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Ethics_Gradient posted:I was thinking the horse float wouldn't necessarily be my daily driver, but would be particularly nice to use at home as part of a studio setup; since I rent (and will for the forseeable future, seeing as the median house here outearned me last year...) I can't do anything too permanent to where I live, and be nice to be able to drag it to my next place. But definitely want some more portable options - if I'm not happy with the bigger darkbox the next move is to import one of those 3 man ice fishing tents and lightproof it. There's another goon in this thread from Melbourne who dabbled in wet plate a while ago. Cant remember his username, something Student (Tim) Tbh the most favourable light conditions for landscape wetplate is bright overcast IMO. Nice consistent flat light just works a lot better. Sunlight can be done well but changing light conditions and high contrast scenes can be tricky to handle and require a bit more knowledge on altering developer formula and dev times etc. Anton Orlov gave me his developer recipe which is a bit more dilute and a slower developing time (30 sec vs the 15 i usually used) so you can stop it at the right time. Age of collodion, which salts and ratios you use, developer formula etc all play a role in how a plate will turn out, just like film. Old Reliable is a good all-rounder and you can use a Pulling method to bring down your contrast a little if you have a scene with tricky light. Anyway, for sure. Id love to go on a shoot and give some pointers. Ill find you on lff and shoot u a PM Edit: i bought one of those quikfish ice tents and it was a complete flop. Mine had infinite pinhole light leaks and no amount of effort managed to save it. I ended up tossing it to the tip shop. For general outdoor shooting that is just too impractical and laborious. A car or darkbox thats easily collapsible is much more practical. Take my experience as someone who hosed around with everything, the simpler and more compact you can keep everything the easier it is to manage and the more likely you are to shoot more becauze if something becomes annoying it quickly puts you off wanting to shoot and you end up wasting more money troubleshooting. KISS Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Jul 10, 2021 |
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Jul 10, 2021 07:36
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 A huge thank you to Sludge Tank for coming by troubleshooting/giving me pointers - it is a huge understatement to say he really knows his stuff when it comes to shooting collodion! He also put up with my little trashpunk darkbox:  We are making plans to head up north and do some shooting in the near future, definitely want to get the bigger darkbox sorted sooner rather than later. I am currently going deeper into the rabbit hole looking for a good/reasonable source of black glass...
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Jul 14, 2021 12:07
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That’s pretty dang cool.
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Jul 14, 2021 14:26
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President Beep posted:That’s pretty dang cool.
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Jul 14, 2021 15:37
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I love it when goons help goons. I shot with a goon today but we just ended up drinking too much coffee and sweating.
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Jul 15, 2021 08:27
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:goonmeet:
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Jul 15, 2021 09:20
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Are the focal plane shutters on 2000FCW cameras a maintenance liability? I would love the ability to shoot at 1/2000 s speeds, but I also worry about the focal plane shutter just dying or malfunctioning at certain speeds.
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Jul 15, 2021 14:28
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theHUNGERian posted:Are the focal plane shutters on 2000FCW cameras a maintenance liability? I would love the ability to shoot at 1/2000 s speeds, but I also worry about the focal plane shutter just dying or malfunctioning at certain speeds. Yes they are poo poo and the only reason to buy one is to use the 110 f2. The 201 203 bodies are also a nightmare so don’t buy one of those either
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Jul 15, 2021 17:11
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Thanks guys! I also need to burn through 4 more frames of Acros on my 'blad - would really like to develop what I've got and see if any of it's any good. theHUNGERian posted:Are the focal plane shutters on 2000FCW cameras a maintenance liability? I would love the ability to shoot at 1/2000 s speeds, but I also worry about the focal plane shutter just dying or malfunctioning at certain speeds. I was looking at one of those FP shutter Hasselblad's for sale back in uni and watched the seller put his finger straight through the titanium shutter. The memory still haunts me to this day.
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Jul 15, 2021 22:39
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Is the 205 tcc an exception to this? I read that the shutter was reinforced with something. The main selling points compared to my existing RZ67 would be (1) faster shutter so I don't have to deal with my 3 stop ND filter when I want to shoot at wider apertures in broad daylight with fast film and (2) a metered waist level finder, but both points are minor enough for me to just stick to the RZ67. I don't really care for the 110 mm f/2.
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Jul 16, 2021 01:46
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theHUNGERian posted:Is the 205 tcc an exception to this? I read that the shutter was reinforced with something. No its still garbage
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Jul 16, 2021 02:05
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Wild EEPROM posted:No its still garbage That's what I thought. Thanks!
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Jul 16, 2021 05:17
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Expired 160 NS from Wild EEPROM   Agfa Copex (an absolute bitch to scan)   
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Jul 18, 2021 19:12
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Jul 23, 2021 03:47
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Rules as usual, but that might be the single most uninviting table I've ever seen.
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Jul 23, 2021 14:01
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Has anybody shot Lomography's Potsdam Kino? The description says that it is "suitable for reversal processing in order to produce black and white positive transparencies". I am assuming this to mean that the film can be developed two ways, one producing a positive, the other a negative. Is this correct? If a lab develops the film for me, should I care about one process vs the other? Does the type of process have an impact on dynamic range, grain, contrast?
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Jul 24, 2021 17:38
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Unless you ask for reversal processing the won't process it reversal. They probably don't even to B&W reversal processing as it's another technique altogether from colour reversal and very few places offer it. If you did process it reversal you'd lose dynamic range compared to the regular process.
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Jul 24, 2021 21:53
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Cool, thanks. I'll still try out the film but let the lab develop it their preferred way.
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Jul 24, 2021 23:14
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The lab won’t process it reversal because it takes more time and they could charge you more and also because it looks like poo poo
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Jul 25, 2021 01:22
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Jul 25, 2021 23:33
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Jul 30, 2021 04:37
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theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Aug 1, 2021 |
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Jul 31, 2021 23:53
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Aug 7, 2021 21:01
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Aug 23, 2021 14:30
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Sep 11, 2021 22:12
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my lomograflock ships next month and I'm excited about it
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Sep 12, 2021 00:12
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I got my V750 shipped to me and forgot to told my old man to lock the scanner heads, so it was DOA and has been sitting inert for a year. I came across a reasonably priced V700 locally this afternoon to replace it so figured I'd take mine apart again and give it one more try this arvo and what do you know, managed to fix the transparency head! The downside is it's the ~*~JDM~*~ model (GT-X970) and getting the drivers to play nice with EpsonScan is tricky. Neither of the official Epson V750 nor the GT-X drivers seem to work, but the ones that come with VueScan work fine, as long as I'm using VueScan. Currently trying to see if there are any workarounds that'll save me the AU$130 for a VueScan license, but either way I'm thrilled to have it back and not be spending $450 on a new scanner. For some image content, have my first ever 8x10 shots (collodion or otherwise). I was looking for something to practice on and my landlord suggested I shoot this Victorian weather station that's been lingering in the shop for a couple weeks. They are obviously not great from a technical standpoint - the first one I shot on tin and hadn't realised the sun had come into view, and it turns out my uncoated 18cm Yamasaki Congo flares like crazy. It didn't bother me too much - it was a $35 punt I took on a junk eBay lens that needed the fungus cleaned and a lensboard made, had only planned to use it on 4x5 so pretty happy I also have an 8x10 wide angle.  The second one is a clear glass ambrotype I backed with cheap black spraypaint - I actually ran out of collodion doing the pour so coverage is extra bad instead of my usual bad, but the tonality of the silver + black is just  and I'm hooked.  At any rate my landlord posted a photo of one of the tintypes on his Insta with a write-up and it sold in a few hours, so looks like obsolete photo processes can be useful for selling antiques!  Here's a side view of the darkbox set up for shooting. I just use some big spring clips to secure the darkcloth to the bootlid, and that silver tripod leg you can see to wedge it open (the gas struts on my 16 year old Yaris are a little tired). The pull out thing I am probably going to upgrade a bit but it does work, those are tripod legs scavenged off another junk tripod. I was home most of the week sick from work and good for very little, so I spent hours and hours trawling through AliBaba and shooting off enquiries until I found a supplier of 2mm black glass that was willing to do something less than a full 20' container load. The rep says he sells to someone in the US using it for "photography" so pretty sure I've got the right stuff, but have ordered a sample first anyways to be safe. Pretty excited - the stuff is basically unobtainable through regular channels here in Australia. Google Butt posted:my lomograflock ships next month and I'm excited about it I came across that a couple weeks ago, pretty cool product. I would definitely be interested in a similar product for the Hassie back that shot the Square instax. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Sep 12, 2021 |
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Sep 12, 2021 08:43
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Sep 19, 2021 14:41
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 Rainbows and trees by terrence y, on FlickrHolga 120 CFN
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Sep 26, 2021 13:37
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Nice to see a Holga again.
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Sep 26, 2021 19:25
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Is anyone rocking a 75mm on 4x5? Curious how often you use it
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Sep 27, 2021 03:25
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Google Butt posted:Is anyone rocking a 75mm on 4x5? Curious how often you use it I've got a 90mm Super Angulon that I'm pretty happy with; haven't really had much call to go wider but I'd probably scoop one up if I saw a good deal. Personally I'd like something longer than my 210 Symmar for portraits and isolating bits of landscapes.
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Sep 27, 2021 03:55
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Google Butt posted:Is anyone rocking a 75mm on 4x5? Curious how often you use it I have a 65mm and it gets used about once every other year. My 90mm is far more useful.
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Sep 27, 2021 19:58
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I've got a 90mm Super Angulon that I'm pretty happy with; haven't really had much call to go wider but I'd probably scoop one up if I saw a good deal. If you know you want to shoot long, you're shooting 4x5, and you have the cash, it seems like the Nikkor-T telephoto set is really the way to go. I think it's a 360/500/720mm that share a front cell and you swap back cells. A complete set is expensive but if you just want the 360mm cell (and a front cell) they're about $550-600 on ebay. You're not gonna get a big tessar or plasmat whatever too cheap either - a 360mm plasmat looks to end up in about the same range, there's a Symmar-S on ebay for $650. there are other options too of course, but bear in mind that depending on your camera, you may run out of bellows draw at some point, and tele lenses reduce the required bellows draw. Most of the older telephotos are kinda trash but they're also cheap enough, the nikkors are the modern option but a bit more expensive. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 20:41
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Today is probably the best day I'm gonna get all week for wet plate shooting so I am planning a trip to the botanic gardens. Fingers crossed I don't forget anything important! In other exciting news, I think I've pretty much fixed my GT-X970 (Japanese V750) after it got knocked around in the post. Had to take apart both the base and lid to get the scanner heads back onto their belts, and seems like the Betterscanning holder now needs a lot of calibration work. I've been doing 1/4 turns on the adjustment screws and am at 4 full turns and still not too happy with the sharpness, although it is getting better. edit: lol almost to 5 and still not where it should be. I am loathe to open up the transparency lid again though, so gonna keep turnin'. They actually are getting (slightly) better at 100% zoom, I promise.  Getting the stock Epson drivers working is a complete lost cause though (this was always at least somewhat of an issue with the GT-X970), looks like I'm gonna have to pony up for VueScan. Paul MaudDib posted:If you know you want to shoot long, you're shooting 4x5, and you have the cash, it seems like the Nikkor-T telephoto set is really the way to go. I think it's a 360/500/720mm that share a front cell and you swap back cells. A complete set is expensive but if you just want the 360mm cell (and a front cell) they're about $550-600 on ebay. You're not gonna get a big tessar or plasmat whatever too cheap either - a 360mm plasmat looks to end up in about the same range, there's a Symmar-S on ebay for $650. Thank you, I will add that one to my watch list; I've got an eBay saved search for convertible lenses but I imagine the real bargains will be the ones not advertised as such. Since I'm doing wet plate I don't *need* a shutter, but it's definitely nice to have. I am in the fortunate position of having plenty of bellows draw; I bought a Toyo 45G from Japan that came with a holey bellows, then scored a really nice deal on a second 45G here when I was looking for replacement parts. Thanks to the modularity of the system I can combine the rails, front standard, and bellows to give me a double-length 45G (as long as I remember to cover the bad one with the dark cloth). The extra bellows extension + collodion will make for some long exposures though. In the short to medium term I think I am going to cave and buy a Zeiss Jenna 300mm f/4.5 barrel lens for AU$300 or thereabouts (mainly for 8x10). I think they should be cheaper but it's been a couple months and I'm getting impatient. It's definitely not an ideal lens for 4x5, but at least I can swap it easily between the cameras - the Tachihara seems happy to take Linhoff boards, and one of the Toyos came with a Linhoff adapter. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 21:50
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Another gear question, anyone using a real hiking/backpacking pack with an ICU for your 4x5 gear? Please post pics if so, looking for ideas
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Sep 28, 2021 05:23
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Google Butt posted:Another gear question, anyone using a real hiking/backpacking pack with an ICU for your 4x5 gear? Please post pics if so, looking for ideas Back when I still used a ICU in my backpack, this was my setup:  Now I use something like this instead but it's no longer available: https://luminous-landscape.com/a-different-kind-of-backpack-the-rpt-p3/
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Sep 28, 2021 06:25
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Google Butt posted:Another gear question, anyone using a real hiking/backpacking pack with an ICU for your 4x5 gear? Please post pics if so, looking for ideas  Sure, here's my portable 4x5 setup from today  The camping tables go across the front under the bungee cords, had to take them off to fit through the door. Underneath the darkbox (in the part where a normal person would fit two childen) I have my chemicals, 4x5 Toyo, lenses, etc, with a few bits on the shelf below. The little plastic box to the right is what I use for rinsing plates at home and figured it'd be fine for transporting them on site - it leaks like a sieve out the top and I am a 100% idiot for not bringing my glycerol/water coating mix so I didn't have to actually fill it up with water. It was sloshing water everywhere when I had it on the lower shelf of the pram so I had to set it down, move to my destination, then come back for it. I have a local acrylic shop making me a custom unit that should actually be watertight.  (in its natural habitat - I took an angle grinder to an old refridgerator shelf to make the spines and used some Liquid Nails to hold it together. If you like DIY, you'll love wet plate) Even loaded up the pram is actually very smooth and maneuverable, and holds a tonne, but you can definitely feel the hills in your calves. I want to build a "Bastard Box" as most of the weight is from the darkbox, but the folding crate thingo it's based on is discontinued and out of stock everywhere so I might have to explore even more DIY ideas. Ilford just announced a portable darkroom but I have a feeling it'll be north of AU$400 and it doesn't look particularly quick to set up, or meant for outdoor use. Didn't remember to get a pic of "base camp" with the darkbox set up, but found a boring out of the way sitting area to work from that had me in easy walking distance of two things I wanted to shoot. I moved over to another area and started setting up for another shoot, but realised I only had an hour left before the gardens closed and it wasn't gonna be enough time to do much, so decided to call it. Apologies for the phone pics below, may have another crack tomorrow so gonna wait to varnish these ones:  This one of the French Memorial Fountain I shot on black acrylic. When I was getting the diffuser cut for my safelight I asked them to throw a few 4x5 samples in since it was really cheap once they already had the laser cutter fired up. I kinda like the acrylic even though on paper they're not much better than the black aluminium trophy plate most people use for tintypes: the adhesive on the backing paper is a bit stronger so I use alcohol to clean off the residue to be safe, and like the trophy plates they're not super reusable as they can scratch, but OTOH it's pretty similar to black glass at a fraction of the cost. Plus if you drop it, it bounces (as opposed to shattering like glass).  This is an alternative image of the same fountain, I wound up scrubbing it as it is my one piece of 4x5 black glass (sample from an AliBaba supplier) and I wasn't happy about the hole in the collodion near the main part of the composition. It was also heinously underexposed - I did a step test on a piece of glass that came out... almost as a normal picture? The only real gradient I could see was the initial one, so I did a 3s exposure, but wound up having to develop for like 30s to get an image, and there was some weird graininess in the shadows. IDK, maybe the sun trolled me and came out in 1 stop increments between each exposure or something. I just decided to wing it for all my other exposures and develop by sight, which I know Sludge_Tank is going to rightfully castigate me for.  The second attempt with the black glass after I cleaned it - I leaned back while I was getting the plate into the holder and accidentally let some light into the darkbox, which I think is all the crap around the bottom of the frame. 32s @ f/11 (was a fair bit more shady)  Deer scare/fountain thingo, 12s @ f/11 - not sure what that collodion artefact is on the rock to the left, rather interesting coincidence with the composition.  edit: I did this shoot full analog: found an old Soviet stopwatch on eBay for timing the exposures, and a 3m sand timer (marketed for helping kids learn how long to brush their teeth) for the silver bath sensitisation step. With my phone cut out of the process I found it a lot easier to focus on what I was doing, will definitely keep it up. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 10:19 on Sep 28, 2021 |
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Sep 28, 2021 10:02
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might i suggest aquiring two or more goats for travel instead
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Sep 28, 2021 10:56
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Google Butt posted:might i suggest aquiring two or more goats for travel instead My dream is actually Mule Team 6 
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Sep 28, 2021 11:19
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