is still using Browning Hi-Power 9mm pistols it bought in the '40s as a side-arm

There has been some half-hearted attempts at replacing them, but Canada.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

Ensign Expendable posted:

The M1917s were a great addition to Canada's might armoured force of a dozen Vickers Light Tanks Mk.VIB, a single Whippet, and a Carden-Loyd tankette.
Solid increase in firepower at least :psyduck:

Immolat1on
Sep 9, 2005
Is there a convenient way to strip chrome coated pieces? I have some wheel rims that'd like to not have any chrome coating on them, but scraping it all off isn't viable. Wondering if there's a way to strip it off or if I should just paint over it as best I can.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
Purple degreaser stuff. Super Clean, Purple Power, etc. It's all the same stuff as far as I know and I use it to strip chrome all the time. Some is more stubborn than others, but it gets the job done and doesn't seem to affect the plastic at all.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I’ve used liquid bleach before and it works pretty well and quickly to get rid of the chrome plating off things.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
Seconding purple degreaser for stripping chrome. In most cases it completely dissolves it in about 15 mins.

Edit: oven cleaner works really well too but I think it might be more harsh on the plastic.

Immolat1on
Sep 9, 2005
I was able to get the chrome stripped no problem and it made painting a breeze. Now onto my next question (I'm trying a lot of new things this build, can you tell?). I'd like to add some texture to some wheel wells with grass/mud/rust. I've already painted the rust on where I need it and just want it complemented by a rough texture/additional dirt color.

This seems to be the best fit: https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Gras...s-crafts&sr=1-2

Just curious if anyone has strong recommendations for something that might look better/be easier to work with. Again, I'm just looking to add some weathering/texture/additional color to the wheel wells of a car.

Thanks for teaching this noob y'all!

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Immolat1on posted:

I was able to get the chrome stripped no problem and it made painting a breeze. Now onto my next question (I'm trying a lot of new things this build, can you tell?). I'd like to add some texture to some wheel wells with grass/mud/rust. I've already painted the rust on where I need it and just want it complemented by a rough texture/additional dirt color.

This seems to be the best fit: https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Gras...s-crafts&sr=1-2

Just curious if anyone has strong recommendations for something that might look better/be easier to work with. Again, I'm just looking to add some weathering/texture/additional color to the wheel wells of a car.

Thanks for teaching this noob y'all!

I guess it depends how much dirt you want? That looks like a fairly heavy paste.

For easy and simple, the Tamiya 'mud' weathering stick is a lot of fun.
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-30008...s%2C323&sr=8-16

Immolat1on
Sep 9, 2005
This model in particular is an offroad vehicle (lovely Ford Ranger Revell kit I got for cheap, and am using as a testing ground) so I do want a nice and thick layer of texture. But I definitely want to try adding some dirt to future racecars which would require a much finer touch that it looks like the Tamiya weathering stick would be better for. Guess I'll have to buy both, shame!

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
Instead of the pen I'd recommend the Tamiya weathering master kits. They're like little makeup kits with three weathering powders. You can apply them with a brush to get a very subtle effect (like dust on your race car) or you can use a heavier sponge to get a heavier effect.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty is good for adding texture, is fairly cheap, and a tube will last you a long time. I'd recommend using disposable brushes.

Immolat1on
Sep 9, 2005

SkunkDuster posted:

Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty is good for adding texture, is fairly cheap, and a tube will last you a long time. I'd recommend using disposable brushes.

Is this what people also typically use for filling in cracks between body panels? I should have some of that as well.

I did opt for the kit over the weathering stick, I think you're right that for more subtle dust/dirt effects on racecars it will work much better.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Immolat1on posted:

Is this what people also typically use for filling in cracks between body panels? I should have some of that as well.

I did opt for the kit over the weathering stick, I think you're right that for more subtle dust/dirt effects on racecars it will work much better.

I think most people use Tamiya white putty and/or Mr. Surfacer 500 (in the bottle). I have used Bondo and it works well enough. The dark red color makes it easy to see where the putty is and how well the edges are feathered after sanding. One downside is that it is solvent based, so you'll need lacquer thinner for cleanup.

Smoke
Mar 12, 2005

I am NOT a red Bumblebee for god's sake!

Gun Saliva
I built me a Viper.






Revell 1:32 Colonial Viper Mk II. Not a bad kit, tends to be a bit gappy at points. Also like 50 decals just for the cockpit and the wing stripe. The latter can be painted but requires mixing as Revell doesn't have the actual color and they don't list any alternatives.

MyronMulch
Nov 12, 2006

Smoke posted:

I built me a Viper.

Cool stuff. What did you do better this time than the previous model? What have you figured out to do better on the next model?

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


If those are the same decals as the Mobius one, they're fuckin' TRASH rear end TRASH.


Ninja edit: Here's mine; I didn't build up the white as much as I'd have liked, but I really dig it.





EdsTeioh fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Sep 3, 2021

Smoke
Mar 12, 2005

I am NOT a red Bumblebee for god's sake!

Gun Saliva

MyronMulch posted:

Cool stuff. What did you do better this time than the previous model? What have you figured out to do better on the next model?

This one involved a lot more dry fitting than I normally do, some bits are a bit awkward. It did mean I found out certain bits had to be painted before further assembly as the instructions weren't always clear on that. There's also a few part numbers embossed onto the actual parts in plain view which is nice for cleanup.

I also switched from enamels to acrylics shortly before starting this build so that was kind of a new experience as well. I'm gonna get started on a slightly bigger aircraft though (Revell 1:144 Tu-144) so we'll see how that goes.

EdsTeioh posted:

If those are the same decals as the Mobius one, they're fuckin' TRASH rear end TRASH.

The decal sheet's almost exactly the same (One decal for the main cockpit screen has been split into two for the Revell version) but there's a few Revell copyright markings and I believe they may have been printed elsewhere. The stripes are rather thick though and they're a bit too big in spots so I had to carefully trim them a bit.

Vorenus
Jul 14, 2013
I started on the Shilka from Zvezda yesterday. Almost got through the first section before I put it back in favor of the T-72M1 from Tamiya. My first Zvezda kit and maybe I'm just spoiled by Tamiya kits but the quality and fit wasn't impressing me.

Not really a complaint but amusing: The instructions call for gluing the wheel assemblies in such a way as to leave the road wheels free to spin, yet the tracks are link-by-link cemented together.

Lizard Combatant
Sep 29, 2010

I have some notes.
Hello thread, newbie question but do Hobbyboss make good kits? I'm looking at some Soviet armoured train, but it's a little pricey so I thought I better check in with the experts first.

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

Lizard Combatant posted:

Hello thread, newbie question but do Hobbyboss make good kits? I'm looking at some Soviet armoured train, but it's a little pricey so I thought I better check in with the experts first.

Hobbyboss are part of Trumpeter, so most of the caveats that come with Trumpeter also go for Hobbyboss: shape can sometimes not be the most accurate, paint guides are often a complete guess at their end (so do your research and don't rely on what paints they suggest) and some of their kits are simplified versions of Trumpeter ones.

That said, they usually go together pretty well, surface detail is nice and crisp and the instructions are pretty easy to follow too. It's more or less a case-by-case thing but I've never been disappointed by a Hobbyboss kit I've built.

Their 'easy build' 1/72 aircraft kits are actually fantastic starter kits for folk new to the hobby, hands down better on every front than e.g. airfix starter kits, and I often grab one as a mojo build between big projects.

Lizard Combatant
Sep 29, 2010

I have some notes.

tidal wave emulator posted:

Hobbyboss are part of Trumpeter, so most of the caveats that come with Trumpeter also go for Hobbyboss: shape can sometimes not be the most accurate, paint guides are often a complete guess at their end (so do your research and don't rely on what paints they suggest) and some of their kits are simplified versions of Trumpeter ones.

That said, they usually go together pretty well, surface detail is nice and crisp and the instructions are pretty easy to follow too. It's more or less a case-by-case thing but I've never been disappointed by a Hobbyboss kit I've built.

Their 'easy build' 1/72 aircraft kits are actually fantastic starter kits for folk new to the hobby, hands down better on every front than e.g. airfix starter kits, and I often grab one as a mojo build between big projects.

Thanks! Appreciate it.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
Less thorough answer, but additional anecdotal data - I did a hobbyboss kit once. It was good. (M4 High Speed Tractor). Good level of detail, clear instructions. Pretty hard to gently caress up the paint instructions on that one, so can't speak to that aspect.

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

I'm very close to finishing up on the excellent FineMolds Type 61 now. I was a little down on it for a while because the original single color olive drab paint job (tools and all) isn't particularly exciting to paint, but now that it's got some details and the decals on it, it's starting to look pretty darn smart. I just have to finish up the road wheels and tracks then I can top coat and start the final steps.



I'm particularly glad I invested in some soft braided steel wire to replace the string included with the kit. It looks much better than the string I had on the Pz. IV I made.



I also need to poke out the excess paint on the exhaust grilles, but I'm gonna wait until my magnifying headset gets here. I'm also very proud of myself for only managing to screw up one decal, because there's absolutely no spares included with this kit of any kind.


I also started working on the next tank in the JGSDF lineage, which is the Type 74. It's a Tamiya kit originally made in 1979 (rereleased in 1993 as the "winter" version with some minor upgrade parts) but the detail is actually extremely good for its time. There's quite a lot of room for improvement though so I decided to make a project of it.




First was grab handles. Like the Type 61 before it, the Type 74 has way too many grab handles on the engine deck. On the kit as sold these are all simplified, and while I've never tried making my own grab handles before it seemed fairly simple. I started off with 0.3mm wire and bent the handles with tweezers which took a long time and was pretty funstrating. I wasn't entirely pleased with them and I almost left them like that but I bought a pair of jewelry pliers and wire bending became so incredibly effortless that I ripped them all out and replaced them with 0.5mm wire which looks much better to me.

Having had such a long service life though it's had numerous minor improvements so it was difficult to tell what was correct for a late production model, so I went down a rabbit hole of reference photos and also stumbled on the official Japanese MOD scale model club's homepage, which was a nice surprise and was really good for some insider details. For some reason quite a few of the color callouts on the Tamiya instructions are wrong. The instructions call for the tools to be painted in bare wood and metal but since their founding JGSDF tools and equipment have always been painted olive drab (though sometimes get painted over with camo on the tanks). The Tamiya kit is also missing the barrel shroud, which I put together out of some wire and styrene sheet, and the headlamp guard faces, again styrene sheet and wire, though don't tell the brainworms but the real ones are actually slats not bars. I also tried to fabricate the antenna guards and I managed to get something that looked fairly close until they fell apart.

I think that's as good as I'm going to get with my skill level and resources but I'm pretty proud of it. Demi-garage kit maker Asuka Models sells a version of the Type 74 G (a special variant meant to upgrade it be close to Type 90 equipment, only 4 ever built) based on the Tamiya kit but with some much higher detail parts so I may have to pick that up some day because I've kinda fallen in love with the Type 74. (Go check out some videos on Youtube, it has an air cooled 2-stroke V10 turbodiesel engine so it sounds super gnarly).



Here they are on the shelf along with the fatty fat Type 90 I bought so I could start something new and stop brainworming over the 74 with the backdrop of the beautiful watercolor from the Type 61's box art. (Also the FineMolds Type 73 light truck :3:)

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug

Lizard Combatant posted:

Hello thread, newbie question but do Hobbyboss make good kits? I'm looking at some Soviet armoured train, but it's a little pricey so I thought I better check in with the experts first.

Scalemates shows one review for their armoured train, but it seems quite favourable: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hobbyboss-85516-mbv-2--1021844

I also didn't know there were 1:35 scale armoured trains, maybe I'll have to pick one up someday.

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




Ensign Expendable posted:

Scalemates shows one review for their armoured train, but it seems quite favourable: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hobbyboss-85516-mbv-2--1021844

I also didn't know there were 1:35 scale armoured trains, maybe I'll have to pick one up someday.

Trumpeter makes a whole series of German armoured train kits, must be about 8 or 9 ranging from locomotives and command cars to flak cars and tank turret cars, and that doesn't include any of the railway artillery or vehicle transporters they also make.

NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Sep 5, 2021

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Oh, I've seen a few companies make German armoured trains. If it's German and WWII it'll sell.

Lizard Combatant
Sep 29, 2010

I have some notes.

Ensign Expendable posted:

Scalemates shows one review for their armoured train, but it seems quite favourable: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hobbyboss-85516-mbv-2--1021844

I also didn't know there were 1:35 scale armoured trains, maybe I'll have to pick one up someday.

Hey, that's the exact one! Cool, yeah review seems favourable.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Vorenus posted:

I started on the Shilka from Zvezda yesterday. Almost got through the first section before I put it back in favor of the T-72M1 from Tamiya. My first Zvezda kit and maybe I'm just spoiled by Tamiya kits but the quality and fit wasn't impressing me.

Not really a complaint but amusing: The instructions call for gluing the wheel assemblies in such a way as to leave the road wheels free to spin, yet the tracks are link-by-link cemented together.

The Zvezda KV-2 I built was fine, except for the Dragon level fuckups in the instructions. It tried to get me to put multiple parts together upside down or in an impossible order.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
I can't remember any big issues with the instructions. The only problem I had with their KVs was self inflicted when I failed to align the upper hull properly and had to trim the idler for it to fit.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Finished my first combination resin head/plastic body today. The difference in detail is phenomenal.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003
Your figure painting is really coming along well, EE. Very nice work there.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Smoke posted:



The decal sheet's almost exactly the same (One decal for the main cockpit screen has been split into two for the Revell version) but there's a few Revell copyright markings and I believe they may have been printed elsewhere. The stripes are rather thick though and they're a bit too big in spots so I had to carefully trim them a bit.

The stripes are so thick they're almost like vinyl stickers and less like actual waterslide decals. There was a guy in the thread years ago that ended up using his as stencils, which is a process that I can't totally get my head around, but I'd love to see it in practice.

Smoke
Mar 12, 2005

I am NOT a red Bumblebee for god's sake!

Gun Saliva

EdsTeioh posted:

The stripes are so thick they're almost like vinyl stickers and less like actual waterslide decals. There was a guy in the thread years ago that ended up using his as stencils, which is a process that I can't totally get my head around, but I'd love to see it in practice.

In that case the Revell decals are better because they're just about the thickness I'm used to from them,so not all that thick.

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Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

EdsTeioh posted:

The stripes are so thick they're almost like vinyl stickers and less like actual waterslide decals. There was a guy in the thread years ago that ended up using his as stencils, which is a process that I can't totally get my head around, but I'd love to see it in practice.
So did he spray the whole model the color of the decal, place the decals, paint, and then remove the decal?

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