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Sagebrush posted:
Yeah, I was just going to use nuts and bolts, maybe adhesives. Pop rivets look pretty handy but I'm going to focus on reversible joining for starters. shame on an IGA posted:Vise, hacksaw and box of files for a cheap foot in the water before you go bandsaw shopping, please. Thanks for talking me down, lol
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Sep 30, 2021 23:49
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Stinky_Pete posted:Hello, I've never drilled anything other than wood or PVC before. I want to get started building a chassis for a small robot, and I've read that I should use a bandsaw and a drill press to . How should I deal with shavings that come out during cutting and drilling, and where can I find quality tools and materials? The more details you can share the more specific our help can be. Do you live in an apartment or house? Do you have a garage or basement? Pics of what you want to do or something similar will help a lot. Also before you even buy files are there any maker spaces nearby or maybe a friend with a highly unreliable car they won't shut up about? I'll let you use my drill press for beer, other people will too.
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Oct 1, 2021 01:00
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Don't be afraid to prototype in plywood and wood screws if that's more accessible/affordable too, you can always get to a point you're happy with the design then remake it neatly in aluminium.
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Oct 1, 2021 10:06
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Sagebrush posted:I assume you're using aluminum. Someone mentioned using a coarser toothed blade than you would use for steel, using too fine of a file or saw blade just loads it up and then you're just burning through the material and not cutting. I use my miter saw to cut aluminum at home and don't bother with any special blade. For fastening aluminum, or any sheet that's too thin to tap, rivet nuts are nice but you would need the tool to set them. They're great if you avoid the cheap ones.
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Oct 2, 2021 14:02
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I got a cheap stick welder and upgraded the stinger and clamp right away. Now that I've melted the insulation on the leads a few times I'm ready to upgrade those too. What do I want to look for to get rugged insulation/jacketing? Are there preferred bayonet connector brands? I'm also looking to get a leather apron, it doesn't need to be the best ever, but I'd prefer to get a good one. What should I look for?
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Oct 2, 2021 21:19
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taqueso posted:I'm also looking to get a leather apron, it doesn't need to be the best ever, but I'd prefer to get a good one. What should I look for? Every commercial leather welding apron I have ever used or seen in person has been absolute garbage. I've seen some high dollar ones that look pretty ok, but they are car-level expensive. I can only recommend going to a thrift shop and looking for like a leather couch or something that you can take the skin off of and make your own. Just need a knife and maybe some hammer-on snap buttons from the craft store (like 5 bucks) and a hole punch. One of the guys in my blacksmithing guild made one out of a cowhide rug that still had the hair on, it's pretty cool, and tough but flexible. Be willing to use canvas or denim as well. Old jeans are plenty good enough to make hard-wearing fire resistant shielding.
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Oct 5, 2021 19:37
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There are some good options out there but you're going to be spending $150-300 at least probably. I bought one several years back from https://www.forge-aprons.com/ and absolutely love it. Not long after I bought a lovely black leather apron from etsy from a maker in Ukraine for my best friend for about $150.
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Oct 5, 2021 19:43
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Slung Blade posted:Be willing to use canvas or denim as well. Old jeans are plenty good enough to make hard-wearing fire resistant shielding. I use the generic denim Cintas/Aramark and they work pretty well. the biggest problem area is the tie-strings. Calavera Tool Works makes a really good looking leather apron, but they start at $170 or so.
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Oct 5, 2021 20:36
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mini update: giant hole in the wall ready. Any advise on eco friendly coolant/ cutting oil? Waste disposal here is not ideal. The nearshore reefs are already overstressed; leaching toxic goo because of a few percent efficiency gain is senseless.
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Oct 5, 2021 23:35
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fins posted:mini update: giant hole in the wall ready. Blaser has a reputation for bio cutting fluids, but they are fairly pricy. Given climate and such I'd want a very stable coolant that will not go rancid. Some soluble oils have this problem, so you'd be dumping them because they smell like an old nutsack. Water quality will also impact them over time, so if you have very hard water eventually the calcium and such builds up to the point that the coolants split. Another option is a full synthetic coolant, these look like water and tend to be very stable. We have some sumps that have not been dumped in over 10 years, just continuously topped off. On the downside synthetics are not as high in lubricity but they excel in heat removal. This is great for grinding, but not for milling aluminum. We use Castrol products as they have an exceptional support network and a wide range of products. Some smaller folks come knocking almost monthly, they usually have better prices but suffer on the support side of things.
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Oct 6, 2021 02:15
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I figured an apron would be fairly spendy and that's ok. Thanks for mentioning denim, I didn't realize that was a viable option.
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Oct 6, 2021 06:59
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I use old worn out clothes, jeans and a leather jacket (I'll always remember someone said it looked like a nice jacket, for colonizing mars). Alternative would be coveralls. I actually think I will get some because then I won't have to keep changing clothing and they can be had pretty cheap and are arguably better at protecting your clothes.
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Oct 6, 2021 09:44
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We need to weld up some ventilation ducting that is titanium. It will not be structural, see no real loading, and just needs to guide air. I know we need argon shielding, but what will happen if it isn't perfect? Will it fail structurally and crack apart? Will it look like poo poo?
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Oct 6, 2021 22:05
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i don't have an answer for you but why the hell do you have a titanium ventilation duct if there isn't even a structural requirement  did you let some engineer just have free rein of your design
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Oct 6, 2021 22:14
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Sagebrush posted:i don't have an answer for you but why the hell do you have a titanium ventilation duct if there isn't even a structural requirement The air it's carrying is corrosive, after the ducting it enters a kynar scrubber. We currently use steel, but it presents other chemical issues, hence the move to titanium.
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Oct 6, 2021 22:20
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I've read a little bit about titanium welding and the book mentioned that it should be done in a completely inert atmosphere. But that was for critical nuclear and aerospace applications iirc.
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Oct 6, 2021 22:33
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I've never used this for titanium but on stainless it does an amazing job shielding the back of the weld without having to back purge it. I used it a ton for automotive exhausts. https://www.amazon.com/Harris-S0FB01Type-Solar-Welding-Flux/dp/B003TT0RJI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=solar+flux&qid=1633559642&sr=8-3 Mix with alcohol, brush on, let dry, and weld.
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Oct 6, 2021 23:36
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wesleywillis posted:I've read a little bit about titanium welding and the book mentioned that it should be done in a completely inert atmosphere. But that was for critical nuclear and aerospace applications iirc. Yah everything we read refers to this sort of thing, aerospace or nuke work. I see reference to reduced corrosion resistance and an increased risk of fracture, but I'm not sure the context.
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Oct 7, 2021 01:19
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Yooper posted:Yah everything we read refers to this sort of thing, aerospace or nuke work. I see reference to reduced corrosion resistance and an increased risk of fracture, but I'm not sure the context. Your weld line will be more like pig iron than Ti in terms of properties if you don't shield the molten Ti from air with a dry inert gas. Ti loves to absorb nitrogen, oxygen, hydrogen and carbon instead of its alloying compounds. All of which serve to make it lovely crap metal that'll fracture due to cte mismatch between bulk material and the weld line. E: read about welding up the Ti panels and structure on the SR-71 blackbird for horror stories of welding low alloy Ti.
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Oct 7, 2021 13:34
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Oh also, pure Ti will self ignite in atmosphere well below its melting temp. That's another reason for doing it in an inert environment. Ti burns at like 1700c and ignites waaay lower. Even Ti-6242 will ignite if you shoot grinder sparks into a trash can of chips.
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Oct 7, 2021 13:38
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Note to self: don't gently caress around with Ti.
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Oct 7, 2021 14:01
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Source: I started a trash fire in the above way and almost burned down the shop I worked in. 6ft tall white flames are scary, but it burned out quick. Currently, half the parts I own the lifecycle of are made of Ti and operate in turbomachinery. Ti and Nickel and Cobalt are pigs. Don't use them if you don't have to.
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Oct 7, 2021 16:19
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Samuel L. Hacksaw posted:Source: I started a trash fire in the above way and almost burned down the shop I worked in. 6ft tall white flames are scary, but it burned out quick. Imagine this: 21" LOA, 5" OD, 4" ID 6AL4V with 6-32's around the circumference.
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Oct 7, 2021 21:57
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sharkytm posted:Imagine this: 21" LOA, 5" OD, 4" ID 6AL4V with 6-32's around the circumference. I would prefer not to.
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Oct 8, 2021 00:44
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sharkytm posted:Imagine this: 21" LOA, 5" OD, 4" ID 6AL4V with 6-32's around the circumference. Nuclear poo poo? Walls too thick for aerospace. Sounds lovely but not too bad. Spot face, 1.5" carbide drill with thru coolant and a cutting tap should make it work. Have fun deburring the ID!
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Oct 8, 2021 01:44
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Samuel L. Hacksaw posted:Nuclear poo poo? Walls too thick for aerospace. Sounds lovely but not too bad. Spot face, 1.5" carbide drill with thru coolant and a cutting tap should make it work. Forgot to mention, they're blind holes. In a pressure vessel. Oceanography. It sees 10,000psi test pressures. I buy 2-3 a year.
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Oct 8, 2021 03:44
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The ducting sounds like a good candidate for laser welding. Very tight HAZ, generally gonna be faster than tig/mig. Same gas requirements though.
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Oct 8, 2021 10:32
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fins posted:The ducting sounds like a good candidate for laser welding. Very tight HAZ, generally gonna be faster than tig/mig. Same gas requirements though. Yeah, you can electron beam weld Ti in a bag backfilled with argon. But it requires an electron beam welding machine.
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Oct 8, 2021 14:01
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Yooper posted:Yah everything we read refers to this sort of thing, aerospace or nuke work. I see reference to reduced corrosion resistance and an increased risk of fracture, but I'm not sure the context. NM, Michigan. Makes sense with the username. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 14:10 on Oct 8, 2021 |
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Oct 8, 2021 14:05
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In FormulaSAE I shortened a titanium muffler by cutting it and then snipping the waste into strips to use as filler while TIGing the part back together. It survived a season of races and was still together in storage last time I saw it. I knew about the fire risk so I dragged the welder and table outside to do it.
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Oct 8, 2021 17:54
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sharkytm posted:
TMH by any chance? Though I guess they're on the Brockton line.
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Oct 12, 2021 14:10
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A Proper Uppercut posted:TMH by any chance? Though I guess they're on the Brockton line. Evans Machine. They do a bunch of GR2 Ti tubing welding for me (Hydrothermal vent temperature probes), and the welds come out looking great. They left flux in the tube for one order, but now that I call it out on the drawing, they clean them out. Haven't had a leak yet, and they see 10 cycles to 10,000PSI with a 1 hour hold, and about 30 of them have been deployed at 3000+m for 12+months, in 380°C corrosive water.
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Oct 12, 2021 15:17
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sharkytm posted:Evans Machine. They do a bunch of GR2 Ti tubing welding for me (Hydrothermal vent temperature probes), and the welds come out looking great. They left flux in the tube for one order, but now that I call it out on the drawing, they clean them out. Haven't had a leak yet, and they see 10 cycles to 10,000PSI with a 1 hour hold, and about 30 of them have been deployed at 3000+m for 12+months, in 380°C corrosive water. Ah yea, used to do a lot of edm work for them where I was before, parts for their animal deboning machines. Didn't know they did that kind of welding, but we only saw stainless parts. But even so, TMH in West Bridgewater is a good place, the owner Tony really knows what he's doing when it comes to welding (though not sure about titanium). A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Oct 12, 2021 |
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Oct 12, 2021 16:12
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This is probably a good spot for this: Acetylene tanks. I know they are NOT supposed to be stored on their sides. We have a small O/A setup at the shop and someone, probably trying to save space decided to put the torch kit on its side underneath a shelf thats too short for them to stand up straight. I noticed on Friday, its beena long weekend here in Canadastan, and now I want to use them today. Thats ok right? Like over the weekend, the whatever the gently caress in the Acetylene tank had enough time to go back down to the bottom of the tank and not be hazardous anymore? Points: The tanks are small, like ~4-5" diameter, maybe 24 inches (at most) tall. Likely neither O or A are full. Don't know how long they were on their side They've been standing up for a few days now Nothing to worry about right?
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Oct 12, 2021 17:40
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wesleywillis posted:This is probably a good spot for this: Inside the cylinder, the acetylene is dissolved in acetone. There is usually some sort of inert powder as well. It keeps the acetylene from spontaneously and explosively polymerizing. The warnings are most likely to keep the liquid and sludge at the bottom of the tank. You could also imagine someone leaving the valve open with a regulator attached and getting a bunch of crap into the mechanism. I say after a weekend of sitting, you're fine if the valve was closed.
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Oct 12, 2021 22:14
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These guys are awesome https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0z7DAr4w7Y
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Oct 13, 2021 01:11
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To add to acetylene talk: when people have been screwing around with it, if you see weird color flames, shut it down you're burning acetone.
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Oct 13, 2021 07:30
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wesleywillis posted:This is probably a good spot for this: Probably late, but it's 1:1 time on side:time upright, with a max of 24 hours upright before they're safe to use. "They've been standing up for a few days now" is (was?) plenty.
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Oct 14, 2021 07:20
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Thank goodness!! I'm still alive so I can live to poo poo post for another day!
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Oct 14, 2021 11:40
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The hole in the wall is complete! Machines arrive in port tomorrow bright and early. Should be ready to process on Monday. Leaves me the whole weekend to stress about duties and concessions. And not dropping the machines down the 100ft drop immediately in front of where the crane will "place" them. e:tables
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Oct 15, 2021 00:36
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