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KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


Condolences to your family.

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liz
Nov 4, 2004

Stop listening to the static.
Wow, thanks for all the new car advice. Its a pretty overwhelming decision but I appreciate all the tips.

Some additional questions:

Is there a downside to overpaying your monthly payment at times? I guess I dont want to be locked into a huge monthly payment but still also get a decent rate that Ive seen with 60 month terms. Whats a realistic monthly cost for a new car plus insurance? (Sorry, I am literally coming from zero car ownership here. The only car Ive owned was used and paid cash.) They say what, that your payments shouldnt be more than 20% of your monthly income? Really trying to come to a solid budgeting strategy here before I even step foot into a dealer.

Does it make a difference to shop for cars in or out of the city? Aside from different stock, will deals be better in different places?

Which add ons are actually worth the cost? Do you really need things like paint protection or wheel locks?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

liz posted:

Wow, thanks for all the new car advice. Its a pretty overwhelming decision but I appreciate all the tips.

Some additional questions:

Is there a downside to overpaying your monthly payment at times? I guess I dont want to be locked into a huge monthly payment but still also get a decent rate that Ive seen with 60 month terms. Whats a realistic monthly cost for a new car plus insurance? (Sorry, I am literally coming from zero car ownership here. The only car Ive owned was used and paid cash.) They say what, that your payments shouldnt be more than 20% of your monthly income? Really trying to come to a solid budgeting strategy here before I even step foot into a dealer.

Does it make a difference to shop for cars in or out of the city? Aside from different stock, will deals be better in different places?

Which add ons are actually worth the cost? Do you really need things like paint protection or wheel locks?

The only downside to overpaying your car payment is that you don't have that money to spend on other things. That's about it.

The rest of your questions really depend on the car you're considering, the city and state you live in, your insurance company, your driving history, and a bunch of other stuff. You'll get a better answer is you ask something specific.

zedprime
Jun 9, 2007

yospos

liz posted:

Wow, thanks for all the new car advice. Its a pretty overwhelming decision but I appreciate all the tips.

Some additional questions:

Is there a downside to overpaying your monthly payment at times? I guess I dont want to be locked into a huge monthly payment but still also get a decent rate that Ive seen with 60 month terms. Whats a realistic monthly cost for a new car plus insurance? (Sorry, I am literally coming from zero car ownership here. The only car Ive owned was used and paid cash.) They say what, that your payments shouldnt be more than 20% of your monthly income? Really trying to come to a solid budgeting strategy here before I even step foot into a dealer.

Does it make a difference to shop for cars in or out of the city? Aside from different stock, will deals be better in different places?

Which add ons are actually worth the cost? Do you really need things like paint protection or wheel locks?
20/4/10 rule fits into every budget but it's probably even more conservative than I am. 20% down, 4 year loans, 10% of your pretax monthly income on car expenses such as gas, insurance, your note. This is a very restrictive rule but you will never end up losing a car following it.

We can't tell you what your insurance is going to be, it's geographic and socioeconomic specific. Get quotes for the cars your interested in before shopping.

If you are the sort who can budget out 5 years plus, then a car is a depreciating capital investment. You can count in it losing 90% of it's value somewhere between 10-20 years from now. Depreciated value is money set on fire in pursuit of your car things. So your car price, used or no, is something I personally count on burning up over 10 years. My personal breakpoint following this budgeting turns into the purchase price of a new car should be <50% of my yearly salary.

So that budget is over 10 years, how does that effect a note that's only 4-5 years long? Well your finance choices instead are based on financing and opportunity costs of the money involved. As mentioned, with a unicorn rate the differences in financing cost of a 4 year vs 5 year 21k$ principal is $200, maybe more realistically $300-400. The difference in monthly note will be $90. You're basically paying $300 to have an extra $90 a month. If you have something you need to do with that $90, whether it's investing or other life stuff, then the 5 year loan is fine. If you are liable to buy $90 extra of pizza per month, then the 4 year loan is an easy "investment" to avoid $300 of finance cost and force you to follow a budget that avoids excess spending.

As mentioned there's no downside to paying most loans off early. The truth in loaning document will call out most terms where this isn't the case even without digging into all the small print. But still read everything in a loan. So if you're on the fence about that different monthly note but think you can usually swing that $90 to the payment, and your rates are the same for 4 year vs 5 year, go ahead and get the 5 year.

Generally don't buy anything the dealer is selling. But as far as manufacturer or dealer options focus on things you can appreciate and test during the test drive. A fancy manufacturer widget that is fun but kind of useless? Sure, if you like it. Paint, wheel, upholstery treatments? Nah.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
there's no downside but at current good credit and subsidized rates, paying off early is definitely financially suboptimal. just make sure you aren't underwater on the loan (loan balance higher than current value of car) and you are good to go

NZAmoeba
Feb 14, 2005

It turns out it's MAN!
Hair Elf
Proposed Budget: ~CAD$20,000
New or Used: Used
Body Style: 4 door, something like a Golf
How will you be using the car?: Daily commuter that we want to use for a couple of years. Half hour commute.
What aspects are most important to you? : I live in Montreal and while at work I have a garage to park at, any time I'm visiting somewhere else I'm going to be street parking, and Montreal has some very heavy snow conditions that linger around for days.

Mostly I don't give a poo poo about driving, I just want something comfortable and not stupid, that isn't going to break on me for the 2-3 years I have it. Looking for something only 3-4 years old max, with low kms. And while the snow is an issue, this car is mostly just holding myself in it, so I don't want something big just for that.

NZAmoeba fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Sep 10, 2021

nm
Jan 28, 2008

"I saw Minos the Space Judge holding a golden sceptre and passing sentence upon the Martians. There he presided, and around him the noble Space Prosecutors sought the firm justice of space law."
Prius prius prius.
Even if it is older or has more kms than what you want, it will be way more reliable than like a golf.

NZAmoeba
Feb 14, 2005

It turns out it's MAN!
Hair Elf

nm posted:

Prius prius prius.
Even if it is older or has more kms than what you want, it will be way more reliable than like a golf.

Wasn't expecting that as a suggestion, we are looking to go full electric, but were going to give it a year or two more for the tech and infra to mature out a bit more.

Wife suggested a Golf because she felt it "suits me" but I have no real idea of their reputation beyond it being a recognisable name

DildenAnders
Mar 16, 2016

"I recommend Batman especially, for he tends to transcend the abysmal society in which he's found himself. His morality is rather rigid, also. I rather respect Batman.”
Golf's are generally a great blend of utilitarian and fun, but outside of Europe the weird German over-engineering hurts them a lot. Parts often have to be shipped from Europe, and they can often be super expensive and a huge pain to service yourself (sometimes requiring speciality equipment). They are reliable cars when maintained properly (generally speaking) but maintenance absolutely cannot be deferred and can oftentimes be difficult and expensive. It's a great choice if you're looking to have a fun car that is still very much a daily driver but it has to be taken care of properly. If you're the type of person who doesn't follow the service schedule in the manual to the tee than it's probably not for you. Things like Civics/Accords/Corolllas/Camry's are generally much more tolerable of deferred maintenance, though you lose a bit in driving dynamics. If you don't really give a crap about how a car drives and just want a reliable, efficient appliance of a car, you should just get a Prius of some sort.

NZAmoeba
Feb 14, 2005

It turns out it's MAN!
Hair Elf
Huh, well the wife has always been fastidious about regular servicing on her car, so no issues there. I was always lazy about it, but I was cheap, drove a Toyota, and also haven't owned a car for 10 years.

It seems strange to hear about the parts situation though. Driving around I see far more golfs on the road than prius. I thought that would be a reasonable gauge for how easy it would be to get parts and service etc.?

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

Parts for a regular Golf won't really be an issue. Heck most of them are made in Mexico not Germany anyway. VW is one of the biggest car makers in the world and the Golf is one of their highest volume cars.

Parts on German cars can be more of an issue on rarer, higher end models with low production volume. Not much of a concern on a mass market economy car.

Throatwarbler
Nov 17, 2008

by vyelkin
German car apologists also never stop whining about muh "driving dynamics" as if their 2.slow Golfs with oxcart rear ends are some kind of god gift to handling compared to a Honda Civic, which during that era would have had double wishbone front suspension, IRS, a screaming N/A engine and a segment leading manual trans.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Throatwarbler posted:

German car apologists also never stop whining about muh "driving dynamics" as if their 2.slow Golfs with oxcart rear ends are some kind of god gift to handling compared to a Honda Civic, which during that era would have had double wishbone front suspension, IRS, a screaming N/A engine and a segment leading manual trans.

i feel like the golf's value prop has pretty much always been interior quality and packaging in something decent to drive, not pure driving dynamics

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

NZAmoeba posted:

Wasn't expecting that as a suggestion, we are looking to go full electric, but were going to give it a year or two more for the tech and infra to mature out a bit more.

Wife suggested a Golf because she felt it "suits me" but I have no real idea of their reputation beyond it being a recognisable name

Have you looked into the e-Golf? Go electric and Golf at the same time, should be able to find one in your budget I would think.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Hello everyone. I find myself in a situation where I'm moving across Canada from Toronto to Vancouver in October, and am looking at getting a vehicle that can tow a Uhaul trailer full of my stuff. Once I get there, that vehicle won't be needed, and will either be kept for maybe a year as an occasional use recreational vehicle, or sold for something else. Given the price of renting a Uhaul truck, I can afford to lose several thousand dollars just buying it and selling it on the other end and still come out ahead.
My problem is, I know nothing about good towing vehicles. Decent fuel economy would be nice.
Proposed Budget: up to $20k CAD
New or Used: Used (might consider a two year lease, but that's probably not economical), 2007 or newer, ideally under 150k kms. Definitely under 200k.
Body Style: SUV, maybe pickup? Cargo capacity for the move is important.

I had a 2010 Subaru Forester a few years bakc, and while it could tow, it wasn't great. There are several large hills between here and there. The NA 2.5 would struggle.

Does anyone know anything about ~2010 VW Touareg TDIs? I hate diesels, but sometimes they can make a good case for themselves.

JnnyThndrs
May 29, 2001

HERE ARE THE FUCKING TOWELS
How much stuff do you have? The larger double-axle Uhaul trailers are fairly heavy(about 2Klbs unloaded); if you need that size, youre most likely going to need a full-size pickup/body-on-frame SUV. If you only need the smaller single-axle trailer, you most likely can use a larger crossover.

Be careful when comparing rated tow capacity, many vehicles are(in my opinion) overrated because it looks good in advertising copy, and remember that capacity decreases when loading the tow vehicle with people and cargo. I used to drive big rigs across Canada from Manitoba to Vancouver, and the number of people I saw driving 90km/hr with white knuckles, trailer swaying back and forth, tow vehicle down on its rear bump stops, would surprise you.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Finger Prince posted:

Does anyone know anything about ~2010 VW Touareg TDIs? I hate diesels, but sometimes they can make a good case for themselves.

pros: more reliable than the V10 TDI
cons: everything else

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


JnnyThndrs posted:

How much stuff do you have? The larger double-axle Uhaul trailers are fairly heavy(about 2Klbs unloaded); if you need that size, you’re most likely going to need a full-size pickup/body-on-frame SUV. If you only need the smaller single-axle trailer, you most likely can use a larger crossover.

Be careful when comparing ‘rated tow capacity’, many vehicles are(in my opinion) overrated because it looks good in advertising copy, and remember that capacity decreases when loading the tow vehicle with people and cargo. I used to drive big rigs across Canada from Manitoba to Vancouver, and the number of people I saw driving 90km/hr with white knuckles, trailer swaying back and forth, tow vehicle down on it’s rear bump stops, would surprise you.

Boxes, mainly. Not much in the way of furniture. Nothing particularly heavy, volume will be the driving factor for trailer size. I'm hoping I can get away with a 5x8 single axle plus what fits in the tow vehicle, but might need to go to the 6x12 dual axle one. I'll know once I'm packed! I'll be driving solo for most of the trip, and not hell bent on making the best time possible. 6-7 days should cover it.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

pros: more reliable than the V10 TDI
cons: everything else

Yeah I don't know what I was expecting but that sounds about right.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Sounds like your best bet is to buy a 26 ft cargo truck and not bother with the trailer all together. But I question the logic of doing this instead of hiring a moving storage service like Pods. Or simply renting the 26' truck from a rental agency like U-Haul and leaving it at the destination. Unless you can somehow buy below market value and sell for more later, the entire plan hinges on you selling it at a certain price point.

Throatwarbler
Nov 17, 2008

by vyelkin

Nitrox posted:

Sounds like your best bet is to buy a 26 ft cargo truck and not bother with the trailer all together. But I question the logic of doing this instead of hiring a moving storage service like Pods. Or simply renting the 26' truck from a rental agency like U-Haul and leaving it at the destination. Unless you can somehow buy below market value and sell for more later, the entire plan hinges on you selling it at a certain price point.

Surely you need a CDL for a 26 ft truck

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

Throatwarbler posted:

Surely you need a CDL for a 26 ft truck
Guess again! If it's under 26,000 lbs, you're good to go

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



loving geico called me to tell me they stopped payment on my collision check (literally it was in my god drat hands and was going to the bank) because toyota wrote them a letter that says my payoff is $200 more than what it really is. and another $200 payment just processed today so it's really overpaid by $400. everybody are just total morons in this business

getting a call from geico at 4:30 pm on a loving Monday to let me know they stopped my check I waited 29 days for and will be taking another $200 from my side and cutting a new check...I almost lost my poo poo on the phone. Anyways, how do I find an actually good insurance company.

My salesman is pushing a TRD pro on me because that's somehow more available than a trd off road but yeah.. $10k more for some wheels and shocks.. ugh no

ethanol fucked around with this message at 13:42 on Sep 14, 2021

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

Nitrox posted:

Guess again! If it's under 26,000 lbs, you're good to go

Bingo! $39.95 and a drivers license and youre good to go. Want even more fun? You can tow a vehicle on a full size vehicle trailer behind one and add another 7,000 pounds and 15+ feet of length to the experience.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Sorry to hear about that. I would ask them to transfer money directly instead of fiddling with checks.

As for insurance shopping, I would look into a local agency that is not tied to a specific company. They shop around across multiple insurers and get you deals that you may not be aware of. I've been using an agent for 15 years now, and they shop around every time my policies get renewed. And in the end my personal vehicles, my home insurance, my recreational stuff, business insurance and commercial vehicles are under different policies because the agent did all the legwork, and picked the best policy for each. But the actual results will differ from person to person and rely on many factors.

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Nitrox posted:

Sorry to hear about that. I would ask them to transfer money directly instead of fiddling with checks.


Oh believe me, I did, but their EFT payment site gives you two warning less attempts to get your verification information correct or it automatically sends a paper check. that's what happened the first time. they said they would issue a new payment by the end of yesterday but of course, no where to be found.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Nitrox posted:

Sounds like your best bet is to buy a 26 ft cargo truck and not bother with the trailer all together. But I question the logic of doing this instead of hiring a moving storage service like Pods. Or simply renting the 26' truck from a rental agency like U-Haul and leaving it at the destination. Unless you can somehow buy below market value and sell for more later, the entire plan hinges on you selling it at a certain price point.

A small Uhaul cube van is minimum $3500 one way. Add a car trailer for my Prius and about grand in gas and I'm in for at least $5k and I get a car on the other side. A mover wants $6k just to show up, and I still have to drive across. If I swap the Prius for a SUV, a trailer costs $1500, I burn probably a third less gas, I still have a practical vehicle on the other side (even if it isn't as fuel efficient as the Prius - doesn't matter since it won't see much use). If I lose a couple of grand on what I pay for it come time to sell, that's still a better deal than just handing Uhaul or a mover $5-6k. If I can sell it for more or less what I pay for it, that's essentially a free move (minus gas and accommodations).
Also, can't do moving pods as I live in a downtown condo.

Internet Explorer
Jun 1, 2005





I'm sure it depends on the city, but in my experience you can get a permit to park it in the street for a few days. If not, the pods can also be held at their warehouse and depending on how far of a drive that is, you could rent a truck and unload from there then take the truck to your apartment. We did that and while it was a pain to do an extra step of loading/unloading, it gave us a lot of flexibility during the move that made it worth it. Just something to think about.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Internet Explorer posted:

I'm sure it depends on the city, but in my experience you can get a permit to park it in the street for a few days. If not, the pods can also be held at their warehouse and depending on how far of a drive that is, you could rent a truck and unload from there then take the truck to your apartment. We did that and while it was a pain to do an extra step of loading/unloading, it gave us a lot of flexibility during the move that made it worth it. Just something to think about.

I had considered that option, but that extra step in the logistics of this move really is difficult given the time restraints I'm under. There's no way I can get a pod plopped somewhere nearby for a couple of days. I do have a couple of other options worth exploring for the move, but that's a topic for another thread. I just want to know what sort of high quality tow vehicles would be suitable for this purpose and then see what from those options is for sale locally that matches the my budget.

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer

ethanol posted:

loving geico called me to tell me they stopped payment on my collision check (literally it was in my god drat hands and was going to the bank) because toyota wrote them a letter that says my payoff is $200 more than what it really is. and another $200 payment just processed today so it's really overpaid by $400. everybody are just total morons in this business

getting a call from geico at 4:30 pm on a loving Monday to let me know they stopped my check I waited 29 days for and will be taking another $200 from my side and cutting a new check...I almost lost my poo poo on the phone. Anyways, how do I find an actually good insurance company.

My salesman is pushing a TRD pro on me because that's somehow more available than a trd off road but yeah.. $10k more for some wheels and shocks.. ugh no

I went with State Farm only because supposedly* they are better about paying out than other insurance cos. I suspect in the end they're all extremely the same bullshit but if anyone has any insight, that'd be great.

*according to reddit users /u/dasingularity420 and /u/blazemontana69

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


I guess rather than "suggest a car" advice, what I really want to know is something like is a Rav4 going to do the job, or am I going to want something like a 4runner (or equivalent)? If it's a pickup, can I get away with a mid-size, or am I going to need a full-size? I'd like to avoid a huge V8 full size truck, so what are the models to look for in the smaller yet spacious, tow capable trucks? No need for 3rd row seats or any family friendly stuff, and a better, more comfortable space than the cab of a cube van to spend a week in would sure be nice.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
it all depends on how much poo poo you have, if it's just a 1 ton trailer you can get by with something lighter and smaller. you probably want a bit more vehicle if you get above that very smallest trailer size.

you're also going a long way and with some elevation so more power and more wheelbase will make your life better

KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


I would just get a half ton bof whatever-I-could-find (which won't be easy these days) and sell it when I got there because truck prices are hosed.

And you could find a hell of a worse place to spend a week than the cab of a modern F-150 or equivalent.

KillHour fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Sep 14, 2021

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



if you're ok with a lower trim pickup it's actually pretty easy to find. I've seen tons of Tacoma SR5s, f150 XLs. basically anything without technology packages that require chips (I'm guessing).

edit: also if you don't even want a v8 and end up with a full size it's easier to find smaller engines new, but I don't know about used since most people do buy the v8.

And easier is relative, it will still be slim pickings, but not impossible 3-4 month waiting like I'm doing for a TRD offroad

I bought a month of consumer reports and that's what's makes me stop considering domestic trucks. The reliability still looks piss poor, and anecdotally, the domestic trucks at work all have issues. Some of them are brand new!

I'm pretty sure pickup market wins the award for most hosed up, but probably up for debate

ethanol fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Sep 14, 2021

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

I agree with getting the half ton truck. There are some vehicles out there that are rated to tow 5K pounds, but I probably wouldn't want to do it. It's going to depend on how big and heavy of a trailer.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
what's the opposition to a V8 anyway? it'll be a bit thirstier but realistically not that much, and they tend to be in higher demand when you go sell em

v8 :911: half ton will do very nicely and if it's pretty new, the interiors are quite good except the silverado and even then its not bad

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





JnnyThndrs posted:

How much stuff do you have? The larger double-axle Uhaul trailers are fairly heavy(about 2Klbs unloaded); if you need that size, youre most likely going to need a full-size pickup/body-on-frame SUV. If you only need the smaller single-axle trailer, you most likely can use a larger crossover.

Be careful when comparing rated tow capacity, many vehicles are(in my opinion) overrated because it looks good in advertising copy, and remember that capacity decreases when loading the tow vehicle with people and cargo. I used to drive big rigs across Canada from Manitoba to Vancouver, and the number of people I saw driving 90km/hr with white knuckles, trailer swaying back and forth, tow vehicle down on its rear bump stops, would surprise you.

Quoting this with extra emphasis added. Tow ratings are only half the story, the other is GCVWR. There are a lot of vehicles out there where if you are at maximum tow, the only weight allowed in the tow vehicle is the driver.

The other thing to account for here is that while financially this may seem like a no-brainer, this is not without risk. One of my brothers did this on a recent interstate move, where he was moving from one state back to home for a short time, and then back out to another state. He bought a cheap Transit Connect because all his stuff fit in it. It made the first leg of the move, but the transmission started making GBS threads the bed and it clearly wasn't going to survive the second leg. So it got sold at a loss and he ended up renting a UHaul anyway, though I think he conned our mom into driving it back so it counted as an "in town" rental.

If you're comfortable accepting that risk, I agree that a half ton truck, or a similar full-frame SUV, is the right tool for this job. The newer/less miles you can go, the less likely it is you're going to have a failure like that during your ownership. You aren't going to own it long enough for the fuel mileage to be a problem after the move and that's the only place where a used $15-20k fullsize truck is going to be way behind compared to a $50k+ new truck.

You could get away with certain midsize trucks, but the best midsize trucks at towing are a) still not as capable as a typical fullsize, b) rare, c) out of your budget.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll see what there is in big and biggish truck land. Hopefully with a cap or locking tonneau so that roaming beavers and vagrants don't rob me of my precious antique cans while I'm staying at the Four Seasons Lower Saskabush.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

what's the opposition to a V8 anyway? it'll be a bit thirstier but realistically not that much, and they tend to be in higher demand when you go sell em

v8 :911: half ton will do very nicely and if it's pretty new, the interiors are quite good except the silverado and even then its not bad

Yeah, fuel ecomomy is the biggest part of it. If I'm getting the same fuel economy as a cube van, the numbers start making less sense. Plus given the price of gas in BC, keeping it for a while or finding someone who doesn't care is less of an attractive proposition (although I guess I could try selling it to Albertans). Also keep in mind, I drive a Prius right now. I can deal with doubling my fuel consumption for daily use, maybe triple, but quadruple is enough to make me balk.

Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Sep 14, 2021

amethystbliss
Jan 17, 2006

In the market for a car for my son. He's almost 20 and drives a lot every day. He commutes to work, school, his trade school apprenticeship sites, and sometimes picks up his sibling from school activities a few towns over. His old car kicked the bucket a few weeks ago, and the search for a decent used car has been hell. Just last night we returned a used 2018 Subaru Impreza Hatchback we got from Carmax because it erupted in smoke and left him stranded on the side of the road. Their service center was a joke so we just got our money back using their 30 day return policy. Back to square one.

Proposed Budget: $25k max, looking for most economical option that's reasonable given circumstances
New or Used: Either. Used makes more sense given his age, but seems we can get brand new for a minimal price difference without worrying about its history?
Body Style: Sedan or Hatchback. He prefers hatchback.
How will you be using the car?: Daily commute of about 30-40 miles/day
Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?): Nope, base model is fine though CarPlay is a nice bonus
What aspects are most important to you?: Safe. Reliable. Winter performance. Leaning AWD but open to a car that's good in the winter with some snow tires.
Other factors: He's almost 6'4 with long legs. We live in New England so must be reliable in the snow. Looking for something he can own for many years to come.

Leaning new Subaru Impreza hatchback base model since it's AWD and he really liked it for the 5 days we owned it. He hated test driving the Nissan Rogue. He surprised us by loving the Chevy Sonic but doesn't seem like a great option for winter. Also considering a Honda Civic with snow tires. Open to any other suggestions.

amethystbliss fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Sep 14, 2021

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Prius

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dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer

amethystbliss posted:

Just last night we returned a used 2018 Subaru Impreza Hatchback we got from Carmax because it erupted in smoke and left him stranded on the side of the road. Their service center was a joke so we just got our money back using their 30 day return policy. Back to square one.

What the gently caress

Did it have no coolant at all and your kid drove it in the red for hours or something? How does a 2018 car with that bad of an issue survive even the most basic quality check?

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