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22 Eargesplitten posted:Is putting a car under a cover for the winter going to risk rusting it? Assume low humidity but lots of snow. I'm thinking about putting my SVX away for the winter. V interested in the answer to this; I have had an empty garage to store my XK8 in for the past few years but it will likely not be available from now on, so I'm considering storing it on my back patio. I figure the best bet is to park it atop a tarpaulin (to serve as a barrier from below) and with a waterproof car cover on top - but it'll obviously get decimated by snow and the like until spring next year. Also there'll be loads more opportunity for critters and the like to get into it so... yeah, thoughts/suggestions?
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Aug 30, 2021 18:45
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spankmeister posted:Condensation makes sense, drive it on the highway more often. You should also do this to clear out carbon buildup in the intake and stuff like that. I had to do the intake manifold gasket probably 6 months ago, and it looked like a brand loving new engine once I had the manifold off. No build up on the valve stems, in the ports, or on the throttle body blade. I did the valve cover gasket and spark plug grommets last year (also plugs), and aside from a tiny bit of varnish, the engine looks brand new inside. No marks on the cams, no sludge, plugs had a lot of carbon, but little wear... but you can tell its mostly seen cheap oil. We took it on a ~275 mile round trip recently (and we were staying 15 minutes out of town, all 55 mph road from the cabin to town, plus a good bit of sight seeing for about 20 miles in every direction), and I was beating on it pretty good (lots of twisty hilly roads that made me yell WHEE WHEEEEEEEEEEE like the Geico pig); Toyota gave me a bunch of numbers on the gauges, and by god, I intended to get my money's worth out of those gauges!  I wish I could comfortably drive stick regularly again; if I could, it would see Italian tuneups every day. That engine just wants to go, though it sounds kinda ratty past about 4500 (I think that's more the VVT kicking in, plus the original muffler from 2004).Dealer pointed out that the oil pan and timing cover are leaking, they "strongly suggest" fixing them. Why? Had it not been pointed out, I would have never noticed; there was a single drop visible on the corner of the oil pan last time I changed the oil, the timing cover just looks a little dirty, and in 17 years, it's never needed the oil topped off between oil changes. I don't bother fixing oil leaks unless they're causing a smell (valve cover), fouling plugs (valve cover), or leaking enough that I have to top off oil (usually a crank seal). Tech even complimented us on how drat clean it is; apparently it's the only Matrix they've ever touched at that dealer (fairly new Toyota lot), and the only desert Corolla/Matrix they've seen. It looks brand new on the underside. Most Texas cars at least have a tiny bit of surface rust on the exhaust from the humidity, but this one spent half of its life in the desert. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Aug 30, 2021 |
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Aug 30, 2021 19:08
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As someone who's brother has a similarly clean Matrix, it'd find excuses to drive it fast just for the hell of it (though burning out the "cobwebs" wouldn't hurt it either).
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Aug 30, 2021 22:01
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I have a 1987 Toyota Corolla FX16. FWD, 4AGE, etc etc. It was a factory AC car but the AC has never worked for all the time I've owned it. Previous owner said he suspected it was that the compressor is busted, which I believe him since he was a Honda Performance Division engineer and bought the car as a project + canyon toy, and went reasonably deep with replacing worn out components on it/installing upgrades. Past that, I'm kind of clueless. If I do end up replacing the compressor (seems to be readily available from several nearby Toyota dealerships), will a bog standard automotive AC shop be able to install it and do whatever necessary cleaning/conversion/etc is needed to convert it from R12 to R134a? Is it something I can do myself in a day (besides charging the system)? I think I saw an AC thread some time ago, but I couldn't find it when I went looking.
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Aug 31, 2021 00:10
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ishikabibble posted:I have a 1987 Toyota Corolla FX16. FWD, 4AGE, etc etc. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3970674 Here's the AC thread! Moronic watches this thread too though iirc. But the OP should give you a head start.
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Aug 31, 2021 00:19
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Charles posted:Moronic watches this thread Thank you for that.
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Aug 31, 2021 00:56
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Motronic posted:Thank you for that. lmao autocorrect is not a fan of European fuel injection.
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Aug 31, 2021 02:21
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I had a Saturn Vue AWD V6 2004 and tried towing a 2500 pound trailer (says it can tow up to 3500) which worked for an hour but then I got a "transmission overheating" warning light and when I stopped I could smell burning oil, transmission fluid was cooked I assume. I slowed down and shifted to "intermediate" and the warning light eventually went away and I made it home. The car sounds fine again now that I'm back and it's idling. Should I be driving in intermediate/low gear or is Drive still appropriate? If I get this checked out is there any telltale signs of damage I should watch out for? Lastly I see some people recommending a "transmission cooler", how does that work? Seems like just heatsink fins attached to the underbelly?
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Aug 31, 2021 06:37
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STR do you know how the Honda H5 transmission is?
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Aug 31, 2021 07:48
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That was the tail end of flaky Honda automatics (and Zero AGS, if you didn't know, you really have a Honda engine and transmission in there - first gen V6 Vues used the Honda 3.5 and 5 speed automatic, they scoot really well considering they normally had 110 hp less out of a 2.2). Really I think their issues were mostly done by 03, but I want to say some 04s had issues. If it's lasted this long though, it's fine. Zero AGS, just drive it normally, change the fluid when you can. Make sure to use Honda DW or Z1 compatible transmission fluid, NOT GM Dexron fluid (the 4 cylinders used Dexron, as they had a GM transmission). If a shop does it, remind them it uses Honda fluid, not Dexron. And if you haven't had the timing belt done, now is the time to do it. It's not cheap, but if you don't want to get stuck on the side of the road when it lets go (and needing a new engine), you should do it ASAP. DildenAnders posted:As someone who's brother has a similarly clean Matrix, it'd find excuses to drive it fast just for the hell of it (though burning out the "cobwebs" wouldn't hurt it either). It's not really "clean", just maintained. The paint is shot, interior's about what you'd expect from a well maintained older car (some stains, a little musty smelling, but no tears), has hail damage. Mechanically it's sound, and surprisingly fun to drive until you have to go uphill. Still has the original suspension except for the front LCAs (easier to replace the arms vs the bushings). Never did get it aligned after, I might try to do that today. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:24 on Aug 31, 2021 |
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Aug 31, 2021 09:21
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I got my tires rotated last week. This morning, I had a puncture on the inside sidewall of the tire. Could the two be related? I am only asking because I had to bang on the tire to remove it after I removed the nuts because it wouldn't come off, and I noticed this weird black streak on the inside wall of the tires. Is that just normal wear and tear? I'm going to ask the tire guy to take a look at it when I take the car in, but I was just curious. The tires are four years old, but I'll probably just replace the whole set. 
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Aug 31, 2021 17:51
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That does not look normal and if you had to bang on the tire to get it off after the nuts were removed, I'd highly suspect that your tires weren't actually rotated. If they were, the tire shop would likely have noticed that and been salivating at the thought of selling you a new tire.
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Aug 31, 2021 18:03
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:That does not look normal and if you had to bang on the tire to get it off after the nuts were removed, I'd highly suspect that your tires weren't actually rotated. Problem is, I went to a Valvoline because I figured how hard can it be to rotate tires. I called them and they're already in full CYA we deny any responsibility mode. I saw them remove and rotate the tires. I am just wondering if the lug nuts were improperly tightened or something. EDIT VVVVV: Shouldn't rust be a non-issue because I got them rotated just a week ago? Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Aug 31, 2021 |
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Aug 31, 2021 19:28
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Hard to remove wheels aren't that uncommon with surface rust, not sure how long it takes to happen as I'm in a low rust area.
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Aug 31, 2021 19:34
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How hard did you have to hit the tire to get it off?
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Aug 31, 2021 19:57
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Bioshuffle posted:EDIT VVVVV: Shouldn't rust be a non-issue because I got them rotated just a week ago? I'm hoping somebody with more experience chimes in on how long it might take. I mean my brake rotors get rusty overnight 
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Aug 31, 2021 20:07
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Normally when I've put in spares, the tire just comes right off, but this time I had to give a pretty solid whack with a tire iron to get it loosened. Also, any thoughts on Discount Tire vs Costco Tire Center?
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Aug 31, 2021 20:07
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Charles posted:I'm hoping somebody with more experience chimes in on how long it might take. I mean my brake rotors get rusty overnight Bare steel and iron can get light surface rust in minutes sometimes. I live in Canada and the only time I've ever had trouble getting a wheel off due to rust or corrosion is if it's been on there for months. And those months were the winter months. For the op the only thing I can think of is that the center bore of the wheel may have been rusty, or otherwise corroded and the tire guy just jammed the wheel on and cranked the lugs down with the impact gat.
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Aug 31, 2021 20:46
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Bioshuffle posted:
I have nothing bad to say about either of these. Install is probably going to be about equal. Price may be lower at Costco if the tires are on special. I don't find Costco's pricing to be that great really but once you factor in total out the door pricing it's not bad.
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Aug 31, 2021 20:50
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Bioshuffle posted:I got my tires rotated last week. This morning, I had a puncture on the inside sidewall of the tire. Could the two be related? I am only asking because I had to bang on the tire to remove it after I removed the nuts because it wouldn't come off, and I noticed this weird black streak on the inside wall of the tires. That looks a lot like either you were cornering like it was a race car, or it was driven on while very low on air. But both of those should have fairly equal markings on the outside. Are they the stock tire size? If they're wider than stock, that could be from rubbing a little during turns.
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Aug 31, 2021 23:01
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Yeah, if the streak is only on the inside, that looks like it's rubbing on something. Turn the wheels all the way, look to see if it's interfering somewhere, turn them all the way the other way, check again. If it's on both sides, that's classic low pressure wear. Driving like it's a race car would've worn everything down to that point, too.
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Aug 31, 2021 23:48
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Costco's tire center is highly dependant on specific location. Mine is great, other people report theirs sucks. If you have an executive membership then it makes even more sense to go for tires at Costco because of the kickback.
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Sep 1, 2021 01:23
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I'm looking into getting some roof bars for my 2019 Civic sedan so I can slap a cargo carrier up there to make road trips and camping better. Are roof bars fitted to specific vehicles or can I more or less get generic ones? About how much should I expect to throw down for something like this?
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Sep 1, 2021 19:49
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Aftermarket roof racks usually can be configured to fit a range of different cars, using adjustable parts or kits of model-specific mounts that attach to the standard rack. I have a set of Yakima racks for my car and I like them a lot -- very sturdy and I've used them for many cross-continent road trips and to carry canoes and kayaks. They're about 350-500 dollars depending on what kit your car needs. I know there are lighter-duty racks available that don't cost as much, and those may be suitable for your use. But do consider that you really don't want whatever you put up there to come loose and fly off on the highway, so getting a quality product up front is probably worth it.
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Sep 1, 2021 19:54
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My 2001 Sierra has had two theft attempts in the last year. I assume because it's an easy target (it's parked in a backlane). It has an immobilizer in it, so the thieves aren't able to get it started, but they do gently caress up the steering console which leads to a couple of weeks of being without it while it gets repaired. There is a sticker on the window that says the truck has an immobilizer, but maybe that sticker isn't big enough for idiots to notice, so I'm thinking about getting The Club to put on as a bigger/brighter deterrent. Are thieves still deterred by The Club or is there a newer theft deterrent that I should look at?
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Sep 1, 2021 20:35
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Sagebrush posted:Aftermarket roof racks usually can be configured to fit a range of different cars, using adjustable parts or kits of model-specific mounts that attach to the standard rack. Koth posted:My 2001 Sierra has had two theft attempts in the last year. I assume because it's an easy target (it's parked in a backlane). It has an immobilizer in it, so the thieves aren't able to get it started, but they do gently caress up the steering console which leads to a couple of weeks of being without it while it gets repaired. I'd try this. It may not be visible enough to stop them from getting in, but once they're in, it's probably enough to convince them to leave it. Or, setup a very obvious camera looking at the truck, possibly with signs indicating it's presence.
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Sep 1, 2021 20:49
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e: wrong thread
Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Sep 6, 2021 |
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Sep 1, 2021 20:54
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Make: Toyota Model: Prius Year: 2013 So tonight my steering wheel is making a sound of plastic sliding against other plastic. Here's a video for reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_ipxkTdrt4 What's going on exactly? How do I fix this?
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Sep 2, 2021 05:12
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punk rebel ecks posted:Make: Toyota Is the plastic housing on the back of the wheel detached? Or maybe the housing covering the steering column? Sounds like those two trim pieces are rubbing
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Sep 2, 2021 05:32
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Ok Comboomer posted:Is the plastic housing on the back of the wheel detached? Or maybe the housing covering the steering column? Sounds like those two trim pieces are rubbing I'd assume so. What's the best way to fix this? I hope it isn't too hard.
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Sep 2, 2021 19:19
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Well, first you need to know what's happening, so I suggest you stick your head back there with some illumination and turn the wheel a bit with the car on, in park, with the brake set. You should be able to see, when you look in the gap between the plastic steering wheel trim in the back and the steering column trim, where the rubbing is occurring. You might also find some witness marks with scratching or other markings. Once you do that, you can then figure out which pieces you need to replace based on which trim piece(s) rub(s). Replacing the pieces will be pretty straightforward - either recessed Philips or Torx bolts and or locking tabs on the plastic. But figure out which pieces first. If you can't figure out what's rubbing based on the above I have some other ideas but start there.
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Sep 2, 2021 19:59
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Today it was cooler than its been since I bought my car and the low pressure light came in for 3/4 of my tires. I bought it used and it has green caps on the valve stems, so I assume its nitrogen filled. This afternoon 2 of them were still low (rear tires as 31 psi). The dealership I bought it from is far enough away and Im a ways off from the next maintenance. Can I just fill it with normal air to top it off? Ive never looked, but I dont recall seeing a nitrogen fill station anywhere.
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Sep 2, 2021 23:39
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nwin posted:Today it was cooler than its been since I bought my car and the low pressure light came in for 3/4 of my tires. I bought it used and it has green caps on the valve stems, so I assume its nitrogen filled. This afternoon 2 of them were still low (rear tires as 31 psi). Yeah normal air is 80% nitrogen anyways.
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Sep 2, 2021 23:41
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nwin posted:Today it was cooler than its been since I bought my car and the low pressure light came in for 3/4 of my tires. I bought it used and it has green caps on the valve stems, so I assume its nitrogen filled. This afternoon 2 of them were still low (rear tires as 31 psi). Nitrogen in regular cars is....ummm....bullshit. Yes, you can safely fill it with "regular air" which is already 78% nitrogen.
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Sep 2, 2021 23:44
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nwin posted:Today it was cooler than its been since I bought my car and the low pressure light came in for 3/4 of my tires. I bought it used and it has green caps on the valve stems, so I assume its nitrogen filled. This afternoon 2 of them were still low (rear tires as 31 psi). You're not driving in Formula One. There is no benefit to having pure nitrogen in your tires.
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Sep 2, 2021 23:45
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Um there is actually an extremely large benefit to the dealer, selling literal air for $179.99. Because this is the stupid question thread: pure nitrogen is used in race car tires. The reason it is used there has nothing to do with it being nitrogen or oxygen, but because pure bottled nitrogen is dry and contains no water vapor. Water vapor can have a noticeable effect on tire pressure if you're running at race car speeds and your tires are getting smoking hot, and race cars want consistent tire pressure for predictable performance. In theory any gas could work in the tires, since the point is just that it's dry, but nitrogen is the cheapest. It has zero effect in cars driven on the street, where your tires don't get hot enough for any moisture to make a difference. But it's something else the dealer can add to your bill making vaguely frightening references to performance or reliability. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Sep 3, 2021 |
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Sep 3, 2021 00:04
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Well I learned something today-thanks! I thought I read something that if you get nitrogen you dont have to top off your tires/air doesnt leak out as easily. Welp, time to use my air compressor.
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Sep 3, 2021 00:26
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nwin posted:I thought I read something that if you get nitrogen you don’t have to top off your tires/air doesn’t leak out as easily. Welp, time to use my air compressor. Air is 78% nitrogen anyways. Doesn't make any difference.
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Sep 3, 2021 00:28
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nwin posted:Well I learned something today-thanks! In motorsport application it provides more stable pressure over a wider temperature range. Mostly just because it's a dry gas. It doesnt' matter that it's nitrogen, just that it doesn't have water content. None of this is something to be concerned with in a passenger vehicle.
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Sep 3, 2021 00:29
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I have a 2010 Mazda 3 4-door sedan. I get a little rattle behind my left drivers side air vent and I don't know what it is. I have a pretty bad case of misophonia so it drives me insane. If I had to pick two things that it sounds like: 1. Little screw rattling 2. Something percolating The other thing is it doesn't make the sound at all until you get to like a good speed, like a freeway or highway. Like if I drive it lightly for a week or two just around the local area it will never happen. If I go on a road trip, it starts after 15-30 minutes and will last the entire time, regardless of where you are or your speed. I believe it does it less on real smooth black-top asphalt, but it's hard to tell because my Mazda 3 doesn't exactly drive smooth on anything else. I'm not a car guy which is why I'm here, but I do know long road trips are impossible for my sanity until I can figure this out. I'm happy to take it in but I'm not sure how to replicate it without getting the guy in the car with me and taking a 10-15 minute drive down the highway, because he probably wouldn't even notice it without me in the car. I could probably pre-drive it until it starts doing it, but also wanted to see if anyone here just has an idea, or knows an easy way to pop that vent cover off for inspection. Or anything. I'm just not comfortable flying right now and I really want to visit my folks and they're only a state away.
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Sep 3, 2021 00:36
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