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DoctorTristan
Mar 11, 2006

I would look up into your lifeless eyes and wave, like this. Can you and your associates arrange that for me, Mr. Morden?
Been considering an upgrade for a while, as my 2014 i5 is now starting to creak a bit and I feel like treating myself. Main use cases are a mixture of gaming and some data science workflows (not too intensive as I do the heavy lifting in AWS).

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor (£242.31 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49 CFM CPU Cooler (£39.98 @ Overclockers.co.uk) (already owned)
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-E GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard (£185.99 @ Box Limited)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory (£100.75 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£123.44 @ Technextday)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB FTW2 GAMING iCX Video Card (already owned)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 Compact ATX Mid Tower Case (£93.84 @ Clove Technology)
Power Supply: EVGA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£85.47 @ Scan.co.uk) (already owned)
Total: £871.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-09-11 19:33 BST+0100

For the motherboard I wanted USB C front headers and an intel LAN controller, might have ended up overpaying a bit here as it's difficult to filter on those. I opted for the samsung drive over the OP-recommended WD blue after WD were caught sneakily downgrading the components in that drive, so have to assume its relative performance has deteriorated.

Reusing my existing power supply as it's still got 4 years left on a 7 year warranty. PCPartPicker is warning that my motherboard has an additional 4-pin ATX header - am I right that this connector is only needed for the high power draws from extreme overclocking? (not planning to overclock).

Also planning to reuse my existing cooler - the H7 was a thread favourite a few years ago but seems to have fallen out of favour a little. Is it still competitive, or should I be looking at the Noctua D15 or Scythe Fuma 2?

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mA
Jul 10, 2001
I am the ugly lover.

Seyser Koze posted:

I started messing around with Newegg's custom PC builder after Dr. Video Games' earlier post. This would be my first desktop in about 15 years, for gaming, game development, and amateur 3D modeling.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($739.00 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($89.96 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 AORUS PRO AC ATX AM4 Motherboard ($194.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($127.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3080 10 GB AORUS XTREME Video Card
Case: Lian Li Lancool II Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2021) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($146.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($108.78 @ Other World Computing)
Total: $1727.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-09-11 13:02 EDT-0400

Monitor still to be determined. Newegg has the 3080 listed at $1129, which may or may not still be there whenever I get around to actually placing an order. We'll see. Assuming I'm not concerned about the price aside from trying not to get gouged too hard on a GPU, is there anything glaringly missing/wasted/incompatible on here?

EDIT: specifically, I don't really know poo poo about motherboards to an even greater degree than I don't know poo poo about other hardware

I suggest go with a different AIB model for the 3080. Gigabyte's RMA process is pretty terrible (months long wait times w/o communication, arbitrary warranty cancellations, etc). It's even worse right now since they were recently hacked. Customer service never seems like a big deal until something goes wrong with the card and you have to deal with an obstinate CSR. I'd lean towards EVGA in that respect for long term customer service and their models tend to be less expensive than other AIBs.

mA fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Sep 11, 2021

FizFashizzle
Mar 30, 2005







has anyone figured out the cheapest build to play the new ffxiv expansion with decent graphics?

my girlfriend saw the trailer and wants to get back in.

Seyser Koze
Dec 15, 2013

Mucho Mucho
Nap Ghost

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

You can save some cash by going 5900x over the 5950x. The 5950x is kind of positioned as a chip to make the 5900x price point seem reasonable. The 5950x is better, and your use case will probably see some benefit, but IMO it’s not worth the premium over the 5900x.

Outside of some weird specific reason (or a huge cost delta) don’t buy 2x 1TB drives. This’ll just double your cost when you want to expand later.

Echoing you should be looking for 3600@CL-16 ram. If you’ve not reached your max budget yet, that’s where I’d flesh out the build.

Again, if you’re not at max budget, you’d probably get some genuine benefit from a high end 360mm (maybe a 240mm) AIO. The 5950x gets absurdly hot. This all applies if you get the 5900x too.

Buy a windows key from lodge north in SA mart.

Are you gonna do any OC? 850w is a little light for a build like that where you are gonna do some OC. If not 850w Is probably fine.

Some of these are down to the builder. Right now at least it offers 5950x but not 5900x, won't let me pick a 2TB SSD that isn't a Samsung, and doesn't seem to offer any 360mm coolers. This is after starting a new list without a GPU, so I don't think it's because of the GPU bug that was mentioned.

I was not planning to do any overclocking, since I don't really know where to start with that.

Edit: How hard is it to add a cooler to an already-built system?

Seyser Koze fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Sep 11, 2021

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Seyser Koze posted:

Some of these are down to the builder. Right now at least it offers 5950x but not 5900x, won't let me pick a 2TB SSD that isn't a Samsung, and doesn't seem to offer any 360mm coolers. This is after starting a new list without a GPU, so I don't think it's because of the GPU bug that was mentioned.

I was not planning to do any overclocking, since I don't really know where to start with that.

Edit: How hard is it to add a cooler to an already-built system?

depends entirely on the system but usually not impossible but non-trivially difficult if you've never installed a CPU before. nothing you couldn't watch good and extensive youtubes on tho, better coolers and brands tend to offer them.

sfwarlock
Aug 11, 2007

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

It's the year of our Lord 2021 and Cooler Master is releasing a new case with a 5-1/2 inch drive bay: https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/cases/mid-tower/elite-500/

I know there must be at least one of you out there excited by this.

I personally am a fan of those 5.25" bay combination cardreader/USB hubs. That one needs more USB3s though.

FizFashizzle posted:

has anyone figured out the cheapest build to play the new ffxiv expansion with decent graphics?

my girlfriend saw the trailer and wants to get back in.

Depends on your resolution. My ancient i5-6600k with a 1070 scores "VERY HIGH" on the official benchmark, and ingame pushes 60fps 99% of the time at 1440p with no problem and all the settings at max.

EDIT FOR COMEDY ANSWER: I took this to my crew and they pointed out that probably the cheapest way to "spend money, play Endwalker" is a PS5.

sfwarlock fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Sep 11, 2021

Seyser Koze
Dec 15, 2013

Mucho Mucho
Nap Ghost

mA posted:

I suggest go with a different AIB model for the 3080. Gigabyte's RMA process is pretty terrible (months long wait times w/o communication, arbitrary warranty cancellations, etc). It's even worse right now since they were recently hacked. Customer service never seems like a big deal until something goes wrong with the card and you have to deal with an obstinate CSR. I'd lean towards EVGA in that respect for long term customer service and their models tend to be less expensive than other AIBs.

it's academic anyway since the gigabyte 3080 just disappeared from stock :v:

I assume this goes for the Gigabyte motherboard as well?

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Seyser Koze posted:

Some of these are down to the builder. Right now at least it offers 5950x but not 5900x, won't let me pick a 2TB SSD that isn't a Samsung, and doesn't seem to offer any 360mm coolers. This is after starting a new list without a GPU, so I don't think it's because of the GPU bug that was mentioned.

I was not planning to do any overclocking, since I don't really know where to start with that.

Edit: How hard is it to add a cooler to an already-built system?

Oh I missed the part about this being the builder.

The AIO will mostly come down to the case that’s used.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

sfwarlock posted:


EDIT FOR COMEDY ANSWER: I took this to my crew and they pointed out that probably the cheapest way to "spend money, play Endwalker" is a PS5.

not at all. I suspect the cheaper new Xbox gets her in even cheaper, and since afaik it's still running last gen a PS4 or something probably would be the most dirt cheap.

Unsinkabear
Jun 8, 2013

Ensign, raise the beariscope.





FFXIV is PC or Playstation only.

On a related note:

What country are you in? USA
What are you using the system for? Shitposting, work, and gaming (currently playing Chivalry, Deep Rock Galactic, and FFXIV, but would like to experience more modern things like Control in pretty mode as well)
What's your budget? Originally wanted to keep it around $800, but with no i5-11400s available at MSRP a hardcore budget build wasn't really possible so it has expanded to $1000ish. The GPU is being purchased from a friend and the parts that are in there at $0 I already have.
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? 1920x1200, 60hz. I assume the 2070 is overkill for this and I should upgrade further down the line to get the most out of it. I don't really play serious business competitive games anymore, so idk if going to a 144hz monitor would change my life. Maybe 1440p?
If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? Everything I do is online SaaS stuff or in Excel/Word, so most of the time my only work demand is that I have dozens of tabs up that can't be closed or I'll forget wtf I'm doing. I would like to be able to keep these open and minimized without Chrome's memory hog habits getting in the way of gaming performance, but other than that I think my work needs are pretty light.

Please tell me what I did wrong here, and if there's anywhere I should step it up (or could shave off some bucks). I really struggled on the case because this will be front and center in my cramped apartment living room and needs to be smallish (not SFF, just not a huge ATX monstrosity) and ideally white, which really limited my choices. I know mesh fronts are the new hotness, but I couldn't find anything that checked all three boxes (mesh, white, small). I did find praise for the 205M earlier in the thread so hopefully there is either another option I missed, or its airflow is enough.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($272.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Scythe FUMA 2 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B550M Steel Legend Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($134.85 @ Amazon)
Memory: Team T-FORCE DARK Za 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($0.00)
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB STRIX GAMING OC Video Card ($400.00)
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 205M MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($79.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.90 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Dell U2415 24.1" 1920x1200 60 Hz Monitor ($0.00)
Total: $1067.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-09-11 22:58 EDT-0400

Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Sep 12, 2021

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
seems pretty good and yeah total overkill for 1080p 60, you could quite comfortably go to hundreds of FPS at 1080 in most of the titles you want them in. 1440p 60 monitors are pretty inexpensive too although hrm it might still not be able to push that in ultra in SOME titles. not most though.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Not enough RGB.

And your memory speed is a little low, you probably want to push for 3200 MHz if not 3600 MHz.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
until you upgrade your monitor if you wanted to save a buck you could buy a secondhand 3600 of some flavour off eBay or something and could plan an upgrade to a 5600 or whatever else AMD releases before they retire the am4 socket imminently. I understand there are a ton of them on the secondhand in many regions for how many of the drat things they've sold.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

I don't like the look of the Lancool 205's airflow capabilities. Solid front panel, and the intakes have a bad material to hole ratio. Allow me to suggest the Silverstone SST-PS15W-G as an alternative (hell of a name, btw). You'll need to grab a couple aftermarket fans to slap in the front, but you'd have to get at least one more for the Lancool anyway to overcome that limited intake. I can't vouch for build quality of the case, but Silverstone is generally decent and the airflow should be much better, keeping your PC cooler and quieter.

For fans, I would use two of these in the front: https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooli...&quicklink=true

edit: there's a white version too, apparently: https://www.newegg.com/p/1YF-0019-000C6?Description=arctic%20p12&cm_re=arctic_p12-_-1YF-0019-000C6-_-Product

Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Sep 12, 2021

Unsinkabear
Jun 8, 2013

Ensign, raise the beariscope.





PittTheElder posted:

your memory speed is a little low, you probably want to push for 3200 MHz if not 3600 MHz.

Swapped for 3600, that was accidental. Thank you for catching that!

CoolCab posted:

until you upgrade your monitor if you wanted to save a buck you could buy a secondhand 3600 of some flavour off eBay or something and could plan an upgrade to a 5600 or whatever else AMD releases before they retire the am4 socket imminently.

Looks like the going rate on Ebay US is $150-200 plus $5-10 shipping, so call it $180. That seems like an alright option. Are either the socket change or the 5600whatever things I should be trying to wait for if possible? It wouldn't be my first choice but I do have the option of buying that card from my friend and just sitting on it.

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

I don't like the look of the Lancool 205's airflow capabilities. Solid front panel, and the intakes have a bad material to hole ratio. Allow me to suggest the Silverstone SST-PS15W-G as an alternative (hell of a name, btw). You'll need to grab a couple aftermarket fans to slap in the front, but you'd have to get at least one more for the Lancool anyway to overcome that limited intake. I can't vouch for build quality of the case, but Silverstone is generally decent and the airflow should be much better, keeping your PC cooler and quieter.

For fans, I would use two of these in the front: https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooli...&quicklink=true

edit: there's a white version too, apparently: https://www.newegg.com/p/1YF-0019-000C6?Description=arctic%20p12&cm_re=arctic_p12-_-1YF-0019-000C6-_-Product

Hell yes, thank you. I love the look of this (the idiot-proof bumpers on the glass section are a nice touch) and matching white fans are icing on the cake. This should hopefully just disappear into the corner. :swoon:


I have two additional dumb questions:
- Should I care that this ASRock board doesn't have Bios Flashback, or am I safe to assume it will be compatible with the 5600 at this point?
- PCPartPicker is warning me that the board has an additional 4-pin ATX power connector for 12V power, but the PSU does not. But every PSU I've tried swapping it for gives the same warning. Is there a way to filter for this, or should I just try another board? I was looking for something with a modern outputs and a USB-C slot so I could expand if I ran out of A slots, but that limits the choices and I didn't think about having two extras on the front of the case.

Takes No Damage
Nov 20, 2004

The most merciful thing in the world, I think, is the inability of the human mind to correlate all its contents. We live on a placid island of ignorance in the midst of black seas of infinity, and it was not meant that we should voyage far.


Grimey Drawer

FizFashizzle posted:

has anyone figured out the cheapest build to play the new ffxiv expansion with decent graphics?

my girlfriend saw the trailer and wants to get back in.


(I am also on the left in this analogy)

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Unsinkabear posted:

Hell yes, thank you. I love the look of this (the idiot-proof bumpers on the glass section are a nice touch) and matching white fans are icing on the cake. This should hopefully just disappear into the corner. :swoon:

Actually poo poo, abort, abort! Max GPU clearance is in that case is 314mm without a front fan. Fans are 25mm thick usually (including the ones I linked). I looked up that 2070's length, and it's 300mm. I don't know how the fan slots work out, if there's enough room to simply slot in the fans above and below the GPU. It looks like it supports up to 2 140mm fans in the front, which means there's potentially a 40mm gap when using two 120s, but that card is also more than 40mm thick. Going without one or both fans would probably be a bad idea, so I don't think that case is going to work out. Sorry for the bad suggestion.

edit: I double checked the 205M, and that one will be compatible with some room to spare it looks like. The airflow style isn't my favorite but it's probably good enough, just not ideal. Make sure to put in a second fan in the front for sure, though.

Another case I've investigated and seems potentially pretty decent is the darkFlash DLM21 MicroATX Mesh. It has adequate GPU clearance and airflow that looks pretty good. However, the white version is out of stock everywhere it seems.

edit 2: alternatively you wait for this to hit the market (there will be a white version): https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/lian-li-o11-air-mini-review

Should be soon, lian li just lifted a review embargo. It's more expensive than the 205M but at least it comes with three fans. It's also wider than a mid tower, but shorter and shallower. I really love the glass box look of the original design, but I have a feeling that the Mini Air will be an extremely strong performer.

Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 12:51 on Sep 12, 2021

change my name
Aug 27, 2007

Legends die but anime is forever.

RIP The Lost Otakus.

change my name posted:

I previously stuck a 1050 ti in my friend's crappy HP office prebuilt as a birthday present but she now wants me to build her a whole new (budget) system for 1080p gaming so I slapped this together from leftover pieces of my own build and a cheap Ryzen CPU I found on Ebay. It's the refreshed 12 nm Ryzen 5 1600 that's comparable with the 2600, so I'm assuming this is good to go for the foreseeable future and she can just upgrade the GPU when prices level off?

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 (12nm) 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $130.00)
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports CPU Cooler (Purchased For $29.31)
Motherboard: MSI B450 Gaming Plus MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $98.00)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (Purchased For $60.00)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (Purchased For $99.99)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card (Purchased For $188.00)
Case: NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $70.00)
Power Supply: EVGA B5 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $44.99)
Total: $720.29

Word of warning, don't buy refurbed CPU coolers on Amazon. I saved $10 on the "like new" cooler above and the fins at 5-6 of the 8 corners on the tower stack are bent/crumpled and the whole thing is twisting slightly. I don't think performance will be too impacted but it looks like rear end.

Update: well, it's idling in the low 30s, so I guess it's okay for now. Still looks bad though

change my name fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Sep 12, 2021

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Takes No Damage posted:


(I am also on the left in this analogy)

I swapped my 7 year old GPU (760) for a 5 year old one (980). :suicide:

sfwarlock
Aug 11, 2007

CoolCab posted:

not at all. I suspect the cheaper new Xbox gets her in even cheaper, and since afaik it's still running last gen a PS4 or something probably would be the most dirt cheap.

They just added PS5 support with 4K and &c. I was thinking futureproofing since at some point they'll end PS4 support.

EDIT: Also I am sort of in that analogy too.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Takes No Damage posted:


(I am also on the left in this analogy)

Lmao.

Going in the OP.

Seyser Koze
Dec 15, 2013

Mucho Mucho
Nap Ghost

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

Oh I missed the part about this being the builder.

The AIO will mostly come down to the case that’s used.

Yeah, I went back to tinker with the builder again today and was able to get a 360 if I started with just the CPU. The builder seems very finicky about the order you put stuff in.

Anyway, I swapped things around a bit in response to your and CoolCab's comments. Still sticking with the 5950x, added a 360mm cooler, 3600 memory, a single 2TB SSD, and a bigger power source. The power supply was the only one available above 850 without jumping into the 1200+ range.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($749.00 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML360R RGB 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($144.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($181.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg)
GPU: lol
Storage: Western Digital SN750 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($269.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P500A D-RGB ATX Mid Tower Case ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS GX 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($179.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1829.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-09-12 15:49 EDT-0400

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

The newegg builder is buggy and finicky, yeah. Put in the GPU last though, and make sure that "Need Assembly Service?" isn't checked, and you can put in anything, even a 5900X... but then I just checked and it's out of stock at newegg? Maybe it's worth waiting for it to come back in stock if you don't need those extra 4 cores.

Seyser Koze
Dec 15, 2013

Mucho Mucho
Nap Ghost
I decided to stick with the 5950x since I have the budget for it. :shrug:

It looks like 3080s are pretty much guaranteed to be Hot Items, in which case I'll be forced to use the Assembly Service option. It'll probably be a couple weeks before I'm pulling the trigger anyway if I'm waiting for a 3080 to become available.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
You can keep entering the Newegg shuffle to see what bullshit congo you win! I finally got a 3080, but also got a Z590 motherboard, so I guess I'm watching black Friday sales for parts.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Seyser Koze posted:

Yeah, I went back to tinker with the builder again today and was able to get a 360 if I started with just the CPU. The builder seems very finicky about the order you put stuff in.

Anyway, I swapped things around a bit in response to your and CoolCab's comments. Still sticking with the 5950x, added a 360mm cooler, 3600 memory, a single 2TB SSD, and a bigger power source. The power supply was the only one available above 850 without jumping into the 1200+ range.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($749.00 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML360R RGB 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($144.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($181.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg)
GPU: lol
Storage: Western Digital SN750 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($269.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P500A D-RGB ATX Mid Tower Case ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS GX 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($179.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1829.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-09-12 15:49 EDT-0400

All good except the ram is CL18. If you can get CL16 that’s much better.

Seyser Koze
Dec 15, 2013

Mucho Mucho
Nap Ghost

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

All good except the ram is CL18. If you can get CL16 that’s much better.

Thanks. Swapped for:
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($189.99 @ Newegg)

Xun
Apr 25, 2010

Well, dunno how well this will go. Noticed that a vendor has some 3060s in stock and I've been considering an upgrade. Problem is I am totally braindead and do not have the energy to sift through all these marketing words so I would appreciate some advice! Other than the graphics card I'm looking for something with a beefy CPU.

Location: Sweden

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor (kr2922.00 @ Amazon Sweden)
CPU Cooler: Dunno, I prefer watercoolers because they're quiet but I've had a hell of a time getting them to fit in cases because I'm bad so :shrug:
Motherboard: Dunno
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory (kr803.13 @ Amazon Sweden)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory (kr803.13 @ Amazon Sweden) (I already own one set of these in my current build, not sure if I can/should reuse them)
Storage: 2x 1TB SSDs and a 250gb M2 SSD that I already own
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8GB GAMING Z TRIO LHR ? The store also has some MSI GeForce RTX 3060 12GB GAMING Z TRIOs in stock and I cannot tell the difference other than the fact that TIs are slightly better. They have way more TIs in stock than the other, is there a particular reason why?
Case: I currently have one of the Fractal cases, looks like a Define R5. Wouldn't mind a new case though
Power Supply: Currently have an overkill corsair 1000W one

Any advice on what I should fill in the missing bits with or replace?

Xun fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Sep 13, 2021

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

The 3060 Ti is quite a bit better than the 3060, around 25 to 30% better. The regular 3060 can run everything out right now maxed out without raytracing at 1080p, but a few of the most demanding(/least optimized) games will still bring your average FPS very close to 60. The 3060 Ti gives itself a decent bit of headroom at 1080p, and it can handle 1440p decently well in many games. It'll hold onto its relevance for longer than the regular 3060, but the regular one can still hold its own quite well for now.

Ultimately, it comes down to price and the specs of your monitor. If the 3060 Ti doesn't cost much more than the regular 3060, get the Ti. And if you have a 1440p monitor, you'll really want the Ti over the regular.

Reusing your memory is fine. There's faster memory available now, but I dunno how big of a difference it would really make. Like, I actually don't know. It seems like it's not the kind of thing that'd make a big difference though.

Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Sep 13, 2021

Salean
Mar 17, 2004

Homewrecker

I'm putting together a new machine, which was originally going to use a 5600x but there's a bundle available for a 3080 and the 5900x so I hastily threw those into this build. I'm looking for input on everything, but in particular the cooler, motherboard, ram, ssd, and psu choices.

I'm located in Canada, I'm not constrained by a particular budget, and the machine was meant for games at 1440p with high fps
I was thinking about using an AIO instead of the CM 212, but I don't know enough about them to make a choice yet.
The motherboard was meant for a 5600x so I'm not sure if it would be enough for the 5900x, or if there is a better board for the faster chip. I don't want to bottleneck myself
I chose 4 sticks of ram based on the gamersnexus videos about the 5600x running better with 4 sticks, I'm negotiable on changing that just to 2x8 if it wont matter, but I still want fast ram and I'd like 32gb
I threw a random ssd in, please suggest better picks. I figured that a 750w psu would be enough based on pcpartpickers estimation.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor ($715.50 @ shopRBC)
CPU Cooler: Scythe FUMA 2 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI MPG B550 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($291.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($190.75 @ shopRBC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 10 GB FTW3 ULTRA GAMING Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.90 @ Vuugo)
Power Supply: EVGA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($154.71 @ iSanek)
Monitor: Gigabyte M27Q 27.0" 2560x1440 170 Hz Monitor ($369.99 @ Amazon Canada)

edited: to reflect the couple changes from Dr. Video Games 0031. I totally meant to have a b550 board in there. Thanks for pointing it out!

Salean fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Sep 13, 2021

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

750W can generally handle the 3080 just fine. Filling up your memory slots is usually (but not always) better for a variety of esoteric reasons, but most pertinently memory ranks. The cost difference between 4x and 2x for the same total capacity is negligible, so I'd just go with a 4x kit. Especially if you don't plan on upgrading capacity down the road (32GB is plenty).

The changes I'd make are the cooler, motherboard, and SSD. Modern desktop computers aren't really built to take great advantage of the capabilities of a high-speed NVMe. Lower-speed NVMe drives like the Western Digital SN550 perform almost identically in most regular windows tasks and in game loading, so I'd just go with that. On the other hand, I'd upgrade your motherboard and cooler. The 212 is a great value cooler for 65W chips, but I don't know if I'd trust it with a higher TDP chip like the 5900X. The Scythe Fuma 2 is the current popular mid-budget cooling solution, and it can handle the 5900X unless you're heavily overclocking it or something. And for the motherboard, a B550 board would be a better mid-budget pick for a Ryzen 5000-series CPU. There are a lot of those that are the same price or less than the B450 board you picked, such as this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B089CRF5XV?tag=pcp0f-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

edit: the B550 chipset supports PCIe Gen 4 while the B450 does not. This isn't hugely important right now (you get a few percent more FPS on a 3080 currently, so barely perceptible), but it may become more important down the road if you stick with the CPU and motherboard. May as well buy a newer board for the same price.

Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Sep 13, 2021

Unsinkabear
Jun 8, 2013

Ensign, raise the beariscope.





Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

alternatively you wait for this to hit the market (there will be a white version): https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/lian-li-o11-air-mini-review

Should be soon, lian li just lifted a review embargo. It's more expensive than the 205M but at least it comes with three fans. It's also wider than a mid tower, but shorter and shallower. I really love the glass box look of the original design, but I have a feeling that the Mini Air will be an extremely strong performer.

Thanks for the save! This one's probably best, still low-ish visual weight while giving me more mobo options through atx. Stout shape is cute and USB-C on the front is nice too. Any idea how soon is soon™?

With that and the updates from everyone's comments, I'm here:
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($272.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Scythe FUMA 2 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B550-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($0.00)
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB STRIX GAMING OC Video Card ($400.00)
Case: This bad boy ($110)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GA 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Dell U2415 24.1" 1920x1200 60 Hz Monitor ($0.00)
Total: $1122.95

Still not sure if I should go for the 5600 now, or get a used 3600 as CoolCab suggested and save $100 until either AMD releases the next big chip or I'm ready to monitor upgrade.

Also still feeling a little iffy about buying into a chipset at end of life, but c'est la vie I guess?

Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 10:21 on Sep 13, 2021

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Unsinkabear posted:


Still not sure if I should go for the 5600 now, or get a used 3600 as CoolCab suggested and save $100 until either AMD releases the next big chip or I'm ready to monitor upgrade.

Also still feeling a little iffy about buying into a chipset at end of life, but c'est la vie I guess?

it's kind of a weird place to be mostly because of how trivial 1080p 60fps is at the moment. like, you could go for an even cheaper chip for the overwhelming majority of titles. if you wanted to upgrade to a very high refresh rate 1080p display for esports of twitch action or something, that's very CPU intensive comparatively and as such you should buy the most CPU you can, although a 3600 will still comfortably push 144 which is the entry tier high refresh rate in the majority of titles. if you buy a higher resolution monitor you'll be more GPU constrained and a 3600 will probably last you a good while.

to be fair the AM4 has had a silly long life, that one socket is now five years old and can boast almost perfect cross compatibility. i dunno if amd will keep that strategy or revert back to intel's approach now that they're doing better - intel's sockets are no where near as long lived.

Unsinkabear
Jun 8, 2013

Ensign, raise the beariscope.





CoolCab posted:

it's kind of a weird place to be mostly because of how trivial 1080p 60fps is at the moment

Is this still true with ray tracing on? It looks like the only two interesting games that have it right now are Control and Ghostrunner, but I'm still academically curious.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Unsinkabear posted:

Is this still true with ray tracing on? It looks like the only two interesting games that have it right now are Control and Ghostrunner, but I'm still academically curious.

depends heavily on the game and tool you use to render it. a 30 series card with modern cuda cores performs so in this game, while a 20 series card might perform a bit worse on the same workload, AMD cards generally even worse, etc.

cyberpunk can choke a 3090 at 1080p and leave it just over 60 if you crank everything to insane.

but personally, and you'll hear dissenting opinions on this, as someone who's had a 3070 for almost a year now ray tracing still isn't a feature to shop on, imo. it makes mirrors work, that's basically it.

dakana
Aug 28, 2006
So I packed up my Salvador Dali print of two blindfolded dental hygienists trying to make a circle on an Etch-a-Sketch and headed for California.
I wanted to get some feedback on this build before I started pulling the trigger. My trusty i7-4400k machine I built in ~2013 is on its last legs, and I've been pretty out of the loop in terms of new pc building tech. I've done a bit of research but I don't know what I don't know.

I'm in the U.S., and I live near a Microcenter. This'll be used mostly for multimedia work — video/photo/graphics in Premiere Pro, After Effects, Lightroom, Photoshop, InDesign, and Illustrator. I like to work with proxies when I can, but sometimes it's nice to be able to just crank through a project and get it published without setting all that up. I usually work with 4K files and publish in 1080p.

My plan is to build a mini-ITX system because I don't have a ton of room in my little home office space and I like the idea of a small and compact machine.

I went back and forth on the RAM — 32gb vs 64gb — but ultimately figured I should just bite the bullet and spend the extra $140. With only two slots in the mini-ITX motherboard, it's not like I can just add another two sticks down the road if I wanted to upgrade.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 56.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-I GAMING Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard
GPU: GeForce GTX 970 (already owned)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive
Other storage: Samsung 860 250gb SSD and Samsung 860 500gb SSD (both SATA, both already owned)
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR200 Mini ITX Desktop Case
Power Supply: Corsair SF 600 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply

For cooling, my plan (based on others' builds on PCPartPicker) is to mount the Liquid Freezer radiator on the side as intake, then use two 120mm fans on the bottom as intake and two 120mm fans on the top as exhaust.

Some questions:
Should I shell out for fancy $20/pop Noctua fans, or is the airflow and noise difference overstated vs cheaper fans? Keeping everything cool is obviously important, and I'd also prefer it to not sound like a beehive.
Do I need more wattage in the power supply? I don't anticipate upgrading to a bigger GPU since I really don't have a lot of time to game these days. PCPartPicker puts the current estimated wattage at 442W.

mA
Jul 10, 2001
I am the ugly lover.

Seyser Koze posted:

it's academic anyway since the gigabyte 3080 just disappeared from stock :v:

I assume this goes for the Gigabyte motherboard as well?

Just to clarify, I'm not saying their hardware sucks, they're fine. I have a gigabyte mobo. Chances are you probably won't have major issues if you get a Gigabyte GPU, but godspeed if something goes wrong with it and you have to deal with their RMA system. After having a horrific RMA experience with them over my 3090, I can't overlook how awful it was to deal with their RMA system compared to my experiences with EVGA. I think it's rational to take potential customer service into account before you sink $700-$1,500 into the most expensive component in your system. It took over 3 months to get my card repaired by Gigabyte (with no updates, and no responses when I inquired about my RMA), only to have it break again a week later. After, they offered to send me a weaker replacement card (3080). (I'm not kidding!). Eventually they finally sent me a working refurb, which was almost 6 months after my initial RMA. By that time my EVGA 3090 queue notification came through, so I sold off the Gigabyte card. I still might buy Gigabyte components in the future that aren't too expensive (budget mobos, budget monitor, fans, etc), but not for big ticket hardware like a GPU.

More horror stories here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/gigabyte/search/?q=%20rma&restrict_sr=1&t=year
https://www.reddit.com/r/gigabytegaming/search/?q=rma&restrict_sr=1&t=year
Obviously critical posts will always provide a biased sample, but at the very least, they reveal what you should be prepared to deal with when you buy a Gigabyte component.

mA fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Sep 13, 2021

Elderbean
Jun 10, 2013


What considerations need to be made for a build that's more focused on art? My PC is over a decade old and I don't keep up with hardware. I don't game nearly as often as I used to and spend most of my time on the computer doing stuff in PS. Is it a more CPU or GPU intensive build, or are both a big deal? I have a 1060, but everything else in my current PC is pretty old and starting to show its age so I was going to build something new while keeping the card. Budget would be about 1.8 to 2 grand.

Elderbean fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Sep 14, 2021

LODGE NORTH
Jul 30, 2007

If it’s mostly images and not video, you’d be fine building something on the lower end. If you do video, you’ll probably want a good GPU and a decent amount of RAM.

Realistically, if you’re doing image work mostly, you can probably get by with any of the lower builds on PPP and then put a considerable amount of money into some beefy IPS, 4K, 32 inch *tim the toolman grunts* monitor. Or go ultrawide IPS at 2K.

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Action-Bastard
Jan 1, 2008

Hello all,

As a weirdo who's obsessed with smaller versions of things, I'm really interested in trying a mini ITX build.

To keep it cheap and simple I am looking at a home theater PC for the bedroom, and I already have the RAM and CPU cooler laying around. Also, I am not a masochist so no GPU, going with integrated graphics.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Athlon 3000G (14nm) 3.5 GHz Dual-Core Processor ($84.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 74.4 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: MSI B450I GAMING PLUS MAX WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($131.68 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Silverstone SG13 V2 Mini ITX Tower Case ($51.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Silverstone SFX 500 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($96.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $415.64

Cheap. Simple. Mini. That's the plan.

I am not married to any of these parts, but I do want a small simple case that can fit on the shelf by the TV. I don't think airflow/cooling will be a priority with the low spec I am aiming for combined with the lack of GPU. This PC is just going to run file explorer, an internet browser, and VLC.

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