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Anyone climb in the Columbus Ohio area? Looking for gym reviews and eventually nearby outdoor areas once I feel back in shape enough to do that. E: just moved there. Usually a gym climber, but did climb outside at the New River and Cooper's Rock when I could. Probably doing V2ish now, would like to get back to the v4-5 inside I was able to do before when I was climbing regularly. Ravenfood fucked around with this message at 13:50 on Aug 25, 2021 |
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Aug 25, 2021 13:47
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Ravenfood posted:Anyone climb in the Columbus Ohio area? Looking for gym reviews and eventually nearby outdoor areas once I feel back in shape enough to do that. In case you aren't aware, you are only about four hours or so from the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. This is a fantastic climbing area.
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Aug 25, 2021 15:20
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Ravenfood posted:Anyone climb in the Columbus Ohio area? Looking for gym reviews and eventually nearby outdoor areas once I feel back in shape enough to do that. The Red and the New.
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Aug 25, 2021 15:31
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So I'm pretty green to climbing, started going to a local climbing gym with a friend that's qualified instructor about 6 weeks ago. I'm loving every minute so far! Bouldering is definitely my jam, comfortably clearing most v3's and cleared my first v4/6b earlier this week. Finding top roping far more awkward, just about clearing most 5b's and the odd 5c. Only had one session top roping so far. My biggest struggle at the moment though is belaying my friend who is around 16stone. I'm 12st and I'm having to anchor to a 25kg bag which is making rope movement from the ground quite tedious. Heading to Spain for a long weekend in September and will be doing my first outdoor lead climb at a couple of pre pinned cliffs near my friends apartment. Safe to say I'm making GBS threads myself already.
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Aug 29, 2021 09:42
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You could buy weighted belts or chest harnesses and wear those. I've seen people do that (women especially) when they belay people much heavier than them. I have these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BXDBDVW The only issue of course is that you'd need to carry them with you, which would be annoying if it's a long approach to the climbing site. One of my buddies also has an assist-breaking resistor that he uses when he climbs with his girlfriend: https://www.amazon.com/EDELRID-Ohm-Assisted-Breaking-Resister-Oasis/
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Sep 1, 2021 21:25
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Ravenfood posted:Anyone climb in the Columbus Ohio area? Looking for gym reviews and eventually nearby outdoor areas once I feel back in shape enough to do that. There's a free wall at the scioto audobon park that I've always liked. Haven't been to the various bouldering gyms but vertical adventures is pretty good.
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Sep 3, 2021 22:29
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I decided to give the Boulder Better Proven Plan from the power company a try. I'll let you guys know how it goes if there's any interest.
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Sep 4, 2021 04:09
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Feeling strong lately
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Sep 4, 2021 06:33
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I hate bouldering problems where I get shut down on the starting holds but can breeze through the rest of it.
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Sep 5, 2021 01:12
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There's an obnoxious cave problem I've been struggling with for going on to 3 weeks like that, now. Barn door like a motherfucker off the start 99/100 times, but the one time I did stick the start I flashed the rest of it 🤷♂️
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Sep 5, 2021 01:27
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I hate bouldering problems where I get shut down on the starting holds but can breeze through the rest of it. Ugh, these are the worst. For me it's usually combined with a sit-start and I hate them too
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Sep 5, 2021 01:51
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I hate bouldering problems where I get shut down on the starting holds but can breeze through the rest of it. Slimy Hog posted:Ugh, these are the worst. For me it's usually combined with a sit-start and I hate them too this is like, a lot of the 4s/5s at my gym lately and I feel like Im just spinning my wheels going up something adjacent & working backwards I can do a lot of it, but theyre all these cramped crimpy sit starts and going from the starting holds I just perpetually fall on my rear end like an idiot
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Sep 5, 2021 02:46
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I hate bouldering problems where I get shut down on the starting holds but can breeze through the rest of it. theres a yellow 4 just to the right of the entrance in NV that goes to the very top of the wall and ive fallen on the last move like four times and i gotta say... ill take a bad start over that because goddamn i hate that fall
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Sep 5, 2021 10:54
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I hate bouldering problems where I get shut down on the starting holds but can breeze through the rest of it. I'm not sure if that's what I hate the most or bouldering problems where I breeze through the whole thing except the last move is the crux and it's a dynamic move to a not so good hold and you fall arkwardly if you fail.
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Sep 5, 2021 12:04
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Route setters who put the end hold on a problem as some awful mono or tiny crimp know that they're bad people and they enjoy it
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Sep 5, 2021 12:55
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Verviticus posted:theres a yellow 4 just to the right of the entrance in NV that goes to the very top of the wall and ive fallen on the last move like four times and i gotta say... ill take a bad start over that because goddamn i hate that fall Ah, is that on the overhang in the corner beside the slab that I'm always reluctant to try anything on because it always seems so high and scary? Also, toe hooks feel so cool (please ignore how badly I climb the rest of this): https://streamable.com/jknwv2
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Sep 7, 2021 06:12
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There's a rumor going around that my gym hired Sonnie Trotter to set for them 
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Sep 7, 2021 06:21
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i wish my gym's route setters stopped being so obsessed with running start problems
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Sep 7, 2021 06:29
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I was just looking at random photos of a climb out in red rock and I found this: No thank you.
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Sep 7, 2021 13:17
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I've assembled a diverse collection of locking biners based on what has been cheap / on sale, and there is a bewildering variety of them out there and I'm wondering why there are so many different types / how important selection is. For discussion, here's what I have:  From top to bottom: #1 is an auto-locker I use on my PAS. #2 is prusik loop for rappelling or aid climbing #3 is belay/rappel The two matching blueish ones I have not actually used yet but got on sale because of a time I was out with a friend who was using my belay biner to belay me and I realized I didn't have enough locking biners to clean the route and rap down, luckily it was a hike-out spot but I had wanted to practice cleaning. The bottom 2 (black/silver) are the ones I use for a toprope anchor. For single-pitch sport climbing, I believe that even before buying the blue-ish ones, I had enough lockers to do everything you might want to do. (Not pictured are non-locking quickdraws and plenty of ropes/webbing/slings). Anyway I guess I just want a sanity check on what else one might need a locking biner for, and also, why are there so many different types? Like, what could I do with some of these that I wouldn't want to do with another? Could I use any one of these for any of the other applications? The only specific thing I'm aware of is, I was taught not to use an auto-locker in an application with potential shock-loading, i.e. not for toprope anchors. Also what is the deal with those biners with an extra gate inside that I see sometimes?
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Sep 7, 2021 18:08
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alnilam posted:I've assembled a diverse collection of locking biners based on what has been cheap / on sale, and there is a bewildering variety of them out there and I'm wondering why there are so many different types / how important selection is. Generally, if you're carrying up any gear other than protection or draws, you'll want to use locking carabiners. You can use them on draws if you feel the extra security is warranted. Basically you use them in any application where you cannot run the risk of something potentially slipping through the gate of a non-locking carabiner. Bringing up a portaledge or haul bag? Use a locker. Taking pictures of your climbing buddies from off the ground? Use a locker to secure your camera. Using an ascender? You'll need two lockers; one for the foot loop, and one for the ascender itself. Transferring yourself from the top of a bullet train to an escape chopper? Use a locker. And so on. Carabiners with an inner gate, I believe, are meant to be used for belaying; the small gated area tightly encloses your belay loop, reducing the risk of the carabiner and/or belay device shifting around into a cross-loaded position.
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Sep 7, 2021 19:34
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alnilam posted:
Those are pretty much all the same in your picture. I guess one looks like an oval which is kind of worthless. Never heard anything about auto locker failing from shock load, makes no sense to me. I really dislike auto lockers in general but I would use one anywhere I use a regular locker. The extra gate is to prevent cross loading while belaying.
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Sep 7, 2021 19:37
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To a large extent, carabiners of different shapes are interchangeable. Petzl has some info here that may be useful - https://m.petzl.com/INT/en/sport/Different-carabiner-shapes?ProductName=Am-D I like oval non-lockers for racking my stoppers/nuts, because it's easier to shift them around to get the right size. I like large pear shaped lockers when making a master point that needs a lot of room in it, and I use D shaped lockers for basically everything else.
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Sep 7, 2021 19:47
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Thanks for the sanity check. So there's no reason i wouldn't e.g. use the smaller ones (perhaps the matching blue ones) for a TR anchor? I just feel like I usually see bigger biners used for that purpose, which is why I use the black and silver ones. Admittedly kind of a monkey see monkey do thing, and I don't know why it would matter much.spwrozek posted:Never heard anything about auto locker failing from shock load, makes no sense to me. I really dislike auto lockers in general but I would use one anywhere I use a regular locker. The ropes/anchors class I took many years ago was taught by a very old climber who was against them for anything but static loading, like a personal anchor. He actually demonstrated a rope jolting up, passing by the locking mechanism, and pulling it open, though it took him a dozen tries and he clearly had practiced. His bottom line was, this is incredibly unlikely in practice but it's even less likely with a screw gate, so why risk it. I don't know if it's ever happened in practice (I know most climbing falls are for other reasons, not biner failure) but that demo stuck with me. He also got a screw gate biner open by flicking the rope past it a bunch of times, causing it to unscrew a little each time, I guess trying to demonstrate that nothing is foolproof. alnilam fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Sep 7, 2021 |
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Sep 7, 2021 19:54
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I went to the Red River Gorge over the weekend; it was my first time doing any climbing at all in two years. I knew I wasn't going to be at my best, but I hadn't realized just how much strength, endurance, and route memory I'd lost in that time. On Sunday I did my only lead of the trip on Eureka, a 5.6 that felt like a warm-up on my first ever outdoor trip five years ago. While I knew I was still a bit sore from the previous day, I wasn't expecting to struggle at all, as I did. I managed to finish it clean, but holy hell was I shaken by how bad I had gotten. I went in thinking it would be a confidence booster after a rough (as expected) first day; instead I found it disheartening enough that I didn't climb anything else that day. At the same time the whole experience reminded me just how much I've missed climbing. Now I've just got to get myself back into shape.
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Sep 7, 2021 19:55
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alnilam posted:Thanks for the sanity check. So there's no reason i wouldn't e.g. use the smaller ones (perhaps the matching blue ones) for a TR anchor? I just feel like I usually see bigger biners used for that purpose, which is why I use the black and silver ones. Admittedly kind of a monkey see monkey do thing, and I don't know why it would matter much. I would use the smallest locket there for my atc probably. No need to have that giant thing on your harness. I use a gridlock normally with my atc, which is one of the "internal gate" ones you mention. My policy for autolockers (I use petzl tri-act) is that I use them for things my partner isn't necessarily around to double check. I don't use them for purposes where the rope will run through them though. Mostly it's for quickly attaching myself or a piece of gear (bag, shoes, camera, etc) to an anchor. At this point though I have entirely too many carabiners. I just flipped through the pile and I'd say it's actually half and half small pear shaped or D. I haven't ever really observed a meaningful difference between them in real world scenarios. Edit: For the masterpoint on a TR anchor, as long as they're matching, you should be fine with a D or pear shape. Oval should be fine as well but I don't own oval lockers so I've never tried it. I wouldn't call any of yours true ovals. The bottom two are still D shaped, just not drastically so. armorer fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Sep 7, 2021 |
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Sep 7, 2021 20:02
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alnilam posted:Thanks for the sanity check. So there's no reason i wouldn't e.g. use the smaller ones (perhaps the matching blue ones) for a TR anchor? I just feel like I usually see bigger biners used for that purpose, which is why I use the black and silver ones. Admittedly kind of a monkey see monkey do thing, and I don't know why it would matter much. That is some wild teaching.... Wonder how he feels about two opposed draws with no lockers that are used by soooooo many people all the time. Ultimately do what makes you feel the most comfortable.
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Sep 7, 2021 21:18
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spwrozek posted:That is some wild teaching.... I didn't know enough to ask him back then but I'm sure he'd grumble about it. I've definitely top roped on that kind of setup but I do prefer lockers and I make half-locking draws for anchors like that.
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Sep 7, 2021 21:26
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Any recommended stretches for like, my forearms? Theyre getting super tight moreso than just tired after some climbs. Ive been doing just 3/week along with sticking with general lifting + stretching beforehand and thats made it feel a lot better afterwards apart from that. Also, any recommended short stretching routines I could do every day? It feels like flexibility is still also an issue for me when trying to do some of the harder (for me) routes, even if its not hurting anymore.
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Sep 10, 2021 01:12
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Thorn Wishes Talon posted:i wish my gym's route setters stopped being so obsessed with running start problems i wish my gym had more bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:There's a rumor going around that my gym hired Sonnie Trotter to set for them lol yeah im sure he wants to be paid minimum wage and to be treated like poo poo to set for them bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:Ah, is that on the overhang in the corner beside the slab that I'm always reluctant to try anything on because it always seems so high and scary? ohhhhhhhhh is that the beta? lol i just pinched the thing you grabbed and swung over violently Verviticus fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Sep 10, 2021 |
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Sep 10, 2021 02:29
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Verviticus posted:
I think a lot of the new crimpy stuff is his. The brand new pink to the left of the entrance on the wall I last hurt my ankle on is named "from a Trotter to a gallop" in the Venga Climb app, which I also just learned existed. He signed for a 3 month contract so I would guess he is working on something in Squamish this fall also
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Sep 10, 2021 23:36
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thats cool, hope he sets some running jump dynos. i assume heathers telling you all this and i guess she'd know that app fuckin sucks lol
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Sep 11, 2021 05:30
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just saw the alpinist and it's really good
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Sep 11, 2021 09:24
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Verviticus posted:that app fuckin sucks lol Yeah it does lol
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Sep 11, 2021 18:10
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Running starts sound dumb as gently caress and I'm glad nobody sets them where I climb
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Sep 11, 2021 18:43
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There are enough annoying dyno problems last thing I want to see more of are running starts
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Sep 11, 2021 18:55
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Hot Diggity! posted:There are enough annoying dyno problems last thing I want to see more of are running starts Why don't you like V6s with a big dynos followed by 2-3 V2 moves? How else would I claim my V6 climber status?
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Sep 11, 2021 22:29
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My philosophy is that if it's not the type of problem one is likely to encounter outdoors, it's dumb and also a waste of good wall space.
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Sep 11, 2021 22:38
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Re: different carabiners. That guy who runs the Hard is Easy Youtube channel is currently doing an excellent and in-depth series of episodes called "Belaying Masterclass", discussing everything you may want to know about your gear. I'm learning a lot. Here's the episode on carabiners. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3ojYSq_NFY
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Sep 11, 2021 22:41
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Slow News Day posted:My philosophy is that if it's not the type of problem one is likely to encounter outdoors, it's dumb and also a waste of good wall space. Alternatively, you can do those problems outdoors. You probably aren't going to run at a wall and jump outdoors though, because the potential for injury is too high. Just climb in a gym with a lot of wall space and do the problems you like.
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Sep 11, 2021 23:09
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