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DarkAvenger211 posted:Looking to pickup a new M.2 SSD. I haven't put one in before, do I need to pull my motherboard out to do this or should it still be easy to do while still in the case? very probably. some boards have the slot on the back and you'd have to pull out but that's mostly for extra slots.
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Sep 24, 2021 17:47
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please note the difference between SATA m.2 and nvme m.2. the latter is sometimes called "pcie". make sure your motherboard is compatible before you buy one.
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Sep 24, 2021 17:48
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DarkAvenger211 posted:Looking to pickup a new M.2 SSD. I haven't put one in before, do I need to pull my motherboard out to do this or should it still be easy to do while still in the case? You can probably do it while it's still in the case. The risk is that you unscrew the cover and drop the screw into the depths of the case and then have to go extract it.
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Sep 24, 2021 18:02
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Yes, it's like a lava lamp.
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How is the warranty support for Super Flower and Corsair power supplies? My current power supply is EVGA and I did have to RMA it for a replacement which was painless, but right now I'm looking for an 850W unit and it looks like those two brands are both well-reviewed but quite a bit cheaper for similar units.
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Sep 24, 2021 18:45
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Related question: I bought a Corsair RM 650 Watt 80+ Gold PSU from Reddit a few months ago that has something wrong with it (either buzzy capacitors or really loud fan coil whine, even at idle). The series comes with a 10 year warranty, can I RMA it even though I got it secondhand?
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Sep 24, 2021 18:57
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CoolCab posted:very probably. some boards have the slot on the back and you'd have to pull out but that's mostly for extra slots. It definitely has some slots on the front. Thanks!
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Sep 24, 2021 19:06
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Shear Modulus posted:How is the warranty support for Super Flower and Corsair power supplies?
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Sep 24, 2021 19:21
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lol is that EVGA Geforce FTW literally named after "for the win"
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Sep 24, 2021 19:50
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you think that's bad, XFX has a "THICC" line of cards
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Sep 24, 2021 19:54
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denereal visease posted:I bought an SF600 Plat directly from Corsair last year that was DOA, they replaced it with no BS but I did have to pay to ship it back to them. Thanks, that is indeed useful info because IIRC when I RMA'd my EVGA PSU they sent me a prepaid label. PS I don't think I put enough acronyms in this post.
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Sep 24, 2021 23:19
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DerekSmartymans posted:
I’m interested in you internet. I’m building a new house and the only internet option was ATT DSL at a whopping 5mb. I asked the neighbor who had it and they said 5 was probably a bit optimistic lol. I bought one of those T-Mobile home internet cylinders and have been running speed tests occasionally while I’m working on the house. It’s been pretty consistent at 20mb down and 5mb up for the last couple months, which is better than the internet at my old house so I was happy with it. However, this week it started running at 200-300 down and 10-20 up out of nowhere so I’m thrilled. I just hope it works for online gaming because I’ve read threads online of customers saying it’s great for streaming but won’t work with online games.
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Sep 24, 2021 23:59
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Ok, so I have all of my parts. Any recommendations on a decent guide on how to put it all together?
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Sep 25, 2021 01:27
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sure, and it's first person https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7MYOpFONCU
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Sep 25, 2021 01:28
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Modus Man posted:I’m interested in you internet. I’m building a new house and the only internet option was ATT DSL at a whopping 5mb. I asked the neighbor who had it and they said 5 was probably a bit optimistic lol. I bought one of those T-Mobile home internet cylinders and have been running speed tests occasionally while I’m working on the house. It’s been pretty consistent at 20mb down and 5mb up for the last couple months, which is better than the internet at my old house so I was happy with it. However, this week it started running at 200-300 down and 10-20 up out of nowhere so I’m thrilled. I just hope it works for online gaming because I’ve read threads online of customers saying it’s great for streaming but won’t work with online games. When I moved in with my parents we were on 56K dial-up, which actually ran 28.8 on our road’s 1935 infrastructure. We eventually ended up getting 1st gen satellite from HughesNet, and it was faster than what we had, we had a 20Gb data cap. Like 2 up/.5 down, but with 1000ms latency on a good day. I and my 7 y/o son played WoW, and I actually played enough to handle “Backstab” from predicting where a target was going to be in the next second. I did usually stick to killing casters with major-league burst damage after getting comfortable with my limitations, as ping above 1500 was normal. I downloaded a 600Mb Ubuntu 8.1 and we lost internet for almost a month because the cap was a rolling 30 day total and it was bad, since the only work my father and I had was on a (successful) eBay market and we ended up paying $150 a month for the extra 10Gb plan. This went on for a decade; nobody even watched any YouTube or Netflix, and even single-player games on physical media had mostly stuttering and huge lag because of ultra lovely DRM that required an always-on broadband connection checked by Ubisoft/Rockstar every other second to check if my DVD was legit. SplinterCell: Conviction was literally impossible to play even as a single-player game because of uncontrollable DRM. A couple of years ago we switched to AT&T mobile for our five phones, each with a 25Gb data cap. I ran my iPhone tethered to my desktop at 4G LTE speeds (very reliable, though) and kept a literal list of things to download so I could take my desktop to my sister’s house for big patches and driver updates on their cable (now 10Gb fiber) because they lived in Collierville 20 minutes away. I didn’t even have Steam or any game you could download, because I had to buy physical copies at Walmart or GameStop so I could uninstall/reinstall games. Speed was 15 down/ 3 up. Now I have a T-Mobile 5G/4G LTE modem from an ngo: the kicker is it’s an unlimited plan and we have a T-Mobile 5G tower less than a mile away if you walked from my house through the woods. I download free games and software now. Everything from Steam and GoG and Epic and Netflix and Disney+ etc. I get free games when platforms offer even if I’ve not heard of them. Downloaded UE 4 and 5 and Unity just for a hobby, something I’d always wanted to tame my graphorrhea by animating some of my writing messes (35 years of notebooks and paper; the good “Mark’s off his meds again” stuff is only from like 1999>now, though). I am a YouTube junky now.
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Sep 25, 2021 03:57
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Modus Man posted:I’m interested in you internet. I’m building a new house and the only internet option was ATT DSL at a whopping 5mb. I asked the neighbor who had it and they said 5 was probably a bit optimistic lol. I bought one of those T-Mobile home internet cylinders and have been running speed tests occasionally while I’m working on the house. It’s been pretty consistent at 20mb down and 5mb up for the last couple months, which is better than the internet at my old house so I was happy with it. However, this week it started running at 200-300 down and 10-20 up out of nowhere so I’m thrilled. I just hope it works for online gaming because I’ve read threads online of customers saying it’s great for streaming but won’t work with online games. Tmo might have thrown up a 5G or better LTE cell in your area.
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Sep 25, 2021 05:56
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SSD Chat - I've been using a Samsung 830 (SAMSUNG 830 Series 2.5-Inch 512GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive ) SSD with my ~6 year old PC for a while now. Performance is great but I'd like more storage I think. Are there any downsides to getting a 1-2TB Samsung EVO 870 while I contemplate a new build in a year or two? Ultimately I plan on NVMe drives with a new computer, but until I get a new motherboard/processor it would be good to know if this is just a simple "more storage" drive, or if the 870 EVO actually performs better with that 6.0Gbps SATA 3 bottleneck. Anyway, read/write speeds are fine, just wondering if there are any downsides to buying an EVO 870 and doing a "samsung magic" bit copy of my OS to the new drive. Maybe it's time for a fresh install of Windows anyway.
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Sep 25, 2021 06:01
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Shear Modulus posted:How is the warranty support for Super Flower and Corsair power supplies? My current power supply is EVGA and I did have to RMA it for a replacement which was painless, but right now I'm looking for an 850W unit and it looks like those two brands are both well-reviewed but quite a bit cheaper for similar units. Can't speak for power supplies, but my Corsair headset was replaced without issue (even from Greece). The replacement now has the same issue (earcup coming off) but their support was pretty good
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Sep 25, 2021 12:09
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PittTheElder posted:You can probably do it while it's still in the case. The risk is that you unscrew the cover and drop the screw into the depths of the case and then have to go extract it. I installed my first NVME drive last week and attempted to install while everything was still in the case only to lose the screw and have to take apart the entire computer anyways :/ YMMV DerekSmartymans posted:When I moved in with my parents we were on 56K dial-up, which actually ran 28.8 on our road’s 1935 infrastructure. We eventually ended up getting 1st gen satellite from HughesNet, and it was faster than what we had, we had a 20Gb data cap. Like 2 up/.5 down, but with 1000ms latency on a good day. I and my 7 y/o son played WoW, and I actually played enough to handle “Backstab” from predicting where a target was going to be in the next second. I did usually stick to killing casters with major-league burst damage after getting comfortable with my limitations, as ping above 1500 was normal. I downloaded a 600Mb Ubuntu 8.1 and we lost internet for almost a month because the cap was a rolling 30 day total and it was bad, since the only work my father and I had was on a (successful) eBay market and we ended up paying $150 a month for the extra 10Gb plan. This went on for a decade; nobody even watched any YouTube or Netflix, and even single-player games on physical media had mostly stuttering and huge lag because of ultra lovely DRM that required an always-on broadband connection checked by Ubisoft/Rockstar every other second to check if my DVD was legit. SplinterCell: Conviction was literally impossible to play even as a single-player game because of uncontrollable DRM. Wow this took me back. My cousin and I both lived with our grandparents in bum gently caress nowhere south Georgia and occasionally our Uncle would visit the place. Our uncle was super well to do so he bankrolled the hughesnet installation but for the year we had it we were hitting the data cap about 3-5 days early every single month. When LTE became affordable in like 2011 we just switched to one of those USB dongles, but that kind of sucked because we basically had to share a computer at that point. Fortunately we both moved out later that year - I went to college and my cousin got a better job... haha Now I'm so spoiled by 1gbps fiber that I can not imagine going back to those days... Anyways I'm impressed that you actually managed to suffer through online games like that. I tried playing counterstrike source a couple of times and just gave up on gaming online altogether. Fortunately though this was before the "always online" DRM stuff got really bad. I remember getting pissed when Blizzard announced that Diablo 3 would require a stable internet connection but it never mattered because I moved to the city shortly after it released. Most of the time my cousin and I would just play super nintendo roms on a hacked first gen Xbox with XBMC. Anyone here try the low orbit/low latency sat internet? I heard it's supposed to be good for gaming and I've seen a few people on the internet who live out of their vans and have the satellite equipped to it so they can game wherever which is pretty nuts imho. CerealKilla420 fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Sep 25, 2021 |
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Sep 25, 2021 16:27
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palindrome posted:SSD Chat - I've been using a Samsung 830 (SAMSUNG 830 Series 2.5-Inch 512GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive ) SSD with my ~6 year old PC for a while now. Performance is great but I'd like more storage I think. Are there any downsides to getting a 1-2TB Samsung EVO 870 while I contemplate a new build in a year or two? Ultimately I plan on NVMe drives with a new computer, but until I get a new motherboard/processor it would be good to know if this is just a simple "more storage" drive, or if the 870 EVO actually performs better with that 6.0Gbps SATA 3 bottleneck. Unless you’re getting a screaming deal, no reason to pay the Samsung tax on a 2.5”. Someone else may have a rec here as I’m not current on 2.5” SSDs, but I imaging you can do much better price wise. All that being said, do you have room for another 2.5”? I’d just keep the OS on the current drive and throw a second 2.5” in as data storage.
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Sep 25, 2021 17:16
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Hey, thanks for the input. I was assuming Samsung was the best manufacturer in the consumer space, if I can get same performance/reliability with another brand I'm not opposed, I'll shop around. I have some 3.5" drive bays open so I can fit it in with a 2.5" adapter plate. I was also assuming the 870 was faster than the 830 so might as well use your best drive for your OS, but I don't really mind reinstalling every few years anyway. Or just clone.
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Sep 25, 2021 20:01
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CerealKilla420 posted:I installed my first NVME drive last week and attempted to install while everything was still in the case only to lose the screw and have to take apart the entire computer anyways :/ Yeah I loved playing but missed every single FPS made for over 15 years that was majorly a PvP shootiemans. Some had a single player campaign, but I'm not giving Halo or CoD games $60 for a 4 hour experience. I can play Squadrons or Naraka with 20 ms pings while watching my AppleTV's Twitch app now, and the only time I notice any actual network speed is downloading Nvidia drivers once a month and occasionally buying a large game from a Steam/Steam-like platform. And even then I usually I get big downloads before sleeping that finish during the 2-3 hours of sleep a night I get.
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Sep 25, 2021 21:38
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palindrome posted:Hey, thanks for the input. I was assuming Samsung was the best manufacturer in the consumer space, if I can get same performance/reliability with another brand I'm not opposed, I'll shop around. I have some 3.5" drive bays open so I can fit it in with a 2.5" adapter plate. I was also assuming the 870 was faster than the 830 so might as well use your best drive for your OS, but I don't really mind reinstalling every few years anyway. Or just clone. On sata 6GB you won’t see a reasonable performance increase worth the headache to do it IMO.
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Sep 25, 2021 22:18
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Hi, I'm the lady in the bottom left corner of the pic in the OP, and I have questions about GPUs! My husband hasn't had a proper gaming computer for a long time now, and we are trying to build one for him. I understand that at MSRP, the 3080 is the current sweet spot. But given the current price inflation issues, I'm having trouble finding one under $1500 (from at least sellers that I understand to be reputable). Are cards around MSRP ever in stock, and if so, what's the best way to go about getting them? I've also noticed that the 3080 ti typically retails for not much more than the inflated 3080 price, so if it's not possible to get a 3080 under $1500, is it worth spending the extra to get the ti? The next question is about manufacturers, are there any that are more preferable or to stay away from? Thanks!
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Sep 26, 2021 23:10
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Oww My Eye posted:Hi, I'm the lady in the bottom left corner of the pic in the OP, and I have questions about GPUs! My husband hasn't had a proper gaming computer for a long time now, and we are trying to build one for him. I understand that at MSRP, the 3080 is the current sweet spot. But given the current price inflation issues, I'm having trouble finding one under $1500 (from at least sellers that I understand to be reputable). Are cards around MSRP ever in stock, and if so, what's the best way to go about getting them? I've also noticed that the 3080 ti typically retails for not much more than the inflated 3080 price, so if it's not possible to get a 3080 under $1500, is it worth spending the extra to get the ti? The next question is about manufacturers, are there any that are more preferable or to stay away from? Thanks! Among all the companies that sell graphics cards with NVidia and AMD chips, there's only one that still sells some at MSRP anymore: Nvidia themselves, their "founders edition" line. Nvidia only sells those through Best Buy in the US, and Best Buy only sells them in batches, once a month or so, and it requires camping overnight outside a store to get one. The next batch is being sold this upcoming Thursday. (edit: rumored but unconfirmed. signs point to it being the case though, and it lines up with their previous monthly drop dates) Aside from that, you're paying inflated prices. The stuff you see available for sale on Amazon and Newegg right now are from third-party marketplace sellers, aka scalpers. They sell cards for the same price as what you'd pay on ebay, or maybe even a little more. When a card isn't being sold by a scalper, it's still at a high price. The minimum going price for a 3080 right now seems to be around $1000, and those go very fast whenever they do become available (like, gone within seconds). To combat this, Newegg does their almost-daily product shuffle (starting at 11am eastern each day) where you can enter for a chance to buy a graphics card at an inflated but not terrible (usually) price with the added caveat that most of them will be bundled with other parts you may not want, with no discount. It's a crapshoot though since so many people are trying to do the same. The other option is to just buy a prebuilt. There are some open box machines on newegg starting at $2040 (they're returns). This is uncommon, they put those up at those prices recently and I don't expect them to last super long. ABS is Newegg's house brand for what it's worth. The cheapest non-open-box machine is that $2500 machine from Skytech that I suspect is quite decent. Newegg also has a PC building service where you pick parts and they put them together for you. They give users of this service special treatment, allowing them to buy some cards for the same prices as you'd pay through the product shuffle (they're marked as "hot items" when selecting the GPU). The pool of available cards changes almost every day. I've seen $1000 3080s through there (though there aren't any currently), and after adding the service fee, I've managed to piece together some perfectly good $2450 3080 PCs there (with more and faster RAM and a better CPU than the aforementioned $2500 PC). HP is also currently selling their Omen line of desktops with a 3080 starting at $2280, though you'll have to deal with all the bullshit that comes with big-name OEMs that don't use off-the-shelf parts. (edit: maybe don't buy an hp omen, actually) The 3080 Ti will give you about 15% higher frame rates than the 3080. It will make 4K 60fps gaming at max settings a bit more consistent than the regular 3080. As for whether that's worth it depends on the price differences and what you're willing to pay for that extra little bit of performance. Good luck. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 00:06
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CoolCab posted:sure, and it's first person This is awesome. Thanks One more thing. When I first started posting about building a PC I was told not to purchase Windows because I should be able to get it free. What is this about?
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Sep 27, 2021 21:25
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UmOk posted:This is awesome. Thanks Not free. Purchase it from lodge north in the thread in SA Mart. It’s like $15.
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Sep 27, 2021 22:25
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Windows is like 99% functionctional without any key as well. If you don't care about changing your desktop background the free one works fine.
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Sep 27, 2021 23:46
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My computer arrived from Newegg with the front panel of the case dented and separating away from the case and the top panel bulging out. Non-refundable! With any luck the parts are still okay and I'll end up building a machine after all when I have to move them to a new case.
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Sep 28, 2021 00:45
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Seyser Koze posted:My computer arrived from Newegg with the front panel of the case dented and separating away from the case and the top panel bulging out. Non-refundable! it's not refundable if it arrives damaged? what?
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Sep 28, 2021 00:49
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Seyser Koze posted:My computer arrived from Newegg with the front panel of the case dented and separating away from the case and the top panel bulging out. Non-refundable! Absolutely not. Not refundable does not mean not exchangeable. It just means that you can’t get your money back. For that level of damage to the chassis through a box (or worse, it happened before packing), I have large concerns about the integrity of other parts inside the system. That is a 100% exchange claim for damages merchandise or a charge back. Do not accept anything less. Your credit card would absolutely have your back here if Newegg decides to be lovely, and they probably won’t be because UPS or whoever will be paying out an insurance claim. Just to reiterate, the longer you wait the less they’ll take you seriously. You have like 24 hrs max before they no longer will believe it’s shipping damage.
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Sep 28, 2021 01:00
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That's what their site wants me to believe! We'll see what customer service saysPilfered Pallbearers posted:Just to reiterate, the longer you wait the less they’ll take you seriously. You have like 24 hrs max before they no longer will believe it’s shipping damage. Seyser Koze fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Sep 28, 2021 |
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Sep 28, 2021 01:00
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I bought one of these guys (current gen Ryzen, 2060 super for $1k) last time it came available from Walmart: https://www.walmart.com/ip/ASUS-ROG...WS764/717272914 After digging around on the internet a bit, seems like it has a B550 motherboard and a non-proprietary PSU. Just double checking here: there's nothing stopping me from throwing the god awful case away, putting the guts in a Fractal Meshify or something, and swapping out to a bigger NVMe drive, right? Assuming I'll probably have to buy some NVMe to USB adapter to clone the windows install.
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Sep 28, 2021 01:59
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If the parts inside are all standard form factors and designs as you're thinking, no there's nothing stopping you just dumping them all in a better case.
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Sep 28, 2021 02:05
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18 Dummy Juice posted:I bought one of these guys (current gen Ryzen, 2060 super for $1k) last time it came available from Walmart: Use something like HWinfo64 to get part details, or post internal pics so we can see and we can help. Is there a reason you want a bigger NVME drive? You’re likely better off just shoving a 2.5” in for storage and leaving the current NVME as is.
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Sep 28, 2021 02:16
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Use something like HWinfo64 to get part details, or post internal pics so we can see and we can help. PC doesn't ship until mid-October, but I'll keep HWinfo64 in mind. I was under the impression that installing games to the NVMe drive would be better than running them off a 2.5" SATA, and 256GB isn't much space to work with. Is performance difference between SATA and NVMe still relatively negligible?
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Sep 28, 2021 02:28
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For game loading, unless it's a particularly huge load you're not going to notice enough of a difference for it to matter.
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Sep 28, 2021 02:53
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Ok, I’m losing my god drat mind. I want a 4-in 2-out usb-c or thunderbolt KVM. 2 computers, each with 2 usb-c ports. Connect those 4 ports to a single switch that outputs 2. Switch between which 2 inputs (which computer) is connected. How the gently caress can I do this?
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Sep 28, 2021 04:52
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I mean even a single 2-in 1-out usb-c would work, I’d just double them up.
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Sep 28, 2021 05:14
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I know, CyberpowerPC kinda sucks, but they're selling a 3080 machine with an 11600KF and 16GB of DDR4-3200 for $1930 after applying the coupon code "SUMMIT" at checkout: https://www.cyberpowerpc.com/saved/1PP373, or $1635 with a 3070. These aren't the worst prebuilt prices I've ever seen. The open box deals I mentioned the other day are no longer active on Newegg, so the cheapest 3080 prebuilt there is $2500 with a worse CPU.18 Dummy Juice posted:PC doesn't ship until mid-October, but I'll keep HWinfo64 in mind. I was under the impression that installing games to the NVMe drive would be better than running them off a 2.5" SATA, and 256GB isn't much space to work with. Is performance difference between SATA and NVMe still relatively negligible? The difference is largely negligible, but so is the cost difference at this point. You should be able to toss in a cheap $100 1TB NVMe without a problem. Don't buy anything until you expect the board and verify that it has a free slot, though. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Sep 28, 2021 |
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Sep 28, 2021 05:17
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I know, CyberpowerPC kinda sucks, but they're selling a 3080 machine with an 11600KF and 16GB of DDR4-3200 for $1930 after applying the coupon code "SUMMIT" at checkout: https://www.cyberpowerpc.com/saved/1PP373, or $1635 with a 3070. These aren't the worst prebuilt prices I've ever seen. The open box deals I mentioned the other day are no longer active on Newegg, so the cheapest 3080 prebuilt there is $2500 with a worse CPU. Thanks for this and your other post. I ended up pulling the trigger on one of these.
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Sep 28, 2021 06:11
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