|
Looks like a normal air compressor setup. You pull the chain to initially drop the air pressure. Once you can, you then open the bottom one. That is on the bottom specifically to drain the water out. And while the air is equalizing, the air rushing out there will blow out any moisture inside the tank. You do this any time you finish using it.
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2021 04:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 10:11 |
|
|
Charliegrs posted:Nevermind I figured it out. I pulled the ring on the red plug and it bled the air out. It was loud as hell. Anyway I figured I'd let you all know in case anyone else was wondering. The plug on the bottom is to drain out the water that will collect in the tank from condensation of the compressed air. If you don't drain it periodically (or every time you use it maybe) then you'll have higher humidity in the air delivered to the brush, and the bottom of the tank may rust eventually (or quickly depending on how the tank is made and from what). Edit: Oops... beaten didn't realize there was a new page.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2021 05:41
|
|
|
Jonny Nox posted:Base colors are done, next is Satin varnish, washes, and chipping Devilishly good! Will seal your sins better than an exorcism! 
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2021 09:45
|
|
|
I know bikes and cars aren't always this threads thing but it's all I build so its what I will post. I've been working on a repsol honda RC213V for the last week and managed to get all of the body panels painted up today. I did learn one thing about zero paints today and thats that my previous super light coats method wasn't working super well cause I ended up with a little bit of crazing. When I did the fluro red I put the coats on a little thicker which seemed to have worked in stopping any crazing underneath it but I did get some with the fluro orange. Results are below:  
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2021 08:30
|
|
|
Dr. Garbanzo posted:I know bikes and cars aren't always this threads thing but it's all I build so its what I will post. All models are rad! Post post post.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2021 10:58
|
|
|
Dr. Garbanzo posted:I know bikes and cars aren't always this threads thing but it's all I build so its what I will post. Never not post models of any kind. The racing liveries you do are delightfully vibrant and I always enjoy getting to see them.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2021 13:39
|
|
|
Primed the rear shock springs today and man I remember why I hate spraying stynylrez. It just absolutely hates my airbrush. I demoted my H&S Ultra to just primer & metallics and the speed at which the primer dries in the airbrush and clogs it to bugger and I need to disassemble it and give it a proper cleaning just to get it running again.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2021 15:19
|
|
|
Dr. Garbanzo posted:I know bikes and cars aren't always this threads thing but it's all I build so its what I will post. I'm just a lurker, but I am a car and bike fan, so 
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2021 16:03
|
|
|
Sultan Tarquin posted:Primed the rear shock springs today and man I remember why I hate spraying stynylrez. It just absolutely hates my airbrush. I demoted my H&S Ultra to just primer & metallics and the speed at which the primer dries in the airbrush and clogs it to bugger and I need to disassemble it and give it a proper cleaning just to get it running again. What size needle/nozzle are you using. Most H&S airbrushes have fairly small needle/nozzles as default, and Stynylrez recommends high pressure and a large nozzle.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2021 18:10
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:What size needle/nozzle are you using. Most H&S airbrushes have fairly small needle/nozzles as default, and Stynylrez recommends high pressure and a large nozzle. it's a .4 at 20-30 like the bottle says, it just dries real fast in it and the Ultra being the basic model with only one interlal seal it gets clogged up real easy. I got some flow improver I could try throwing in there the next time I need to prime something.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2021 18:47
|
|
|
Deeters posted:I'm just a lurker, but I am a car and bike fan, so Well in that case… I’m hardly even a lurker here, but I did just finish my first motorcycle. It was really a fun build, and I will probably scoop up a Tamiya Ducati soon even though I’ve got a heap of cars to work on.   Jägermeister 934 is the next one, in the spirit of the season and all that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2021 20:19
|
|
|
I am lieking these bieks. The Jager 934 is a great kit.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2021 22:20
|
|
|
nitsuga posted:Well in that case… I'm liking the bike and the ducati 1199 is a good kit. If it's the tamiya 934 its a really nice kit which I've built both variants of. The decals are a little brittle though if memory serves correct.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2021 23:43
|
|
|
Dr. Garbanzo posted:I know bikes and cars aren't always this threads thing but it's all I build so its what I will post.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2021 00:35
|
|
|
When in doubt, always post. I build military stuff, but seeing the ultra-smooth finishes that you automotive guys get is just fascinating.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2021 03:18
|
|
|
I don't know why I keep posting photos of this piece of trash. Some of the chipping looks great. Some looks meh. The tracks are falling apart already. next: Filter. Dirt. Flat Coat. Throw it on the shelf until it falls the rest of the way apart. DO NOT BUY THIS KIT!
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2021 07:00
|
|
|
I always forget how delicate tamiyas own decals are compared to their cartograph made offerings. I started on the decals on the bike build and they're slow progress cause they don't really want to conform to the surface and break apart if you look at them funny. Like decals aren't a foreign concept for me but these are deffo giving me a run for my money.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2021 11:12
|
|
|
Bought a cheap Revell VW Beetle kit on a whim, and it's quite an obnoxious kit. The sprues are lettered, but the instructions ignore that fact, and just call out pieces by their number. Which, ok, fine, then surely the parts will all be sequential on the sprues, right? No? Part numbers are just dispersed randomly throughout every sprue? I need to check every single sprue every single time I need to find a part? The sprues are already lettered. It would have taken literally minutes for them to update the instructions.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2021 13:22
|
|
|
Oof. I’d probably sit down and add that to the instructions myself one evening. A Beetle is on my wishlist, so maybe I’ll take my chances with a Samba Bus instead. Sorry to hear about the other modeling troubles too. The dark parts are no fun. The clear coat wrinkled on the Yamaha I posted earlier and ended up sanding it all down and changing color schemes. Just glad it didn’t happen on one of the cars really.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2021 13:34
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:Bought a cheap Revell VW Beetle kit on a whim, and it's quite an obnoxious kit. The sprues are lettered, but the instructions ignore that fact, and just call out pieces by their number. Which, ok, fine, then surely the parts will all be sequential on the sprues, right? No? Part numbers are just dispersed randomly throughout every sprue? I need to check every single sprue every single time I need to find a part? I've built kits like this and obnoxious is the right word. It's not hard just irritating, like the thing keeps pissing on your shoes. Though it does help you appreciate the folks like Tamiya who have their poo poo together. Now imagine if Revell combined with the Dragon instructions people to make the ultimate hostile instructions.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2021 15:30
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:Bought a cheap Revell VW Beetle kit on a whim, and it's quite an obnoxious kit. The sprues are lettered, but the instructions ignore that fact, and just call out pieces by their number. Which, ok, fine, then surely the parts will all be sequential on the sprues, right? No? Part numbers are just dispersed randomly throughout every sprue? I need to check every single sprue every single time I need to find a part? The Tamiya Beetle kit is a dream to build and I don't think it's that much more expensive.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2021 19:21
|
|
|
Everything I've ever heard about Revell gives me the impression that the best thing you can do with a Revell kit is leave it on the store shelf.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 08:19
|
|
|
The thing about Revell is that they're not all bad kits - you just have to do your research (i.e. check Scalemates) beforehand. This is because there could be almost anything inside the box. If you're unlucky, it could be ancient US Revell, or it could be Monogram (although some folk are nostalgic for these kits). Anything made by Revell of Germany is likely to be decent, especially from the 90s where they seemed to be on a run of extremely nice aircraft kits with super fine engraved panel lines etc. These days p much everything Revell release (with some exceptions like their upcoming 1/48 SR71) is reboxed from other manufacturers - Special Hobby, Academy, ICM, Hasegawa, Dragon etc. These are usually slightly cheaper than the original boxing, sometimes with better decals sheets too. Their instructions from the last decade or so are much improved now from those awful b&w ones that looked like they'd been photocopied one hundred times too. So as usual it always pays to check a kit's provenance on Scalemates!
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 09:07
|
|
|
Are they cheaper? My local shop has Revell reboxes of Zvezda kits on the same shelf as the original kits, but priced $10-30 higher.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 14:11
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:Sprue Brothers deal of the day is the RFM Pz IV G for thirty bucks, and that's pretty hard to beat. https://spruebrothers.com/rfmrm5053-1-35-rye-field-model-panzerkampfwagen-iv-ausf-g-sd-kfz-161-1-with-workable-track-links/ I have made a huge mistake. The track pins are so tiny, and there are so, so many of them. The Revell 1/72 Vampire's cheaper than the Special Hobby boxing. Their Me 262 was surprisingly decent for a Revell original, too. Conversely I hated every second of their Leopard 2A6, which is one of theirs from 2011.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 14:31
|
|
|
I've built quite a bit of Revell and it really helps to look up a kit's history and some reviews before buying it. I've been burned before by buying something that looked interesting but turned out to be ancient and ill-fitting (even if the decal sheet was pretty dang good) Their stuff's not bad and I actually like their instructions for being clear, at least most of the time. Would be better if they didn't resort to mixing Revell colors in the instructions though and instead also offer alternatives in the form of RAL, RLM or FS colors as they only occasionally do this.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 15:06
|
|
|
Vorenus posted:Everything I've ever heard about Revell gives me the impression that the best thing you can do with a Revell kit is leave it on the store shelf. I have a ton of older Revell planes from when I first got back into modelling that were very inexpensive and enjoyable to build and paint to a mediocre level. So I carry a lot of goodwill for the brand. Aside from the BMP I'm currently building it's not even that I don't like the kits I've built lately, it's just that there's better options out there. Also, my standard of what "Acceptable" is has gone up a lot. anyways, further attempts at oil washes for panel lines going...... fine?  Definitely used the wrong clearcoat on this one. Micro-Satin is great for pre-filter and weathering but isn't working for me for panel lines, next model I'm moving back to gloss. I need a better method for re-scribing panel lines because razor saw is ok for straight longer lines but equipment access panels etc don't work that way I'm still a coward about how much i can allow the paint to dry before wiping it off. this model had quite a bit of staining on the white sections and places where I just wiped the paint out of the panel lines.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 16:36
|
|
|
"man, these springs look really flat. oooh the bottle says XF-7" Had to spray them again anyway so I cut it with half red half gloss and it looks a lot better.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 16:37
|
|
|
For the record, the Revell beetle seems ok other than the annoying instructions. I think I saw on scalemates that the mold is from the 70s, and if so, it's surprisingly decent for such an oldie. Not a ton of detail, but I got my money's worth. Their Samba T1 bus that comes with all the hippie decals was a very enjoyable build. All the chrome pieces looked fantastic, good level of detail, everything fit together nicely.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 18:27
|
|
|
Revells are good for practice. I have a couple real lovely ones from the 70s and I find that 1) its nothing that can't be fixed if you have the patience and 2) they are excellent "blank canvasses." With kits <$30 I only make happy little accidents, with a >$60 Tamiya, I cry if a suspension arm snaps or a decal tears.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 18:48
|
|
|
If it was the 1:24 Beetle that mold is from 2013 originally, I built it a few years ago and it's pretty neat. The T1 is also quite enjoyable but the version I built was the cargo van version which came with some nice big Jägermeister decals. Was fairly early in my modelling career so I chickened out on building that variant (I also lacked the colors it asked for) and instead just built the basic blue alternative version. Still ended up with a decent amount of spare parts. Might have to find it again and build it once more.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 18:49
|
|
|
For panel lines, would the panel line pens used in gunpla work? Or do they not hold well on the plastic/paint here?
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 19:07
|
|
|
There's no reason it wouldn't be fine, gunpla is plastic and paint same as other models. Just have to make sure to have a pen small enough for your panel lines and not to run over the edge.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 19:19
|
|
|
Sultan Tarquin posted:There's no reason it wouldn't be fine, gunpla is plastic and paint same as other models. Just have to make sure to have a pen small enough for your panel lines and not to run over the edge. Right, I was unsure if the type of plastic or the glossiness of it would affect it. And you can get some fine tipped pens due to the size of the models and thus the panel lines you are working. Anyway, was just asking/suggesting concerning the discussion earlier with panel lining an instrument cluster.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 19:33
|
|
|
You're still going to be way better off using a traditional wash though for something like an instrument panel purely for the capilliary action to get into all the nooks and crannies, plus you can always remove mistakes with thinner. Not sure if you can even clean up the gunpla pens, I just smelled mine ( ) and it didn't smell alcohol based.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 20:23
|
|
|
Sultan Tarquin posted:You're still going to be way better off using a traditional wash though for something like an instrument panel purely for the capilliary action to get into all the nooks and crannies, plus you can always remove mistakes with thinner. Not sure if you can even clean up the gunpla pens, I just smelled mine ( They have erasers. And there are flow pens. Oh well, my mind has this tiny instrument cluster where getting a brush into without hitting the rest would be difficult. But that is me and perhaps brush sizes have improved. I'll admit the last time I did that kind of plastic modeling was the 80s. And my current model work is.. a different breed. I'll post an update once I get the work done (parts are here, just been busy with other things).
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 21:27
|
|
|
So a quick google on marker-lining models and it used to be a done thing. I also confirmed my biggest problem is not widening the lines before priming. And also, I’m gonna try pencil lead on the Sukhoi since I’m flat varnish coating it anyways.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 21:27
|
|
|
JuffoWup posted:They have erasers. And there are flow pens. Oh well, my mind has this tiny instrument cluster where getting a brush into without hitting the rest would be difficult. But that is me and perhaps brush sizes have improved. I'll admit the last time I did that kind of plastic modeling was the 80s. And my current model work is.. a different breed. I'll post an update once I get the work done (parts are here, just been busy with other things). Use a product like Tamiya panel liner and it just gets sucked into all the cracks when you touch the brush to it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 21:29
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:Are they cheaper? My local shop has Revell reboxes of Zvezda kits on the same shelf as the original kits, but priced $10-30 higher. I guess it just depends - I can only speak from my experience in the UK. I noticed that ICM's recently tooled 1/72 Mig-25 foxbat was selling for about £24 whereas Revell's reboxing of it was less than £20. Great kit by the way!    
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 22:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 10:11 |
|
|
Looks absolutely gorgeous. I've wanted to build that ever since I saw it on the modelling news.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2021 23:07
|
|