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DildenAnders posted:Will do once it's light out again. Any tips on getting through the tire shop BS of "I'm not going to do an alignment until we replace X,Y, Z?" Ask for the keys and tell them you're not interested. Then go to another shop. If you get the same thing consider it might be valid advice.
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Aug 27, 2021 02:35
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DildenAnders posted:Will do once it's light out again. Any tips on getting through the tire shop BS of "I'm not going to do an alignment until we replace X,Y, Z?" That may or may not be BS. hosed alignment may not be correctable without parts. Unless you know what you are looking at/feeling and can get this in the air it can be anything from tire rods to bushings to bearings.
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Aug 27, 2021 02:36
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^^ What he said, and particularly tires, since you said it started pulling the other way when you changed the tires to the other sides. I've had shops refuse to do an alignment when my tires are too worn. So I took it back the next week when I switched to my winter tires and viola, they gave me an alignment.
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Aug 27, 2021 12:52
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Got my oldest daughter an old car, got a good deal on a 2000 Toyota Camry from a family friend. It all checked out mechanically from multiple folks perspectives but she pointed out something to me today that I've not seen on a car - at speed, say around 45+, if you turn the AC completely off there is a rushing wind noise by the drivers side. She thought it was the window but all the seals are fine and even the silly old air trim deals are firmly attached. I hopped in and took it for a spin and it's actually outside air coming in through the drivers side/left hand air return. If you've been running the AC it will push the remainder of cold out of it then eventually will just be ambient air whooshing out of the vent. I know less than nothing about AC in cars, any ideas where the leak would be? I can get a video if needed.
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Aug 28, 2021 13:03
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mischief posted:Got my oldest daughter an old car, got a good deal on a 2000 Toyota Camry from a family friend. It all checked out mechanically from multiple folks perspectives but she pointed out something to me today that I've not seen on a car - at speed, say around 45+, if you turn the AC completely off there is a rushing wind noise by the drivers side. She thought it was the window but all the seals are fine and even the silly old air trim deals are firmly attached. I hopped in and took it for a spin and it's actually outside air coming in through the drivers side/left hand air return. If you've been running the AC it will push the remainder of cold out of it then eventually will just be ambient air whooshing out of the vent. Press the recirculate button and try again.
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Aug 28, 2021 15:37
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mischief posted:Got my oldest daughter an old car, got a good deal on a 2000 Toyota Camry from a family friend. It all checked out mechanically from multiple folks perspectives but she pointed out something to me today that I've not seen on a car - at speed, say around 45+, if you turn the AC completely off there is a rushing wind noise by the drivers side. She thought it was the window but all the seals are fine and even the silly old air trim deals are firmly attached. I hopped in and took it for a spin and it's actually outside air coming in through the drivers side/left hand air return. If you've been running the AC it will push the remainder of cold out of it then eventually will just be ambient air whooshing out of the vent. Apparently with some googling it looks like air is supposed to come in to some extent as a safety precaution so people don't just pass out driving with their climate control turned off. Turning on AC may also turn on the air recirculation (within the car) button/feature which would shut whatever valve to only cool/circulate the air in the car. It does sound like it's 'extra' air coming in if it's whooshing as you describe, so maybe a seal somewhere is failed, I would see about looking under the area where your wipers are to see if anything is obviously up, I think that's generally where the air intake is on most cars (could be wrong!).
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Aug 28, 2021 15:37
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 This summer has been hot, and for some reason the tint on the passenger side window has warped. Now I need to know if I can just replace the tint, or do I need to replace the whole window? Any ideas? Kit Nubbles fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Aug 28, 2021 |
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Aug 28, 2021 18:07
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HagridOfTheLibrary posted:
If its a plastic film on the window, you can just remove and replace. Though its probably best left to a pro
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Aug 28, 2021 19:05
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About to change my (manual) transmission fluid. Aside from opening the "Fill" plug first and making sure it's warm when I change it, any other best practices to follow?
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Aug 28, 2021 19:17
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Remember to put the drain plug back in before you start refilling it. 
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Aug 28, 2021 19:19
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Do it as level as possible.
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Aug 28, 2021 21:02
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C-Bangin' it 
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:If its a plastic film on the window, you can just remove and replace. Though its probably best left to a pro Great! Got quoted for $75 for the whole job. Thanks for the advice!
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Aug 28, 2021 21:43
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HagridOfTheLibrary posted:
Do nothing, it looks kinda cool
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Aug 28, 2021 23:32
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I just got my license permit and I'm looking to build up experience behind the wheel. I'm looking at driving schools and some of these places make alarm bells ring in my head. I drove a bit in my dad's car and I quickly realized that it's going to take hours and hours of practice to learn how to drive or even be ready for the driving test. But some of these places say poo poo like "you'll know how to parallel park in 2 hours for $200!" I'm not interested in dropping 1000s of bucks to learn how to drive. Even for more reputable places I see rates of $70 an hour, 48 - 70 hours of practice to be able to do a driving test and that's $3360 - $4900 in total. Do you guys recommend doing driving schools to learn how to drive? I don't really want to beg a friend to ride their car and risk driving it over a curb or something stupid. E: I guess if that's the reality of learning how to drive I'll bite the bullet. America Inc. fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Aug 29, 2021 |
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Aug 29, 2021 02:49
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no hay camino posted:I just got my license permit and I'm looking to build up experience behind the wheel. I'm looking at driving schools and some of these places make alarm bells ring in my head. I drove a bit in my dad's car and I quickly realized that it's going to take hours and hours of practice to learn how to drive or even be ready for the driving test. But some of these places say poo poo like "you'll know how to parallel park in 2 hours for $200!" I'm not interested in dropping 1000s of bucks to learn how to drive. Even for more reputable places I see rates of $70 an hour, 48 - 70 hours of practice to be able to do a driving test and that's $3360 - $4900 in total. If you plan to ultimately buy a car at the end of it you could have a trusted friend help you pick it out and then learn in that, but yeah. Generally people avoid paying $5k for road time by getting their hours in on a family member’s/parent’s car.
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Aug 29, 2021 04:00
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no hay camino posted:I just got my license permit and I'm looking to build up experience behind the wheel. I'm looking at driving schools and some of these places make alarm bells ring in my head. I drove a bit in my dad's car and I quickly realized that it's going to take hours and hours of practice to learn how to drive or even be ready for the driving test. But some of these places say poo poo like "you'll know how to parallel park in 2 hours for $200!" I'm not interested in dropping 1000s of bucks to learn how to drive. Even for more reputable places I see rates of $70 an hour, 48 - 70 hours of practice to be able to do a driving test and that's $3360 - $4900 in total. I think context is important here so I'll say I'm 36, you start driving here at 16 with a graduated licensing thing that's pretty common in North America I think. I've done probably quite a lot of driver education and the short answer is that I think you're probably ~50% as likely to have an accident in your first 2 years of driving if you do the training, and it stays with you forever and it's a fantastic investment. So, I did a driver training program when I was 16 mostly because my parents were well off enough to put me through it and it accelerated the timing of the graduated licensing so I could get my next step sooner and be driving by myself. I think it was absolutely worthwhile, I was taught things that I'd never just happen to think about by myself, it included a few days of accident avoidance kinda training in a private area where I could see what happens if you just drive along and pull the ebrake, spin the car, brake or accelerate as hard as possible, that kind of thing. The classroom part of it was also really good and without it I think I absolutely would have gotten into some kind of accident. 90% of the value of the driver training programs has nothing to do with controlling your vehicle, and is instead about teaching awareness, how to drive predictably, how to predict other driver's behavior, etc. We'd drive for a bit and then park somewhere and the instructor would ask me what kind of risks might be present ahead (do those cars 'parked' on the side of the road have exhaust fumes coming out? Are their drivers looking into the road? Is this a place children might be playing?). The instructor I had (this is probably common) had his own mirror set up in the passenger seat that was directed at my eyes - he would do things like ask me what color car is behind us and I had to answer him without looking in the mirror myself, to demonstrate that I had been scanning around while driving. I still 100% of the time glace at my mirror when I brake, I think this must have been taught in this program. There's a lot of other stuff I still do subconsciously and absolutely I've been able to avoid accidents by noticing drivers merging without signaling, not seeing me braking in front of them, that kind of thing. I'm sure at times when I hosed up other people who took driver training have avoided accidents with me as well. Later on I 'got into cars' around age 21 and was doing track days, driver instruction, high performance driving instruction days, that kind of thing at local tracks and old airstrips. I also found this really helpful but I don't think it was very useful for the road. I then did motorcycle training which was even more about awareness and really built off the foundation you get with the car training. Even driving a car I think about the motorcycle stuff quite a lot in terms of lane positioning and anticipation of other drivers' behavior. After that I did training for my commercial drivers license which I needed to drive an ambulance, for anyone interested this was pretty much a big scam where you drive a large van around and the school I was in basically had an agreement with the testing agency and everybody passed. Most of the difference with the commercial license where I'm from is in the inspection of the vehicle and the various laws regarding the logbooks and all that stuff if you were getting that license to be a trucker/commercial driver. I really really think you should do the training but don't do one that is offering to exchange your money for a set of driving skills - look for something that will teach you how to be an aware and active driver. You'll learn all the mechanical stuff regardless so I think it's really important to focus on the safety aspect at this point and not the individual skills.
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Aug 29, 2021 04:03
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Wow, very helpful advice all around - it definitely makes sense to think of driving school as an investment to avoid more costly accidents later.
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Aug 29, 2021 07:14
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Learn how to drive stick too, IMO.
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Aug 29, 2021 08:57
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I agree with all of the above but I wanna point out that 48 to 70 hours of driving with an instructor beside you before the exam seems pretty nuts. You can learn to solo an airplane in under 20 hours of instruction. If you're starting from zero I'd say more like, idk, 10-15 hours with an instructor at first, depending on how quick you learn, and then you go and practice on your own for the rest. Maybe hire them again for 3 hours before the test to do some practice runs. E: how old are you? You said your dad's car? Most young people learning to drive take a short driver's ed course and then drive around with their parents to practice. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 09:13 on Aug 29, 2021 |
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Aug 29, 2021 09:09
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my best learning was done in an absolute beater of a toyota carina around an abandoned car park for the finer points an instructor was essential but it was really nice to be able to practice without being watched and to gently caress up without feeling judged or worried about the car
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Aug 29, 2021 09:23
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DesperateDan posted:my best learning was done in an absolute beater of a toyota carina around an abandoned car park Yeah, my drivers ed lady was this frigid old viciously mean lady and whenever you did anything she would just stare at you with this oddly judging but blank expression and then pencil notes on a big pilots clipboard. She never gave any context or explained what she was writing. It made learning much from her almost impossible. One thing that did stick, we always met/started at a fast food restaurant and she would put a cup of coffee on the dash. The goal while driving was not to spill her coffee, even braking. People still comment almost 30 years later how smooth I am driving and it's all because some old bitch scared the poo poo out of me with a twenty-five cent cup of coffee. Instruction is good but you can learn from trusted friends or family just as well. I got the Smith system beat into my head by my dad in a '92 Civic CX and learned more from him than any shred of driver's education. Getting out and getting comfortable enough to pay attention to what's going on outside the vehicle goes a long way to learning how to drive safely and effectively.
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Aug 29, 2021 14:38
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Driver's ed, typically gets you a bit lower of an insurance rate. So while it might be a bigger upfront cost, it may save you over the first few years (assuming you don't gently caress up and get into an accident) particularly if you're a new driver looking to get a car right away.
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Aug 29, 2021 15:08
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Posted in the VW thread but been having weird sounds, noticed a creak when pushing and pulling the right rear wheel around with the car on the ground. Jacked the car up and heaved on the wheel a bit, it definitely shouldn't be moving this much (or at all in this axis) right? 07 GTI. https://imgur.com/a/tCe4BYy
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Aug 29, 2021 16:02
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VelociBacon posted:Posted in the VW thread but been having weird sounds, noticed a creak when pushing and pulling the right rear wheel around with the car on the ground. Jacked the car up and heaved on the wheel a bit, it definitely shouldn't be moving this much (or at all in this axis) right? 07 GTI. Seems excessive to me. I'm not familiar with the suspension setup on those, but I'd be looking at stuff like control arm bushings. If not maybe it's the bearing. Can you slide under while somebody else manipulates the wheel like that to see if the movement is internal or external to the wheel hub?
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Aug 29, 2021 19:50
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My wife's Tiguan's brake pedal is pulsating when braking and I know it's the feeling of rotors need to be replaced, but is there any at-home method to determine if it's the rears or fronts that need to be replaced? Visually the rears are in worse shape, but I'd rather be sure. Or is the conventional wisdom to just replace all 4 corners (+pads) at the same time?
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Aug 29, 2021 23:46
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mik posted:My wife's Tiguan's brake pedal is pulsating when braking and I know it's the feeling of rotors need to be replaced, but is there any at-home method to determine if it's the rears or fronts that need to be replaced? Visually the rears are in worse shape, but I'd rather be sure. Or is the conventional wisdom to just replace all 4 corners (+pads) at the same time? If the steering wheel shakes it's the front rotors basically. If they're in rough shape I'd just replace them all!
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Aug 29, 2021 23:54
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mik posted:My wife's Tiguan's brake pedal is pulsating when braking and I know it's the feeling of rotors need to be replaced, but is there any at-home method to determine if it's the rears or fronts that need to be replaced? Visually the rears are in worse shape, but I'd rather be sure. Or is the conventional wisdom to just replace all 4 corners (+pads) at the same time? Don't take this as any sort of advice, but don't the front brakes do far more work that rears? That would make me assume it's the fronts that are bad over the rears but then again I'd go ahead and switch out all four, brake hardware and pads, and flush the fluid of I were doing brakes.
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Aug 29, 2021 23:54
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KakerMix posted:Don't take this as any sort of advice, but don't the front brakes do far more work that rears? That would make me assume it's the fronts that are bad over the rears I remember my GTI wearing out the rears faster as they were smaller and had less material to wear despite doing less work.
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Aug 30, 2021 00:05
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Uthor posted:I remember my GTI wearing out the rears faster as they were smaller and had less material to wear despite doing less work. Some Mazda 3s seem to wear out the rear brakes quickly.
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Aug 30, 2021 00:09
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Can anyone recommend an OBD-II data logging tool? I have an intermittent code that I think is being caused by a bad O2 sensor, but by the time I can get my scan tool hooked up it's working again. I'm looking for something I can leave plugged in until it throws the code and turns on the CEL, then pull, dump the logs, and see what happened to the sensors before and up to the time that the code was thrown.
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Aug 30, 2021 01:17
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fatman1683 posted:Can anyone recommend an OBD-II data logging tool? I have an intermittent code that I think is being caused by a bad O2 sensor, but by the time I can get my scan tool hooked up it's working again. I'm looking for something I can leave plugged in until it throws the code and turns on the CEL, then pull, dump the logs, and see what happened to the sensors before and up to the time that the code was thrown. I'd use torque (with any BT adapter) and set up a graph of the MAF sensor, I did this and also had it display short and long term trims and current status for open/closed loop operation. I was able to catch anomalies in the MAF reading this way but it would also work for the o2 sensor. You should also graph both so you can see if the behavior is wildly different between them to figure out if a problem exists. It will not just bank data but you can start it, record, and stop recording when you finish driving and you can catch it eventually that way. Here's an example of what my screen looked like (just opened the app now it's not connected). http://imgur.com/a/nDpeXTl VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Aug 30, 2021 |
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Aug 30, 2021 01:28
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VelociBacon posted:I'd use torque (with any BT adapter) and set up a graph of the MAF sensor, I did this and also had it display short and long term trims and current status for open/closed loop operation. I was able to catch anomalies in the MAF reading this way but it would also work for the o2 sensor. You should also graph both so you can see if the behavior is wildly different between them to figure out if a problem exists. Yeah, the problem that I have with a setup like this is that it sometimes goes weeks without throwing the code, and setting this up every time I drive is kind of a hassle. I'd love to find something that logs data internally so I can just plug it in and leave it until the next time the light comes on. I did something similar with the OBDLink app that came with my scanner the first time it happened, but I wasn't able to find any anomalies in the O2 sensor readings.
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Aug 30, 2021 01:50
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Charles posted:Some Mazda 3s seem to wear out the rear brakes quickly. My old Protege seemed to wear out the rears faster too. mik posted:My wife's Tiguan's brake pedal is pulsating when braking and I know it's the feeling of rotors need to be replaced, but is there any at-home method to determine if it's the rears or fronts that need to be replaced? Visually the rears are in worse shape, but I'd rather be sure. Or is the conventional wisdom to just replace all 4 corners (+pads) at the same time? If its got a handbrake for the parking brake, you can pull that up, and if you can feel the handle pulsing similarly, its a good indicator that the rears are the culprit. But hey, if the rears are in crappy shape anyway, you might as well do pads and rotors there, and if that takes care of the problem then you're good. E: do the parking brake thing in a parking lot, or somewhere safe, not on the highway or some poo poo.
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Aug 30, 2021 02:25
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Uthor posted:I remember my GTI wearing out the rears faster as they were smaller and had less material to wear despite doing less work. Charles posted:Some Mazda 3s seem to wear out the rear brakes quickly. I wonder how much of that is the result of brake-based torque vectoring/traction control stuff
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Aug 30, 2021 02:41
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Is putting a car under a cover for the winter going to risk rusting it? Assume low humidity but lots of snow. I'm thinking about putting my SVX away for the winter.
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Aug 30, 2021 02:51
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:My old Protege seemed to wear out the rears faster too. If you have a drum in hat setup I don't see the parking brake method working
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Aug 30, 2021 05:33
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Charles posted:If you have a drum in hat setup I don't see the parking brake method working Was going to reply with this as soon as I saw that. Handbrake check only works if your parking brake is using your rear calipers which seems to be increasingly rare.
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Aug 30, 2021 05:37
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05 Toyota Matrix, base model (1ZZ-FE). Changed the oil, oh, probably 6 weeks ago. Uh... I finally got around to pouring the drain pan into my collection bin, and found this deliciousness at the bottom.  The car primarily sees very short trips (3 miles each way, twice a day, 5 days a week - there's a reason it only has 98k on it). It doesn't lose any coolant (never had to top it off, though I have changed it, using genuine Toyota red coolant) I'm assuming this funny tasting caramel is condensation that had settled out of the oil while it was in the pan? This was a brand new pan, never used for anything else, and it's been sitting on my garage floor since the oil change. If it is, I'm gonna have to make sure it sees highway speeds a bit more often. This was Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W30 with about 1 year/a bit under 6000 miles on it, for reference, and an OEM Toyota filter.
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Aug 30, 2021 05:45
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Condensation makes sense, drive it on the highway more often. You should also do this to clear out carbon buildup in the intake and stuff like that.
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Aug 30, 2021 07:41
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edit- seems like i got it sorted out.
funkybottoms fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Aug 30, 2021 |
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Aug 30, 2021 17:07
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