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Pierzak posted:So, how do you clean an airbrush if that happens and the airbrush isn't cheap enough to just chuck into trash and buy a new one? I'm guessing hardware store lacquer thinner or acetone would probably work well.
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Sep 26, 2021 23:30
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There's this stuff called Airbrush Restorer, professional spray painters (like cars and such) use it for their paint guns. You can't soak the whole brush in it (it will destroy the inner seals), but you can soak all the metal hardware. and then apply it to the bowl and barrel of the main body with a q-tip or something.
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Sep 26, 2021 23:32
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Bucnasti posted:There's this stuff called Airbrush Restorer, professional spray painters (like cars and such) use it for their paint guns.
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Sep 26, 2021 23:43
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I have silicone gaskets in the Cones of my single action Paasche, and they sit in toluene for extended periods. Have been doing it for years and the seals still work just fine. I've done a visual inspection of them and they still look like new. Now a rubber gasket, that's going to be goop after a few minutes of toluene.
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Sep 26, 2021 23:57
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Midjack posted:We did one a few years ago at my group where we got a large Gundam kit and everyone got an arm, leg, head, chest and fully built/modded their part with zero communication then we put the pieces together at the end. You can see the result at 3:20 here: This rules.
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Sep 27, 2021 00:12
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Slugworth posted:Yeah, that helps a ton. I've bookmarked that page for future use, it seems fairly straightforward (though I don't imagine I've got the patience to do as many steps as he does). I tried to do rings around the cupolas and raised areas with the dry pigments, but I think the effect is a lot more realistic with the oil rendering. I can see what you're talking about regarding the cupolas, etc. The unfortunate thing about the weathering powder applicator is that it can't really get into tight corners, so to me, the uses are pretty limited. Go to any hobby store and grab a tube of burnt umber oil paint (not the water-soluble stuff, it doesn't blend as well) and some thinner. Then go to town on your next green tank using Rinaldi's OPR method. Feel free to ask me if you have any questions too.  Pierzak posted:So, how do you clean an airbrush if that happens and the airbrush isn't cheap enough to just chuck into trash and buy a new one? Charliegrs posted:I'm guessing hardware store lacquer thinner or acetone would probably work well. ^^This. Because it's cheap, I use the house-brand lacquer thinner from Lowes for pretty much any airbrush cleanup, between colors, after finishing for a day (usually...  ), and for bullshit like what happened today. I took the rubber seals out and soaked it while I ate dinner, then attacked the In other news, I spent the bulk of the day cleaning and re-organizing my workroom and in the process, my wife recommended/authorized a pretty major upgrade. She's pretty awesome. Chuck_D fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 01:50
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Next up on the bench for me will be the following: It's only the second bike kit I've ever done and I'm looking forward to it. Just have to wait for the detail parts and the colour matched paint to turn up in the mail. Being the hobby design detail up parts though the one thing I'm not looking forward to will be the chain cause its 100 roller pins sandwhiched between 2 pieces of photoetch with individual links on the outside. I attempted it on the last bike I built and it ended up in a pile of frustration with superglue all over the place and some bent photoetch.
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Sep 27, 2021 03:14
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RillAkBea posted:Speaking of tracks again though, my first ever workable track link set just arrived looking like a delicious box of crackers. Finally getting to the point where I can start putting these together and they look so much better than the included rubber tracks, it's definitely going to be worth the effort.   8 down, 148 to go 
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Sep 27, 2021 13:06
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RillAkBea posted:Finally getting to the point where I can start putting these together and they look so much better than the included rubber tracks, it's definitely going to be worth the effort. Those look really good. Glad the ones I did were in 1/16th scale, because there is no way I could ever have done 1/35th with my humongous fingers.
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Sep 27, 2021 13:25
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MarxCarl posted:Those look really good. Glad the ones I did were in 1/16th scale, because there is no way I could ever have done 1/35th with my humongous fingers. I've put one whole side together now and the initial cutting and trimming was by far the worst part, once the parts are all ready the included jigs make it a really simple straightforward process to put it together. I ended up using CA over poly cement because I trusted it a little more not to seep into all the wrong places (the contact patches between the front and back pads are tiny) and I only ended up with 1 or 2 stiff hinges so it worked out well.
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Sep 28, 2021 12:17
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A small update on the Honda RC213V. I got the paint set and detail parts today which is tops but also intimidating with the amount of bits. I spent last night decalling the front mudguard which has a couple of wrinkles that will hopefully disappear once I clear coat it.  
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Sep 30, 2021 06:27
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Is there a thread for model railroad? I kinda want to do my toes in but I have no idea where to start.
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Sep 30, 2021 07:00
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No. 1 Juicy Boi posted:Is there a thread for model railroad? I kinda want to do my toes in but I have no idea where to start. Our kind doesn't have a dedicated thread. My first, seemingly odd, question is are you in North America?
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Sep 30, 2021 13:11
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Sash! posted:Our kind doesn't have a dedicated thread. Yep, I'm in the great state of Pennsylvania And for some reason I was up til 4am reading about N scale layouts
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Sep 30, 2021 13:14
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Baronjutter posted his layouts here a few years ago too, though having a kid really cut into his free time so he isn't quite as prolific these days.
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Sep 30, 2021 13:18
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Midjack posted:Baronjutter posted his layouts here a few years ago too, though having a kid really cut into his free time so he isn't quite as prolific these days. He should make his kid into a train.
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Sep 30, 2021 13:47
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No. 1 Juicy Boi posted:Yep, I'm in the great state of Pennsylvania Trap sprung, foreigner! Pennsylvania is a commonwealth, not a state. Now tell us where you are really from.
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Sep 30, 2021 14:18
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SkunkDuster posted:Trap sprung, foreigner! Pennsylvania is a commonwealth, not a state. Now tell us where you are really from. I've spent 36 of my 39 years in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania or the Commonwealth of Virginia and I'm pretty sure I can count on one hand the number of times I've referred them as such. OK, so N scale huh. Generally speaking, you should (and people usually are right on this) avoid any sort of "train set" even as an entry level thing. They're not very common any more anyhow. HOWEVER, N does present you with an option that is somewhat different. I'll come back to that in a bit. Kato Unitrack is a fantastic product. It isn't cheap and temporarily locks you into their ecosystem, but gets you up and running without significant investment elsewhere. Stay away from virtually everyone else's sectional track. In the long run, you can worry about flex track and so on. But Unitrack gives you a super reliable and high quality option to slap something down on a table without having to build benchwork or anything yet. It really gives you an option to cut your teeth easily. And plenty of serious guys will use it on a permanent layout too. This is where the "train set" advice falls apart: in N scale, Kato offers sets. This are straight up hobbyist grade sets. This is entirely unique to N scale. You can't really do this in other scales. Kato doesn't offer a lot of sets, but they do have a variety of American equipment sets. You don't have to do this, if course, but I'd strongly recommend Unitrack no matter what. Even in HO. There's very few bad manufacturers when it comes locomotives these days, ever since the bottom fell out on the toy end of the spectrum. Usually, you drift more towards finding the type of equipment you want, then seeing who makes it. Get yourself at least a loop of track, pick out some equipment you like (don't worry about era or anything like that yet if you don't want to), and make it run on the dining room table. We all basically started there anyhow.
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Sep 30, 2021 15:02
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Sort of cut myself off there at the end: Once you're ready to get into building structures, adding more elaborate track elements, scenery, and such, I'd look into T Track. They are small modules designed for minimal benchwork construction, interchangeable, and can be placed on any old flat surface. A couple firms sell prefab kits for the boxes. They're well sized for N scale.
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Sep 30, 2021 15:08
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Make sure to put as many bike lanes as possible in your model city, I hear the community loves it.
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Sep 30, 2021 16:12
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What's up being being temporarily locked into a specific track ecosystem? Is there the equivalent of jailbreaking going on for the tiny train industry?
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Sep 30, 2021 16:14
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Similarly, trains are generally track-agnostic right? Like if I got Kato tracks but Bachmann trains, that should work right?
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Sep 30, 2021 16:30
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Yeah, the actual trains will run on anyone's track. Any manufacturer works on everyone's track and interchangeably. There's no hesitation or anything. Completely universal (provided they all have compatible couplers. This isn't as common an issue as it used to be, but can still come up). Track itself doesn't always play well with each other. Everyone uses different tie dimensions and rail profiles that require fine tuning. Any of the ones that have built in roadbed add in an extra challenge to interconnection. Where in Pennsylvania are you?
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Sep 30, 2021 17:08
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Sash! posted:Yeah, the actual trains will run on anyone's track. Any manufacturer works on everyone's track and interchangeably. There's no hesitation or anything. Completely universal (provided they all have compatible couplers. This isn't as common an issue as it used to be, but can still come up). Broadly in the Philly area. I'm not too far from Nicholas Smith Trains which I'm excited to go check out when I actually have money to blow
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Sep 30, 2021 17:16
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Hooray I now have an almost fully assembled rear half. The swing arm was a real bastard to get on and looks like it doesn't quite sit 100% correctly but I'm hoping when I add the rear shocks it'll even itself out.
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Sep 30, 2021 17:25
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No. 1 Juicy Boi posted:Broadly in the Philly area. I'm not too far from Nicholas Smith Trains which I'm excited to go check out when I actually have money to blow They have a good reputation and they've been around forever. They're pretty much the only major shop in Pennsylvania that I've never set foot in. But I hear good things. Is there anything specific that interests you?
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Sep 30, 2021 18:36
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Sash! posted:They have a good reputation and they've been around forever. They're pretty much the only major shop in Pennsylvania that I've never set foot in. But I hear good things. They're perfectly fine as a business, but bear in mind they're staffed by the kind of people this hobby tends to attract, and if they think nobody can hear them will start talking about how they hope California falls into the ocean or how people only take up teaching because they can't do anything useful (actual, real examples I heard).
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Sep 30, 2021 18:58
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Sash! posted:They have a good reputation and they've been around forever. They're pretty much the only major shop in Pennsylvania that I've never set foot in. But I hear good things. As far as trains go, I don't have a specific interest, but probably diesels Mostly I'm interested in the hobby for the benchwork and coming up with fun complicated switching setups and yards
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Sep 30, 2021 19:19
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I liek scalpels Edit: Ensign Expendable posted:Make sure to put as many bike lanes as possible in your model city, I hear the community loves it. Imo the crucial detail that makes a train table work is lizard men hunting boy scouts in the hills. I like when there's some whimsy that isn't just "and if you look in the window of this house you can see a titty." Ideally, you also include an accurate model of one of the arcologies from City in the Image of Man, by Paolo Soleri. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Oct 1, 2021 |
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Oct 1, 2021 01:07
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Hooray I now have an almost fully assembled rear half. The swing arm was a real bastard to get on and looks like it doesn't quite sit 100% correctly but I'm hoping when I add the rear shocks it'll even itself out. That looks really cool and I particularly like the colors of the frame itself. I was hoping to start painting bits for my bike today but it’s another stormy day so it’s on hold for now.
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Oct 1, 2021 05:50
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I’ve picked up modelling again after about 10 years as something to do during Sydney lockdown. Currently working on the Italeri 1:24 Australian truck - chassis and engine complete so far.   I also bought a Revell 1:144 Airbus A321. It is such a small scale that I’m getting my eye in with the truck before I go back to it. I don’t know how you military plane modellers do it.
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Oct 1, 2021 09:12
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upsidedown posted:I’ve picked up modelling again after about 10 years as something to do during Sydney lockdown. Currently working on the Italeri 1:24 Australian truck - chassis and engine complete so far. It’s looking good so far and hello fellow Sydney goon. Depending on how far you are from blacktown I’d highly recommend a trip out to sheriffs mini cars at kings park. They’ve currently got a 30% discount on most things as the owners of the shop ready themselves to retire but it’s not the end of the store cause they’re passing on ownership. Downside is they don’t have a website so buying from them during the lockdown has been a bit of a pain but they do respond to emails.
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Oct 1, 2021 09:44
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:It’s looking good so far and hello fellow Sydney goon. Depending on how far you are from blacktown I’d highly recommend a trip out to sheriffs mini cars at kings park. They’ve currently got a 30% discount on most things as the owners of the shop ready themselves to retire but it’s not the end of the store cause they’re passing on ownership. Downside is they don’t have a website so buying from them during the lockdown has been a bit of a pain but they do respond to emails. Thanks and hi. I’m not quite west enough to get to Blacktown at the moment but will check it out.
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Oct 1, 2021 10:51
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upsidedown posted:Thanks and hi. I’m not quite west enough to get to Blacktown at the moment but will check it out. I'm currently too far west but I work close enough that its a slight detour on the way home. They won't let customers in till the lockdown lifts at this point I think
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Oct 1, 2021 11:08
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I know this won't be very relevant to most of the thread but today I managed to get over to my local Yodobashi (i.e. hobby paradise) for the first time in too long and I was pleased to see they had pretty much the full range of Vic Hobby paints. On an international scale they're not particularly remarkable but they are Japan's possibly first ever line of modern true water-based acrylic paints. There's plenty of lacquer brands and inbetweeners like Tamiya but somehow nobody had gotten a proper water-based acrylic line going here yet despite Japan's love of tiny poorly ventilated apartments. There're very few businesses that bother importing the big international brands like Ammo and Vallejo (the latter of which has an exclusive distribution contract with Volks in Japan I believe) so they're quite rare and often very expensive. Tamiya/Mr. Color minis are 120 yen and sold in almost any store that deals with scale models, imported paints usually have somewhere around 50% markup on msrp and need to be ordered online or occasionally turn up in very well stocked shops. Vic Colors are 240-260 yen depending on the color for some reason, so they're not cheap and their distribution network is very small for now, but they do have some interesting qualities that made them worth it for me to at least try out. Vic is very proud of the fact that their paints are water-based and supposedly environmentally friendly, but what interested me more was the fact they need no thinning for brush painting and claim to be self levelling. They also come in dropper bottles, which I've always loved the idea of. I tried brushing some of their tire black on the tires for my JGSDF jeep and the paint feels slightly too thick when painted on but actually dries quite thin. You'll need a couple of coats to get a solid color but the levelling effect works really well leaving a very even surface and preserving all the detail on parts, very different from the slightly gloopier image I had of acrylics from working with Humbrol and Citadel paints in the 90s. They're also practically odorless which is a huge bonus for my living situation. I need to work with them a little more and over some larger surfaces to cement my opinion but so far I'm rather impressed. Disappointingly though their airbrush thinner is marked as toxic so you'll still need the usual precautions if you want to spray it. The color selection is a little scattered, focusing mainly on real world color codes (FS, RLM etc.) with very few basic colors available for free mixing so there's a definite military leaning. They do have 6 different flesh colors and 3 specific rust colors though for some reason. They also sell a number of color sets for specific armies and color patterns much like their international rivals and also a number of 'scifi' color sets for non-specific gunpla type stuff that aren't available as part of the main color lineup. Again, not really relevant to most people as I don't think they've started international distribution yet but it's an interesting new brand that I hope will gain some traction in the near future.
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Oct 1, 2021 13:53
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Sprue Brothers deal of the day is the RFM Pz IV G for thirty bucks, and that's pretty hard to beat. https://spruebrothers.com/rfmrm5053-1-35-rye-field-model-panzerkampfwagen-iv-ausf-g-sd-kfz-161-1-with-workable-track-links/
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Oct 1, 2021 14:35
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grassy gnoll posted:Sprue Brothers deal of the day is the RFM Pz IV G for thirty bucks, and that's pretty hard to beat. https://spruebrothers.com/rfmrm5053-1-35-rye-field-model-panzerkampfwagen-iv-ausf-g-sd-kfz-161-1-with-workable-track-links/ I just finished building this kit and that’s a hell of a deal. It’s a tight kit, fits all together pretty much perfectly. I have mine assembled with the Schurzen side plates not glued on as they stay on very well on their own. Also this kit has a lot of spare parts because it’s the same kit as the interior version just without the interior sprues or instructions. So some of the parts had to carry over, and you get some useful general purpose extra bits, like nuts and bolts, storage boxes etc. The track links are also very straight forward and are a breeze. The only thing about it is the 3d printed parts are extremely brittle and don’t look that much greater than the regular plastic ones they provide for when you inevitably break some of the hooks trying to get it off the mold. But overall this isn’t a big issue at all. I used the printed smoke dischargers fine then broke all but 2 of the hooks. Those are the only printed parts in the kit.
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Oct 1, 2021 19:20
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Well this kit is the opposite of all that: Nothing fits, it's old and not super accurate. I was super done with it long before I ever put paint on it. But the Paint Scheme is interesting at least ANA 2006 Base colors are done, next is Satin varnish, washes, and chipping 
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Oct 2, 2021 23:19
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Hey folks so I finally picked got myself a real airbrush compressor today. It's a a "No Name" brand (that's the name of the brand) and it has an air tank connected to the compressor itself. So my question is, I should probably empty the air out of the tank when I'm done using it right? And if so can anyone tell me how? The directions are total crap for this compression. On the side is what looks like a valve to let air out but I'm not sure how it works. Do I pull on the ring?  And on the bottom of the tank is what looks a plug that I could turn to let the air out. I think it just twists off  I'm a bit nervous to touch either of these things with a bunch of air still in the tank. Should I even bother? Of course I could just let the air out with the airbrush itself but it takes forever.
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Oct 3, 2021 04:30
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Charliegrs posted:Hey folks so I finally picked got myself a real airbrush compressor today. It's a a "No Name" brand (that's the name of the brand) and it has an air tank connected to the compressor itself. So my question is, I should probably empty the air out of the tank when I'm done using it right? And if so can anyone tell me how? The directions are total crap for this compression. Nevermind I figured it out. I pulled the ring on the red plug and it bled the air out. It was loud as hell. Anyway I figured I'd let you all know in case anyone else was wondering.
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Oct 3, 2021 04:45
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