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I think I've officially had it with my e3v2. What's the best FDM I can get that isn't Prusa $$$? edit: I don't even care if it's old or whatever. My cousin has an old Monoprice III or something like that. It's pretty old but it prints better than anything I've ever had come out of my Ender.
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Oct 7, 2021 22:39
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Ghostnuke posted:I think I've officially had it with my e3v2. What's the best FDM I can get that isn't Prusa $$$? My monoprice maker select v2 is much more of a pain than my Ender 3 but I'd say just get a Prusa Mini if you're having that much trouble.
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Oct 7, 2021 22:46
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Ghostnuke posted:I think I've officially had it with my e3v2. What's the best FDM I can get that isn't Prusa $$$? I do suspect that we could get your E3v2 working pretty well with a few upgrades and I suspect most everyone in this thread is happy to help out with that, but if you're really done with it, post your budget and the build area that you really need.
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Oct 7, 2021 23:11
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Also be prepared for all roads to lead to Prusa.
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Oct 7, 2021 23:17
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becoming posted:I do suspect that we could get your E3v2 working pretty well with a few upgrades and I suspect most everyone in this thread is happy to help out with that, but if you're really done with it, post your budget and the build area that you really need. I've upgraded the bowden tube and connectors, and the the extruder. I've tinkered with it for hours and hours and hours. I don't think I can get as big of a build area in my budget, looks like 150 - 200 mm would be the biggest. $400 or thereabouts would be the budget. Looking at these two so far: https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=33820 https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=36045 I like that they have assisted/automatic bed leveling.
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Oct 7, 2021 23:23
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Sounds like a great fit for a Prusa Mini.
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Oct 7, 2021 23:26
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I'm organizing my work area and have a lot of strips of SMD components. Has anyone seen a good 3D-printed organizer for longish strips?
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Oct 7, 2021 23:28
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becoming posted:This light bar is pretty popular and well-reviewed; he's got a full parts list for you to buy and print it yourself, or you can buy it from him as a kit or fully assembled. That's a pretty nice design. I like it.
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Oct 7, 2021 23:29
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poll plane variant posted:I'm organizing my work area and have a lot of strips of SMD components. Has anyone seen a good 3D-printed organizer for longish strips? I remember taking note of a couple, dug up some links: Here is one: https://hackaday.com/2019/11/07/3d-printed-magazines-tame-the-smd-tape-beast/ And this one is very similar and also includes STEP files (if you care): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4609897
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Oct 7, 2021 23:32
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Wanderless posted:Sounds like a great fit for a Prusa Mini. I looked at that, but the build area is so smooooooool edit: gently caress me, it's actually bigger than that voxel edit 2: are flashforges any good? Ghostnuke fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Oct 7, 2021 |
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Oct 7, 2021 23:34
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Ghostnuke posted:I think I've officially had it with my e3v2. What's the best FDM I can get that isn't Prusa $$$? The Prusa Mini is still my go to rec for printers. It's $350, so not a terrible price. E: Flashforges loving suck
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Oct 7, 2021 23:42
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does the prusa need engineering precision to assemble like the ender? or should I spring for the assembled one?
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Oct 7, 2021 23:48
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Nah, I got mine in the kit and didn't need anything, not even a speed square.
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Oct 8, 2021 00:21
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Ghostnuke posted:I've upgraded the bowden tube and connectors, and the the extruder. I've tinkered with it for hours and hours and hours. My working, modded, self-leveling CR10 with a bunch of upgrades?
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Oct 8, 2021 00:27
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Ghostnuke posted:does the prusa need engineering precision to assemble like the ender? or should I spring for the assembled one? One of the best features of the mk3s (and I assume the mini) that never really gets talked about is that it will use math and the pinda probe to tell you if/how badly you hosed up squaring the machine to itself. It will then compensate for it behind the scenes (assuming it's not egregiously out of square). In the assembly manual they will specifically call out if the step requires precision (for example, aligning the bearings correctly on the X axis rods)
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Oct 8, 2021 00:38
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I got a longer on sale at Amazon for like 250? bucks. Think the print volume is 300*300*400 and all the reviews I saw of it were basically "Yea, you need to make bigger wheels for the leveling, but other than that it's pretty sweet". I looked around but couldn't really find a bad review. I haven't actually put mine together yet, though. I just grabbed it cause cheap sale plus giant print volume means big prop guns.
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Oct 8, 2021 01:16
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Ghostnuke posted:I looked at that, but the build area is so smooooooool A very good friend of mine has a Voxel; he just bought a Prusa i3 MK3S+ to take over the main printing work. The Voxel and its Flashforge brother (which is to be preferred as it's better supported) are okay, but you can do a hell of a lot better for the money. I'd recommend the Prusa Mini+ because I am a Prusa Stan (despite having a pair of Enders and a stable of various delta printers now); if you really want enclosed, take a look at the Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0, which has the dumbest name but a pretty decent build volume (270x210x190 I think) and is like $359 shipped right now. Disclaimer: I bought a 4Max Pro 2.0 and while I like it, it has its own host of issues including an unload filament function which should really be labeled "jam the hotend". It does a pretty nice job with ABS though. Really though, get a Prusa Mini+. Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:I got a longer on sale at Amazon for like 250? bucks. Think the print volume is 300*300*400 and all the reviews I saw of it were basically "Yea, you need to make bigger wheels for the leveling, but other than that it's pretty sweet". I looked around but couldn't really find a bad review. I'm trying to figure out what autocorrected to "longer" -- Sidewinder?
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Oct 8, 2021 01:56
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becoming posted:I'm trying to figure out what autocorrected to "longer" -- Sidewinder? https://www.longer3d.com/
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Oct 8, 2021 03:07
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Guess I should have searched first before asking the dumb-guy question, but I sure had never heard of Longer before. Looks neat.
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Oct 8, 2021 03:48
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I hadn't either, don't feel bad. I searched around for some bad reviews but the worst I saw was just the wheel thing and the one dude being kinda whiny about no bed leveling. At the price though, not really something I expected to be included anyway.
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Oct 8, 2021 05:24
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Since flashforge was mentioned, last weekend a friend gave me these He never was able to get them to work right. They were his first foray into 3D printing, and he never had the time to figure out how to fix the problems that arose. The FF had a nut loose on the bed that wouldn't allow to to properly level. Easy enough to fix but the spring hid it and I'm not sure if I hadn't already been tinkering with printers I would have known something was wrong. The Digitizer seems like a piece of poo poo. Were these ever usable? Even after calibration smooth flat white surfaces come out lumpy.
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Oct 8, 2021 06:45
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:I got a longer on sale at Amazon for like 250? bucks. Think the print volume is 300*300*400 and all the reviews I saw of it were basically "Yea, you need to make bigger wheels for the leveling, but other than that it's pretty sweet". I looked around but couldn't really find a bad review. I thought I read somewhere to beware of the wiring and firmware settings in Longer 3d printers kinda like Anet 3d printers, so maybe go over everything to make sure no fuckery is going on? EDIT: Filaments.ca is having a big sale on filament today if any Canadian goons are looking for supplies. https://filaments.ca/collections/3d...e=shopify_email Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 11:01 on Oct 8, 2021 |
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Oct 8, 2021 09:24
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I'm wanting to make a light / sign with my son's initial for his bedroom. Anyone have any experience with neon LED strips? Or recommendations on places to purchase them in the US? solid apollo offerings seem fine, but I realize there's a lot of options here. 3d printing the channel and any enclosures needed most likely. Maybe a controller box depending on what I need to set up for dimming or color changing.
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Oct 8, 2021 11:44
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Mr Newsman posted:I'm wanting to make a light / sign with my son's initial for his bedroom. This may be a good quick guide for you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHIvDkz1F1g
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Oct 8, 2021 14:06
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Stormangel posted:Since flashforge was mentioned, last weekend a friend gave me these that scanner is absolute garbage
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Oct 8, 2021 15:04
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biracial bear for uncut posted:EDIT: Filaments.ca is having a big sale on filament today if any Canadian goons are looking for supplies. Thanks homie! I was pricing some of their stuff out a couple days ago and they sent me a 'complete your purchase' email coupon that stacks with the sale, in case anybody wants to try that as well. Rexxed posted:It's almost certainly an issue with the file, you can open it up in a text editor and check the G code which is just text lines telling it what to do. It's likely that the file is bad somehow or if you're using an sd card it could also be corrupt. Still haven't fully run this one to the ground yet, but latest update is that the file can print individually but not in multiples. So at worst I can get what I need at the end of the day with additional babysitting which is fine, I guess. e. I got a shareable 5% off code from there, first one to hit me up gets it (PM or username at gmail) Guest2553 fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Oct 8, 2021 |
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Oct 8, 2021 15:07
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Ghostnuke posted:does the prusa need engineering precision to assemble like the ender? or should I spring for the assembled one? Everything here, speaks of "I'm fighting this on my own, and i'm searching google/facebook for advice". I posted this just a page ago, but the vast majority of what you'll find on the easily searched internet is utter poo poo. A poorly assembled ender, will print JUST FINE, but will print items that aren't quite square. So.. not even the ender needs engineering precision. I'm not sure which way to go here. I could talk about the printers you suggested, but that would be a page of text, which all amounts to "they're built to a dollar, they have terrible hot ends, they're fragile, and hard to get parts for.". In the sub $1000 printer range, you're not going to find a printer that's ~just gonna work~ all the time short of a Prusa. What's missing here, is knowledge. Printers all do the same thing. They're a CNC platform, that has a hot glue nozzle on it. You need to know what the bed materials, and the extruded materials do. You've gone on for half a page about being "done with your ender 3v2" but.. so far, I have no idea what your trouble is. At least 80% of the time, people who give up on a printer, are doing so for reasons that aren't the fault of the printer, and could just as easily happen with whatever replacement they're looking at. So lets do it. Ghostnuke posted:I've upgraded the bowden tube and connectors, and the the extruder. I've tinkered with it for hours and hours and hours. The stock bowden and connectors are fine. I ran with them for more than a year. I have capricorn tubing on mine now, because the price difference wasn't significant. You're willing to spend $400 on a new printer, right? I"m assuming you're paid less than $100 an hour. Give me two hours. 1. Make sure your carriages are all tight. The bed shouldn't wiggle. The hot end shouldn't wiggle. you shouldn't be able to hear any sort of click/rattle if you push the Y bar forward or back. 2. Put your glass bed, smooth side up. Put some glue stick on it. 3. With the bed at 60deg, and the hot end at 190c, use a crisp dollar bill, and use that to set your nozzle height. I disable the steppers and move the head manually for this. You should feel ~slight~ drag between the bill and the nozzle when moving the bill under the print head. 4. Print something with it, using PLA. Take photos for us. We can diagnose ANY problem from photos. Ideally print one of the pre-sliced things that comes with the printer, as i don't know about you, and how you treat slicers. 5. Don't tinker. Just do the thing, see if it works, and we'll help you figure it out. If we can get you that far. You should order some yellow springs for the bed, and some kind of good surface to print on. (I don't actually care that this is an ender. I am seeing a set of problems that will happen no matter what you get.)
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Oct 8, 2021 15:47
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Nerobro posted:1. Make sure your carriages are all tight. The bed shouldn't wiggle. The hot end shouldn't wiggle. you shouldn't be able to hear any sort of click/rattle if you push the Y bar forward or back. You definitely have a point, and I've gotten some semi-decent prints out of it. But it always takes 3-4 tries and then when I go to print something else it's poo poo again and I have to tinker until I either give up or it works finally. 1) Have done this, even within the last few days. I followed these 2 videos to do the assembly - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTN6jtB5mqk and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6FZjkWcW2g 2) Have done this, I do get better adhesion on the smooth side admittedly. 3) Have done this, approximately 1 trillion times. 4) I can take a pic when I get home, but I had a model going for a day or two. Seemed to be going ok-ish, but I came home yesterday and it had layer shifted everything and kept printing, ruining the print. Another common failure is supports not getting printed properly. They just turn into a tangled mess. I don't want to sound flippant, or that I'm disregarding your suggestions, I really have tried all those things. I've done so much reading about calibration and slicer settings, I feel like I've tried everything, but that's probably not true. I guess what I'm saying is that that quote that comes around the thread fairly often "Decide whether you want your hobby to be 3d printing, or tinkering with 3d printers" is pretty true, and that I want my hobby to be 3d printing.
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Oct 8, 2021 16:04
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Just gonna throw this out there for those of you who are tearing your hair out in frustration: There may be a 3D printer expert in your area that you can pay to get your 3D printer squared away. I had no end of trouble with my Ender 3 Pro and after like six months of tinkering with it I paid a guy like $60 to fix it for me, and it's run like a dream ever since. Look for companies that sell 3D printers or printer materials in your area. They'll likely either be able to help you out or hook you up with someone who can service the machine.
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Oct 8, 2021 16:25
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FDA warns against using Art Naturals Hand Sanitizers Relevant because I use their IPA for cleaning my resin prints, and they just had a huge sale like a month ago that people might have taken advantage of. It's not like I'm dipping my bare hands in the stuff, but it does get splashed around a bit.
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Oct 8, 2021 17:25
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A double carcinogen whammy
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Oct 8, 2021 18:32
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Ghostnuke posted:You definitely have a point, and I've gotten some semi-decent prints out of it. But it always takes 3-4 tries and then when I go to print something else it's poo poo again and I have to tinker until I either give up or it works finally. Nerobro posted:Everything here, speaks of "I'm fighting this on my own, and i'm searching google/facebook for advice". Ghostnuke posted:1) Have done this, even within the last few days. I followed these 2 videos to do the assembly - Edit: JFC, 80 minutes of "how to assemble an ender". I had mine, built, including two mistakes, in 30 minutes. quote:3) Have done this, approximately 1 trillion times. quote:4) I can take a pic when I get home, but I had a model going for a day or two. Seemed to be going ok-ish, but I came home yesterday and it had layer shifted everything and kept printing, ruining the print. Another common failure is supports not getting printed properly. They just turn into a tangled mess. quote:I don't want to sound flippant, or that I'm disregarding your suggestions, I really have tried all those things. I've done so much reading about calibration and slicer settings, I feel like I've tried everything, but that's probably not true. I guess what I'm saying is that that quote that comes around the thread fairly often "Decide whether you want your hobby to be 3d printing, or tinkering with 3d printers" is pretty true, and that I want my hobby to be 3d printing. You should print a benchy. :-) Once you're printing, that is. Edit: Who's worth paying attention to on youtube about 3d printing: Thomas Sandalar, CNC Kitchen, Makers Muse, 3d Printing Nerd, Nero3dp, CHEP.... Those are the best off the top of my head. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Oct 8, 2021 |
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Oct 8, 2021 18:40
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Any machine where you have to re-level/re-tram the bed for any reason other than "I bumped the machine hard enough to make it shift on whatever platform it sits on" or "I modified the setup in some way (as in, actually changed the components of whatever axis the bed moves on or you changed the hotend)" is a bad design. The Monoprice Maker Select V2 that I still print on from time to time has never had to have it's bed levelled since the last time I hosed with the hardware setup on it back in 2019 (when I added a build plate layer to it and had to lower said build plate to get it back in place below where the Z endstop triggers at the proper height--the Maker Select V2 doesn't have bed probing). That machine is about due for some cleanup and re-lubrication maintenance so I will re-tram the bed after doing that, but if the axis is that flimsy that removing a print or whatever you're doing between prints knocks the bed out of tram, you need to either strengthen that design or RMA the machine or something. Nerobro posted:Edit: Who's worth paying attention to on youtube about 3d printing: Thomas Sandalar, CNC Kitchen, Makers Muse, Nero3dp, CHEP.... Those are the best off the top of my head. I would ditch 3d Printing Nerd altogether. He actually reviewed and endorsed Robo3D printers as late as their R2/C2 machines (last I looked) and had the gall to say they were good machines even after all the horse poo poo he had in his videos about the broken parts and constant back and forth with the company to even get a working demo model to review. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Oct 8, 2021 |
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Oct 8, 2021 18:48
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In all honestly, it sounds like you’re slicer settings are hosed up. If your supports are turning to poo poo, you have your support print speed set too high. If you’re getting later shifts, you’re movement speed might be set too high and you also might benefit from enabling z-hop. If your first layer isn’t sticking, use glue stick OR blue tape on the smooth side of the glass bed if you’re not willing to buy a Pei coated spring steel bed from TH3d. It 100% sounds like lack of knowledge in regards to 3D printing / issue diagnosis. Buying a $400/$1000/$2000 printer won’t solve that issue and you’ll be having these same frustrations. Also, print a benchy and take photos of your results.
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Oct 8, 2021 19:16
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Ghostnuke posted:You definitely have a point, and I've gotten some semi-decent prints out of it. But it always takes 3-4 tries and then when I go to print something else it's poo poo again and I have to tinker until I either give up or it works finally. Is your extruder setting set to volumetric? If so turn it off. I had all sorts of odd issues and inability to calibrate the extruder because of that. Oh that reminds me. Calibrate your extruder.
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Oct 8, 2021 19:18
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I would ditch 3d Printing Nerd altogether. He actually reviewed and endorsed Robo3D printers as late as their R2/C2 machines (last I looked) and had the gall to say they were good machines even after all the horse poo poo he had in his videos about the broken parts and constant back and forth with the company to even get a working demo model to review. Perhaps. But he's also one of the few youtubers who goes and checks out the wild edges. His latest videos from the manufacturing expo show off things that you just.. won't see anywhere else. He's still not of the level of teaching tech. *shivers* That dude has cost me 20 hours that I can specifically track.
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Oct 8, 2021 19:42
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So I’ve gotten a bit spooked by all the documentation saying to never leave your printer running unattended. Has anyone tried using those automatic fire suppression balls as a layer of protection near their printer? My printer is currently sitting in my very flammable and very wooden guest room.
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Oct 8, 2021 20:41
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biracial bear for uncut posted:This may be a good quick guide for you. Excellent! That seems pretty straightforward. Was wondering if I'd end up having to make a mold for everything first or not.
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Oct 8, 2021 20:44
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Mr Newsman posted:Excellent! That seems pretty straightforward. Was wondering if I'd end up having to make a mold for everything first or not. Like all projects, how good or bad things go all falls down to how you plan it ahead of time.
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Oct 8, 2021 20:46
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Talorat posted:So I’ve gotten a bit spooked by all the documentation saying to never leave your printer running unattended. Has anyone tried using those automatic fire suppression balls as a layer of protection near their printer? My printer is currently sitting in my very flammable and very wooden guest room. I'm not a fire expert but I feel like you might have fire from a melted-down printer spreading to the rest of the space before the ambient temp or spread of flames reaches a point where the ball goes off.
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Oct 8, 2021 20:47
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