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 poo poo lighting and shows the shame of the destroyed cat tree, but finally finished that goddamn bag. WIP Kindle case 
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Aug 31, 2021 15:06
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Hot drat! You should be tremendously proud of that bag, it looks fantastic.
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Aug 31, 2021 17:03
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Trabant posted:Hot drat! You should be tremendously proud of that bag, it looks fantastic. Thank you! I'm happy with it, but its not my favorite. My wife wanted just black, with gold hardware. To me it's so boring. It was also my first foray into edge dye/paint, I'm not sure if it came out right but it looks decent and the roller tool from RML made it so drat easy along with the weird Italian paint. But again all I see is every single flaw, and I know every piece I hosed up lol She's happy, that's all that matters. I'm also now this far into that case and realizing I should have sewn the interior hold downs before glue up, but alas. Edit: wife took non potato photo   
iwentdoodie fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Aug 31, 2021 |
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Aug 31, 2021 18:10
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I genuinely think black + gold looks better than black + nickel would, for example. And like you said, if the customer is happy that's all that matters  Is this the roller you mentioned? https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/edge-paint-roller?variant=12411551939 I always wondered whether that's actually useful or a gimmick, so it's good to hear there's something to it. I'll see YouTube leatherworkers use an awl with good results, while my attempts were garbage 
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Sep 1, 2021 01:59
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Every once in awhile I'll do very precise edge painting with really thin dye. I've used that edge roller and I liked it. However I also like just a regular tiny little sponge on a stick, probably the same amount, sooooo. Whatever works!
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Sep 1, 2021 04:22
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I've run out of the thinnest leather I bought when I started this hobby (2 sqft of 2mm) and need some more, and some thinner. About to order a 2mm side and a 1mm goatskin and some dye rip my wallet. On that subject do goat and cow hide behave the same? Do they wetform and tool etc the same? And can people recommend where to start with tooling/carving, be it books or videos?
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Sep 1, 2021 09:10
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That bag looks honestly really great. Trabant posted:I genuinely think black + gold looks better than black + nickel would, for example. And like you said, if the customer is happy that's all that matters If you're dealing with thick enough leather it's not so bad IMO. Its 2 am on my night shift right now and I'm exhausted and can't remember the product but if you bevel or lightly sand your edges and use that tree gum stuff on the edge, you get a good surface that is primed for a fantastic burnish. You can also use sharpie on black edges which probably isn't much better than the paint.
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Sep 1, 2021 10:11
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Trabant posted:I genuinely think black + gold looks better than black + nickel would, for example. And like you said, if the customer is happy that's all that matters Yep, thats it. It doesn't give that nice rounded edge look, at least from my experience, but it looks better than anything else I could do to the edge. I have wrist issues that cause hand shaking, so awls and that are right out for doing edge paint sadly. Thanks for all the kind words, very much appreciated. The black/gold looks good, I just personally prefer contrast stitching and edge colors.
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Sep 1, 2021 14:09
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iwentdoodie posted:Yep, thats it. It doesn't give that nice rounded edge look, at least from my experience, but it looks better than anything else I could do to the edge. I have wrist issues that cause hand shaking, so awls and that are right out for doing edge paint sadly. Re: the shaking, you can get burnishing tools that mount to the end of a drill and you spin the tool and slowly advance it along the edge. The gum I was thinking of is gum tragacanth.
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Sep 1, 2021 19:16
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Thank you both!VelociBacon posted:The gum I was thinking of is gum tragacanth. I used that briefly before trying Tokonole -- a huge improvement, highly recommended.
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Sep 3, 2021 05:38
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Great bag! My long term goal with leatherwork is to to make a Birkin knockoff for my partner.
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Sep 4, 2021 02:16
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Jaxyon posted:Great bag! Thanks! Honestly those seem to go from easy as, to gently caress that, as far as design and work. Help I'm watching tooling videos and now thinking of trying nooooooo All cause I'm making some goddamn Halloween stuff...design is super simple and now I'm making it harder because I want to distress it (never even dyed a piece) and now thinking of tooling...
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Sep 5, 2021 14:53
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gently caress it. I'd say I will single handedly keep this thread going, but my right arm now feels like it did when I was 13 so no promises on any hands being available. 
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Sep 10, 2021 02:38
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  Almost done with the first one. I will keep this thread alive by drat self if I must
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Sep 18, 2021 12:48
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I'll give you a hand shortly, hoping to receive my first real sized leather order Monday, a 1mm veg tan goat hide and a 2mm veg tan side. I reached the end of the pair of 2 ft squares I overpaid for a couple of years ago and picked up 5 dyes and some glue as well, I've want to make a card wallet phone sleeve combo, a messenger bag, a couple of archery bracers, etc etc.
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Sep 18, 2021 13:19
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Y'all are great. Please keep this thread alive. At some point I intend to dip my toe into leatherwork and so I've been silently lurking here for ages.
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Sep 18, 2021 14:12
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Yeah please keep posting. I've been keeping my eye out for projects but I haven't needed to make anything recently and I'm strictly against myself making things like wallets/belts where a better version exists relatively affordably.
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Sep 18, 2021 14:21
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Another post of encouragement! I'm a few weeks from diving back in for a leatherwork project of my own for a secret santa thing, and I'll definitely post about it here.
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Sep 19, 2021 01:44
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VelociBacon posted:Yeah please keep posting. I've been keeping my eye out for projects but I haven't needed to make anything recently and I'm strictly against myself making things like wallets/belts where a better version exists relatively affordably. I got into this purely to make a belt and a wallet lol Just make stuff. It's fun. Who cares if you need it.   
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Sep 20, 2021 01:17
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VelociBacon posted:where a better version exists relatively affordably. I'd have zero hobbies following that!
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Sep 20, 2021 03:53
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Trabant posted:I'd have zero hobbies following that! Truth. Car stuff, electronic stuff, leather stuff...I'm sure I could buy same or similar for the same or not much more but its not the same. I found the bag design I want for my "forever" bag, and the leather I want to use will cost me about 250, plus hardware. Or I could buy a finished version for around 320. I'm planning on making it after the new year as a birthday gift to myself. Also going to build a similar one for my buddy, as I'm going to be his best man and the wedding is around my birthday.
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Sep 20, 2021 23:06
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My dyes, goatskin and my first full side came in, very excited. I dyed up some swatches for reference and I have questions. I got fieblings alcohol based dyes, what do people use to thin these? What do you prefer to paint them on with? I'm trying to understand my order of operations as I've never used dyes before, just oiled the finished project. Is it: Cut to size/shape, pierce for stitching, dye, stitch, edge finishing?
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Sep 21, 2021 06:03
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I don’t have much to add to the fine leatherwork you lot are doing - most of what I do is bolted or laced together for shooting kit - but I have just ordered some birch tar to muck around with waterproofing. From what I hear it’ll also make my whole flat smell of smoke which might be a plus.
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Sep 21, 2021 13:40
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cakesmith handyman posted:My dyes, goatskin and my first full side came in, very excited. I dyed up some swatches for reference and I have questions. Is it the Fiebings pro dye? If so, denatured alcohol. I used wool daubers, but tbh I dip dyed almost all my pieces. Much more even, and less finicky. I did it after I had sanded my edges and punched stitching holes. But my only experiences with it I wasn't fussed with edge finishing so not sure honestly.
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Sep 21, 2021 20:26
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Fieblings standard, not Pro. Googling says that'll still work. If you use wool daubers do they stay with the bottle of dye and get reused or do you treat them as disposable? When you dip the dye is diluted right? How do you store/dispense the dyes, do you have big sealed trays or pour it into trays then pour back into bottles? And finally does dip dying interfere with wet moulding? E.g. will you lose the shape you've given it at all?
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Sep 22, 2021 23:13
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cakesmith handyman posted:Fieblings standard, not Pro. Googling says that'll still work. If you use wool daubers do they stay with the bottle of dye and get reused or do you treat them as disposable? Disposable. They cake up. Depends on color. Black, I found I could dilute pretty heavy and still be black. Browns and others just depends on shade. I initially bought small bottles of dye, so I was putting them in disposable containers and then back into the bottle. Then I bought big bottles and now it sits in Mason jars. I have a few that are color mixes I liked, so I made larger batches. Pickle jars and such are perfect. Anything air tight. (Ask) me about dumping a quart of die into a jar only to find out there was a pinhole in the lid.... Wet moulding I have no idea, the only things I've ever wet moulded are lighter sheaths and those barely even got some neatsfoot.   Edit: that was the first thing I ever made lol iwentdoodie fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Sep 25, 2021 |
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Sep 25, 2021 01:54
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cakesmith handyman posted:Fieblings standard, not Pro. Googling says that'll still work. If you use wool daubers do they stay with the bottle of dye and get reused or do you treat them as disposable? A few notes here
Just some thoughts from me. None of my ideas are original, I learned everything from youtube so I didn't come up with this stuff.
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Sep 25, 2021 06:43
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Thank you for the replies. I thought I'd posted their this yesterday but found it in my drafts:quote:
So yeah it fucks up your wet moulding and wet moulding fucks up your dye so more experiments needed.
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Sep 25, 2021 08:09
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How long did you let it dry? Also, this is goat not cow correct? Done some searching and found people doing both ways so, who knows. I've dipped my projects because I need the flesh side to be the same color, and fuuuuuck if I'm waiting 2 days to dye 1 piece.  Juuuuuuuuuust enough.  Forbidden flesh donut
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Sep 25, 2021 18:33
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The wet moulding was 2 days dry when I dyed it. When the dye was dry I remoulded it and it was okay, lessons learned.   Not perfect and edges still to do but 1 bank card 1 loyalty card, literally all I ever carry in wallet terms. iwentdoodie posted:
Hat?
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Sep 25, 2021 19:57
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Made a sheath for my skiving(?) knife, cocked it up. Measured without taking into account the thickness of the knife and didn't allow enough for the edges, sliced the stitching immediately when I put it in. Also didn't think enough about the position and width of the flap with the stud. Remade it and used the edges of the failed go to thicken the edges up. Not happy with the uneven dye coverage, this was with pre-wetting the leather slightly then brushing dye on. Big pack of wool daubers ordered. The edges burnished up nicely though.   Also remade a flap/strap on my daughter's bag as the crappy leatherette it came with cracked almost immediately, nothing to see there but the chocolate dye I bought was a perfect match. Next I'm going to experiment with 3d printed bucks for wet moulding and order an edge beveler, thought I'd got one but either mistaken or lost it, and a diamond awl. Might also try quilting a small decorative panel in the Macintosh style.
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Sep 27, 2021 11:56
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cakesmith handyman posted:Made a sheath for my skiving(?) knife, cocked it up. Measured without taking into account the thickness of the knife and didn't allow enough for the edges, sliced the stitching immediately when I put it in. Also didn't think enough about the position and width of the flap with the stud. Remade it and used the edges of the failed go to thicken the edges up. Not happy with the uneven dye coverage, this was with pre-wetting the leather slightly then brushing dye on. Big pack of wool daubers ordered. The edges burnished up nicely though. You live you learn! I did the exact same thing when I was making a sheath for my round knife, real dumb moment. If anyone else is reading this and will be sheathing a knife, it's really useful to glue the edges where you're going to be stitching so that the edge of the knife never gets to the stich- this way you don't have to worry about leaving a lot of extra room. Anyone else use sandpaper to provide a rounded edge prior to burnishing? I find it helps.
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Sep 27, 2021 12:00
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I have made many lessons, agreed. I've tried sanding but it's not great on a single layer of 1.0mm. On the subject of glue I was annoyed to find the bottle of fieblings leather cement I just bought is just expensive PVA glue.
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Sep 27, 2021 12:49
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I did attempt using sandpaper to round the edges a bit (before I got a beveler) but all I managed to do was scratch up the face of the leather Since then I've only used it to get the cut edges a bit more even and/or get a start with the burnishing or paint prep.
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Sep 27, 2021 14:14
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cakesmith handyman posted:Next I'm going to experiment with 3d printed bucks for wet moulding and order an edge beveler, thought I'd got one but either mistaken or lost it, and a diamond awl. Might also try quilting a small decorative panel in the Macintosh style. I have done none of these things, instead I got pissed off digging through a pile to find the right tools and bought this design:  I thought I could probably design and make something close enough from the pictures but there's no shame in letting someone else do the trial and error. Rough cut everything out and used like a third of the small 5oz side I bought, already itching to buy another, maybe 7-8oz would be handy. I'll get to the accurate cutting and punching tomorrow, ordered some magnetic snaps also.
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Sep 29, 2021 22:46
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Leather goons, some advice please  I make my own cycling shoes. They are mostly carbon fibre expoxy with leather uppers that are bonded on the shells. The leather is ~1mm chrome tan kangaroo. I basically know nothing about leather except what I've had to learn to make a few pairs shoes. I recently crashed my bike for the first time and roughed up the pair I only finished a month or so before. It has not abraded through anywhere. If I had to guess there's still 0.5mm thickness at the thinnest point. Whats the best way to 'repair'? Current thought is to remove that bit of velcro, try to glue/seal the ends of the ruined stitched. Then gently clip/sand the really rough peeled/up parts, then trying to burnish or polish it. I could do it by hand I guess, or I have a small dremel type rotary tool too. Is there typical compounds for this kind of thing?   
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Oct 2, 2021 22:30
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Hat.  
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Oct 3, 2021 21:12
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simmyb posted:Leather goons, some advice please This is a tough one. I'd use fibreglass resin (do you still have any epoxy from the CF?) to seal it after sanding to remove loose bits of fabric. After that you can apply black boot polish until it's built up enough that you can polish it down.
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Oct 3, 2021 21:16
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God yall don't do enough 
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Oct 7, 2021 20:44
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There's about a bajillion holes to punch in the tool bag I'm making, got that finished yesterday now need to decide on colours and dye it before I can start the bit I enjoy, stitching!
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Oct 7, 2021 20:51
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