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Thank you! I went racing for my birthday with our Lucky Dog team. Here's a quick dump and I'll add details as I have time. I'm a bit behind. Also random truck stuff. Random photo: Before I headed out for the weekend, I picked up a new project. Story soon.  Racing - we headed to the Ridge Motorsports Park for a enduro style race weekend. I decided to try taking the Tesla on the ~500 miles I would end up driving. Despite my previous hesitation about washing the car with our hard water, I said screw it and gave it a bath.  These two tools have made car washing just so much easier.  Race car loading.  100 gallons of fuel between the full tank in the cell and these jugs/barrel.  Unloading at track  Randy judging our fuel cell work in tech. Randy seems to be really into this build and like to check in with us. I think he just wants to drive it again, once we've worked out the bugs.  Race friends and cool electric cart.  Pit neighbors  Data!  Cockpit  Cockpit  Secure your bumper and don't yell at the safety crew. Tow hooks shouldn't rip off...  And here's where a wall of text interrupts the pictures. Since a previous race, there were issues with what was thought at the time, the rear brakes. Saturday the pedal would quickly go from hard to squishy once heated up. Drives reported having to pump the pedal and several hours it resulted in an off-track at the end of the straight. We brought the car in and started diagnosing the brakes. The rears were temping ~200F warmer than the fronts. Bleeding the brakes returned a clean, bubble-less fluid. We changed to Castrol SRF fluid, checked our bias, sourced new rear calipers just in case, and worked on improving rear brake duct cooling. This involved cutting dust shields, visiting tractor supply, buying a garden watering can, and making porsche style air lower control arm scoops. A supplier was also onsite with a trailer of overpriced spares - so 5' of 3" duct was purchased and hacked into place. There's not much room to actually duct the rear brakes. Sadly, this did not help with the issue at hand. Brakes  Brakes  Brakes  Rear brake duct  When my team member went out next, the car drove and stopped as long as he continually worked the pedal. He noted a noise at low load/rpm. When I went out, the brakes were soft and squishy, but firmed up after the next pump. After being stuck in several yellow laps, the noise previously noted seemed to get louder each ~40mph lap, esp under deceleration/shifts. Seeing as we only had 30 minutes left, I headed in. Upon returning to the pits, we found brake fluid leaking from the master/booster. A team mate noted he thought he saw bubbles when we bled in the reservoir - which is consistent with the seal failing. I believe we were inadvertently biasing the rears and cooking them - seeing ~200F hotter rear temps. We were still within caliper/brake/fluid temps. After dozens of phone calls and part searches, we discovered that our 1 year only Automatic master CYL was at least 1 day out... So we made a hard decision and called it. We don't gently caress around with brakes or any safety item. And so ended our race weekend, here's Saturday's sunset in the pits  Sunday we stuck around for the race start and packed in the morning. Here's the race start from up on the bridge.   Pit row  I did not take any packing/unloading pics. With the car back on the lift we found the trans mount moves when flexed (bolt holes oval'd?) and the stock rubber mount warn out. I've ordered a new poly mount and will reinforce the cross member. Check out how dirty our shiny new fuel system is post race.   I want to note, it was a great weekend and I really had fun minus the 15 minute stint ordeal. Everyone who wanted seat time got it and I was mainly disappointed we lost another day of seat time for our team mates. We've obviously made the decision to improve our spares - there's nothing worse than a $60 part costing you a race weekend. We're also swapping to the common manual trans 05+ master that's readily available. We took the risk on spares, live and learn. Randy stopped by Sunday and was disappointed we were out of the race - but happy to see us safe. The later half of Sunday ended with me working for ~3 hours to ensure a work install kicked off smoothly Monday. I finished that up with just enough sunlight to work on the truck for a few minutes. I used the tractor to hang the massive bumper back on the from. Note the lack of drips or puddles under the truck. I'm pretty happy about that.  My brother brought me these little Warn cube LED lights.  I temporarily put them on the bumper using the existing tabs. It was more for fun than anything. I'll probably modify the bumper. I don't want crazy light bars and such, just additional lighting when needed.  I took it for another short drive up the road to warm things up. This thing is giant compared to my little F150. Driving notes, the steering is awful and I really should get an alignment. But seeing how abused the rest of it was, I might as well buy new tie rod ends and linkage parts. Caliper is definitely dragging. It's still holding coolant and I'm short two quarts of AFT, but that's easy to fix. That will put me at an even 20qts dry!   Over the next few evenings I'll tackle installing the remaining parts.  Next challenge: Oh god the interior. How does a truck with 99k have this bad of an interior?!?!?!  A decent sunset to end the weekend.  the spyder fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Sep 13, 2021 |
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Sep 13, 2021 16:17
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Huge LOLs at "PORSCHE STYLE BRAKE DUCTS" followed by pics of a tractor supply watering can.
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Sep 13, 2021 19:47
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You should have seen my team mates poo poo a brick as I cut those out with the cordless angle grinder. Safety third! Hey I had my safety glasses on at least....
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Sep 13, 2021 19:52
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Oh right, fuel cell. So the last two races I was unable to attend had fuel issues - we would nearly run out. The team decided we were being hindered by the stock saddle tanks and we needed more fuel. I had bought this 22gal cell for $250 from a fellow racer after an unfortunate accident. We (mainly our awesome buddy who helps finance/host most of this nonsense) then proceeded to cut out the exhaust, trunk floor, and remove the stock fuel system. A radium surge tank was added and as a bonus we found a hydromat pre-installed in the tank. We also upgraded to the largest nozzle jugs I've seen outside of dry brakes - meaning we complete fueling in under a minute. (15-18 gallons). There's way more info, but I don't have time to parse it to this format. Something cool: we're planning on lighting the 3rd brake light via fuel level sensor to let the fuel guy know when to stop.  This required us adding a firewall and rerouting the exhaust.       I'm pretty happy with it. There's some minor improvements that need done, but it's worth noting we had 0 fuel issues and plenty of fuel during our 2 hour stops. Previously we were lucky to make 1.5 hours on fumes. the spyder fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Sep 13, 2021 |
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Sep 13, 2021 20:06
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the spyder posted:Something cool: we're planning on lighting the 3rd brake light via fuel level sensor to let the fuel guy know when to stop. I've been impressed by all the Radium stuff I've played with and hydromat is really impressive at getting every last drop out of a tank.
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Sep 13, 2021 20:38
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I'm reading that as the other way around, it lights the third brake light when the tank is full so you know to stop pouring.
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Sep 13, 2021 21:36
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm reading that as the other way around, it lights the third brake light when the tank is full so you know to stop pouring. This is correct - it's nearly impossible to tell you're nearing full outside of either really accurate tracking of fuel consumption or fuel pouring out the filler. There's no in-between. Our 5 gallon fuel jugs empty in 10 seconds or less. When fueling, you're in a full fire suit/helmet - there's a fire bottle on you at all times. Visability inside the trunk is basically nothing. The third brake light however is in your direct line of sight. The level sensor has a basic 10 point resolution scale, I'll see if I can find a picture. If we light it at Level 9/10 - that's enough time for a person to react and know there's only room for 2-3 more gallons. *We have also considered cutting a window in the truck and making the vent tube clear, with a backlight. That way the person fueling could theoretically watch the vent line. Right now we've had a spotter in the pits watching the filler neck to yell at the fuel guy. Definitely room for improvement. the spyder fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Sep 13, 2021 |
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Sep 13, 2021 21:46
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Why not both! On when full, off from less full until nearly empty, then on again!
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Sep 13, 2021 22:36
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I was going to suggest exactly that. Nice to know when you're nearly empty and NEED to pit for fuel. Maybe a big angry red light on the dash? Does the factory gauge work with that cell?
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Sep 13, 2021 22:58
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Seems like you shouldn't touch the brake light behavior while on track from a safety perspective. I mean it would be on permanently until refilled but don't want to confuse people behind you or get into some grey area in the rules (dunno about this portion but worth checking). Mega post rules though and glad to see the truck coming along as well.
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Sep 14, 2021 00:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm reading that as the other way around, it lights the third brake light when the tank is full so you know to stop pouring. Oh yeah that makes more sense. Splash and overfilling was always an issue, the faster you're filling the bigger the issue becomes. It's even worse when you top off during an unscheduled pit stop to check or fix something else. We always just had a really big spill pan, not ideal but it worked. With how fast you're filling being able to see the fill neck would be your best bet but a light or gauge of some kind showing relative fuel level would help. Making me miss enduros
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Sep 14, 2021 09:38
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NitroSpazzz posted:
A forum first 
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Sep 14, 2021 09:52
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Suburban Dad posted:Seems like you shouldn't touch the brake light behavior while on track from a safety perspective. I mean it would be on permanently until refilled but don't want to confuse people behind you or get into some grey area in the rules (dunno about this portion but worth checking). I was wondering the same regarding the brake light. Better to put another specific light near the filler, I think, to avoid confusion.
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Sep 14, 2021 21:41
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I should clarify, we have this neat LED brake light tape that integrates RED/ORANGE/WHITE rows of lights. We currently use the RED lights for the third brake light. We're considering lighting the ORANGE light, when NO RPM is present to indicate to the fuel person they're about to overfill. I'm not sure there's a point to light anything on track - the only reason you would run out of fuel is a leak. Nor do I think it would be allowed. We keep track at each stop how much fuel is added. We roughly know that we consume ~8-10 gallons per hour based on driver/conditions. A 1.5hr pit stop would mean a 3 jug stop in ideal track conditions. The best part of this car, outside of the handling and reliability... is the Race Capture Pro data collection system. Between the YouTube live video stream from a YI 4K camera and a the Podium app we run in the pits, we have a very good idea what's going on with the car. Well, when there's reception.
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Sep 15, 2021 22:41
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OK, that makes a lot more sense. Neat idea, in that case.
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Sep 16, 2021 00:04
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Farm truck and random dump. Details later. Maybe. Haha. Details: I'm just going to name this Farm Truck , in honor of both how beat it is and the 30lb of dirt I took out of the interior. I installed towing mirrors, bought a stupid $46 OEM engine cover that was missing, found a new-to-me tail gate with matching paint, and I've got a new front grill/lights waiting to be installed. I'm not sure what to do with the giant stereo system I pulled out. Isn't there some country song about two tens in the back? The interior cleaning was... thorough? I just gave in and pressure washed the inside and outside of the doors, door cars, carpet, everything easily removable. The seats were beyond grungy. I went full nuclear and just hit them with APC+ a scrub brush. It really helped- but you have to be careful as the APC stripes the dye. I washed everything with water when I was done. I gave up on the front seats and ordered new USA made Leather replacement covers. I'll install them at some point. Speaking of clean water, I started loosing it, again. Yep. Waterpump is leaking. Good thing I bought that new Motorcraft pump. I'll get it installed soon and add actual coolant. All I need is a 90's ranger 4wd ranger.                                            I'm trying to get my buddy to come get his gosh-darn-car. It's been fixed for months and it's now just growing moss.  I really need to drive this more... or sell it? I'm half joking, I'm not sure I could. But with these now a $45k car, there a lot of other cars I want to experience in my life.... who knows.  New old project, more on this soon.  EDIT- Did not mean to post these throttle body pics yet (thanks imgur!). But this, this is the best part of this entire post. I could not sleep at 2am the other day and started researching larger motorcycle throttle bodies I could use for my 20B. I can't recall what search found these, but the 10 year old forum post had measurements and they appeared to be what I was after. I did what anyone would do at 2am and took a risk ordering a set to play with. Here's what showed up - these are Ducati 999R or 749 throttle bodies. They are 54MM at the blades and they have enough meat to bore them out to 58MM. Same for the engine side, there's peanty of meat to remove the oval shape and return it to more of a round. We'll see. The external dimension is so close to 60MM, it's almost like it was made for this. I also found the 3pin plug for the TPS and ordered two in. For $70 a pair, I snagged another two pairs on eBay.     I took them over to my machinist and now I've got him all excited about cutting some housings. The issue now is I don't have $3k for tooling, fixture material, and housings to play with. So this will be shelved for a bit and I will pick it back up when the time is right. Not ideal, but a solid step in the right direction. Well, that and pressure washing the inside of your truck during a rain storm. Gotta love easy to disassemble 00's vehicles. the spyder fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Sep 23, 2021 |
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Sep 22, 2021 06:32
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What are those throttles from?
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Sep 22, 2021 12:27
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mekilljoydammit posted:What are those throttles from? See edit above - Ducati 999
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Sep 23, 2021 03:51
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Today's delivery - another set of $70 throttle bodies. These came fully assembled, wiring and fuel system included. Downside is these have some minor damage - check the photos of the bent linkage and mechanism on the throttle body. Still usable, but what can I expect for $70?    The fuel system is rated at 3BAR and the injectors are supposedly 24lb (need to confirm). **EDIT - double edit, looks like there might be IWP189 12 port 480CC (490?) injectors available - which would be perfect for primaries. More research needed. Though I do think taller stacks would improve power.** I wonder if I could run these as primaries? These velocity stack are pretty short. I'll have to talk with some SME's to get their opinion. MKJ - what's your thought? the spyder fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Sep 24, 2021 |
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Sep 23, 2021 23:26
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So there's IWP189 shower injectors on the later bikes that are 510cc/min at 3 bar; 1000cc/min of fuel per rotor should be all you need NA. As for stacks... kinda, for intake tract length it doesn't make too much difference if it's in the runner or stack. There's stack shapes that work at all sorts of different lengths. 450mm trochoid inner surface to end of trumpet should be tuned for peak torque at 7k ish, 400mm at 8kish, 350mm at 8.5kish... according to Mazda anyway. You can lengthen the runner to make up for a shorter stack, just be careful to make an airbox that goes through a big filter rather than those per-throttle pod filter things.
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Sep 24, 2021 00:18
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On the last 13B, S5 rotors, P-Port I helped put together, the 1050x's were not enough when spun to 11k. We upgraded to 1300x's, but that was with an outdated E6X Haltech. I'm thinking the stock injectors combined with a set of 1050x welded into the runner would more than suffice for a ~7500RPM 20b with stock rotors. Well, for now. I was planning on building these into a large air box like they are stock. I've got plenty of room for either a top mounted panel filter or remote filter, away from the heat. I really like how these are packaged in the bike and I'm hoping I'll have enough of the rubber grommets/passthroughs to reuse them on my custom box.
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Sep 24, 2021 00:30
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You guys know of any electronic throttle bodies of roughly that size? A friend is looking to build a full custom FADEC for a rotax 503 twin cylinder experimental and asked me just a few days ago, as luck would have it. I told him to try a smart fortwo or a twinair but we never got the dbw ones here in the states. E: looks like factory carb was 36mm bore kastein fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Sep 24, 2021 |
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Sep 24, 2021 03:07
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kastein posted:You guys know of any electronic throttle bodies of roughly that size? A friend is looking to build a full custom FADEC for a rotax 503 twin cylinder experimental and asked me just a few days ago, as luck would have it. I told him to try a smart fortwo or a twinair but we never got the dbw ones here in the states. I'm about to start stripping my twinair down to replace a load of poo poo and can measure the throttle plate assembly up and take photos while i've got everything apart if it helps. Hit me up on slack/PM to remind me when you see me start swearing about how much of a fucker it is to work on and to deal with turbo remanufacturers..
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Sep 24, 2021 17:12
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Interrupting throttle-body chat to note that the audio gear you pulled out looks like decent quality stuff, and if still working AND *installed properly* (the previous install was, well, not the worst, but not the best), should probably sound pretty good. I'd at least keep the Diamond Audio door speaker separates, provided they're not shot, and one of the amps to power those.
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Sep 25, 2021 00:03
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Darchangel posted:Interrupting throttle-body chat to note that the audio gear you pulled out looks like decent quality stuff, and if still working AND *installed properly* (the previous install was, well, not the worst, but not the best), should probably sound pretty good. I'd at least keep the Diamond Audio door speaker separates, provided they're not shot, and one of the amps to power those. I'm definitely exploring my options. I would like to keep the door speakers, maybe 1 sub. I've worked with some of the newer 5 channel amps, but finding an affordable headhunt with car play + channel outputs has been challenging. I'm planning on bench testing everything here when the weather changes. But right now I need to focus on that water pump.
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Sep 25, 2021 00:24
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Welp. You can for a limited time watch me be an idiot on YouTube. The owner of this car is in a care home so I decided to make some content for him. I did not say good content. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xp_MnYUiCwI
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Sep 25, 2021 22:21
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the spyder posted:I'm definitely exploring my options. I would like to keep the door speakers, maybe 1 sub. I've worked with some of the newer 5 channel amps, but finding an affordable headhunt with car play + channel outputs has been challenging. I'm planning on bench testing everything here when the weather changes. But right now I need to focus on that water pump. Someone posted a cheap CarPlay unit over in the car audio thread that they said turned out to be reasonable. I’ll try to remember to get an Amazon link to you. I plan to try it out in my Crown Vic. IIRC it was around $100-150, which is amazing for CarPlay, though the name brands have come down a lot, but I have no idea how the current constrained supply of everything is screwing that up. The Alpine in our Subaru was $300 when I bought it in July 2019. Edit: Hikity Apple CarPlay Stereo Double Din Android Auto 7 Inch Touch Screen Car Radio, Bluetooth FM Receiver, Mirror Link, SD AUX USB Input, Wireless Remote Control + Backup Camera & Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YWRPR89/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_753TK4YFX4B05WN4STDD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 $89, though it only has two-channels plus sub preamp outputs. That works for me, since I run the rear speakers from the built-in amp for fill only. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 20:17
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the spyder posted:Welp. You can for a limited time watch me be an idiot on YouTube. The owner of this car is in a care home so I decided to make some content for him. It's great content!, well shot and edited and you came across really well. I look forward to part 2! Please keep doing this! (but fix the crackly noise off your mic first) Seeing you go hardcore RX7 nerd has made me realise how normal people feel when I get going on classic Saabs or forward control landrovers!
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Sep 27, 2021 21:50
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Tomarse posted:It's great content!, well shot and edited and you came across really well. I look forward to part 2! Please keep doing this! (but fix the crackly noise off your mic first) Thank you! As it turns out, unless you’re in the wind you shouldn’t have the silly dead cat covers on the mic. I’m definitely one of those “my own worse judge” people, so I’ve got a small list of things to improve. Like remembering how to speak. Haha. You’ll be happy to know the next episode sounds better. I’m not sure how to eliminate the underlying hum/hiss? Another problem to solve for. I’m definitely more comfortable in the next one.
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Sep 27, 2021 23:04
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Let's talk wheel refinishing. The SHO wheels had to go on the project car. PS - anyone in OR/WA want some free 18" SHO weeks? I actually had his stock wheels from when he swapped on the SHO's. Problem however, they've been sitting behind my barn for 11 years...  Tasty!  Check out these 1998 tires. He bought the car in late 98, dealer must have installed these at time of sale.   Spooky, I guess? Had my buddy bust off the 98 rubber, insert some joke about stiff rubber here.  Here's why (at least what he told me) the wheels were replaced. Heavy brake dust and heavy curbing. This is actually the nicest wheel. I accidentally fixed the worst ones first.      I originally was going to drop these off at the local refinisher, but they are weeks out. I'd like to finish the car before then and get it listed. With ~15 minutes of sanding and profiling they look much nicer. Later this week when the weathers nice, I'll paint them and get the tires installed. Fastner chat: I finally found the large head M6 nuts used commonly on Mazda's. I just need to see about having them yellow zinc coated.  Ordered the $89 CarPlay deck RIPpaulwalker and Darchangel linked me - for the cost, I'll give it a shot.  Non car related, check out the cute directional boring machine they used to replace my internet line with. Went right under our giant trees. 
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Sep 28, 2021 20:06
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Would love some more feedback on that head unit.
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Sep 28, 2021 23:17
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Definitely. I've seen several people here speak well of it. I put off buying it for a few weeks, I'm definitely concerned about performance/quality. I might toss it in tonight. After an hour of sanding, followed by an hour of scrubbing with red scotch bright - I decided to I either need a really strong acid cleaner (ugh) or to just send them out for blasting/paint. We'll see. 
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Sep 28, 2021 23:25
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I love the stock FD wheels, I don't know why. They also fit perfect on an NC Miata and make it look ten times better. I almost want to buy an NC just so I can put FD wheels on it
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Sep 29, 2021 16:58
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I've always wanted to know, and your post just reminded me to look up how they steer those underground drills. It's another one of those things that's so simple and clever that it pisses me off that I didn't think of it. The bit on the drill tip has a big angle on one side. If the drill is spinning it goes straight. When they want to turn they just stop the bit in the right orientation and push. The angle on the end steers it in the direction they want it to go. The shafts are flexible enough to let it turn (within limits). All they need is an encoder on the motor and a display shows them how the bit is clocked at all times, without needing closed loop feedback.
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Sep 29, 2021 17:45
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LloydDobler posted:I've always wanted to know, and your post just reminded me to look up how they steer those underground drills. It's another one of those things that's so simple and clever that it pisses me off that I didn't think of it. I only recently looked this up myself. It's such a simple and functional design, I just wish they weren't $5k to even get them show up (no cost to me here, ISP paid for it). It would make running electricity to all my buildings so much easier. Another fun part of the design, when it's at the destination they replace the spade with a hook and pull conduit back through as they retract it.
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Sep 29, 2021 18:18
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the spyder posted:I only recently looked this up myself. It's such a simple and functional design, I just wish they weren't $5k to even get them show up (no cost to me here, ISP paid for it). It would make running electricity to all my buildings so much easier. Another fun part of the design, when it's at the destination they replace the spade with a hook and pull conduit back through as they retract it. That's awesome. The first person to show up with that setup must have looked like a goddamned wizard.
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Sep 29, 2021 18:23
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I remembered I had some Bonderite 33 (Alumiprep) in the shop and decided to give it one last go. 33% mixture, allowed to sit for 10 minutes, then scrubbed with red scotchbrite for 5 minutes.  Yea, these need media blasted. Well, I tried. Stereo update: Install went fine, wire size out of the deck is hilariously small - but given the output, appropriate. Though I can't seem to find a blown wire in my harness.  Here's the Ford 1.5 din.  So I did what anyone would do with a farm truck. Angle grinder to the rescue!  At this point I realized there's no cage... So I wedged it in there. I'm not happy with the install. We'll see if I spend the time to fix it later.  Overall the headhunt is nice. Menu is fairly easy to understand, touch screen is decently responsive. Who ever installed the system in 2005 gets a gold star from me, they actually pulled a third wire through the door, back to the OEM harness, and ran it back to the crossover allowing me to just swap wires and bypass the now-removed amp. Seriously impressed. Now the bad news - no sound from the right front speaker. I swapped crossovers and it followed. Testing components show the caps shorted, along with 3 other items in the picture. Now do I buy some parts for $10 or a set of used crossovers off ebay for $80.  I'm sure you're tired of truck photos, but too bad. My friend saw the tiny Warn lights and dropped of a NIB set of PIAA 5" LED lights. They still look small... I'm not sure it matters. I'm not trying to blind people. 
the spyder fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Sep 29, 2021 |
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Sep 29, 2021 18:45
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Your post is dead wrong my friend. We will never get tired of truck photos. Edit* Put a 26B in it.
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Sep 29, 2021 19:30
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Episode 2 is now out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBv-u_owDYQ I've decided to split these up going forward- what I consider a normal few hours of work ends up still being waaaay to long of an episode for Michael to focus on. I'll aim for 20ish minutes. I'm definitely learning as I go - like the "reduce background noise by x percent" button in iMovie....
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Sep 29, 2021 21:04
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For your nuts (heh) if they are already plated, you probably can just gold passivate them. I have a pile of bright zinc corner brackets that i use for testing whether my passivate solution is still good when I’m having issues. The concentrate isn’t horribly expensive from Caswell, but according to a guy who does carb refinishing on the internets, he just uses: 10 oz./gal sodium dichromate (eBay) 0.5 oz./gal sulfuric acid (battery acid - available at NAPA) Water Add sulfuric acid if solution is getting weak. Edit: oh, and yeah, you have to use a dash kit for Fords. It’s just a frame with the wedges to grab the edge of the opening, though. I guess I will be getting that stereo, too, just because. Does the CarPlay work correctly? That’s my biggest concern with it being so cheap. Usually CarPlay adds $100 to the same unit without it. edit2: I see some of the reviews for that head unit (and another cheap CarPlay unitI was looking at) note that ti is actually a tad bigger than double DIN. Why in the hell would you even do such a thing? It's not like DIN is a new, unknown thing... Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Oct 1, 2021 |
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Oct 1, 2021 19:17
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