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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Was the bag around the board sealed? They typically are, but not always. There wasn't a bag around the board, but Asrock used one of those boxes that opens to display the motherboard, so I'm not sure a bag would have been there. The main heatsink near the I/O panel, had plastic wrap on it, but none of the others did, which seemed strange? Here's a picture for reference. Black squiggles are obviously the current serial #. This barcode label appears to have been put on by Newegg? I did what you said and pulled back the written part some, and sure enough, the original printed Serial # is different from what the box's UPC label showed for the Serial #. To me, it almost looks like they printed the label for another box, realized they'd had the wrong serial #, then just put a handwritten one over it.  It's just hard to tell if this was just a warehouse tracking label, or if it had been a processed returned or something.
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Sep 17, 2021 18:00
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Unsinkabear posted:Lot of review comments about BSODs in there. One guy had suspicious issues with the PSU overloading despite being overspecced (multiple mentions of this too) and when he went in to confirm it was the right part found the serial number had been removed. Another noticed the RAM wasn't running at advertised speeds and thought it might be an issue with an out of date BIOS, but when he went to fix that found the assembling company had locked him out of updating it? It sounds like a nightmare, are all prebuilts like this? The one with the BIOS update issues doesn't even seem to have gotten the motherboard that's specifically listed in the current product specs. I would be concerned if the retailer either ships the system with other components than advertised or if they retroactively change an existing product page when they swap components (to bring old reviews over to a different product, for example). Not sure about the supposed BIOS lock unless it's some OEM version of the motherboard. However, an i5 CPU on a b460 motherboard like that should be limited to 2666 memory speeds by Intel's specs, so at least the memory speeds are not caused by an error. It's just mismatched memory for that setup, most likely so they can use the excessive memory speeds for marketing points. I wouldn't say all prebuilts are like this but they can definitely be all over the place.
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Sep 17, 2021 18:20
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:The NF-A12x25 is more like $30 on Amazon and Newegg right now. It is indeed the best of the best, but many other fans come close. The fans that will come with the Arctic AIO, the Arctic P12, are actually one of the better ones. They're also way cheaper at $40 for a 5-pack instead of $30 for one. You'll want pressure-optimized fans for an mITX build anyway due to how crammed-together everything is. Thank you for this! I ended up just going with the Arctic P12 5-pack — it'll actually mean I'll have an extra fan, but since it's the same cost as buying 4 individually...
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Sep 17, 2021 18:32
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:
I just wanted to chime in with that I bought a very similar one from Newegg a few months ago (with an i7 processor instead) and it's been great so far. Everything worked and nothing was broken and it didn't come with any weird programs installed or anything. The only concern I had was the CPU would hit the 80s while playing FFXIV (and only FFXIV  ) so I did the most complicated computer related thing I've ever attempted and replaced the CPU fan and now it's like 70 for the GPU, 60 for vrm, and 50 for the CPU while playing. Which seems good? I don't know, I don't know crap about poo poo. But it hasn't exploded so I'm assuming I installed it correctlySince I'm here I do have a few questions: is it normal to suddenly start watching a ton of gamer's nexus videos about all sorts of things I've never had any interest in before? And more seriously: is it easy to change out case fans? Not that I have any need to from what I can guess. But now I have a minor urge to dink around with the thing. At the very least I suspect I'll actual be interested in building my next PC, whenever that would be. Maybe I should have watched all these GN video horror stories about prebulilts first In any case, i should maybe look at a new monitor
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Sep 17, 2021 18:50
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a kitten posted:Since I'm here I do have a few questions: is it normal to suddenly start watching a ton of gamer's nexus videos about all sorts of things I've never had any interest in before? And more seriously: is it easy to change out case fans? Not that I have any need to from what I can guess. But now I have a minor urge to dink around with the thing. Case fans are very easy to replace, just make sure you have the right measurements and pay attention to which direction they're mounted in. Playing around with fan curves can be useful as well, depending on your use case your PC might be way too noisy for little or no benefit
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Sep 17, 2021 19:30
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I'm thinking about either upgrading or building a new PC in a month or two since I'll have some disposable income available. Budget is flexible, but I want to make sure I'm not wasting money on mediocre performance gains. My current build is well over four years old now, but is still a viable gaming platform. I'll be buying in Canada. Specs for my current PC are as follows: i5 7600K 16GB DDR4 3600 GeForce GTX 1070 1440p/150hz Dell monitor with G-Sync In recent years I've been playing more and more sim games like Assetto Corsa, DCS World, and Arma 3. I'd love to get into the new Microsoft Flight Simulator with a PC that can do it justice. I'm considering buying a VR headset too, but I'm not sure if a 1070 is a good card for that in 2021. Otherwise most other titles I play are not demanding on hardware, save for the once a year I play a AAA game. Would it necessarily be worth building a brand new PC for this use case, especially enduring the hellscape of GPU buying? Would building something around say, a 5600X and keeping the 1070 still net substantial gains, especially on CPU dependent games like Arma? Or is it best to just hang on to what I have and hope the market improves in a year or two?
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Sep 17, 2021 19:59
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Sashimi posted:I'm thinking about either upgrading or building a new PC in a month or two since I'll have some disposable income available. Budget is flexible, but I want to make sure I'm not wasting money on mediocre performance gains. My current build is well over four years old now, but is still a viable gaming platform. I'll be buying in Canada. Specs for my current PC are as follows: Fortunately it's real easy to carry over a GPU or replace a GPU independently. A 4c/4t cpu will be holding you back these days, so there's lots of room for improvement there on cpu bound titles, though you'll bump your head on the 1070. Best thing to do now is get a better idea of what's holding you back. Download MSI afterburner and use the overlay to see which component is holding you back, and some idea of by how much.
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Sep 17, 2021 20:45
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SourKraut posted:There wasn't a bag around the board, but Asrock used one of those boxes that opens to display the motherboard, so I'm not sure a bag would have been there. The main heatsink near the I/O panel, had plastic wrap on it, but none of the others did, which seemed strange? The likelihood of a big company like asrock allowing a hand written serial number out the door is very very low IMO. The bottom label has an EIN, so it’s absolutely the original ASrock label. If that serial is correct than I wouldn’t worry. The top label looks like it could easily be a Newegg track label. Why would Asrock need to identify it’s own product as ASrock? Seeing the labels now it’s probably fine.
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Sep 17, 2021 22:25
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Are there any recommendations for a 120mm RGB fan? On a whim I got some RGB RAM and I find it strangely hypnotic. Current setup NR200 3600 3070 Asrock B550 mobo Corsair RGB RAM Fuma 2 rear intake 2x Arctic bottom intake 1x CM Sickleflow top exhaust I'm thinking of replacing the stock CM fan and filling the other top slot with RGB fans. Corsair fans look really pretty but from what I can gather they're not particularly great performance wise and are pricey. Arctic RGB fan performs well but it's got a weird 30mm form factor which won't fit. Are there any ones worth considering?
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Sep 17, 2021 23:08
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waxluthor posted:Thanks! How's this one? I'm not sure about airflow. Possibly worth the extra money for the better CPU and bigger storage. The airflow is a concern, but it may be better than the ones with solid glass front panels because I imagine the bottom intake is pretty open in comparison. Looks like they give it a lot of room to pull air in, and bottom intake like that is often very good for GPU cooling. The only issue is that you don't have air from an intake fan directly passing over the CPU cooler, but I don't see anyone complaining about thermal performance so I guess it's good enough. The main complaints seem to be 1) sometimes the RGB fans aren't plugged into the right header, and 2) the fans are a bit loud. Issue 1 is easily fixed just by knowing where things should be plugged into, and issue 2 is fixed by replacing the fans, but then you're spending yet more cash. Still, that seems like a pretty decent prebuilt.
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Sep 17, 2021 23:52
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I'm gonna pull the trigger! I'm gonna do it! PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($729.00 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML360R RGB 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($144.00 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI MPG B550 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($184.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital SN750 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($266.01 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 3080 10 GB TUF GAMING Video Card Case: Phanteks Eclipse P500A D-RGB ATX Mid Tower Case ($149.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA G1+ 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($208.90 @ Amazon) Total: $1872.88 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-09-17 19:21 EDT-0400 EDIT: also newegg doesn't give the option of not paying for Win10 if they build it for you 
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Sep 18, 2021 00:22
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pretty good PC for two grand with the - oh that's without the GPU. still.
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Sep 18, 2021 00:23
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CoolCab posted:pretty good PC for two grand with the - oh that's without the GPU. still. GPU price is $1070, I figure that's as good as I can hope for.
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Sep 18, 2021 00:25
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Seyser Koze posted:GPU price is $1070, I figure that's as good as I can hope for. still, far from atrocious for three tbh. there are some very premium parts in there. you got your monitor sorted out? good luck and have fun!
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Sep 18, 2021 00:27
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CoolCab posted:still, far from atrocious for three tbh. there are some very premium parts in there. you got your monitor sorted out? good luck and have fun! Not yet. I figure I have a couple weeks to think about that still.
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Sep 18, 2021 00:40
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Seyser Koze posted:I'm gonna pull the trigger! I'm gonna do it! Great. Enjoy.
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Sep 18, 2021 02:17
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I used the above quoted system as a starting point and downgraded for my budget: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/L3tgkX CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Suggestions? Motherboard: MSI MPG B550 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX AM4 Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (doubled to 32gig) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB Video Card: Using existing GTX 1080 until crisis abades. Case: Using same one. Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Gaj fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Sep 19, 2021 |
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Sep 18, 2021 23:57
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If you are mostly gaming, the 5600x is more than sufficient unless you want to play something like MS Flight Simulator at high settings
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Sep 19, 2021 00:14
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My logic is mushy but I want to have the beefy cpu upfront because I dont know how long I will have to lean on my old 1080. It may be 2 years until video card prices return to normal and by then the 5800x will be 2-3 years old.
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Sep 19, 2021 00:35
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I would be surprised if we ever get back to where GPU pricing used to be
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Sep 19, 2021 00:46
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Gaj posted:My logic is mushy but I want to have the beefy cpu upfront because I dont know how long I will have to lean on my old 1080. It may be 2 years until video card prices return to normal and by then the 5800x will be 2-3 years old. There's currently no evidence to suggest that the 5800x will perform better on games 3 years from now in relation to the 5600x than it currently does now, which is only just barely. I would expect them to age at roughly the same pace, actually. The biggest factor between different CPUs on the same architecture appears to be cache size currently since single-core performance tends to be fairly similar and games don't scale very well by adding more cores. Since the 5600x and 5800x have the same cache size, I would bet that new games a few years from now will run very similarly on both, with the 5800x getting maybe a slight edge. Also, if you don't expect your choice in a new CPU to have a major impact until you eventually upgrade your GPU, then it's worth questioning if you really need a new CPU right now. Unless the rest of your system is old (like, ddr3 era), you may be better off waiting to buy the rest of a new system until you can get a GPU, that way you can make sure you have the latest CPU architecture to go with your new GPU. FlamingLiberal posted:I would be surprised if we ever get back to where GPU pricing used to be I mean, GPU pricing will never go back to $700 for an 80 Ti card, and it probably won't ever go back to $700 for a regular 80, even. They will settle down eventually, though. We aren't gonna be in the land of "pay scalpers $1500 or hope to win the chance to buy an $1100 3080" territory forever. And as a side note, MSFS's recent performance improvements have made it so it's usually GPU-bound now, not CPU-bound. The 5600x never struggled too much with the game, but now it handles ultra settings without breaking a sweat, provided you have a GPU that can handle it too. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Sep 19, 2021 |
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Sep 19, 2021 01:14
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Good to hear that they fixed that
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Sep 19, 2021 01:18
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Yeah the fallout from all this is Nivia realizing that they drastically underpriced the 3000 series and they're free to jack up the price of their flasgship products even more.
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Sep 19, 2021 01:56
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wasn't an accident though, worth mentioning. their partners (like MSI etc) howled at the announced RRP and that they'd never be able to make money at that price via basically every available channel. they stopped making anything but the most bells and whistles marked up cards almost immediately. the new consoles were launching and AMD was finally competitive again, they didn't want a repeat of the 20 series where they overpriced following the crypto crash. two things were of course not in this planning - the revival of crypto and covid - and that turned out to be problematic, but that problem is "we're running all our factories flat out but can't keep a product on the shelf" which is kind of a good one to have?
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Sep 19, 2021 02:02
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and really for good reason - it's 2021, the best pc building advice from a price/performance for gigantic chunks of this year were "buy a prebuild" and "buy an xbox". you get way more frames for your money.
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Sep 19, 2021 02:06
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CoolCab posted:and really for good reason - it's 2021, the best pc building advice from a price/performance for gigantic chunks of this year were "buy a prebuild" and "buy an xbox". you get way more frames for your money.
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Sep 19, 2021 02:32
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Crossposting to the SFF/Mini ITX thread I purchased an HTPC with input from this thread and the (now dead?) HTPC thread back in 2014 and am looking for some advice on a minor upgrade. While I use a Roku for most of our streaming purposes these days, I do occasionally need a computer to watch something online and have a moderately large library of movies and music stored on this machine. I’m not a gamer and have a dedicated work laptop; based in the US. The old HTPC build was: • MB: ASRock B85M Pro4 https://www.asrock.com/mb/intel/b85m%20pro4/ • CPU: Intel Core I3 4130 https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/77480/intel-core-i3-4130-processor-3m-cache-3-40-ghz.html • RAM: Kingston 8GB DDR3 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089JIDLC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 • HDD: Samsung 120GB SSD https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W15P0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 • HDD: WD 2TB HDD https://www.amazon.com/AV-GP-Intellipower-Cache-Drive-WD20EURX/dp/B00DXOJJQQ • CD/DVD: Pioneer BDC-207DBK https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Computer/Computer+Drives/BDC-207DBK • Case: Silverston Grandia GD06 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MKNNGW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Following a change of interior furniture, my new cabinet size is ~ 17” W x 13” H x 16” D. The current case can fit, but the fans are up against the side of the cabinet and air circulation is effectively stopped. It would be great to find a case that works with my current motherboard, but I’m not opposed to shifting down to a MITX case if everything else could be accommodated. The DVD player also isn’t very important – we have a separate Blu Ray player – so changing to a case that can’t accommodate it is not a big deal. I was looking online and it seems like Silverstone has some MATX cases that fit my dimensions and would accommodate my peripherals but it’s been a while since I’ve built anything and I was hoping to get a second opinion. Silverstone SG11 https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Micro-ATX-Mini-DTX-Compatible-SG11B/dp/B00U8IS830/ref=psdc_572238_t1_B07PF919BY Am I going about this the right way? Any other cases that I should look at instead? Anza Borrego fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Sep 19, 2021 |
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Sep 19, 2021 22:22
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I'm interested in doing a new build, but for now I want to keep the Geoforce 1080 card I have due to the insane prices for GPUs. Will that be sufficient for most games?
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Sep 19, 2021 23:12
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Willo567 posted:I'm interested in doing a new build, but for now I want to keep the Geoforce 1080 card I have due to the insane prices for GPUs. Will that be sufficient for most games? Depends on your expectations, but it looks like it's held up pretty well.
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Sep 19, 2021 23:31
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Okay, I’ve assembled my new build and it’s looking like it’s DOA - refusing to power on at all  . What should be my next steps to troubleshoot this?So far I’ve flashed the bios (which seemed to go successfully) and put everything together, but when I press the power button nothing happens - not even a squeak from the board’s debugging LEDs. I’ve checked the power cables - which all seem to be seated correctly. I also found if connected the front panel incorrectly - but after fixing that still nothing. I’ve tried removing the front panel connectors entirely and jumping the power switch pins with a screwdriver, but still nothing. The power supply is one I’m reusing - so obviously I can vouch that that works. Only thing I can think of I that the bios update may have hosed up somehow - in which case I guess I should I try a reset and see if that gets this thing to post? Anything else I should try/test? Parts list for completeness: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor (£242.31 @ Amazon UK) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49 CFM CPU Cooler (£39.98 @ Overclockers.co.uk) (already owned) Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-E GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard (£185.99 @ Box Limited) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory (£100.75 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£123.44 @ Technextday) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB FTW2 GAMING iCX Video Card (already owned) Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 Compact ATX Mid Tower Case (£93.84 @ Clove Technology) Power Supply: EVGA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£85.47 @ Scan.co.uk) (already owned) Total: £871.78
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Sep 20, 2021 01:38
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Try reseating your RAM. (I had the same "totally dead, no response" initially on my 5600X/B550 build in March and freaked out, but popping the sticks out, back in, and really pressing along the whole edge of each stick fixed it and I was 100% good to go after.)
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Sep 20, 2021 01:49
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And if that doesn't work try it again.
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Sep 20, 2021 01:51
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Also extremely dumb but easy to miss: check the physical button on your power supply and make sure the line-side is pushed in/switched, and not the circle.
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Sep 20, 2021 02:42
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Sadly reseating the ram did nothing. I guess I’ll try reseating everything else tomorrow - my fingertips need a break from sharp-cornered plastic. Tempted to try a CMOS reset first in the hope I can avoid that work. One crazy thought - I did accidentally plug the 8-pin motherboard power cable the wrong way round during the build (thanks, confusingly-keyed modular PSUs). I obviously fixed that before (trying to) power on, but is it possible/ likely I bent a connector out of shape? E: The Joe Man posted:Also extremely dumb but easy to miss: check the physical button on your power supply and make sure the line-side is pushed in/switched, and not the circle. Yeah I flicked that littler fucker back and forth several times in frustration. Can safely rule that out as the cause. DoctorTristan fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Sep 20, 2021 |
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Sep 20, 2021 02:49
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Take everything out of the case and build it on the box. Barebones, one stick of ram, one drive etc.
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Sep 20, 2021 03:34
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Judging by the DDR3, your system is quite old. I have a feeling that we'll be building a new PC from scratch here. Don't worry though, $1500 is more than enough. We'll come in under that budget. This is a pretty solid list and pretty close to what I have; only thing I would add is that the card is beefy in performance (and heat, a good card to undervolt) and SIZE: the back has a thick metal backplate running the length of the card and the GPU will not fit in your top PCIx16 slot with an NH-D15 (at least in my atx x570 motherboard). Corsair ripjaw RAM will also not fit under the NHD15 without raising one of the fans up. This doesn't really impact performance but is an issue if you have a really small case or if you're OCD with looks. I had to swap for the NHD15S to fit the GPU, and swap to Corsair Vengeance RAM to fit under. If you are going overclock on the CPU I would avoid the nhd15(S) for an AIO just because of your much you have to do to work around it (and I love my Noctuas). Also remember that your GPU needs 3 8-pin connections so smaller cases and bigger coolers are goingto make that more difficult to cable route PageMaster fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Sep 20, 2021 |
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Sep 20, 2021 06:13
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DoctorTristan posted:Sadly reseating the ram did nothing. I guess I’ll try reseating everything else tomorrow - my fingertips need a break from sharp-cornered plastic. Tempted to try a CMOS reset first in the hope I can avoid that work. Very possible, especially if it got all the way plugged in. When you reseat, if your PSU is modular make sure that side is plugged in as well. I’ve also seen people forget the 4pin CPU plug. You should also check the outlet if you haven’t.
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Sep 20, 2021 06:13
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Yeah that’s what I was afraid of  . If the cable’s damaged then it’ll probably be better to get a new PSU - evga don’t ship their cable sets to uk and the price of aftermarket is ridiculous. (The wall outlet is fine - I’m not using the 4 pin cpu power connector but that should be fine given the low TDP of my components) I’ll pull everything out of the board this evening and check the obnoxious onboard RGB lighting still turns on, then try reseating everything.
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Sep 20, 2021 08:11
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DoctorTristan posted:Yeah that’s what I was afraid of Wait what? Not that should not be fine. Plug in your 4 pin. And the 5600x is absolutely not a low TDP component.
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Sep 20, 2021 12:53
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Wait what? The 5600x is a 65w TDP component, which isn't super low but also the 8-pin connector is more than enough for it. Many motherboard manuals will even say the extra 4-pin connector is optional. The general advice I've seen on the internet is that you don't need to use it unless you're doing heavy-duty overclocking on high-end CPUs.
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Sep 20, 2021 13:00
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