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Clicking "Get directions" on that page takes me to the Acura dealer by Southcenter Mall I don't doubt that there is a Volvo dealer somewhere (there isn't one where the pin is) that is servicing Polestars, but that page did not give me any kind of comfort that I would be able to get the thing serviced.
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Sep 7, 2021 23:22
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There are apparently 3 locations or something as referenced in the polestar forum post. Apparently there is a place in tukwila, a place in fife, as well as a place in bellevue itself. All somehow all being tagged as polestar bellevue
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Sep 7, 2021 23:25
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Ah, ok! I was just so taken aback by how confusing it was.
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Sep 7, 2021 23:43
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wolrah posted:Did the type 1 connector exist in meaningful production before type 2? Yes! Its Wikipedia... But it's actually a pretty good overview of it and it has solid references. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_J1772#History Basically...blame California! Type 1 was being adopted by the SAE in 2009. CARB (California Air Resources Board) was already looking at mandating vehicles sold in California use the upcoming SAE standard just as they had previously mandated the older SAE standards. Auto manufacturers had to meet CARB requirements to sell vehicles in California. So... Type 1 it was for North American market vehicles. Many of these vehicles were sold in the US market first, thus the proliferation of Type 1. Some early EVs sold outside the US during this time also had Type 1 (early Leafs, Amperas, etc..) Meanwhile German and other EU auto makers and associations adopted the connector put forth by German company Mennekes. Years down the road it eventually became mandated via EU legislation.
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Sep 8, 2021 03:37
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knox_harrington posted:Pics please I'll try to remember to take some pictures after the next wash!
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Sep 8, 2021 09:13
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Anyone know why they'd put a max defrost button down here on the left where I can barely see it next to the headlight switch? Maybe if you're preconditioning the car and want to turn on defrost without getting in and loving with the touch screen I guess? While we're talking about buttons in that area, what's the consensus on EVs in terms of TC on and off with respect to best 0-60 & 1/4 times? I figure the rapid/fine motor control of the electrics is one of the bonuses over an ICE and means the cars are probably generally faster with it on but not sure. I dig the interior aesthetic, the faux suede, patterned aluminum, and speaker grill material look good imo and look and feel more high end compared to a Y interior. 
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Sep 8, 2021 13:42
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Maybe the touch screen is less responsive when it's cold? I don't know enough about biological capacitance.
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Sep 8, 2021 13:46
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Perhaps they figured since you can't see out the front window anyway, you might as well have to look down to find it. Max defrost is a safety thing IMO, much like disabling anti-spin so you can get the best 0-60.
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Sep 8, 2021 13:53
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bird with big dick posted:Anyone know why they'd put a max defrost button down here on the left where I can barely see it next to the headlight switch? Maybe if you're preconditioning the car and want to turn on defrost without getting in and loving with the touch screen I guess? I kind of like that location for that button. Does it turn on the rear defroster at the same time? Open the door, grab your scraper/broom, push the max defrost, then go around the car brushing the snow and scraping the ice off.
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Sep 8, 2021 14:14
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Ola posted:Perhaps they figured since you can't see out the front window anyway, you might as well have to look down to find it. Max defrost is a safety thing IMO, much like disabling anti-spin so you can get the best 0-60. The thread has definitively established that a 3.1s 0-60 is a critical safety feature in school zones.
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Sep 8, 2021 14:16
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cruft posted:Maybe the touch screen is less responsive when it's cold? I don't know enough about biological capacitance. Yeah I wondered about that too. Either way seems like a good idea, just hadn't ever seen it before. The car is great so far except for one big thing which is the performance over 60ish. Doing 0-60 in under 4 and then trapping 100 mph in the 1/4 is extremely noticeable and incongruous and disconcerting. Like a titty the size of a nectarine with an areola the size of a dinner plate.
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Sep 8, 2021 14:55
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cruft posted:The thread has definitively established that a 3.1s 0-60 is a critical safety feature in school zones. Having watched The Transporter, it very much is.
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Sep 8, 2021 15:07
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There was discussion way earlier in the thread about the Mach-E’s max defrost button. At the time, the consensus seemed to be that it was if the touchscreen failed (or was damaged) you could still drive the vehicle in cold weather. So it’s in an out of the way place for that reason. It’s an emergency backup button.
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Sep 8, 2021 15:11
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Orvin posted:There was discussion way earlier in the thread about the Mach-E’s max defrost button. At the time, the consensus seemed to be that it was if the touchscreen failed (or was damaged) you could still drive the vehicle in cold weather. Kinda surprised a touchscreen failure doesn't brick the car, tbh.
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Sep 8, 2021 15:37
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Do these touch screens work with regular gloves? It could also be so you don’t have to take off gloves to prep your car in winter -posting from a 2001 Dodge Ram
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Sep 8, 2021 15:38
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Tesla has apparently completed their factory to produce 10k superchargers per year. https://www.teslarati.com/tesla-supercharger-v3-factory-completed/
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Sep 8, 2021 15:58
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Orvin posted:There was discussion way earlier in the thread about the Mach-E’s max defrost button. At the time, the consensus seemed to be that it was if the touchscreen failed (or was damaged) you could still drive the vehicle in cold weather. Yes, seems like that is too important function to not use a dedicated button. On the other hand, you can't put outdated buttons on the center console where people could see it, so the only possible place is down left, where it's out of sight yet easily reachable by the driver.
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Sep 8, 2021 20:39
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stevewm posted:Yes! Thanks for that, I somehow got stuck at IEC 62196 where they both seemed to have come around at the same time. This makes sense, that it's annoying to have ended up this way but the path wasn't unreasonable.
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Sep 8, 2021 21:06
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So sorry, just to be clear, Type 1 is the J1772 connector we get in N America and Type 2 is the "Mennekes"? So there's no meaningful difference besides the shape? I should probably know this with all the videos I've watched but I've never bothered to check :P
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Sep 8, 2021 21:24
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Charles posted:So sorry, just to be clear, Type 1 is the J1772 connector we get in N America and Type 2 is the "Mennekes"? So there's no meaningful difference besides the shape? I should probably know this with all the videos I've watched but I've never bothered to check :P That's right. You can get an adapter online for like $160. The ones with CCS are a bit more, like $900.
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Sep 8, 2021 21:31
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Charles posted:So sorry, just to be clear, Type 1 is the J1772 connector we get in N America and Type 2 is the "Mennekes"? So there's no meaningful difference besides the shape? I should probably know this with all the videos I've watched but I've never bothered to check :P  Type 2 has two more holes for AC so it can do 3-phase. The comms protocol is the same so adapters work. Some homes here have 22 kW charging installed, at 400V 3-phase it's only 32A. For 220 volt single phase you need 100A. I wouldn't bother getting 22 kW at home, but it's really nice with 11+ on the road if you're spending more than an hour or two somewhere. You don't have to worry about hogging a fast charger and yet you get a meaningful amount of range.
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Sep 8, 2021 21:43
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It's fairly rare for the car to actually have an on board charger capable of taking 22kw though - isn't it just the Zoe and maybe some old Teslas?
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Sep 8, 2021 21:47
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Yeah, but three phase 11 kW is very common in cars. And with European homes usually having three phase power connections, allowing for 11 kW charging at home, the Type 2 plug is a significant improvement over Type 1. It also allows for faster "city"/street chargers that only provide AC.
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Sep 8, 2021 21:48
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dissss posted:It's fairly rare for the car to actually have an on board charger capable of taking 22kw though - isn't it just the Zoe and maybe some old Teslas? The F150 when it comes out will be 19.2kW, but yeah most are in the 7.2-10kW range
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Sep 8, 2021 21:51
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Pretty much all fully electric cars do three-phase 11 kW in Europe, plug-ins are usually limited to single-phase 3.6 kW. And then there's the Renault Zoe offering fast AC charging.
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Sep 8, 2021 21:55
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Tesla says their Cybertrucks will have 11kW onboard chargers which is nuts considering it'll take at least 15 hours to top one off at full power. Rivian also uses 11kW chargers in their R1Ts and R1Ss.
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Sep 8, 2021 21:58
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dissss posted:It's fairly rare for the car to actually have an on board charger capable of taking 22kw though - isn't it just the Zoe and maybe some old Teslas? There's a few others, the big e-tron and the Taycan I believe. But yeah it's more common with 11 kW which is fair enough. It will fill most cars overnight next to the road trip hotel no problem.
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Sep 8, 2021 22:27
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11kw seems like it's going to be the max you can get from a typical receptacle that wasn't put in for EVs or a machine shop. That's 50amps @ 220v.
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Sep 8, 2021 22:42
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A group here in Washington state installed a small network of 70-80A j1772 chargers. I wish I could take full advantage of them. https://www.pluginncw.com/high-amperage-level-2-charging-network
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Sep 8, 2021 23:00
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quote:While we're talking about buttons in that area, what's the consensus on EVs in terms of TC on and off with respect to best 0-60 & 1/4 times? I figure the rapid/fine motor control of the electrics is one of the bonuses over an ICE and means the cars are probably generally faster with it on but not sure. Def faster with it on, and not just because the feedback loops are just so much faster and fine grained - the full torque hit from zero is basically like sidestepping the clutch so all you would do is smoke em up. Also so far performance EV's have had with their max launch modes pretty good programming to allow the tyres to slip a wee bit to get maximum traction which a human aint gonna do. Well... when I say good, the code to actually achieve it is open source and the hardware to make it happen is basically cheaply available so it's barely any real engineering time and it just works.
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Sep 8, 2021 23:46
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Def safer with it on, and not just because the feedback loops are just so much faster and fine grained - the full torque hit from zero is basically like sidestepping the clutch so all you would do is safe em up. Also so far performance EV's have had with their max launch modes pretty good programming to allow the tyres to slip a wee bit to get maximum safety which a human aint gonna do.
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Sep 9, 2021 00:10
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Fame Douglas posted:Yeah, but three phase 11 kW is very common in cars. And with European homes usually having three phase power connections, allowing for 11 kW charging at home, the Type 2 plug is a significant improvement over Type 1. It also allows for faster "city"/street chargers that only provide AC. Too bad 3-phase to the home is not a thing in the US though. 240v 80A single phase charging is most definitely a thing though! Tesla used to offer 80A (and then later 72A) chargers in their vehicles allowing for up to 19.2kW and sold a EVSE to match (the High Power Wall Connector as they called it). Sadly they no longer offer this option, its 48A max in the NA market for Tesla now. Edit: And my garage has a 100A subpanel just waiting for the day another EV with 19.2k charging is available! 
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Sep 9, 2021 01:07
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stevewm posted:Edit: And my garage has a 100A subpanel just waiting for the day another EV with 19.2k charging is available! Extended range F150 Lightning
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Sep 9, 2021 01:23
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What's the word on domestic level 2 charging in the US? Any particular products to avoid or recommend? With a garage I feel like installing a 240V outlet is probably more versatile than a hardwired cable but would like to hear other opinions!
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Sep 9, 2021 06:42
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I've been hearing good things about the grizzl-e, presumably the basic one. Clippercreek is also an option, but I don't know if they have a way to change the max amperage, but I assume not and they're also uglier. If you care about UL listings, grizzl-e is supposedly UL listed, while most of clipper creek's models are ETL. If I was looking for one right now, I'd probably be looking at the grizzl-e. Assuming there are any for sale anyways I wouldn't willingly buy anything IoT, but that's not just for EVSEs. They're unsurprisingly not terribly secure
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Sep 9, 2021 07:16
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Yeah don't get the grizzl-e "smart" version yet from what little I've seen so far. I searched reddit and found a couple of reports of them not charging, or needing firmware updates. Non smart seems like a no frills reliable option, somebody noted the power cord (between the outlet and EVSE) is very short, this is true. Mine has been good but I've never had to run it more than about 2h45m at a time since my car doesn't have that big of a battery :P But yeah get ETL or UL certified. Edit: also for the Grizzl-e it has a GFCI circuit built in so the circuit breaker should not be GFCI for that unit at least.
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Sep 9, 2021 07:46
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Charles posted:Edit: also for the Grizzl-e it has a GFCI circuit built in so the circuit breaker should not be GFCI for that unit at least. Isn't seattle (and some other states) on 2020 NEC which would require the outlet to be GFCI? Seems really awkward, is it just a nuisance if they trip, or is there some other thing going on?
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Sep 9, 2021 08:07
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It'll trip constantly supposedly. Hmm not sure about the code stuff, our resident electrician hasn't posted in a while. Personally I'd rather have the outlet itself be GFCI if that makes sense? But I dunno if any units don't have GFCI built in?
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Sep 9, 2021 08:14
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taqueso posted:11kw seems like it's going to be the max you can get from a typical receptacle that wasn't put in for EVs or a machine shop. That's 50amps @ 220v. Around here the smallest/cheapest grid hookup you can get for a single family home is about 11kW, supplied as a 16A main breaker on 400V three-phase. There are a bunch of increments above this (20, 25, 35, 50 and 63A) too though which you'd need if you actually wanted to use 11kW to charge your car. Upsizing the main breaker is usually sorta expensive though, both in installation and operation (your grid fee depends on the size of the breaker).
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Sep 9, 2021 10:06
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Charles posted:It'll trip constantly supposedly. Hmm not sure about the code stuff, our resident electrician hasn't posted in a while. Personally I'd rather have the outlet itself be GFCI if that makes sense? But I dunno if any units don't have GFCI built in? If it’s hardwired in you can probably skip GFCI protection in the breaker if the unit has GFCI protection. If it’s a plug-in unit you will definitely need a GFCI breaker since if you ever unplug the unit you will have an external outlet unprotected by GFCI which for sure would violate code.
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Sep 9, 2021 10:42
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