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well tbf it's less that it's the weakest and more that the uh performance gap or delta between the 3060 and 3060ti (supposedly a small upgrade) is considerably larger than the one between the 3060ti and the 3070. that's why it's marketed so affordably comparatively. you can spec high performance 16x2 kits on promo here for like, £120-150 quite often if you were worried about ram compatability and it's the easiest upgrade in the case by a lot, sec here's some examples. even the fancy rgb kits go around here sometimes https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/co...germany-3786243 (have to order on german site but will ship via uk mainland anyway) bit more sensible https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/cr...-amazon-3786760 even if you had a two slot board it wouldn't be too pricy.
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Sep 1, 2021 01:08
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Z the IVth posted:CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor (£243.78 @ Amazon UK) Reposting my proposed build here as I have a question. I've found a 3600 at a bargain bin price of half that of the 5600x. Given that gaming isn't going to be my priority with this system is there any reason I shouldn't go for it?
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Sep 1, 2021 01:37
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Z the IVth posted:Reposting my proposed build here as I have a question. in gaming the difference is pretty marginal anything over 1080 and even then it's far from bad. what is the other purpose? if it's some sort of time sensitive CPU productivity task there could be an argument. i went with a 3300X, the 3600X's little brother and am quite happy with it.
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Sep 1, 2021 01:44
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CoolCab posted:in gaming the difference is pretty marginal anything over 1080 and even then it's far from bad. what is the other purpose? if it's some sort of time sensitive CPU productivity task there could be an argument. i went with a 3300X, the 3600X's little brother and am quite happy with it. My processor has a boost functionality that is an actual working piece of hardware(software?). I idle at 2.9GHz. I play Naraka at almost 5. 60% of my computer’s time is fine at 2.9, and the weird thing about the marketing actually stopped my search scanning immediately. “Why would you put a 2.9GHz chip in a RTX 3070 machine? Lemme check that out.” The info I found researching it felt good, and was the second main reason I bought the particular one five minute period it wasn’t sold out from under me 😬!
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Sep 1, 2021 02:46
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Z the IVth posted:Reposting my proposed build here as I have a question. Not really. In the future you could upgrade to an Ampere or RDNA2 video card, and a 3600 would be totally fine with them, especially if you're playing at 1440p or higher. That said, a 5600x will have much better application performance outside of games.
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Sep 1, 2021 06:14
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:The main thing I'd worry about in this instance is air recirculation. It seems likely to me, given the case and fan arrangement, that a lot of the air being pushed through his lone intake fan is coming from inside the case rather than outside. Filling the front with a wall of fans configured for intake would prevent this in addition to providing more overall airflow. CoolCab posted:e: haha beaten by the good doctor Thanks for the fan chat. Checking the docs for my case and mobo, it looks like I have a theoretical limit of 3 fans up front, 2 on top and 2 in back (though that assumes no GPU, so only 1 rear exhaust for me), all 120mm. My mobo shows 3 case fan plugs (and one for the CPU), one in back, one up top and one towards the front. SO, what I could do with that 5-pack Dr. G linked, is have a front-bottom and front-middle fan chained into SYS_FAN3, a top-front and front-top INtake fan (drawing fresh air down and into the path of the front 3 fans) chained into SYS_FAN2, and then the rear fan and a back-top OUTtake fan in SYS_FAN1 to vent warm air from the rear of the case. Does that sound reasonable?
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Sep 1, 2021 06:33
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Z the IVth posted:Reposting my proposed build here as I have a question. Get a lightly used 3600 for £100 (they come up on Facebook marketplace constantly, just be patient), then either bank the £140 you’ve saved or turn it into a used GTX 970 with some change left over, or sell the 770 for £50 or so and turned the combined savings into a GTX 980Ti (or a well priced 1070, if you’re patient). Net additional cost to you over your posted build = 0 but you have a system that can very credibly game at 1080p, certainly so much more than a 5600x + 770. The only thing a 5600x does over a 3600 is provide some additional FPS on very powerful GPUs when gaming at 1080p while you’re already into the 100’s.
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Sep 1, 2021 08:39
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Takes No Damage posted:Thanks for the fan chat. Checking the docs for my case and mobo, it looks like I have a theoretical limit of 3 fans up front, 2 on top and 2 in back (though that assumes no GPU, so only 1 rear exhaust for me), all 120mm. My mobo shows 3 case fan plugs (and one for the CPU), one in back, one up top and one towards the front. This sounds doable. I've never seen CoolCab's alternating intake/exhaust setup on the top fan slots before, but if it works, it works.  Also be sure to check how many pins your motherboard fan headers are, and how many your current case fans are. If they're all 4-pin, then great, don't worry about it. If the motherboard headers are 4-pin but your current fans are 3-pin, then you may want to connect those to the motherboard separately from the new fans if you're keeping them (you can connect 3-pin fans to 4-pin headers just fine, but the 3-pin fans might act weird when daisy-chained with a 4-pin fan). If the motherboard headers are 3-pin, then you can still use the fans I linked, but you'll have to rely on voltage-based fan control rather than PWM fan control (voltage-based fan control has just three stages usually, while PWM can be finely tuned down to the percent of their max RPM). Some graphics cards even have extra fan headers you can plug case fans into so they get controlled directly by your GPU instead of the motherboard. I kinda doubt a 2060 will be that tricked out, though. Fans, they're more complicated than you think.
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Sep 1, 2021 12:39
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:This sounds doable. I've never seen CoolCab's alternating intake/exhaust setup on the top fan slots before, but if it works, it works. to be fair my setup is weird. four lovely one speed slow casefans with three awful mostly blocked intakes, two good fans alternating on top and feeding directly into an Arctic esports duo with two excellent fans facing front to back. I think I was both starved for intake and exhaust because adding the fans significantly improved performance. e: but to be fair the "cool" part of my name refers to the fact i grew up in the arctic and as such prefer ambient to be as close to zero as is allowed without my pipes freezing lol
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Sep 1, 2021 13:05
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My Motherboard up and died so I decided I wanted to get a new CPU & Mobo. Decided to get a 5600x, what is a good Motherboard to pair with it? I found some and seems like a majrotiy them require flashing the BIOS.
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Sep 1, 2021 18:17
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Fat_Cow posted:My Motherboard up and died so I decided I wanted to get a new CPU & Mobo. Decided to get a 5600x, what is a good Motherboard to pair with it? I found some and seems like a majrotiy them require flashing the BIOS. they probably don't, actually. pc part picker will throw up that warning because some boards (B450 and B550 and maybe more) predate the 5000 series, so in theory there could be some old stock out there in a warehouse somewhere that has the old bios. but the chips have been out a year now and the overwhelming majority of mobo stock is updated. also, any board with BIOS flashback or similar can do it even without an older chip, or i think some manufacturers have loaner programs - all you need is an older Ryzen chip in there long enough to update it. B550 is the recommendation that this threads throws most often cause it's a great price/performance sweet spot. there's a tier list on LTT's forums for mobo VRMs but for a 5600X that's probably not relevant. find one that has the features you want and is in budget.
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Sep 1, 2021 18:27
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Fat_Cow posted:My Motherboard up and died so I decided I wanted to get a new CPU & Mobo. Decided to get a 5600x, what is a good Motherboard to pair with it? I found some and seems like a majrotiy them require flashing the BIOS. Any B550 motherboard will be fine, and 99.5% won't need flashing. That was the case for B450 models, and maybe the first few B550s, but any motherboards currently being made are fully compatible with the 5600X's generation. Just find any B550 motherboard that isn't badly reviewed and that fits your specific use case, it's honestly one of the bigger no brainers in building a PC right now EDIT what CC said
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Sep 1, 2021 18:27
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If you want a good place to start the b550m pro vdh wifi is like $100 and well reviewed.
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Sep 1, 2021 18:44
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Barry Foster posted:Any B550 motherboard will be fine, and 99.5% won't need flashing. That was the case for B450 models, and maybe the first few B550s, but any motherboards currently being made are fully compatible with the 5600X's generation. In the unlikely event that flashback (or similarly marketed features depending on manufacturer) is needed because the board's BIOS doesn't recognize a 5XXX series Ryzen, Asus, Gigabyte, and MSI have offerings in that respect. But so long as any vendor has seen regular refresh with their stock, chances of that are (probably) pretty low these days.
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Sep 1, 2021 18:48
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Takes No Damage posted:Thanks for the fan chat. Checking the docs for my case and mobo, it looks like I have a theoretical limit of 3 fans up front, 2 on top and 2 in back (though that assumes no GPU, so only 1 rear exhaust for me), all 120mm. My mobo shows 3 case fan plugs (and one for the CPU), one in back, one up top and one towards the front. You could do what cab is doing, but frankly the goal is to get fresh air in and then out as fast as possible. This is why push/pull is the standard and it works so well. By doing this, you're smashing air from the front intake into air from the top intake, causing it to just sit rather than flow cleanly, before being sucked up by the exhaust.
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Sep 1, 2021 19:10
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Begall posted:Get a lightly used 3600 for £100 (they come up on Facebook marketplace constantly, just be patient), then either bank the £140 you’ve saved or turn it into a used GTX 970 with some change left over, or sell the 770 for £50 or so and turned the combined savings into a GTX 980Ti (or a well priced 1070, if you’re patient). This is my reasoning as well. There are some "Grade B" units on OCUK that are going for about £150. I'm going to see if I can bring it down to about £120 which would be reasonable given they're offering a 3 month warranty.
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Sep 1, 2021 19:41
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:You could do what cab is doing, but frankly the goal is to get fresh air in and then out as fast as possible. This is why push/pull is the standard and it works so well. let me try and visualize it. so, i went out and bought the Arctic F12s as a multipack of 5 only before discovering the kind i bought didn't daisy chain - my original intent was to pull out the poor casefans and replace them with the three spare Arctics i had. i was going to buy a cheapo header and do it that way, but the second i installed the top fans the problem disappeared, and got even better when i later upgraded my CPU cooler.  the intent is for intake at the front half of the case and then rely on the strong CPU fans and the three on the front to ensure air flows (mostly) from right to left. the CPU gets very fresh air, the recirculation problem seems to be addressed somewhat by the dual exhausts venting < and ^, or possibly just from my ambient being low and the area it's venting (under my desk) encouraging flow out of the keyboard tray, i think. i dunno if it's the particularities of my living situation or my Frankenstein combination of different fans but it works really well. i don't know if it would for someone else but it works for me for sure!
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Sep 1, 2021 19:44
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but like i say that's purely trial and error - if the thermal issue had persisted i would have tried alternate arrangements and probably at least tried the last fan as intake. but then i don't have my finger warmer, so who can really say who wins?
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Sep 1, 2021 19:47
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If the front intakes are that bad, then yeah that could make sense.
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Sep 1, 2021 19:51
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Looks like I wandered in here at the right time to ask about fan placement. I've got a Lian Li O11D XL showing up tomorrow, and will be moving my system into that. Current plan is 3 120mm on the bottom for intake, 3 120mm on side for intake, and 3 120mm exhausting through the 360mm CPU AIO rad up top.
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Sep 1, 2021 21:33
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:This sounds doable. I've never seen CoolCab's alternating intake/exhaust setup on the top fan slots before, but if it works, it works. Yep, verified mine are 4-pin. I even rebooted into BIOS and hunted around until I found my fan config PWM options, and while I don't see any fan control from the 2060 itself it does look like I can tie each MB fan plug to a different temp source, one of which is called PCIx16 which I can only assume means the GPU. This is pretty much exactly my planned setup, except my CPU fan is pointed straight down so it's just going to dissipate air everywhere. Like I said above I ~think~ my BIOS is going to let me tie all my case fans to GPU temp so I should be able to have at least the 5 pack all spinning up and down based on that (the rear fan that came with the kit is plugged in to something else, probably for the Hot GamurTM RGB controls so it's not actually taking up a mobo fan plug, but I'm fine with it running all the time anyway). That's probably still not ideal but it will be worlds better than what I've got now.
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Sep 1, 2021 23:47
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i have heard tales of it working when i googled around to find out why the hell (my expectation was that my solution was only going to be needed as long as i didn't have a fan hub), give it some testing for sure. due to circumstance i sorta can't shy of tearing out all four of the casefans since they're hardwired together, but i'd be very curious if you'd be willing to give it a go.
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Sep 1, 2021 23:51
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Takes No Damage posted:Yep, verified mine are 4-pin. I even rebooted into BIOS and hunted around until I found my fan config PWM options, and while I don't see any fan control from the 2060 itself it does look like I can tie each MB fan plug to a different temp source, one of which is called PCIx16 which I can only assume means the GPU. So you’re going to exhaust your CPU directly into your GPU?
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Sep 2, 2021 00:20
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:So you’re going to exhaust your CPU directly into your GPU? drat. Red dragon vs Gold dragon. Who will cook off first? (Yes I am nerdman)
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Sep 2, 2021 01:37
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Takes No Damage posted:Yep, verified mine are 4-pin. I even rebooted into BIOS and hunted around until I found my fan config PWM options, and while I don't see any fan control from the 2060 itself it does look like I can tie each MB fan plug to a different temp source, one of which is called PCIx16 which I can only assume means the GPU. I'd run both top fans to exhaust. Looks fine otherwise you can't get away from your GPU getting some CPU hot air no matter what unless you're running an AIO/water loop on one or the other.
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Sep 2, 2021 01:50
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Killer_B posted:Not entirely certain if this is the correct thread for asking about uninterruptible power supply (UPS) units or not, apologies if the question needs to be asked elsewhere. Forgive my pseudo-math, but Required Capacity = Desired Runtime x PSU Watts x Workload Factor. The actual math is non-linear, and your best and laziest sizing answer is going to come from the UPS manufacturer's runtime calculator. You need a sufficiently-sized UPS for the amount of runtime you want at the load you want. UPSes are broadly intended to give you just enough time to safely shut down (or switch to generator) in the event of a power failure. 10 or 15 minutes is a long time in UPS terms with the kinds of computers most of us are building here. So yes, step one is knowing your power requirements, and from there you can balance how long you want to run against how much money you want to spend. In your particular case, you'd most likely want two UPSes; most consumer models can only connect to one computer for management, and most UPSes will cut the battery as soon as that system finishes shutting down. (i.e. With a single UPS, one of your computers would always have a dirty shutdown when it just suddenly loses power.) DerekSmartymans posted:I am interested in this, too. Is there a command or app or even a Power Shell script to detect a power flux and shut down as quickly as reasonably possible while the UPS is working? For that, you just need a free USB port on your computer and a UPS with signaling support (most of them, today). Unless you're still running Windows XP for whatever reason, UPS USB support has been built into your OS of choice for years. Plug and play and configure it in your power control panel. (It took forever to get there, but it's there.) It's a boring feature so it doesn't get much mention, but it's there and ready to work, much to many people's surprise. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Sep 2, 2021 |
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Sep 2, 2021 18:19
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Molten Llama posted:Forgive my pseudo-math, but Required Capacity = Desired Runtime x PSU Watts x Workload Factor. The actual math is non-linear, and your best and laziest sizing answer is going to come from the UPS manufacturer's runtime calculator. Great! I’ll check it out. My old UPS works fine for the TV and antenna and Apple TV box, but it doesn’t even have usb or anything besides receptacles (12 of them). I figured (and have seen now that I’m actually in the market) newer ones would have extra functionality as well as not being neutron-star density bricks. It’s mainly because of how hard sourcing a new GPU was/is. I just don’t want a too-fast shutdown to physically damage it. It’s not cost, because I have a long replacement guarantee, I just don’t want to go through the process if it’s something I can lower the risk by my own choices.
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Sep 2, 2021 19:20
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How well will a 3060 handle gaming on one 1920x1080 monitor while playing videos on the other? Follow up question: If I later manage to get my hands on a 3080 (and, presumably, a much fancier monitor to make it worthwhile), will a b550 motherboard be enough to jam the two in beside each other or should I spring for the x570 now? Splicer fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Sep 2, 2021 |
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Sep 2, 2021 21:29
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Splicer posted:How well will a 3060 handle gaming on one 1920x1080 monitor while playing videos on the other? Mine has been able to max out every game I've thrown at it in 1080p, so probably just fine. Gonna depend on the game though I'm sure.
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Sep 2, 2021 21:44
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Splicer posted:How well will a 3060 handle gaming on one 1920x1080 monitor while playing videos on the other? Think of playing videos as being essentially a nonissue. I can't answer your question about the motherboard but yeah any issues playing a video would be more related to weird drivers or something, it's not taxing at all.
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Sep 2, 2021 21:47
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uh do you intend to run your 3060 and 3080 at once?
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Sep 2, 2021 22:06
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Thanks for the resolution answers, is what I thought but I was running into weird stuff on the slowly dying 580 that got worse when videos were playing at the same time.CoolCab posted:uh do you intend to run your 3060 and 3080 at once? 
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Sep 2, 2021 22:35
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Splicer posted:Have I said something dumb by badly misunderstanding the concept of SLI You need an SLI bridge to physically connect the two cards as one and run SLI, I believe the 3090 is the only Ampere card that has the actual port to do that. Also, can you even mix and match if you wanted to run two cards in tandem?
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Sep 2, 2021 22:36
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SLI is effectively dead by the way (and you shouldn't be doing it in the year 2021).
Thom P. Tiers fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Sep 2, 2021 |
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Sep 2, 2021 22:39
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change my name posted:You need an SLI bridge to physically connect the two cards as one and run SLI, I believe the 3090 is the only Ampere card that has the actual port to do that. Also, can you even mix and match if you wanted to run two cards in tandem? Thom P. Tiers posted:SLI is effectively dead by the way.
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Sep 2, 2021 22:41
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change my name posted:You need an SLI bridge to physically connect the two cards as one and run SLI, I believe the 3090 is the only Ampere card that has the actual port to do that. Also, can you even mix and match if you wanted to run two cards in tandem? even with two 3090s you can't run classic SLi because nvidia dropped driver support with ampere it only works with the handful of games that go out of their way to support multi gpu
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Sep 2, 2021 23:03
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Splicer posted:
nah i think SLI always has to be the same card. i don't know if it has to be the same exact model but only 970s can pair with other 970s and so forth.
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Sep 2, 2021 23:04
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Final question, 5800x vs 5600x, is the benefit of the 5800x just not worth the cost jump or is it actually meaningless for gaming? Assuming what I want is longevity (not future proofing, I mean I want it to physically last) I'm looking at the 5600x's lower temperatures. Again dual monitor setup and will usually be running something in the other window, but not like software renders or what have you. If it's actually worth the jump though then I'd prefer to spend the 100 euro. Splicer fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Sep 2, 2021 |
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Sep 2, 2021 23:50
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if you have a productivity role or some other specific role for an eight core chip go for it, but quite frankly typically if i have to ask you don't have one. it's more cores, if you have something to do more cores with it does more, gaming is not typically as core heavy.
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Sep 2, 2021 23:54
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The 5800X currently provides gaming performance that's nearly identical to the 5600X. Save the money, get a 5600X.
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Sep 2, 2021 23:55
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