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Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.

Squiggle posted:

COFFEE GROUNDS. OF COURSE.

I was wondering what I should try for a...gritty-but-not-dust-or-sand look. Can I just white glue that down and paint over it, or should I have to prime it?

I use coffee grounds as a basing material, they're somewhat irregular and the result looks more natural than sand. I've got a jar of espresso grind that I use for fine dirt and sand, and a jar of coarse french press grind for rocks and such.

I read somewhere that you should brew the coffee first then let the grounds dry out instead of using fresh grounds so I did that, but I couldn't say if it makes a difference.


Espresso grinds (plus some flock)


Coarse grinds

Toebone fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Aug 27, 2021

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Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

Nebalebadingdong posted:

Also one of the benefits of blacklining a mini: it helps the color really stand out!

If I may ask, how do you do blacklining at this level? Do you just start with a dark primer and just not paint into the recesses, or do you go back with a dark wash after?

I'm procrastinating slowly painting my own 10mm army of high elves, and started with the Wraithbone GW primer and am sticking with whites and yellows, so I don't have a dark base to start from. I do like the looks of darklined armies, though, and was honestly considering trying an oil wash after varnishing just to see how it'd look. At the same time, I'm definitely open to suggestions, as I've never used oils on minis before and I don't want to gently caress up a good paint job with lovely oils.

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

here's some dudes i painted this week

Squiggle
Sep 29, 2002

I don't think she likes the special sauce, Rick.


Sabine Wren is done!



It took two harrowing hours all on its own, but I can't BELIEVE how the helmet turned out. I managed to hit the EXACTLY right consistency on the purple to make clear, smooth lines, which really makes the scarlet shapes pop. I ultimately chickened out of splotching up the orange part, though. The sharp delineation between the purple and orange makes the shapes easy to see, and the "canon" blotchy pattern when painted on the mini just winds up looking like I didn't paint the orange well.

Toebone posted:

(coffee info)
Oh wow, those results look really great and exactly what I'm hoping to achieve. Thanks for the advice!

Ignite Memories posted:

here's some dudes i painted this week

Hahaha oh my god I love these

Squiggle fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Aug 27, 2021

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

Ignite Memories posted:

here's some dudes i painted this week


what miniatures are these? love them.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

Aniodia posted:

If I may ask, how do you do blacklining at this level? Do you just start with a dark primer and just not paint into the recesses

this. black lines are strictly for separating colors, not just any recess. i wouldn't leave black lines in the folds of clothes or hair for example.

Aniodia posted:

I'm procrastinating slowly painting my own 10mm army of high elves, and started with the Wraithbone GW primer and am sticking with whites and yellows, so I don't have a dark base to start from. I do like the looks of darklined armies, though, and was honestly considering trying an oil wash after varnishing just to see how it'd look. At the same time, I'm definitely open to suggestions, as I've never used oils on minis before and I don't want to gently caress up a good paint job with lovely oils.

i dont know if you can get to a proper blacklining this way. i kinda doubt it. i know a wash won't achieve the effect (but it can still look good)

you might selectively black line by basecoating certain prominent parts of the mini in black maybe?

Nebalebadingdong fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Aug 27, 2021

MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler

punishedkissinger posted:

what miniatures are these? love them.

Dark Sword miniature turtle cleric is one of them. I think they are all from the same line

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

MasterBuilder posted:

Dark Sword miniature turtle cleric is one of them. I think they are all from the same line

oh my gosh i love this/cannot afford this hobby

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

I have over 40 of these anthro redwall-type dudes now. Most of them (including these 4) are dark sword, some of them are from humblewood, some of them are from northumbrian tin soldier, and a few were 3d printed from a source i cannot recall.

If in-person RPGs ever happen again in my life i'm going to have the dankest ones.

MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler
How's pewter modelling vs plastic?

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

Pretty much the same, with slightly longer glue-times.

Mixed models can be a real pain in the rear end, though, the demogorgon was metal on top and resin on the bottom. It took 3 separate dives off my shelf trying to get back to hell

Ignite Memories posted:

i painted a demogorgon


PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

Ignite Memories posted:

Mixed models can be a real pain in the rear end, though, the demogorgon was metal on top and resin on the bottom. It took 3 separate dives off my shelf trying to get back to hell

Woof, that's an awful combo. At least do it the other way so the weight's at the bottom.

Have you considered rebasing it? Perhaps using a big heavy rock?

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Finished up two more DW Intercessors today from the Dark Hands and Iron Snakes.

The struggle with my white balance in pictures continues but anyways, I tried a little bit of AK pigments and...I think I like them more than dry brushing on dust/weathering?





Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

PoptartsNinja posted:

Woof, that's an awful combo. At least do it the other way so the weight's at the bottom.

Have you considered rebasing it? Perhaps using a big heavy rock?

I really should. Thinking about ordering a pair of these - anyone ITT used sinkers to weigh down miniatures before?
https://www.amazon.com/Mudville-MDNRS3OZ-2-No-Roll-Sinker-3-Ounce/dp/B00QNHNXN0/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Mudville&qid=1630089675&sr=8-1

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

I weigh a lot of my bases down with pennies. They offer a good amount of weight for a low cost and help a ton with problematic models.



PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
With a topheavy pewter mini I'd think you'd need a counterweight roughly equal to the weight of the pewter.

For unstable plastic minis, I've been told (but haven't had an opportunity to test) that filling the bottom of the base with spackle / grout (and sanding it flat) is a good way to add extra weight for virtually no cost.

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

Oh, I tried pennies, Jerry. I TRIED THE PENNIES!!

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Chainclaw posted:

I weigh a lot of my bases down with pennies. They offer a good amount of weight for a low cost and help a ton with problematic models.

Look at Mr. Moneybags over here weighting his models down with cold hard cash!

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
I've use nickles or quarters in the past, but some of the new textured bases (like the GM necro/ZM ones) don't leave enough room. I've switched to lead shot and PVA glue for those

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

I only add weight to bases if the model is seriously unbalanced otherwise, and I mainly use the tabs I've cut off metal miniatures feet when putting them on bases without a slot. If all your models are plastic or resin, I have occasionally used pennies or washers. Or just used stones as part of my basing to add a little heft to the base.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

AndyElusive posted:

Look at Mr. Moneybags over here weighting his models down with cold hard cash!

I stopped at using the Forbidden Currency, though: The long lost Canadian penny.

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

Chainclaw posted:

I weigh a lot of my bases down with pennies. They offer a good amount of weight for a low cost and help a ton with problematic models.

American nickles fit perfectly under GW 25mm bases.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Time to stick Toonies under my bases in lieu of real weights

Squiggle
Sep 29, 2002

I don't think she likes the special sauce, Rick.


Do any of you legends have any advice on how to approach this skin tone?

I'd just wing it while trying to get in the ballpark and call it good, or practice on a spare head, but I'm out of spare faces and am now invested in how surprisingly accurate to the source I was able to get this Sabine painted and wanted to do the helmetless head the same justice.

This might be the first possible use I have for Vallejo's Bronze Fleshtone, which looks...pretty yellow for bronze, but I'm not sure which layer it should go in. I've got a pretty diverse brown and fleshy selection for not having too many paints yet... VGC's Tan as a good Bugman's Glow-alike and Cadian Fleshtone for explicitly flesh colors, but a pretty good range of VGC browns and fiveish Army Painter brown washes, from fleshtone to Strong.

MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler
Whatever you end up doing could you take pictures of the individual paint steps. I was looking at the bronze fleshtone but was really thrown off the hex color vs the in person color so I'm curious what it looks dried. Maybe this goonhammer article may help.

My default is a cool/pale base coat and bring warmth with multiple coats of reikland in a more controlled application.
This works for pale rear end northern boys but I suspect may not work for the more golden tone you are looking for.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Floppychop posted:

American nickles fit perfectly under GW 25mm bases.

I used to joke that a unit of Chaos Warriors costs $23.10: $22.50 for the 12 dudes and $0.60 for the nickels to keep them from falling over

This was in late 5th/early 6th, so the prices were a bit less ridiculous :v:

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Squiggle posted:

Do any of you legends have any advice on how to approach this skin tone?

I'd just wing it while trying to get in the ballpark and call it good, or practice on a spare head, but I'm out of spare faces and am now invested in how surprisingly accurate to the source I was able to get this Sabine painted and wanted to do the helmetless head the same justice.

This might be the first possible use I have for Vallejo's Bronze Fleshtone, which looks...pretty yellow for bronze, but I'm not sure which layer it should go in. I've got a pretty diverse brown and fleshy selection for not having too many paints yet... VGC's Tan as a good Bugman's Glow-alike and Cadian Fleshtone for explicitly flesh colors, but a pretty good range of VGC browns and fiveish Army Painter brown washes, from fleshtone to Strong.



This guide to olive skin from Mengel doesn't seem a million miles off

Squiggle
Sep 29, 2002

I don't think she likes the special sauce, Rick.


Winklebottom posted:

This guide to olive skin from Mengel doesn't seem a million miles off



Oh awesome, thank you yes - this is perfect and I have all of the paints or really close conversions. I think I can just darken the cadian fleshtone glazing with some strong tone to make it a biiit darker than the example.

MasterBuilder posted:

Whatever you end up doing could you take pictures of the individual paint steps. I was looking at the bronze fleshtone but was really thrown off the hex color vs the in person color so I'm curious what it looks dried. Maybe this goonhammer article may help.

I will! I can already say that it's pretty much the 1st step of that infographic Winklebottom posted, pre-mixed. It looks to be a pretty good base for exactly this, but definitely requires shades/washes to get any sort of actual skin-like look. And it looks a better on gray primer than it does on white. On the mini above, it's pretty much the color right at the top of the thigh.

Squiggle fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Aug 28, 2021

Skails
Feb 24, 2008

Born-In-Space
Painted Snazzgar Stinkmullett





BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Nice work! I particularly like your color palette

MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler
Can I ask how you did the white on the hat and cloak?

Skails
Feb 24, 2008

Born-In-Space

BULBASAUR posted:

Nice work! I particularly like your color palette

Thanks! Warm earth tones just felt right

MasterBuilder posted:

Can I ask how you did the white on the hat and cloak?

Sure, he’s primed with stynlrez ebon flesh- it’s brown.
the stem and gills of the mushroom on his head were basecoated with zandri dust, layered with ushabti bone, highlighted with screaming skull. Then it got a wash of thinned seraphim sepia. Finally the edges picked out with screaming skull mixed with scale 75 hyek yellow (a slightly yellowish off white)

The fur on the cloak is basecoated with Vallejo Game color stonewall grey. Then a fat highlight with Pallid Wych Flesh, and a fine highlight on the tips with Vallejo Game color dead white. Some watered down black is in the recesses and some fine lines drawn with black to give the fur a little texture

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Tiny robot crosspost.

PoptartsNinja posted:

Phoenix Hawk


Stinger

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

Update: I ordered a couple of those 2oz lead fishing weights and I had to resculpt the base a bit but the demogorgon stands solid as a statue now

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

PoptartsNinja posted:

Tiny robot crosspost.

Nice tiny robots!

Crossposting from the historicals thread. I've been sculpting all Summer so I've hardly managed to paint anything. Felt good to finish these 20 minis so that I can take them off my painting table finally.

Ok so usually I stay away from anything after WW2, but a bunch of clubmates are preparing a homebrew system for very small scale modern skirmish, which they'll play set in Syria around 2015-17ish. Since the main rules writer is not a big fan of painting, he asked me to paint up a set of I Can't Belive It's Not Russians from Empress miniatures. These are clearly not Russians, and you'd be especially safe to say that they are not the 431st Naval Reconnaissance Point or similar special forces that clearly were not operating inside Syria around that time. What a silly thing that would have been.

I did a completely lazy job on the camo by mainly just reusing the main colours I used for the Splittermüster on my Fallshirmjägers, as I thought it looked pretty close to the pictures I could find.


The whole force preparing to mess with ISIS, Kurds, Turks or whatever force happens to be allied against them this week.

First up are the grunts with the diverse sets of automatic rifles:







Some MGs and anti-vehicle weapons:





I mixed up some camo schemes to reflect that the not-Russians had a mix of uniform equipment and personally supplied stuff in Syria. Especially things like weapons and magazines were all over the place.







Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost
I have some paint consistency issues and hooked brushes, but I tried to have some fun with it and explore some things. I definitely dropped him after getting the basecoat down so I took the opportunity to play with some basing. Not quite there but I can start to hear the toxic jungle music when I look at it.





Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer
Hello thread, I painted some more Marvel doods recently. Warmachine never came together for me, but I'm pretty stoked about my Sam Captain America.








GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007




Other than the basing, and a bit more work on the fur, I think these are done. What'cha think?

TotalHell
Feb 22, 2005

Roman Reigns fights CM Punk in fantasy warld. Lotsa violins, so littl kids cant red it.


Fyrbrand posted:

Hello thread, I painted some more Marvel doods recently. Warmachine never came together for me, but I'm pretty stoked about my Sam Captain America.










Dang these look nice.

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Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



Finished 10 more zombies, making a unit of 20. Tried pushing the contrast a little more.

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