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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Anyone got a hot tip on how to get the outside of my bottles clean? They take a beating on gravel and mtb and seem permanently covered in brown dirt no matter how much I scrub. maybe a mr clean magic eraser will do the trick
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Oct 1, 2021 03:48
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BraveUlysses posted:maybe a mr clean magic eraser will do the trick Yes and of course the obligatory PSA that magic erasers are just melamine foam: https://www.amazon.com/Dr-WOW-Multi...mine+foa&sr=8-3
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Oct 1, 2021 03:52
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Anyone got a hot tip on how to get the outside of my bottles clean? They take a beating on gravel and mtb and seem permanently covered in brown dirt no matter how much I scrub. I have gravel bottles for exactly this reason
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Oct 1, 2021 04:32
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:That's a very good point, thanks! They're very certainly the older ones, from what I can gather ~2010 based on decals. Trispokes own, and if that Fwoomp Fwoomp Fwoomp they make as the air compresses between the fork blades tickles that spot in your brain and the money isn't a big deal, gently caress, buy them loving trispokes. The LB ones are about $850 for the pair and I can guarantee the front sounds cool as gently caress (I only bought a front).
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Oct 1, 2021 04:40
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The forecast suggests only scattered showers tomorrow, and it'll be mostly dry until later in the evening. So, I re-did my route to make sure my rest stops appear as POIs and are in my cue sheet. Ride with GPS makes doing that a little complicated, but I have the hang of it now. I love having a half day on Fridays. I should be on the trail by noon. It may sound silly for a guy to be this excited to try a 50 mile ride, but in my 45.77 years, I have never really set an actual, well defined athletic goal beyond losing 50 pounds (I lost 130) and adhering to a gym schedule. And to think, it was the pandemic stopping me from going to the gym that all but forced me to buy a bicycle (albeit a comfort hybrid) that wasn't a Walmart special deluxe model and actually go out and ride. (My main cardio for the last few years has been recumbent or standard exercise bikes because years of obesity did some damage to my ankles and Achilles tendons. My doctor said "no impact," and once I asked if that meant just easy exercises because I'm an idiot, I knew it was bikes for me.) I have some Kind bars for snacks (chocolate peanut butter energy bar, and two lower carb protein bars--dark and extra dark chocolate, nut, and sea salt), some sports drinks that have what plants crave, and... well, the other usual stuff. tarlibone fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Oct 1, 2021 |
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Oct 1, 2021 04:56
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I hope you make your goal and have a great ride.
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Oct 1, 2021 05:03
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tarlibone posted:The forecast suggests only scattered showers tomorrow, and it'll be mostly dry until later in the evening. So, I re-did my route to make sure my rest stops appear as POIs and are in my cue sheet. Ride with GPS makes doing that a little complicated, but I have the hang of it now. Hell yeah, I remember a bunch of my first big rides, runs, hikes, etc. That’s good poo poo and you should post about your success in here.
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Oct 1, 2021 05:09
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1st rest stop at 25% of the ride. I planned for this to be just outside of a really good Italian restaurant I've eaten at a couple times with my wife. That, perhaps, was not a great idea. It smells amazing here. Edit: OK, adding rest stops was a great idea. Halfway point, about 1 hour later. Not setting any speed records, and the wind has picked up. 1 hour 9 minutes later, 76% on the dot. Here's a picture from Horseshoe Lake. 
tarlibone fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Oct 1, 2021 |
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Oct 1, 2021 18:59
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I'm considering doing some long-range touring. I've broken a couple spokes on my current wheels, so I was thinking of taking the insane plunge of building a set of bomb-proof touring wheels. I have already acquired most of the tools because I am an idiot, and I'm basically looking for a sanity check before I pull the trigger: My Bike: Checkpoint AL 3 Rims: Andra 30 - DISC - 700c - 36 Front Hub: SON28 12x100 ISO Dynamo Hub - Black, 36h Rear Hub: Origin8 MT-3100 Rear MTB Hub, 12TA x 142mm, 8-10sp, 6-Bolt, 36H, Black I haven't picked out spokes yet because my understanding is that I need the hub/rims in hand to measure myself before actually selecting which length of spoke (sounds like disc brake bikes commonly need at least 2). The dynamo hub is kind of a frivolous upgrade, but if I'm building wheels to last forever why not? The one I'm really questioning is the back hub, which was the only 36h/ISO/9 speed /12x142 hub I could find. I don't see any reason it wouldn't fit on my bike, but I've been wrong before! If anyone sees a reason that wouldn't fit, or wants to point me at a different hub, or advise me to do something else, I'm ready to learn!
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Oct 1, 2021 22:06
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looks like you can get hope hubs with 36-hole drillings. It's pricier and I have no idea what availability is actually like now, but it is much more of a buy-it-for-life hub
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Oct 1, 2021 22:22
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The Origin8 is a solid hub and will last many years of hard touring, but it's not a match in quality for the SON. Get swaged spokes in 2.0/1.8/2.0 and your spoke-breaking days will be behind you. Also, read Jobst's book if it's your first time building wheels. Edit: I also wouldn't worry about an ISO hub if that's what's holding you back, CLD is wonderful too.
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Oct 1, 2021 22:43
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At the very end, there is a tight little triangle on a hill that you have to navigate if you want to cross under a busy road, and my cue said "turn left" when it really meant to turn left later, so that SNAFU added a mile to the ride. But I did it. It was all cool until around 43 miles, when the final gradual climb began. I made it, but man, am I beat. Just got everything put away. Time to relax.
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Oct 1, 2021 23:39
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bicycles
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Oct 1, 2021 23:46
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ugh been almost a week off my bike I'm going out as soon as work is over
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Oct 2, 2021 00:01
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tarlibone posted:At the very end, there is a tight little triangle on a hill that you have to navigate if you want to cross under a busy road, and my cue said "turn left" when it really meant to turn left later, so that SNAFU added a mile to the ride. But I did it. 
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Oct 2, 2021 00:08
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tarlibone posted:At the very end, there is a tight little triangle on a hill that you have to navigate if you want to cross under a busy road, and my cue said "turn left" when it really meant to turn left later, so that SNAFU added a mile to the ride. But I did it. Great HAIL eSATA-n posted:bicycles Rides
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Oct 2, 2021 00:09
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Erluk posted:I'm considering doing some long-range touring. I've broken a couple spokes on my current wheels, so I was thinking of taking the insane plunge of building a set of bomb-proof touring wheels. I have already acquired most of the tools because I am an idiot, and I'm basically looking for a sanity check before I pull the trigger:  I built my first dumb wheelset (1395g shallow rims on a gravel bike) with a $15 stand and $20 aliexpress tension meter. Have thrown it down mtb trails and haven't killed them yet. Next set was a 1995g Onyx / Son / LB carbon set. Currently shipping parts for a 130mm fixed gear / dynamo build. DIY dumb wheels are great.
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Oct 2, 2021 02:35
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sweat poteto posted:DIY dumb wheels are great.  I built a set of aero wheels for dick wood on some old mavic hubs and aliexpress alloy hoops
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Oct 2, 2021 04:48
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Doing the Tour de Dumoulin tomorrow morning, only the shortest route (80km) but it's gonna be my longest ride in 3 years. Hoping the weather isn't too bad, seems like it'll be 18/19c but drizzly with some harder rain, which is hard to plan for. Should be home in time to watch the 2nd half of Paris Roubaix
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Oct 2, 2021 10:58
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The niggling is starting to catch Dumb questions and sorry for making GBS threads up the thread I have two options 1. Get a dedicated road bike 2. Change some sort of gearing on the drive chain I'm more inclined to option 2 because I like my step through, and I don't want to buy a second bike because space How possible is it to change the cassette to a different set? And is it feasible? Like if I find a high range , more sporty 7 speed cassette and just slap it on can I reasonably expect my cruiser to cruise just a bit faster and have a chance of catching up with the commutors on the bikeways or is my whole set up just too heavy and this is a fools errand? Or am I just trying to drag race a dumptruck?
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Oct 2, 2021 12:21
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Buy more bikes
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Oct 2, 2021 12:41
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Jestery posted:How possible is it to change the cassette to a different set? And is it feasible? Unfortunately the limiting factor for speed is going to be your front chainring in this case, your bike already seems to have a fairly low-toothed gear at the rear. You'll have to hunt down a crankset that will permit a larger chainring, will work as a single front ring, and not so large it becomes impossible to make it up any gradients you encounter. Given the amount of fiddling, the cost effective approach is probably to replace the bike entirely if you don't have space for a second. You can probably get something in a similar style that will still let you go faster, though! e: this is assuming that the issue is you're spinning out in your hardest gear. If not then the answer is to Pedal Harder. Gears alone will only make going slower feel easier, they don't make you go faster by themselves. Vando fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Oct 2, 2021 |
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Oct 2, 2021 12:50
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Vando posted:Unfortunately the limiting factor for speed is going to be your front chainring in this case, your bike already seems to have a fairly low-toothed gear at the rear. The current problem is that everything is rather crunched together and a bit high, my lowest gear being higher than optimal , but then going through all my gears quite quickly. Lovely for a leisure ride on the boardwalk but , sub-optimal for getting about town Maybe I need to ride a road bike around , it's been over a decade so I might just be having unrealistic expectations with no reference frame Looks like the short term solution is to just to pedal harder for now Ty
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Oct 2, 2021 13:04
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You'll notice the biggest difference in speed because of tires and your position on the bike. The difference between a bolt-upright position (like a cargo bike) and a classic drop bar position is huge. Even on a dedicated road bike, changing your position can lead to something like 15% difference in speed with the same power applied, when going fast: Same with tires: rolling resistance can be changed by a factor of 3 or 4 by changing out 'city'-type tires with dedicated road tires. I'd say in order of importance in going faster: 0. Personal fitness 1. Position on the bike 2. Tires 3. Aerodynamics of the bike frame and wheels 4. Total weight 5. Drivetrain (if you're not spinning out)
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Oct 2, 2021 13:11
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Jestery posted:How possible is it to change the cassette to a different set? And is it feasible? Changing a cassette is trivially easy on its own, but. If you want both lower and higher gears, that’d probably require a new derailleur too. And I’m not sure what the maximum range you can get on a 7 speed is anyway. Changing the drivetrain entirely to have more gears / a double front chainring may necessitate new wheels (hubs anyway) and quickly become not worth it vs. buying a used road bike. No-one moderately interested in sporty performance has used a bike with less than 9-10-11 gears on the cassette for decades.
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Oct 2, 2021 20:09
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Are CST Cultivators any good? I mentioned wanting to try some fatter tars on my commuter to a friend and he offered me a set of 32s.
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Oct 2, 2021 20:14
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Are CST Cultivators any good? I mentioned wanting to try some fatter tars on my commuter to a friend and he offered me a set of 32s. No. Cheng Shin Tire make good tires, but they're not sold under the CST name. They're cheap tires that would come with the bike with the expectation the rider would change them in a year. E: I mean, try them out if they're free, sure, they won't kill you, but they won't feel as nice or be as fast as proper good tires. SimonSays fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Oct 2, 2021 |
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Oct 2, 2021 21:31
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Yeah I’m pretty sure these are takeoffs from a wheelset he got. I guess my bigger question is will trying out wide tires with a low quality model make me think fat tires suck or will they make me say “hey I like this, let’s get some better ones?” He also offered me some “cheap 32s with smooth tread,” make and model unknown to me till I hear back. I assume they’re similar takeoffs from a wheelset or bike he bought. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Oct 2, 2021 |
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Oct 2, 2021 21:50
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wooger posted:Changing a cassette is trivially easy on its own, but. Shimano derailleurs up to 9 speed had the same motion ratio, so could get a 9 spd MTB RD if you wanted to go wide range, but yeah, would need to change cassette and shifter. 11-34 was available for 7 speed, and the limited info I found for the Pedal Uptown bike shows it's got a Tourney TY300, which can handle the 34t. I can't tell for sure if the bike is freewheel or freehub, which means you might never be able to upgrade past 7 speed.
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Oct 2, 2021 22:14
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Yeah I’m pretty sure these are takeoffs from a wheelset he got. I guess my bigger question is will trying out wide tires with a low quality model make me think fat tires suck or will they make me say “hey I like this, let’s get some better ones?” These are cyclocross tyres, and your friend is going to cause you a world of puncture pain - if you want cheap but reliable wider tyres for a bad road/gravel commute then go with continental contact or regular marathon with green guard and slime in your inter tubes. Check ebay for pairs, you tend to find a lot of unused shed tyres that people have bought on sale and never used.
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Oct 2, 2021 22:21
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Samopsa posted:You'll notice the biggest difference in speed because of tires and your position on the bike. The difference between a bolt-upright position (like a cargo bike) and a classic drop bar position is huge. Even on a dedicated road bike, changing your position can lead to something like 15% difference in speed with the same power applied, when going fast: Crr increases linearly with speed. Air resistance = square. Going from box section wheels to 50mm deep carbon will be a bigger gain than tires past about 12mph or so, but also cost way, way more. Also let's not forget wearable items. An aero road helmet is huge, a nice fitting roadsuit or skinsuit are huge. Even $30 aero socks are big. Total weight matters less than just about everything. For example the difference between a GP4000SII and GP5000 on a 5% grade is equivalent to +1kg. Even on a 10% grade, it's +500g. So my rankings, weighted based on practicality are: 1. Ride your bike, get fit 2. Get a fit 3a. Tires 3b. Aero helmet, apparel 4. Maintain your drivetrain...use an efficient/clean lube 5. Aero drop bars 6. Wheels 7. Frame
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Oct 3, 2021 00:12
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Thankyou very much for the help people I'll probably keep my cruiser and get a road /gravel/tourer for getting places quickly that is designed to do so Edit: I had a ride back from the city today and managed a 15kph average by pushing significantly harder than before, and doing my best to be more aerodynamic, this is buoying and has me a little happier  thanks again thread
Jestery fucked around with this message at 10:19 on Oct 3, 2021 |
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Oct 3, 2021 00:27
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e.pilot posted:I have gravel bottles for exactly this reason Like this?  If so, are they better than ones with a big cap like this?  Even with fenders I get some dirt on the bottles. No matter if it's local dog poo poo or trail sheep poo poo, I want to keep my fecal intake to an absolute minimum.
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Oct 4, 2021 11:28
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No they’re just bottles I don’t mind getting all beat to absolute gently caress with dirt permanently ground into them.
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Oct 4, 2021 11:38
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Have any of you made the jump to SRAM eTap? I'm looking at the Rival eTap AXS since it goes for about the price of the an Ultegra group and it comes with a power meter. Is this electronic shifting thing a fad? Am I looking for problems since there are no actual problems with modern shifting cable systems?
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Oct 4, 2021 21:24
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Definitely not a fad. SRAM have abandoned their mechanical groups. Shimano have ended mech above 105.
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Oct 4, 2021 21:48
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I used to be very skeptical until I tried electrical shifting once, both SRAM and Shimano. Coming from the current gen 105, which is a solid group set, I was like holy poo poo, I want this for my next bike. It’s just super fast and feels extremely precise.
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Oct 4, 2021 22:22
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osker posted:Have any of you made the jump to SRAM eTap? I'm looking at the Rival eTap AXS since it goes for about the price of the an Ultegra group and it comes with a power meter. Is this electronic shifting thing a fad? Am I looking for problems since there are no actual problems with modern shifting cable systems? AXS owns OP, and you should get it.
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Oct 4, 2021 22:43
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osker posted:Have any of you made the jump to SRAM eTap? I'm looking at the Rival eTap AXS since it goes for about the price of the an Ultegra group and it comes with a power meter. Is this electronic shifting thing a fad? Am I looking for problems since there are no actual problems with modern shifting cable systems? I have eTap on one bike. The one annoyance I have with it is that because it's only on one bike that doesn't get ridden that frequently, I often forget to charge the batteries. Hasn't left us completely stranded yet, but I won't be surprised when it happens.
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Oct 4, 2021 22:43
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Electronic shifting is wonderful, and it also makes it much easier to do stuff like pack the bike away - no worrying about cable tension, just screw the rear mech back in and plug in the cable and away you go pretty much.
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Oct 4, 2021 23:10
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