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Rakeris posted:My wife is going all in on plant things, and wants either a rain barrel or a RO system, not messed with RO systems for over a decade, I can't imagine they have changed a lot. But I see a lot of them on craigslist/marketplace for <$50 anything I should look for when picking up a used one cheap? As that seems like the best year round setup. Waste water from the AC in the summer and wtvr I can get setup for the winter is the idea. What are these sources again, because condensate isn't gonna make much water? And what do you intend to use the water for? Because RO still has all the same issues. You're losing at least 1/4 of the water to waste, often much more. It's literally stripped of almost everything so it tastes flat, sucks for cooking, etc. The only thing I know of as good uses of RO are fish tanks (where you are adding back in whatever mineral package you need) and flooded lead acid batteries.
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Sep 25, 2021 02:02
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Bad Munki posted:Called a plumber out because I don’t like to mess with plumbing that’ll be sealed up behind a wall. Water damage is an insidious bastard. Plus, he has the $500 tool. Old drain capped, new drain being run to where the sink was, and sloped correctly. Old sink water lines removed, new water lines on their way. I'm not super up on this stuff, but it looks like the new sink drain over where the urinal was is wet vented by the other drain (looks like a sink in a different room) coming into the stack with those two stacked sanitary tees on the far left of the photo. And based on the markings on the lateral runs, that appears to be 1.5" pipe everywhere, which I didn't think was kosher to wet vent with no matter the situation. Someone smarter than me can probably clarify why I'm wrong here, but it doesn't look right based on my cursory understanding of wet venting. ROJO fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Sep 25, 2021 |
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Sep 25, 2021 05:58
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Based on my reading, 1.5 is okay for one or two sinks. This is serving exactly one, so should be okay?
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Sep 25, 2021 14:00
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Motronic posted:What are these sources again, because condensate isn't gonna make much water? And what do you intend to use the water for? The condensate is from the AC, it makes a few gallons a day when the AC is running. Which is fine for the summer, not so much in the winter. She wants it for plants, as it's supposedly better for plants. Yeah I know there is a decent amount of waste from RO, I was doing some googling and I guess there are countertop water distillers too? I'll probably look into those as well.
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Sep 25, 2021 15:24
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Bad Munki posted:Based on my reading, 1.5 is okay for one or two sinks. This is serving exactly one, so should be okay? Yeah, I was more curious about the sizing of the vent vs. the trap arm, since it is wet vented by a fixture in another room it appears. But that may be a 2" vent (and the 'wet' section is basically just the area between the two Tees), hard to tell now that I look at it again. Regardless, it looks to have been part of the existing work, not something the OP was screwing with currently. edit: and to be clear, I'm not trying to bag on someone else's plumbing install - god knows some of mine are questionable - more just wanted to talk through the situation to learn ROJO fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Sep 25, 2021 |
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Sep 25, 2021 16:31
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Yeah, I just assume the guy I hired did it right, they’re a good company and not some fly-by-night rando. But you never know. And I’d rather it get questioned now rather than in a year or two when there’s damage. You’re right that it catches from another room, there’s a sink on the other side of that wall. Previously, two sinks fed into that arrangement. We removed the sink in this room and moved it to the other end. So really, nothing was changed, except one of the drains dropped down one fitting and turned sideways 90 in order to feed from a slightly different location. So, assuming it was up to code before(?????? not guaranteed, not at all, in this house), it should still be up to code now? I hope? 
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Sep 25, 2021 17:16
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Dumb noob question: Is the hole in the bathroom floor for a toilet a standardized size? I put a big rear end chip in the bowl of mine. A couple of days ago I saw a toilet* on the curb and picked it up, thinking I could replace mine with it. I don't want to start a project and realize I've got a size 4 when I need a size 6 or whatever. I'm in the US if that matters. *It was clean. And then I cleaned it again.
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Sep 26, 2021 00:59
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deoju posted:Dumb noob question: Is the hole in the bathroom floor for a toilet a standardized size? Yes, in most cases the flanges are standardized. The biggest issue is typically if the flange is damaged, but that's a risk you always take replacing a toilet. You never know until you pull the old one, but 95% of the time, it's no issue. How old is the house/original toilet?
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Sep 26, 2021 01:18
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B-Nasty posted:Yes, in most cases the flanges are standardized. The biggest issue is typically if the flange is damaged, but that's a risk you always take replacing a toilet. You never know until you pull the old one, but 95% of the time, it's no issue. How old is the house/original toilet? I'm not sure, it's a rental. I'd like to replace it myself so the landlord doesn't bone me. The linoleum floor is at least 20 years old, so its been at least that long since it was replaced or worked on. I don't see or feel any moisture around the base so that is good.
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Sep 26, 2021 02:04
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You should not be working on a rental.
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Sep 26, 2021 02:07
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Ordinarily, yes. But I don't want to sacrifice my security deposit for what what is essentially cosmetic damage. It's a question of doing it myself on a Saturday afternoon or leaving up to my landlord to charge me whatever the gently caress they want. deoju fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Sep 26, 2021 |
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Sep 26, 2021 02:32
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Replacing a toilet is potential grounds to deny your security deposit because I'm sure your lease stipulates this exact thing somewhere. The liability potential is through the roof. Don't touch it unless your landlord approves this IN WRITING.
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Sep 26, 2021 03:02
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deoju posted:Ordinarily, yes. But I don't want to sacrifice my security deposit for what what is essentially cosmetic damage. You don't have experience doing this, you don't own the property, doing it wrong can cause multiple thousands of dollar in damage.
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Sep 26, 2021 03:02
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OK. I'm dumb. You're right.
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Sep 26, 2021 03:12
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deoju posted:It's a question of doing it myself on a Saturday afternoon or leaving up to my landlord to charge me whatever the gently caress they want. And when your landlord finds you've replaced the original toilet with a Found Treasure that he doesn't want in there, and decides to charge you whatever the gently caress they want?
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Sep 26, 2021 03:57
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We were just quoted $1850 to perform a hydroflush of our main lateral sewer line. It’s partially clogged (not fully). Was I right to tell them to gently caress off? I was expecting a markup but this is like over 4x what I was expecting. Is this normal nowadays or did they try to screw us over? I’m going to get more quotes but it’s Sunday so it’s slow. Luckily it’s not an emergency quite yet so we can hold off a day and just extra conserve water
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Sep 26, 2021 21:33
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We had to have about a 70ft section hydrojetted and it was around 400 for the first 1.5 hours and like 100 per for any additional hours iirc. Only took em like an hour or so. Had it done earlier this year or maybe late last year?
Rakeris fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Sep 26, 2021 |
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Sep 26, 2021 22:25
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Talked to a neighbor and we had the job done for $500 by his guy that he uses. They even did a free video cam, which the other place wanted an additional $425 (total was like $2400 that they wanted) The crazy part of this is we’ve spent literally thousands of dollars with the old place, and they just did us dirty without even blinking.
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Sep 26, 2021 23:34
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So they were going to jet it and not even check with a camera to make sure they got it all unless you paid them extra? Jeesh. Yeah had places do that to me, had a roofing co that I had used a number of times and was always reasonable, called em out for a couple hundred $ job and quoted me almost 2k, and I was wtf? Doubled down with that was as cheap as they could do it cause reasons, had another dude do it for 150$ 
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Sep 27, 2021 00:26
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mitztronic posted:We were just quoted $1850 to perform a hydroflush of our main lateral sewer line. It’s partially clogged (not fully). I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that it was a national plumbing chain, probably Roto-Rooter.
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Sep 27, 2021 02:12
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PainterofCrap posted:I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that it was a national plumbing chain, probably Roto-Rooter. Actually a local company we’ve used for 7-8 years. 5 star rated on Yelp/google/etc. we’ve done a water heater, multiple repairs, clogs, etc through them, always did a great job, but this is not excusable.
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Sep 27, 2021 06:34
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Last March I moved into a new house and three days later the fitting going into the pitless adapter popped. We dug it up, fixed all that, and now I think the submersible pump is going. I'm looking for a sanity check here before I bring in the Well Dudes. They've quoted ~ $17,000 for a 500 foot well with new 2 wire pump and controller. When I close the ball valve after the pressure tank to isolate the house, I lose about 1 psi of pressure every minute. It goes from 60 to 40 psi in about 15 minutes then the pump kicks back on. Short of pulling the pump is there anything I can do? It's 360 ft down right now so it's not a job I'm going to tackle.
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Sep 27, 2021 17:22
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Your best bet is to do whatever you can to make the well accessible to the pump guys. They'll probably be charging by the hour, so do whatever you can to make it so they can just pull up, raise the tower on their pump hoist, and get to work. I'm not a water well driller, but I know like one or two things about water wells. If you're losing psi, maybe its a leak in the line somewhere between the pump and pressure tank, or maybe a check valve somewhere. If you poo poo the pup breaker off, does the pressure go right to zero eventually?
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Sep 27, 2021 21:50
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wesleywillis posted:Your best bet is to do whatever you can to make the well accessible to the pump guys. They'll probably be charging by the hour, so do whatever you can to make it so they can just pull up, raise the tower on their pump hoist, and get to work. It will eventually go to zero. I pulled the cap after work today and I can see a misty cloud emitting from the pitless adapter. Mid summer we had the well cap lengthened and the well dudes had to lift out the pitless. I'm going to call them tomorrow and see if they'll go good on seating it.
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Sep 27, 2021 22:17
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Does anyone know what this noise is and why it's happening? https://youtu.be/fFOlo9vzVRc https://youtu.be/eUzTLof9eK0 https://youtu.be/agvaaTFSAcg I've never slept in my kid's room (and neither has she to be honest) so we never noticed it, but hanging out in there today heard it and started investigating. No noise most of the time, and only occurs when we run the hot water in the showers at which point it's a pretty rapid tapping we can hear in a couple rooms until showers stop then it slows down until it goes away completely. I figured if it was a leak it would be happening all the time, and it sounds like metal straining more than water dripping to me (or water dripping in a metal container). Happened to check everything I could think of and saw I could hear it at the hot water heater as well. Plumbing is all PEX with copper connections to fixtures, so my only guess is it has to be something in the hot water heater because I can't replicate it with cold water (though I haven't let the system rest for a couple hours first, yet). Maybe the hot water heater or flue heating up with use and metal expanding/contracting?
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Oct 2, 2021 06:10
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PageMaster posted:Does anyone know what this noise is and why it's happening? Your videos are private. But based on the description, I would normally say that is 100% your copper piping expanding with the hot water and straining against clamps, blocking, whatever. There is usually always at least one pipe in every house I have lived in that does this when a certain fixture is run. That said, I wouldn't have thought it would be a problem with PEX, but without knowing how it is terminated to your fixtures, etc, hard to say. Fun fact, my main water line in to my house runs through my uninsulated garage ceiling, it does the opposite in the summer - when the cold water from the ground makes it into the hot pipe, it will start contracting and making the exact same noises.
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Oct 2, 2021 06:34
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ROJO posted:Your videos are private. Oops, fixed. Yeah the only copper is to connect the PEX to fixtures; there's no actual runs, and I can't imagine the pex would transmit sound very well. Edit: like this:  The rooms I hear it from are the three directly over the garage so I could just be hearing the actual water heater through the floor; I got stuck on it must be pipes in the wall and didn't think it might just be loud enough on its own. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Oct 2, 2021 |
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Oct 2, 2021 06:55
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Yooper posted:Last March I moved into a new house and three days later the fitting going into the pitless adapter popped. We dug it up, fixed all that, and now I think the submersible pump is going. I'm looking for a sanity check here before I bring in the Well Dudes. They've quoted ~ $17,000 for a 500 foot well with new 2 wire pump and controller. I'm assuming somewhere between the pump and the pressure tank/first tap for the house, there's a check valve. If so, have you had anyone check its current condition?
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Oct 3, 2021 05:54
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Nitrox posted:Replacing a toilet is potential grounds to deny your security deposit because I'm sure your lease stipulates this exact thing somewhere. The liability potential is through the
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Oct 5, 2021 15:12
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SourKraut posted:I'm assuming somewhere between the pump and the pressure tank/first tap for the house, there's a check valve. If so, have you had anyone check its current condition? In Michigan you can't have a check valve anywhere except at the pump. If there was a leak down the pipe then the unit would draw from inside the casing rather than cycling the pump. Then when it did pump you'd get a slam of air. Well dude just left, it looks like a crack in the o-ring on the pitless adapter but there was only one dude and he couldn't lift the pump out to replace it. We just want this fixed well enough to last till spring when we get a new well. The TDS on our well water is 2500ppm, our fixtures are getting pitted and our cutlery literally rusts in the dishwasher.
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Oct 5, 2021 15:41
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Water softener update from the whole GE/Home Depot frustration mess earlier in the thread. I hooked it up and it works. edit: I'm still never going to buy another product from GE.
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Oct 6, 2021 01:18
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Yooper posted:In Michigan you can't have a check valve anywhere except at the pump. If there was a leak down the pipe then the unit would draw from inside the casing rather than cycling the pump. Then when it did pump you'd get a slam of air. I'm glad they identified the issue, but you can have check valve leak by and pressure loss downstream of the well pump, and not completely lose the water column in the well pipe to where you'd get that slam of air. Edit: Over time, pressure will likely continue to drop even if the pump is not used, but the pressure drop will slow down. Canned Sunshine fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Oct 6, 2021 |
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Oct 6, 2021 04:12
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SourKraut posted:I'm glad they identified the issue, but you can have check valve leak by and pressure loss downstream of the well pump, and not completely lose the water column in the well pipe to where you'd get that slam of air. Update : The well company sent one dude who couldn't lift the pitless out to replace the o-ring. He tried to tighten it but it just made it worse. I am 100% getting a new well, but these clowns won't be the ones doing it. Unfortunately every well driller is booked till frost time which is like a month and a half away. 
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Oct 6, 2021 13:49
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I just had a sump pump installed in my basement. Basement was seriously wet (dug less than 4 inches after breaking the concrete slab and water was already coming up). Anyone ever seen efflorescence like this? Looks like... hair.  I've seen my fair share of this stuff. Normally as a thin dusting or flaky stuff. Never seen it look like this. Is it because all of the water got pumped out so quickly after all these years? Appeared overnight right after the sump pump was installed. melon cat fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Oct 7, 2021 |
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Oct 7, 2021 22:09
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Your basement has Morgellons.
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Oct 7, 2021 23:29
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melon cat posted:I just had a sump pump installed in my basement. Basement was seriously wet (dug less than 4 inches after breaking the concrete slab and water was already coming up). Anyone ever seen efflorescence like this? Looks like... hair. More of a style thing. It's hairy because it's forming really fast. Is that newer concrete?* *If you exhibit signs of hairy efflorescence, consult your doctor.
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Oct 8, 2021 02:32
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What kind of concrete was used? Kind of looks like fiber reinforced concrete.
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Oct 8, 2021 03:40
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No idea as to the age or kind of concrete used. Possibly poured ~25 years ago. But all I know is that efflorescence cropped up overnight right along a crack in the concrete. It looks like it's got some lame-rear end combover I tell you hwat melon cat fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Oct 8, 2021 |
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Oct 8, 2021 05:11
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deoju posted:Dumb noob question: Is the hole in the bathroom floor for a toilet a standardized size? I put a big rear end chip in the bowl of mine. A couple of days ago I saw a toilet* on the curb and picked it up, thinking I could replace mine with it. I don't want to start a project and realize I've got a size 4 when I need a size 6 or whatever. I'm in the US if that matters.
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Oct 8, 2021 08:33
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i like nice words
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I'm about to move into a new (old) house, and the insurance company has told us if we install a water leak detection system, they'll reduce the premium enough to cover the cost of the system in under a year. So that seems like a no-brainer to me. It just has to have a total of 8 remote sensors, so it needs to be something I can buy additional sensors for. I was originally looking at something like this guy for a self-install: https://www.getguardian.com but it looks like they're very out-of-stock right now, with their shop disabled etc. You can also get units that are professionally installed and monitor the water flow through the pipes directly. As someone who's software-industry-adjacent, I never trust a "smart" device to not make stupid decisions while I'm showering. And I don't want something that relies on some internet service to function normally. However a friend of the wife just had a whole wall come apart because a pipe inside the wall burst, which I don't think something relying only on floor sensors would pick up. What have people here used? Any recommendations? And for reference I'm in Quebec, so ideally something that will sell here.
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Oct 9, 2021 16:12
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