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Wow the new Hue app really is awful, isn't it. I haven't touched it for a while, just been enjoying a working system with timers and switches, but I Hue-ified my entrance hall at the weekend, and that's a massive downgrade in usability for settings levels/CT and saving scenes.
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# ? Sep 20, 2021 08:00 |
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# ? May 11, 2024 20:02 |
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Bobstar posted:Wow the new Hue app really is awful, isn't it. I haven't touched it for a while, just been enjoying a working system with timers and switches, but I Hue-ified my entrance hall at the weekend, and that's a massive downgrade in usability for settings levels/CT and saving scenes. I really hate that I am not able to see when my bridge last updated.
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# ? Sep 20, 2021 08:07 |
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Gyshall posted:How are caseta switches supposed to work when you have one on each side of a circuit? I know some of them have the traveler wire, but I always just went with the Pico remote in the other location approach and wire nutting the other location appropriately.
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# ? Sep 20, 2021 11:36 |
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Caseta switches and dimmers aren't designed to have multiple units controlling the same load. The expectation is that you'll use Picos because they're cheaper. They do have a blue wire to use with a normal toggle switch if you don't want to change both ends of a three way for some reason.
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# ? Sep 20, 2021 16:53 |
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TacoHavoc posted:Caseta switches and dimmers aren't designed to have multiple units controlling the same load. The expectation is that you'll use Picos because they're cheaper. They do have a blue wire to use with a normal toggle switch if you don't want to change both ends of a three way for some reason. Their non-hardwired switches don't share targets well either. I have a staircase fixture with two smart bulbs, and Lutron Aurora dimmers at the top and bottom. These dimmers sometimes "fight" with each other, causing one to override what the other is trying to do. So occasionally the on/off functionality will work fine, but I can't control the brightness from one switch or the other. This is probably an unusual edge case, but it's the one bummer about these dimmers that otherwise have been absolutely spectacular for my needs (controlling same-room lights without rewiring anything).
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# ? Sep 20, 2021 16:58 |
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WhiteHowler posted:Their non-hardwired switches don't share targets well either. Yeah the aurora is a weird product because it's the only one (that is common in the retail residential space) that doesn't use clear connect, so it inherits some of the warts of the zigbee/hue ecosystem. It also doesn't directly dim the bulb, instead it asks the bulb nicely to dim and hopes it listens. A caseta dimmer actually chops the AC signal powering the bulb. A pico just tells the caseta dimmer "hey, get brighter" and the dimmer changes the AC signal. Whereas the aurora asks the bulb's built in control to do something, and the bulb decides what to do.
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# ? Sep 20, 2021 18:28 |
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We found him! We found the one guy who likes blue LEDs! Edit: noticed the surface duo there. It's a neat idea with some promising use cases, but i returned mine because it was just too cumbersome to use as a daily driver. azurite fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Sep 20, 2021 |
# ? Sep 20, 2021 20:08 |
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Three Olives posted:It's a Sceptre, I've spent more money day drinking on a Sunday, regularly, than that TV cost, it's disposable. that wasn't why they pointed it out lmao
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# ? Sep 20, 2021 20:24 |
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Three Olives posted:So, a weather station? Yeah that e-ink screen is a lot more appealing to me. What's the company behind that one? I wouldn't do the newspaper thing, but it would be awesome for the weather station, and at a fraction of the power.
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# ? Sep 21, 2021 00:17 |
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azurite posted:We found him! We found the one guy who likes blue LEDs! Normally they are white, I put in a bias light on our living room and den TVs that pulls on screen colors and this weekend project was integrating them into my home automation system. As for the TV, I live an 80 year old home with the original kitchen, there is literally nowhere else to put it and I like watching the news when I cook dinner. We don't even have a dishwasher (Although that is being rectified shortly at the cost of thousands of dollars). The Duo, so, I bought it for $400 on clearance. I don't think I would daily drive it but it has it's uses. I'm firmly in the Apple eco system but always keep an Android phone around, partially, because a lot of home automation stuff doesn't to play well with Apple for setup. I popped a pre-paid SIM in it, it's nice for work meetings and content consumption if I am in a situation where bringing two devices with me isn't a pain. It's definitely more a tablet than a phone. IUG posted:Yeah that e-ink screen is a lot more appealing to me. What's the company behind that one? I wouldn't do the newspaper thing, but it would be awesome for the weather station, and at a fraction of the power. https://blog.adafruit.com/2020/04/10/displaying-the-front-page-of-a-newspaper-on-a-large-eink-display-eink-epaper-newspapers-ozm-maxbraun/ DIY, the one in the photo is based of a 32" epaper display that costs $2,600, it's for wireless digital signage. https://www.visionect.com/product/place-and-play-32/ Three Olives fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Sep 21, 2021 |
# ? Sep 21, 2021 00:28 |
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Thanks for the input re: Caseta. I was going nuts trying to figure it out but the Pico approach is reasonable and works well enough.
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# ? Sep 21, 2021 01:30 |
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Gyshall posted:Thanks for the input re: Caseta. I was going nuts trying to figure it out but the Pico approach is reasonable and works well enough. Yeah, upon reading the second post I realized I was tired posting; I do have mostly dimmer Casetas + Picos everywhere, but I do have one set of stair lights I put on a Caseta switch (not dimmer) where I used the blue wire to keep the mechanical toggle working as well. Picos are super nice though, because you can spawn n-way switches to your hearts content, with their wall plate mount.
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# ? Sep 21, 2021 11:31 |
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I don't know when my router decided to just purge all its assigned IPs but I wish home assistant was a little bit smarter when it came to finding devices so the once a year or so I had a brief power outage didn't mean I lost a ton of integrations. I really don't want to have to get a UPS just for my drat raspberry pi. Henrik Zetterberg posted:I’ve thought about it, but only because I have multiple teenagers in my house, all with completely different sports schedules. It’s a nightmare to keep everything straight and people on time everywhere. Have you tried any of those family calendar managing apps? Just curious, my life does not have enough people in it to justify them but I've read a few articles saying these sorts of apps really help organize modern life.
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# ? Sep 24, 2021 13:57 |
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Rick posted:I don't know when my router decided to just purge all its assigned IPs but I wish home assistant was a little bit smarter when it came to finding devices so the once a year or so I had a brief power outage didn't mean I lost a ton of integrations. I really don't want to have to get a UPS just for my drat raspberry pi. This sounds like you're trying to solve the wrong problem.......
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# ? Sep 24, 2021 14:24 |
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Rick posted:I really don't want to have to get a UPS just for my drat raspberry pi. I put my HA Pi, router, modem, smart hubs, and ONT on a UPS. Had to get a separate UPS for the ONT since that's in the garage, but the rest is on a single UPS. The result is that if I lose power all my network gear stays online. I think I can get 2-3 hours out of it since there's so little power draw, which means I can ride out most power outages in my area. Mainly this allows me to keep internet access during a power outage, rather than have to rely on the cell network that quickly becomes jammed up during power failures. But it also keeps all the automation stuff from going haywire. Rick posted:I don't know when my router decided to just purge all its assigned IPs but I wish home assistant was a little bit smarter when it came to finding devices so the once a year or so I had a brief power outage didn't mean I lost a ton of integrations. IMO if your router can't remember static IP assignments over a power blip, you need a new router. HA really should only have to care about IP addresses, and the router should be the one to make that assignment. I'm not sure if things like MAC are easy to find by HA, but ultimately if you swap a device out then that changes, so you either have to change it at the router or in HA anyhow. I mean, HA is able to identify certain devices with dynamic IPs, but I'm guessing that's for things that have cloud integrations that handle the communication, rather than locally controlled devices. Not sure if consumer routers can do port-based IP assignment... that might be a better way to do things, since it would allow for quick change of a device without having to touch any software/configuration, but then you're at the mercy of anyone who decides to plug random poo poo in to the router. Also doesn't really help for wireless devices, so that may be a bust. edit: So I just re-read your post... are you even assigning static IP addresses on your router? Or are you hard coding HA with whatever dynamic IP was assigned at the time? Dynamic IPs will get lost over a power cycle. Always. Well, not always, but there's no guarantee that it'll be the same when power comes back on. If you aren't already, you need to configure your router to assign each device a static IP based on the MAC address. Until you replace the device, this will tell the router to always give device X the same IP address, which means HA will always be able to find it. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Sep 24, 2021 |
# ? Sep 24, 2021 14:27 |
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Rick posted:I don't know when my router decided to just purge all its assigned IPs but I wish home assistant was a little bit smarter when it came to finding devices so the once a year or so I had a brief power outage didn't mean I lost a ton of integrations. I really don't want to have to get a UPS just for my drat raspberry pi. 1. Don't use IP addresses, use names. 2. If your network is not set up to allow names to be reliably used, use DHCP reservations to ensure devices that provide network services keep the same address at all times. 3. If your DHCP/DNS server (usually your router) can't support reservations or names get a new one.
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# ? Sep 24, 2021 16:45 |
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Rick posted:I don't know when my router decided to just purge all its assigned IPs but I wish home assistant was a little bit smarter when it came to finding devices so the once a year or so I had a brief power outage didn't mean I lost a ton of integrations. I really don't want to have to get a UPS just for my drat raspberry pi. Got an example of one? I have not; I just use a shared calendar in iOS.
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# ? Sep 24, 2021 17:24 |
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RE: router stuff. Y'all are right that the router losing its reservations/static assignments with a power outage is probably not a great sign, especially less than two years in to its life. It's definitely something I'm keeping an eye on. I just wish that HA didn't take an integration being a different IP address as it being perma unreachable, especially since so many of these stupid cheap devices don't directly support static IPs on their own and I have to assign them one and sometimes the game is deciding which poorly labeled IOT crap device goes with which mac address. Henrik Zetterberg posted:Got an example of one? I have not; I just use a shared calendar in iOS. Cozi seems to be the one I see come up the most. It looks like it just puts all your family's calendars into one place.
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# ? Sep 24, 2021 18:21 |
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Rick posted:RE: router stuff. Y'all are right that the router losing its reservations/static assignments with a power outage is probably not a great sign, especially less than two years in to its life. It's definitely something I'm keeping an eye on. If you were just counting on the dynamic lease table surviving a power failure, then you hosed up as that will basically never happen on an appliance type device without a hard drive. Something that boots from a small amount of flash isn't going to burn write cycles on saving DHCP leases, it'd kill itself over time. quote:I just wish that HA didn't take an integration being a different IP address as it being perma unreachable, especially since so many of these stupid cheap devices don't directly support static IPs on their own and I have to assign them one and sometimes the game is deciding which poorly labeled IOT crap device goes with which mac address. I get your frustration at the situation but I don't see how it could have been handled better by the software without you doing something different in the setup.
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# ? Sep 24, 2021 18:55 |
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wolrah posted:So you're saying you HAD configured static reservations for these devices and the router has deleted these or stopped doing it properly after the power failure? If so then yeah that thing is hosed up. Yeah I had static reservations for most of this garbage. I'm not experiencing any other issues and there seems to have been a pretty recent firmware installation so I'm wondering if they got zapped then and I just didn't notice until now. I guess you're right I'm just spoiled by like, Hue, my TV and like iHome smart plugs where it just finds the poo poo, basically all that stuff showing up without any intervention on my part.
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# ? Sep 24, 2021 20:19 |
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Thwomp posted:Anyone else use an ecobee thermostat and been having connection issues recently? As a follow up on this, my son accidentally removing the ecobee unit from the wall base did some good. It’s still not responding occasionally but it’s better than before.
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# ? Sep 26, 2021 14:31 |
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Home Assistant question: I'm about to revive an old laptop with a new battery and SSD in order to run HA. Barring any other hardware issues, should be good to go after that. Really just needs a battery, but the HDD is almost 10 years old, so it's a ticking time bomb... I figure even if the rest of the hardware dies in a year or two, the battery is cheap and the SSD is portable. So that said, I'm starting completely fresh. What HA install should I use? Basically, do I want to run it off a VM, or should I just go ahead with the HAOS? I know the VM route gives me flexibility to install other stuff down the road, so I'm not opposed to it, I just don't know if there are any limitations or if it's just a matter of being more complex to set up. Also, will it be simple to migrate my current config from my Raspberry Pi?
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# ? Sep 27, 2021 02:27 |
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Having just tried similar the other day, the HassOS wants UEFI boot. If that machine doesn’t support it, then it looks like it’s a VM on top of another OS as the next option.
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# ? Sep 27, 2021 21:42 |
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Partycat posted:Having just tried similar the other day, the HassOS wants UEFI boot. If that machine doesn’t support it, then it looks like it’s a VM on top of another OS as the next option. Ah, good to know. Just checked and looks like the laptop does support that. Did just notice that it only has 8GB of memory. Will that be an issue? I mean, my Pi only has 4 so I can't expect that's an issue, but who knows. I suspect with 8GB of memory it might be a challenge to run a VM, though. So that might be my answer.
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# ? Sep 27, 2021 22:30 |
I'm running it in a VM with a linux host. If I'm not mistaken I've allocated 8 GB to it. Just make sure if you do a VM make sure to expand the virtual disk. I had to do that at a much later date and it was a bit of a pain. Does anyone have a recommendation for tasmota outdoor plug, or something flashable with tasmota? I'd prefer to have a non-cloud based plug that I could control over MQTT.
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# ? Sep 28, 2021 21:43 |
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We have to many c by ge lights and I'm getting sick of them, for some reason since like a month ago or so they are constantly not responding, turning them off and on manually sometimes makes them work, sometimes resetting the Google home mini that is near works, sometimes resetting the router works. But it's getting annoying having to sometimes do the whole bulb reset process just for them to work for a couple days or so. I don't know what to do to fix this, any idea if like deleting everything and setting it all up new will fix it?
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# ? Sep 29, 2021 17:32 |
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That Home Assistant Amber platform based on the RPi4 compute module seems nice. What's not so nice is that it's delayed, because SiLabs bumped their lead times for the programmable Zigbee SoC from 6 to 42 weeks.
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# ? Sep 29, 2021 17:48 |
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I'm in the early stages of learning about home networking and automation/monitoring so apologies for likely using the wrong lingo. I'm more interested in data collection and looking at pretty graphs over time than any serious automation. My question is about solar inverters. I'm planning on adding solar to my roof and would like to be able to monitor power generation, ideally not via a cloud service (local network?). Home Assistant looks like something I'd like to learn and set up as a hobby. When I go to shop for an inverter, what qualities do I want to look for so it'll be able to communicate with HA?
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# ? Sep 30, 2021 17:22 |
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I think there are multiple vendors of solar inverters that support modbus rs485, some also support other protocols. Going self-hosted for production tracking is absolutely recommended, but be aware that you probably can't dodge the installers' preferred internet-based solution. They might even mandate it for warranty purposes.
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# ? Sep 30, 2021 21:13 |
I recently had some panels installed, the inverter is from Fronius, which spits out some JSON formatted information that I pull into HA. I make some pretty graphs and go wow we're making a lot more than we need right now. I just let it use whatever cloud setup and ignore that for HA.
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# ? Sep 30, 2021 21:43 |
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Anyone have experience with Liftmaster MyQ garage doors? This might go better somewhere else, TBH… We have 3 garage doors: 2 are brand new and have MyQ/WiFi, one is 14 years old. I’m getting a new wall control panel for the old one to be able to use newer remotes with it (889LM), which is also MyQ enabled. Typically you’d use a MyQ internet gateway to make the old garage door unit with the new control panel work with MyQ. I’ve seen a reference in an FAQ for one of the new garage door openers that it can be used for up to 10 MyQ devices. Is it possible to hook up a 889LM control panel to a different MyQ WiFi garage door unit to make it work through the app (without its own internet gateway)?
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# ? Oct 1, 2021 21:04 |
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Wibla posted:I think there are multiple vendors of solar inverters that support modbus rs485, some also support other protocols. calandryll posted:I recently had some panels installed, the inverter is from Fronius, which spits out some JSON formatted information that I pull into HA. I make some pretty graphs and go wow we're making a lot more than we need right now. I just let it use whatever cloud setup and ignore that for HA.
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# ? Oct 1, 2021 22:37 |
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spf3million posted:Thanks. I don't care if big brother is watching my solar I formation but I'd like to be able to get it without relying on the internet. Totally agreed, but it's not the only issue in my view. It's having a "who knows what security/patching is happening" device on your home network. One that can potentially control your power......... That kind of thing would absolutely be in one of my VLAN jails if I absolutely HAD to leave it on for warranty purposes or something.
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# ? Oct 1, 2021 23:09 |
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Motronic posted:That kind of thing would absolutely be in one of my VLAN jails if I absolutely HAD to leave it on for warranty purposes or something.
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# ? Oct 2, 2021 00:20 |
spf3million posted:This is the kind of thing I want to learn more about. Unifi documentation & the Mactelecom Networks youtube channel was my crash course through this. Took me a few hours but eventually got there. Now I've got my NAS & Desktop on 1 VLAN, IoT poo poo on another, and Cameras on a third. Setup the firewall rules so that things can't communicate across the VLANs, except for specific hosts & ports (Fire Stick accessing the NAS for media, Desktop accessing a printer, etc).
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# ? Oct 2, 2021 00:30 |
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Keep in mind if you do this that any traffic between the VLANs has to cross the router, so while IoT stuff is usually pretty easy to deal with the idea of putting a NAS or other high bandwidth device on its own VLAN is something you'd need to make sure you had the hardware for. Fortunately layer 3 switching is coming down in price a lot so wirespeed routing isn't as big of a concern as it used to be.
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# ? Oct 2, 2021 14:32 |
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Has anyone found reliable outdoor/weatherproof door sensors? Between the neighbor kids, my lawn guy, and ADHD members of my household, the backyard gates tend to get left open. We have a dog who is absolutely not street-smart, and I'd like to set up an alert in HA if the gates are open (maybe a beep when they're open/closed and an alarm if they've been open for more than five minutes). I ordered a couple of Aqara Zigbee door sensors and plan to see how weatherproof-able they are, but my hopes aren't high. They're cheap though, so we'll see!
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# ? Oct 2, 2021 15:52 |
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They're magnetically triggered. Just wrap them up in something watertight.
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# ? Oct 2, 2021 18:04 |
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WhiteHowler posted:Has anyone found reliable outdoor/weatherproof door sensors? I use a Sensative Strips z-wave one for my gate and it's super good, though a little expensive, and ultimately disposable since you can't replace the battery when it dies. That said, mine has been installed for 2.5 years and reads 75% battery.
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# ? Oct 3, 2021 03:04 |
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# ? May 11, 2024 20:02 |
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fletcher posted:Unifi documentation & the Mactelecom Networks youtube channel was my crash course through this. Took me a few hours but eventually got there. Now I've got my NAS & Desktop on 1 VLAN, IoT poo poo on another, and Cameras on a third. Setup the firewall rules so that things can't communicate across the VLANs, except for specific hosts & ports (Fire Stick accessing the NAS for media, Desktop accessing a printer, etc).
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# ? Oct 3, 2021 04:44 |