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First metric century today! A little bit rainy, but mid 60s was a great temp. A buddy did the ride with me hungover so we took a chill pace, especially in the headwinds, and it made for a fun ride. We went out a took a loop around a local lake before going further out to the next town and then back home. People looking at you like you're crazy showing up at a gas station in the middle of nowhere on a bike is always fun. They had loving bomb homemade apple fritters. A+, would bike again.
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Oct 10, 2021 02:15
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 20:40 |
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CheddarGoblin posted:I finally got a HRM and have worn it on my last two rides and I'm a little concerned about my heart rate - 166 avg, 186 max. This seems really high, right?? Am I going to kill myself? Resting rate is 51bpm, and I'm 41 years old. Unless you have have reason to suspect it's outside of normal, those numbers in isolation are not alarming. I know 50 year olds who hit high 190s. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Oct 10, 2021 |
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Oct 10, 2021 02:15
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i’m 36 and can hit 200, you’re fine
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Oct 10, 2021 04:06
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CheddarGoblin posted:I finally got a HRM and have worn it on my last two rides and I'm a little concerned about my heart rate - 166 avg, 186 max. This seems really high, right?? Am I going to kill myself? Resting rate is 51bpm, and I'm 41 years old. Totes normal, those are my kind of numbers when I'm feeling good and getting after it a bit harder than normal but not killing myself by any means. In my mid 30s but still.
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Oct 10, 2021 05:20
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Thanks for the reassurances, it was just kind of startling when comparing my numbers with random riders on Strava who have a much lower HR despite being faster than me. But eventually I starting finding ones closer to my own. Seems it's just a highly variable thing and the 220-age rule is not super relevant.
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Oct 10, 2021 05:51
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CheddarGoblin posted:Thanks for the reassurances, it was just kind of startling when comparing my numbers with random riders on Strava who have a much lower HR despite being faster than me. But eventually I starting finding ones closer to my own. Seems it's just a highly variable thing and the 220-age rule is not super relevant. Yep. 220-age is wrong for more people than it's right for. I'm 41 and have hit 207 this year.
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Oct 10, 2021 06:03
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CheddarGoblin posted:Thanks for the reassurances, it was just kind of startling when comparing my numbers with random riders on Strava who have a much lower HR despite being faster than me. But eventually I starting finding ones closer to my own. Seems it's just a highly variable thing and the 220-age rule is not super relevant. There are two ways to get faster: 1) Efficiency based gains (aero, rolling resistance, reducing drivetrain friction, etc) 2) Increased fitness Just keep riding your bike and your avg speed at a given HR will increase. And yes, 220 minus your age is ballpark, but it’s like the Polo Grounds of ballpark.
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Oct 10, 2021 07:13
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That's a good point. My bike is heavyish with 38mm tires and an 8-speed Alfine hub that I effectively spin out at ~23mph with so I leave a lot on the table in terms of speed when I'm going downhill or downwind at all. This all despite being in probably the best shape of my life thanks to covid biking.
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Oct 10, 2021 07:23
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I managed 3 kph faster average speed on today's ride Metrics feel good man
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Oct 10, 2021 07:52
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CheddarGoblin posted:Thanks for the reassurances, it was just kind of startling when comparing my numbers with random riders on Strava who have a much lower HR despite being faster than me.
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Oct 10, 2021 09:49
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My average speed on a 50mi ride has gone down a good 0.5mph or more this year. I think it's probably because of the 20lbs I put on during the pandemic (less trips to the store + being sick of cooking means more frozen pizzas or nuggets for dinner, lol). I'm still on pace to do just as many miles as last year (3500), but with the extra weight it's just taking longer each ride. I need to start counting calories again.
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Oct 10, 2021 16:02
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This is a longshot, but does anyone in here have a Retrospec Lenox hitch bicycle carrier that hey no longer use? I am looking to replace the shank part
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Oct 10, 2021 23:12
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CheddarGoblin posted:I finally got a HRM and have worn it on my last two rides and I'm a little concerned about my heart rate - 166 avg, 186 max. This seems really high, right?? Am I going to kill myself? Resting rate is 51bpm, and I'm 41 years old. I average around there and max out higher, you should be fine. Some of us just run high.
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Oct 10, 2021 23:13
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I'm trying to find a new set of tires for the wheels on my bike. They came with pretty narrow (25mm) and slick (CONTINENTAL Ultra Sport II) tires that I want to replace with something that can at least sort of handle crushed limestone. The specific wheels are DT Swiss P1800 Spline 23's. I'll probably end up using them 80% on pavement and 20% on crushed limestone, and it looks like the maximum clearance I have between my narrow forks is just under 32mm. Would 28mm gravel kings make sense or is there something closer to 30mm nominal? Appreciate any help, I realize I'm sort of trying to make my road bike into something it isn't, but I really really like it and feel like an actual gravel bike would be overkill.
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Oct 11, 2021 02:49
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My HR will be in the 160s for 17mph at like 70-80 RPM and 170-180 for 20ish mph at the same cadence (I can't do that for very long though without a some friends with me).
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Oct 11, 2021 02:54
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There's honestly too many variables involved to compare your own HR against your speed. If it's hot, my HR goes up fort any given effort. If there's wind, my speed will change at any given HR. If I've ridden a lot of endurance over the past couple days, then my HR will generally stay lower due to my heart being fatigued, Only thing you can do is look at long term trends for HR vs power (real power measured with a power meter, not a Strava estimate) vs interval where you can strip out other variables.
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Oct 11, 2021 05:27
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Bishop Beo posted:I'm trying to find a new set of tires for the wheels on my bike. They came with pretty narrow (25mm) and slick (CONTINENTAL Ultra Sport II) tires that I want to replace with something that can at least sort of handle crushed limestone. The specific wheels are DT Swiss P1800 Spline 23's. I'll probably end up using them 80% on pavement and 20% on crushed limestone, and it looks like the maximum clearance I have between my narrow forks is just under 32mm. Would 28mm gravel kings make sense or is there something closer to 30mm nominal? There's a decent number of slicks at 30c, but I dunno how many measure to 30mm: https://www.modernbike.com/700c-tires+tire-widthis30 Plenty of 32c tires measure to 30mm or thereabouts. How much protection do you need?
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Oct 11, 2021 07:10
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Bishop Beo posted:I'm trying to find a new set of tires for the wheels on my bike. They came with pretty narrow (25mm) and slick (CONTINENTAL Ultra Sport II) tires that I want to replace with something that can at least sort of handle crushed limestone. The specific wheels are DT Swiss P1800 Spline 23's. I'll probably end up using them 80% on pavement and 20% on crushed limestone, and it looks like the maximum clearance I have between my narrow forks is just under 32mm. Would 28mm gravel kings make sense or is there something closer to 30mm nominal? you 100% want marathon plus, I have 25s on my road bike and use them on gravel and pavement, but you can go up to 28-30mm. What the decider would be is price and availability
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Oct 11, 2021 07:24
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You don't need gravel tyres for a crushed limestone surface. Just use any regular road 28/30mm slicks and you'll be fine. Doubly so if you go with tubeless.
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Oct 11, 2021 09:49
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Vando posted:You don't need gravel tyres for a crushed limestone surface. Just use any regular road 28/30mm slicks and you'll be fine. Doubly so if you go with tubeless.
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Oct 11, 2021 10:36
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evil_bunnY posted:Spoken as someone who hasn't pulled shards out of their expensive sticky tires after a gravel section. If there's shards that would penetrate a road tyre they'll penetrate most gravel tyres as well unless you go for some giant armoured monstrosity, which doesn't seem appropriate for only 20% of the time.
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Oct 11, 2021 10:59
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They are on pavement and gravel though? Slick Road tyres ain’t going to be hugely fun on that in winter.
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Oct 11, 2021 11:12
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If it's well maintained (ie. actual limestone throughout and not a dirt base coming through everywhere) there won't be any muddy sections or anything. Even if wet a limestone surface will be absolutely fine on a wide slick.
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Oct 11, 2021 11:26
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Well I was cruising gumtree and came across this beauty for $25 Hello new beater bike Needs a new chain, but it's cleaned up well 
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Oct 11, 2021 11:49
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TobinHatesYou posted:There's honestly too many variables involved to compare your own HR against your speed. If it's hot, my HR goes up fort any given effort. If there's wind, my speed will change at any given HR. If I've ridden a lot of endurance over the past couple days, then my HR will generally stay lower due to my heart being fatigued, Its one of the reasons why riding to heart rate is a very vague way of measuring improvement in fitness. I've had rides where I've been in the 160's when the week before I was around 150 for the same 'effort' and that was entirely down to not looking after myself very well that week and maybe having a bit of a cold. Its better than average speed, but still needs to be looked at in the broader sense as you said.
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Oct 11, 2021 12:45
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Bishop Beo posted:I'm trying to find a new set of tires for the wheels on my bike. They came with pretty narrow (25mm) and slick (CONTINENTAL Ultra Sport II) tires that I want to replace with something that can at least sort of handle crushed limestone. The specific wheels are DT Swiss P1800 Spline 23's. I'll probably end up using them 80% on pavement and 20% on crushed limestone, and it looks like the maximum clearance I have between my narrow forks is just under 32mm. Would 28mm gravel kings make sense or is there something closer to 30mm nominal? 28mm gravel kings or 33mm shikoros shikoros run notoriously small and 33 should be drat close to 30-31ish, but they’re a great all around tire
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Oct 11, 2021 13:12
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Bicycle Megathread 5: Aging Millennials Comparing Max Heartrates
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Oct 11, 2021 13:13
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kimbo305 posted:There's a decent number of slicks at 30c, but I dunno how many measure to 30mm: learnincurve posted:you 100% want marathon plus, I have 25s on my road bike and use them on gravel and pavement, but you can go up to 28-30mm. What the decider would be is price and availability learnincurve posted:They are on pavement and gravel though? Slick Road tyres ain’t going to be hugely fun on that in winter. One other thing, I'm currently running tubes but my wheels are apparently tubeless compatible. My spouse has tubeless on their Contend and the only difference I've seen so far is that tubes don't need goop every 4-6 months and retain air much better week over week. That's all on paved, so if tubeless really shines on rougher surfaces then I am totally happy to switch over to tubeless. Really appreciate the help y'all! EDIT: e.pilot posted:28mm gravel kings or 33mm shikoros Those shikoros look pretty great actually, thanks! Bishop Beo fucked around with this message at 13:22 on Oct 11, 2021 |
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Oct 11, 2021 13:20
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Bishop Beo posted:One other thing, I'm currently running tubes but my wheels are apparently tubeless compatible. My spouse has tubeless on their Contend and the only difference I've seen so far is that tubes don't need goop every 4-6 months and retain air much better week over week. That's all on paved, so if tubeless really shines on rougher surfaces then I am totally happy to switch over to tubeless. Really appreciate the help y'all! Tubeless lets you run much lower pressure for much better comfort on rough stuff, and it additionally solves most briar/thorn/flint-related punctures. If neither of these are a problem then tubes are cool too. meltie fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Oct 11, 2021 |
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Oct 11, 2021 18:15
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e.pilot posted:Bicycle Megathread 5: Aging Millennials Comparing Max Heartrates What about Gen Xers and resting HRs? 
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Oct 11, 2021 22:54
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e.pilot posted:Bicycle Megathread 5: Aging Millennials Comparing Max Heartrates Rude - but true. Haven't seen much trip report posting from you recently - have you been able to get out for rides on the Bike Friday while working?
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Oct 11, 2021 22:56
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Sab0921 posted:Rude - but true. Nothing super interesting, fighting burnout/sadbrains and doing some TTs and cross races.      
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Oct 11, 2021 23:41
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Holy poo poo that is a good looking minivelo.
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Oct 12, 2021 00:04
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dick wood goes hard
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Oct 12, 2021 04:33
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meltie posted:Tubeless lets you run much lower pressure for much better comfort on rough stuff, and it additionally solves most briar/thorn/flint-related punctures. If neither of these are a problem then tubes are cool too. For road, I don’t get enough punctures with tubes (0.5 per year on average) to bother changing anything, but people in my club have had nightmares with tubeless, admittedly as they don’t know the ropes / have the right equipment. - Some people (for road) need or want pressures that are higher than tubeless sealant works well with e.g. just for rider weight reasons. The recommended pressures on the Silca tyre pressure calculator page work fine with tubes anyway. - Seemingly only a few kinds of sealant actually work well at road pressures. Stans does not. Whatever Giant shops put in their wheels does not. - To seal anything the sealant doesn’t fix magically, you need plugs. Again, most types don’t hold at road tyre pressures. You need dynaplugs. - I’ve seen people offer to help an inexperienced rider change a flat, then withdraw their offer when they discover it’s a tubeless setup and they will get covered in goo.
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Oct 12, 2021 11:21
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counterpoint: orange seal in road tubeless slaps and mounting is easy with a compressor
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Oct 12, 2021 11:53
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What insane pressures are they using?? Max 4 bar/60 psi with Stan's works great for me with a 32mm tyre, and my TCR came with 7 bar/25mm tubeless setup and sealing and such works fine? Those are the recommended maximum pressures from the tire manufacturer by the way. There's no reason to go higher anyway, rolling resistance will only increase because of the reduced compliance over bumpy surfaces. On bad roads 2-3 bar is excellent.
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Oct 12, 2021 11:59
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wooger posted:For road meltie posted:on rough stuff
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Oct 12, 2021 13:33
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Anyone know where I can find a 27.2 version of this? Finally reincarnating a retro-mod build that's been sitting in my attic for two years.
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Oct 12, 2021 13:43
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 20:40 |
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My canyon commuter has a lot of front disc rub problems I'm trying to solve. It has hydraulic brakes but a QR axle ( ), and for some reason (this is probably the core issue) the hub seems to shift over time, moving more to the left. The tightness of the QR seems to be a big factor, so perhaps it's loosening and allowing the wheel to shift a bit in the dropout. I could reposition the caliper, but then I would just be allowing the wheel to sit off centre. Otherwise I can just keep resetting the wheel, but I have to do this every week or two at the moment which seems stupid. I'm also worried that any movement in the dropouts is going to cause them to wear away and make this problem even worse. Any ideas on the best course of action are much appreciated This just seems like the standard QR+disc brake nightmare though, I probably wouldn't have gone for this bike if I knew it had QR for the fork Heliosicle fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Oct 12, 2021 |
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Oct 12, 2021 14:03
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